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Just curious if the building plan or construction can be altered a bit to accommodate future expansion?  For example, depending on orientation,  an end wall could be made to be easily disassembled and then moved over another 24’ or so.  The end result will be something that doesn’t necessarily look added on.  Just a thought because you know how things can get out of control!

 

Can you show show us a sketch of your planned layout including roofline?  We’ll give you a good critique!

 

congratulations and do keep us posted!

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4 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

 Just a thought because you know how things can get out of control!

No that never happens.  I'm at 60 by 72 and could use a little more. ;)  As long as someone else pays for it and does the work. 

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Its nothing that great.  Its a metal building.  24ft is the gable end. 3/12 roof pitch.  Two 9x8 roll-up doors.  I imagine you could add on in the length direction fairly easy, but the width would require new trusses. 

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Do you normally get much snow where you are?  You could always add another bay in the future across the back with a side door if you don't normally have the sliding snow to worry about.  A gutter would keep the water from splashing against the garage door and possibly coming in the garage.  Snow is a whole different game.  That's why I went shingles and no breaks in the concrete on the sides,  only the gable ends where you won't have the snow and drip issue. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)

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On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 9:36 AM, wndsofchng06 said:

My old pole barn will become parts storage and living quarters for buttercup.

 

She will think she never left Georgia! :lol:

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Concrete company called today.  Due to 4 weeks of precipitation they are behind schedule.  Which is fine since my yard is currently a swamp. 😒

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I did a ton of site work with alot of time spent grading so I was lucky to have a pretty dry site even though we got rain and even snow.  It took even more work than necessary when the concrete company poured the foundation too low.  I had to go down an extra foot in the front.  I won't tell you how many rocks I found in that 1 foot.  I lost track of how many triaxle dump trucks worth of stone i got as well. 

Hopefully things dry up for you so they can get in there.  I'll end up having over 30 grand in concrete once I finally get my floor poured. 

Amazing how fast it all adds up.  I think I had another 5G in stone. 

Keep us posted. 

Do you have any sketches of it yet? 

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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:

I did a ton of site work with alot of time spent grading so I was lucky to have a pretty dry site even though we got rain and even snow.  It took even more work than necessary when the concrete company poured the foundation too low.  I had to go down an extra foot in the front.  I won't tell you how many rocks I found in that 1 foot.  I lost track of how many triaxle dump trucks worth of stone i got as well. 

Hopefully things dry up for you so they can get in there.  I'll end up having over 30 grand in concrete once I finally get my floor poured. 

Amazing how fast it all adds up.  I think I had another 5G in stone. 

Keep us posted. 

Do you have any sketches of it yet? 

😳 I don't think all my vehicles added together would be 35 Grand worth.  There won't be any sketches because this is just an order-online, no frills, metal garage

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Posted (edited)

The first garage that was kind of mine was a 2 stall maybe 18 by 20 wood floor kit garage from Sears (circa 1930's)  The neighbor gave it to my Dad and I if we would move it.  We jacked it up off it's concrete foundation (it was built in a bank so it actually had a full cellar underneath it.  then dragged it down the road with a huge front end loader on the skids one Sunday morning after the cops went by.   Dad dragged it down the property to the end of a long drive with a friend's Dozer where we jacked it back up and put it a few feet off the ground on cement blocks.  It's still there and one of my cars are still in it.   I insulated and sheetrocked it so it could be heated and have been heating it for over 20 years now.  

The next was a 24 by 24 that came with the house I bought Another normal no frills garage.  2x4 framing a couple windows a concrete floor and 2 super cheap see through garage doors. No insulation, 2 electrical outlets but it was mine so I was happy.

Then there was the next a 24 by 28 foot garage that came with the house in town my wife bought before we were married.  I finished that one all off insulated Sheetrocked and nice wood trim(recycled from scraps),  Had a stairway down the center though enclosed to get to an apartment we never rehabbed (that sucked). took up alot of space.  I had a 57 Tbird, 32 Ford highboy and a crew cab dually long bed pickup in there for a few years.  No room to do anything but it looked nice when you went in there.  Barely squeezed the Dually through the 8 foot door.  

The bigger garages didn't come until later.  We all work our way up.  

It's interesting to see them all and share ideas on things (even small things) to make them user friendly.  

I have a 28 by 50 on the property already that I completely rehabbed.  I installed the rapid air system in that one as I was sick of tripping over air hoses.  Still haven't quite got it done,  but i want to get the big one sided so I can get my CO as they are banging me a 375.00 a year permit fee.  

This will probably be my last unless we move some place warmer.  

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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On 1/3/2019 at 7:32 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

...There won't be any sketches because this is just an order-online, no frills, metal garage.

 

Matthew, this is important:  If you are in an area that

gets some snow, be very aware that the "International"

series of codes, used in many states, is dangerously

unconservative on snow load.

 

Most metal building companies like to present low prices,

so the loads for which they are designed--unless you know

enough to specify otherwise--are at the bare minimum.

For the code's snow loads, this is unsafe.  Some years ago,

we had numerous building collapses when the roof snow load

was high, because the metal buildings weren't designed for

the load that good practice dictated!   P.M. me if you

want to discuss this further.

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30 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

 

Matthew, this is important:  If you are in an area that

gets some snow, be very aware that the "International"

series of codes, used in many states, is dangerously

unconservative on snow load.

 

Most metal building companies like to present low prices,

so the loads for which they are designed--unless you know

enough to specify otherwise--are at the bare minimum.

For the code's snow loads, this is unsafe.  Some years ago,

we had numerous building collapses when the roof snow load

was high, because the metal buildings weren't designed for

the load that good practice dictated!   P.M. me if you

want to discuss this further.

We don't get a lot of snow here. Plus it's too late now anyhow.  Paid for, if I backed out I lose a significant amount of money.

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Matt, I think you're right.  I looked at loads on-line, and

snow load shouldn't govern the design for a building

in Durham, North Carolina.

 

However, my warning is vital for someone in a snowier

area.

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Hopefully they atleast designed it for the snow load you got figuring in the rain as well if you get that amount then it turns to rain.  With metal and enough pitch it will slide for the first few years but over time tends to hang on longer as the paint ages and becomes less slippery.  There is always the though that since it's a 2 stall,  you could buy a few 4 x4's and install them if you know a bad snow is coming to help support the ridge. 

I went overkill just so I wouldn't have to worry. 

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Broke ground today.... The soil below thw surface is like Jello...it literally jiggles. Gotta wait a few weeks, months, years till it dries (we had over 100 inches of rain in 2018!). Ugh.  So inn my bordom I got these:20190117_190426.thumb.jpg.22790541db62c4eee46cb33da06ab2d6.jpg

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10 truck loads of gravel (big ones ) and you should be good to go.  I ended up putting down almost $5000. in gravel so I would have a good driveway approach, drainage and for now a gravel floor inside (to get away with a quicker and cheaper CO)  Eventually I'll sell one of the kids and have enough money to pay for a floor. ;) 

It's suppose to be Highs of 5. with lows of -15 this weekend with 2 feet of snow.  so everything is froze solid as a rock.  We won't be able to dig in the ground until some time the end of May probably.  

My heater went out for my other garage and I bought a rebuilt one to replace it,  so I can take the original apart and rebuild it myself so I know how they work as few guys around here repair that type.  Sucks to have no heat with overnight lows so far of 0 and day time highs barely hitting 20.  The new garage got up to 15 today.  I build a fire outside with the scraps in a burn pit so I have a place to warm my hands when they freeze up and stop working.  

Hopefully it dries out for you sooner rather than later.   Is there any way to ditch to get the area to drain some?  I know just getting the new rain water away as quick as possible will help it from penetrating that area thus letting it dry out.  

We have sand and a ton of rocks so drainage is actually pretty good here with really no clay. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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On 1/17/2019 at 11:02 PM, auburnseeker said:

10 truck loads of gravel (big ones ) and you should be good to go.

 

I know the feeling -- I forget how may loads of bank-run gravel and stone I brought in to prepare the site of my pole barn.  Fortunately, the guy who I had doing the site work didn't let me cheap-out and settle for less.  I thank him every time we get an inch or more of rain or a foot of snow.  My barn floor is high and dry.  Water issues after-the-fact are ugly and expensive to fix...

 

Edited by EmTee
typo (see edit history)
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It was alot of work but they ended up pouring my foundation lower than I wanted so I had to dig down the front pad area a foot.  I have nothing but rock and nard pan so it rough digging.  I even hit one rock too big for my machine and called in a friend that I had dig a bigger hole and bury it with his machine. 

I shot it with a laser I bought on clearance (boy that was a smart move) and got it graded  with a few inches of slope away from the building and it drains great No matter how much it rains it dries up fast and no water ever gets in the building winter or summer.  That's without the floor,  so with the floor which will be another 7 inches higher finished I should never have a problem.  It was one of the reasons I designed mine with all openings on the gable ends so the drip from the eaves and ice build up won't affect them.    I also opted for 2 foot overhangs to keep the water away.    All things to consider when building.  

I started my thread as nothing more than food for thought with anyone looking to build. 

How flat is the area you are looking to build in?  post a photo of the site.  

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With the78 degree weather we are having here things should start to progress. Looks good.

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Glad to see someone making progress.  I have been battling winter here.  If we aren't plowing snow,  we are chisseling the ice that comes after each storm. Rain is never good the day after it's -10.  Then in my free time,  I work on the rebuilt heater I just bought in the other garage that keeps going out.   I was able to get a few minutes to replace the new block heater I put in my tractor last year and never got to use,  with another new one (different brand) as the other new one had issues causing antifreeze to run out the plug.  WTF.  

Boy I sure hope global warming really kicks into high gear as I cant take much more fun.  

Keep us posted.  It's nice to see someone actually get something done. 

 

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Are you going with a row of blocks around the bottom?  I know when you put the building frame right on the slab you can sometimes have water leach in through the walls,  that doesn't happen as much with a row of blocks around the bottom all cemented in. You will want to at a minimum invest in some grave for the eaves to drip in to help drain the water away especially in non sandy soil.  What kind of overhang did they spec it for?  

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7 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

Are you going with a row of blocks around the bottom?  I know when you put the building frame right on the slab you can sometimes have water leach in through the walls,  that doesn't happen as much with a row of blocks around the bottom all cemented in. You will want to at a minimum invest in some grave for the eaves to drip in to help drain the water away especially in non sandy soil.  What kind of overhang did they spec it for?  

No blocks.  No specs. Just a cheap internet building. If they didn't already have my deposit, I woulda cancelled it all as our government is walloping me with the tax bills, not done paying last year yet (Stay tuned as something will have to be for sale soon).  When I recover I may put gravel tracks under the eaves along with a gravel driveway to the building.

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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1 minute ago, Kosage Chavis said:

What's the perimeter on the slabs Matt?

It's 24x27.

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