New garage/Shop

[auburnseeker]

Ok I have been working on a plan to build a new big garage/ shop at my new house.

I think I want it about 60 by 72 feet with a 16 foot ceiling.  

4 on 12 pitch with 2 foot overhangs atleast.

One large garage door 12 by 14 or so  on the western facing gable end.  

I staked out the best area on my 7 acres to put it.  I'm on a hill so fortunately the best flattest spot is where I probably would have put it anyways in relation to the house and my other garage.

I'm thinking a shingled roof as the problems of a nearly 40 foot roof sliding and the snow build up against the building associated with it.  

I purchased an excavator to do the excavating for the building and the drive that will have to be put in from my existing drive.  (I already started on that) 

According to the local planning board the location will be OK for it.

Siding I think will be a  cement board of some sort.

I cut down all the brush in the area I roped off and have just some large trees left to clear that I was leaving until I decided for certain that everything is going to come to fruition.  

I sold off a few cars to help fund the project but the excavator ate quite a bit of that money up. 

Eventually it will be heated so I want it very well insulated.  It will also eventually have infloor heat but that may come the following year putting off pouring the floor for a year. It will have footings and a frost wall. 

I do plan on putting an open loft style second floor on the sides inside to maximize space as I need room for parts storage for my business.

I have  been kind of slow at getting the project going to the next level as I mentioned funds were a little on the light side.

I do have another shop that I currently own across town which has been for sale but had little interest.  

Today I had someone make me a cash offer on it.

Pending the outcome of this offer and if it holds up I may need to escalate this project a bit.  

What I'm looking for is any suggestions or experiences anyone has had putting up a building like this.  I was originally thinking of going with a Morton building as they have a good R value.  I am looking into steel as well.  Atleast for the framework. 

I do plan on doing the inside in steel sheeting.  (I'm not taping 72 feet of sheetrock)

I do have strong building contracting carpentry skills and equipment so I'm probably just looking to hire the footings and frost wall,  shell put up and the roof put on then go from their. 

That being said what can you all share? 

I will post some photos of the site and what not in the next day or so. 

 

 

[nick8086]

I call on one ---  all steel building.. 120K... 40 X 50.. 

[auburnseeker]

I have a friend that I buy from at some somewhat local car shows and his son,  last year put up a 60 by 100 building heated for his trucking business for under 100,000.   ( I need to get over to look at it) He did some of the work himself but a company put it up.  I'm hoping to come in under the 100 mark doing the excavating, much of the electrical and most all of the finishing myself. 

I do want the outside to look good as the house and the garage are all cedar sided with a sikkens finish stain on them.  It will be far enough away if I go with a like colored cement board,  I think it will match appropriately.  I really don't want to have to stain that 16 by 72 foot wall every couple of years if I was to go with cedar and I can imagine the cost will be substantially more than the cement siding.  

[Dennis]

Hardie Board would fit your need in to not needing to stain it every couple of years. IT comes in sheets that resemble "T"-111 even when up close. The Hardie Board built like beveled cedar siding will fool someone who does not know what it really is. We put Hardie Board on the Elks Lodge that we built, like your building steel frame with a sheet metal roof. Another thing Hardie Board is fire resistant even though it has wood fibers mixed in the cement. Our building is 60 by 80 and insulated in the roof and walls. I recommend Hardie Board for your

building and I don't think anyone will know the difference when they look at it either before it is painted or after.

[John_S_in_Penna]

I was originally thinking of going with a Morton building as they have a good R value.

I am looking into steel as well.  Atleast for the framework. 

 

As you know, Morton is a reputable manufacturer of pole buildings,

which are wood-framed.  I would strongly recommend that any 

wood columns DO NOT go into the ground, because even pressure-treated

wood will eventually rot.  I understood that they would have only a 40-year

life in the ground, but one Amish framer I know said it could be as little as 20 years.

(Good buildings should last 200 years or more--just ask the Europeans.)

 

I believe that Morton has a configuration where the wood columns are above ground,

supported on concrete piers.  If you go with a pole building, use that detail.

[John_S_in_Penna]

And here's a vitally important item:

DESIGN FOR SUFFICIENT SNOW LOAD!

 

I know that, in our area, the International Building Code

is dangerously deficient in its prescribed snow load.

"Ground snow load,"  30 lb/sq.ft. in our region, can be reduced by

several coefficients to give a required "roof snow load"

of 21 lb/sq.ft. or less--not wise and not safe!  We had a number of

catastrophic roof collapses in the 1990's,  The Int'l Building Code is

used in many states, and those same formulas may be referenced

by other building codes too. 

 

For our area, to remedy that situation, wise engineers design

for a "roof snow load" of 30 lb/sq.ft. and a "roof live load" of

30 lb/sq.ft.  (Those loads are never applied simultaneously.)

 

And make sure the DEAD LOAD specified is high enough.

Metal building manufacturers (and perhaps pole building manufacturers)

want to come across as very affordable, so unless you specify otherwise,

they will design for a very small dead load--smaller than other 

building types use.

Edited March 1, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Dandy Dave]

My Dad just had a Hay Barn built. A family of Amish contractors put the building up in a day. Pole Building, Wooden sides and back open on one side. No concrete on the floor. He had to hire an excavation contractor as he is 700 miles from me otherwise I would have done it. The building is around 40 X 40. Total cost was $23,000. Dandy Dave! 

[R Walling]

 When I put up my building I originally asked for a quote for a 60 X 80' building.

 

 My contractor said that I could get a 70 X 100' for about the same cost.

 

 After I got into the building when it was slow, I gradually added 5/8 sheet rock

to the walls with extra insulation, 25' at a time. Eventually I had all the walls covered.

 I started to use steel panels on the walls but I didn't like the looks of it and dirt collected

along the corrugations on the floor making it hard to sweep.

 

 I like to use fire code sheet rock as even though I have insurance, I don't  want the 

inconvenience of a fire. It doesn't cost that much more and it resists damage much better.

[John_S_in_Penna]

 When I put up my building I originally asked for a quote for a 60 X 80' building.

 

 My contractor said that I could get a 70 X 100' for about the same cost.

 

Roger, since every square foot of a building costs money,

how could a contractor give a 7000 square foot building for

the price of a 4800 square foot building?  That's a 45% increase

in size!  It's likely that the two buiidings quoted weren't of the same

construction type or quality.

 

Following that contractor's logic, one could say,

"I can give you a 10,000 square foot building for the price

of that 7000 square foot building."  You should have taken

him to the next step and gotten 10,000 square feet! 

 

I like the other points you made.  They are helpful suggestions from experience.

[auburnseeker]

As you know, Morton is a reputable manufacturer of pole buildings,

which are wood-framed.  I would strongly recommend that any 

wood columns DO NOT go into the ground, because even pressure-treated

wood will eventually rot.  I understood that they would have only a 40-year

life in the ground, but one Amish framer I know said it could be as little as 20 years.

(Good buildings should last 200 years or more--just ask the Europeans.)

 

I believe that Morton has a configuration where the wood columns are above ground,

supported on concrete piers.  If you go with a pole building, use that detail.

That is why I figured going with a frost wall and bringing it up atleast a foot above grade so no lumber would be in the ground. I liked the idea of steel over wood for the rot factor and there are more options with steel as far as spans.  

I found a company that made a very nice wood building but they couldn't do it as wide as I wanted with our snow loads. 

I am flexible on the length a bit although grade starts to change a bit more at the far end. I went with the 72 because the one company originally built a kit that size but 75 or even up to 80 I don't  think will be a problem.  I won't compromise on width though.  

I was leaning toward the metal exterior because of fire resistance, the fact that it's up and done, can be fixed fairly easily by removing a panel if necessary, and it's washable if need be.

[auburnseeker]

I can see a few feet being cheaper than say my 72 foot size as some standard kits come in cheaper at certain sizes than a truly custom one.  You still do have the extra concrete wiring roofing material etc that will drive the cost up. 

[auburnseeker]

I was originally thinking Hardie Board on the siding but a friend told me they were having problems with warrantying their product and standing behind it.  I haven't researched it yet to see if there is any truth to it. 

[Joe in Canada]

I have a 30 X40 pole barn I use for storage but the poles went rotten after 25 years and had to change them. It was a major job that would have been faster to put up a new building. Had to take the walls down then realised the hole building was ready to come down as the walls were what was keeping it up. Put new poles in with concrete 6 in. above the ground level.

Edited March 1, 2016 by Joe in Canada (see edit history)

[Guest AlCapone]

Looks like you should step back and have another look. Seems like there are many factors that have not been fully considered. Also don't rely on friends heresay !

Do a complete start to finish plan with all costs attached with an inflation cost increase factored in for future phases. Concrete is a major cost factor.

You may also want to consult with a professional to have him look at your plan and costs. After all construction is not your profession. You may be handy but you are not a contractor.

Wayne

[Rich Janouskovec]

My building is similar to what you want to build. I used spray foam insulation and the building is very tight. Your idea of putting in footers is a great idea. Just remember to allow for things like drains, water, and electric before hand. Also with the high ceilings it will take a lot to heat. I have 2 100k furnaces and it takes 2 hrs in the winter to get it up to 60 degrees. 

[auburnseeker]

103.JPG104.JPGIMG_0812.JPGMy building is similar to what you want to build. I used spray foam insulation and the building is very tight. Your idea of putting in footers is a great idea. Just remember to allow for things like drains, water, and electric before hand. Also with the high ceilings it will take a lot to heat. I have 2 100k furnaces and it takes 2 hrs in the winter to get it up to 60 degrees. 

What size is your building.  Rough cost? 

I do plan on heating it all the time all be it probably to 45 when I'm not using it.  I know the cubic space will take alot to heat but if insulated properly I think it will be reasonable.  Probably more reasonable than my smaller not very well insulated concrete block shop. 

Thanks for the input.

[auburnseeker]

Looks like you should step back and have another look. Seems like there are many factors that have not been fully considered. Also don't rely on friends heresay !

Do a complete start to finish plan with all costs attached with an inflation cost increase factored in for future phases. Concrete is a major cost factor.

You may also want to consult with a professional to have him look at your plan and costs. After all construction is not your profession. You may be handy but you are not a contractor.

Wayne

I actually was a contractor but decided that I didn't like dealing with employees or customers after a while so I decided when it was time to get a bigger operation after over 5 years of doing that, to change directions. 

[Rich Janouskovec]

My building is 50x 70 doors are 16x16 so I have probably another 6 ft. higher in the center above the doors. I think by the time I did the floors, electric, floor drains, insulation, water, heat, phone, windows, and siding about 100k at the time. The foam insulation was a great idea. It keeps it really tight. I also bought quality double insulated overhead garage doors and at that size they were not cheap. Also they have automatic openers. By the way I went with vinyl siding because I wanted no painting maintenance. I had a t-111 building before and had to paint it every 2 years. You are right about the steel roof, a friend of mine has one and the sliding snow is a real problem for him.

Edited March 1, 2016 by Rich Janouskovec (see edit history)

[Guest AlCapone]

My building is 50x 70 doors are 16x16 so I have probably another 6 ft. higher in the center above the doors. I think by the time I did the floors, electric, floor drains, insulation, water, heat, phone, windows, and siding about 100k at the time. The foam insulation was a great idea. It keeps it really tight. I also bought quality double insulated overhead garage doors and at that size they were not cheap. Also they have automatic openers. By the way I went with plastic siding because I wanted no painting maintenance. I had a t-111 building before and had to paint it every 2 years. You are right about the steel roof, a friend of mine has one and the sliding snow is a real problem for him.

Snow dams are available to deal with sliding snow. My building is twice this size with no snow problems. Wind is also not a problem but it is with my shingled roofs ! Wayne

[Amphicar BUYER]

Soon (1 to 2 years) I will also be building a new shop. As soon as the stars and galaxys are aligned correctly.I too will have to sell some cars to finance it, then I won't have any cars to put inside!

 

It will; have a metal roof and siding for the snow and less maintenance. I will have snow dams to eliminate snow sliding off where I don't want it to. I can't believe anyone in a snowy area would have them I am going to have 2 main areas separated with a large door in between so I can choose to heat or cool part of it. Sprayed in foam insulation and a million outlets along with air connections every few feet (and a handful outside as well). Along one side will be a pole barn type shed roof for semi-protected outdoor storage. Garage doors on both ends for accessibility. It will also have a segregated wash bay with a lift as well. Overall size is TBD. Depending on my budget, I could end up with a Tough shed. (shrug)

[auburnseeker]

I never looked into snow dams.  I just know metal roofs come with their own set of problems.  I've never had wind be a problem with any of my shingled roofs.  Even my seriously deteriorated one at the shop that you can almost pick the shingles off with your hands without bending a tab. 

[John_S_in_Penna]

 I just know metal roofs come with their own set of problems....

 

Metal roofs, if they are the screw-down kind, have

hundreds of penetrations (screw holes) that eventually leak

when the grommets deteriorate.  For a storage building, 

you may be able to live with a few leaks;  but if you are

finishing any part inside, such as for an office, you don't want

leaks!

 

The best kind of metal roof is standing-seam metal,

which is considerably more expensive but which

has no exposed holes.  Seamed-in-place standing-seam metal

is the best.  However, most people want low-cost storage space

and the best roofs become cost-prohibitive.

[CHAD THOMAS]

A friend of mine did a steel building on a full foundation with a basement. special floor sections engineered to support 20 classic cars on the main floor with 16' ceilings, 9' ceilings in the basement. If your site is on a hill you may want to look into this style. 

[auburnseeker]

Here are some photos of the spot and what is already existing on the property so you can see what I kind of want to match to tie it all together.  

First is the house of course and the front pf my existing 28 by 50 garage.  

 

Next is the "exit" off the driveway that I put in which will have to go by the old shed that I rehabbed this fall. (It was just posts that were thrown up 10 years ago with a temporary roof.  The Posts are all pressure treated and it was in good shape , very plumb and square still,  so I sided it built doors for it now I need to go back and finish the roof off. )  

I widened the drive to it by about twice what it was and properly graded it then graded the entire area in front of it as well as inside and put 2 tandem dump truck loads of crusher run in.  I also knocked down a couple trees and started digging the base out for the drive up to the new shop location.   I didn't get the excavator until the end of November so I ran out of time to get any further.  

 

 

Here are a few shots of the garage location.  Corners are marked with orange sticks and there was yellow line between them but one of the kids is going to get a talking to about leaving lines alone.   I put 2 up but ran out of line to tie together when one of them ran away with the pieces they cut out of them. 

 All I cut was the underbrush so far.  I wanted to be sure I was going to go ahead with it before I scalped that much of the property.  It is 70 feet from the front of the new garage location to the back of my existing garage.  

I think there is about 6 foot of grade from the highest point to the lowest point. 

This is just roughly laid out and I know there is a bit of excavating to do but it seems like the best spot to build.  

The trees won't be a problem.  My Dad was a lumberjack and still is so we can have those down in a day or two and blocked/ cut into logs.  You can just see the house in the distance of the 5th photo so it won't be real noticeable even coming up the drive.  

Edited March 1, 2016 by auburnseeker (see edit history)

[padgett]

My back garage has doors on both ends. Good for both ventilation and moving cars around. I also have a portable lift that can go in any bay.

[auburnseeker]

With the layout I was thinking.  I'm going to get it framed for a door at each end but I'm only going to put one in for now.  Not only the cost but energy loss were taken into consideration when thinking about one door.  It probably won't cost much more than a thousand I would imagine to add a door opening to the other gable end and just fill it in for the time being.   A couple entry doors or even one at the far end will give some pretty good ventilation as well.  My current smaller garages are like wind tunnels when you open the garage door and even crack a window at the far end.  I know even good garage doors are terrible for energy consumption and drafts around that outer seal. an 1/8 inch thick vinyl flap is not like 4 inches of foam or 6 inches of glass and an inch or two of foam.  

The plan is to leave the center bay open except maybe my daily beater for now and park cars on each side perpendicular to the center bay so I have access to any car at any time and not have a need to move one car to get to the one behind it.  A second floor on both outside bays will give me storage room for my parts business.  

All hypothetical at the moment of course. 

[John_S_in_Penna]

... A second floor on both outside bays will give me storage room for my parts business. ... 

 

I'm sure you know, Auburn Seeker, that car parts can be heavy!

You would likely design the floor of your storage loft for loads considerably higher than for a house or a garage.

 

The code our state uses says minimum live loads are

50 lb/sq.ft. for a garage (without car lifts);  but 125 for light storage and 250 for heavy storage!

Obviously, you would design such a storage loft for what your particular needs are.

Maybe you're selling automotive light bulbs and not transmission gears.

And if your storage lofts are to go in in the future, the building itself must be designed now

to accommodate that future weight.

Edited March 2, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[DavidAU]

"Metal roofs, if they are the screw-down kind, have

hundreds of penetrations (screw holes) that eventually leak

when the grommets deteriorate.  For a storage building, 

you may be able to live with a few leaks;  but if you are

finishing any part inside, such as for an office, you don't want

leaks!"

I was a Metal roofing Contractor for about 45 years here in Australia where the climate is a lot harsher and in that time my company installed thousands of tons of metal roofing and millions of fixing screws and have never been back to rectify leaking screws.

The only time you get leaking screw is where the person doing the installation uses a normal drill and not a clutched screw gun. By using a drill, the screw can be overtightened and it will spit the neoprene washer out and dent the top of the rib. Then you will get a leak. Here in Australia screwed metal roofs are now days used on most types of buildings including about 70% of all new houses built, sheds large and small and shopping centres, industrial buildings etc.

The clip type roofs are now usually used on the large type buildings like shopping malls, very large industrial buildings and the like where the pitch of the roof is low and there will a fair amount of expansion and contraction so the sheets can move on the fixing clips. A lot of Government buildings, Airports etc also use the clip roofs as they have plenty of money (ours)

Edited March 2, 2016 by DavidAU (see edit history)

[John_S_in_Penna]

I was a Metal roofing Contractor for about 45 years here in Australia where the climate is a lot harsher and in that time my company installed thousands of tons of metal roofing and millions of fixing screws and have never been back to rectify leaking screws...

 

David, I'm glad to hear you've had good experience.

Just two days ago I was just talking to a builder, and he was

yet another voice describing the deterioration of the neoprene grommets

and the resulting leaks.  How long do the screw-down roofs

last in your part of Australia without problems?  30, 40, 50 years?

How many inches of rain does your area receive annually?

[R Walling]

 

Here are some photos of the spot and what is already existing on the property so you can see what I kind of want to match to tie it all together.  

First is the house of course and the front pf my existing 28 by 50 garage.  

 

 

 With all those trees you should build a log cabin!  LOL

[auburnseeker]

 With all those trees you should build a log cabin!  LOL

Well a bunch of those may get sawed out for future projects.  The hardwood will be cut up for Firewood.  Nothing really veneer worthy in that spot.  Mostly just pine.  

[auburnseeker]

I'm sure you know, Auburn Seeker, that car parts can be heavy!

You would likely design the floor of your storage loft for loads considerably higher than for a house or a garage.

 

The code our state uses says minimum live loads are

50 lb/sq.ft. for a garage (without car lifts);  but 125 for light storage and 250 for heavy storage!

Obviously, you would design such a storage loft for what your particular needs are.

Maybe you're selling automotive light bulbs and not transmission gears.

And if your storage lofts are to go in in the future, the building itself must be designed now

to accommodate that future weight.

I've given that alot of thought. I can build the second floor pretty much free standing supported by 8 by 8 posts or comparable steel .  The posts won't be a problem as I expect to make the equivalent of garage type stalls on the side.  No posts would obviously be nice but I can deal with them.  Besides it will give me a place to hang fire extinguishers.  I also plan on storing my heavy parts on the ground floor.  There will still be plenty of room for shelves along the outside wall.  

[Matt Harwood]

I put a lot of thought into building a garage a few years ago and wrote about it here:

 

http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial%2027.htm

 

I mean I spent a ridiculous amount of time planning and thinking about it. I was a daily reader at garagejournal.com. I compiled everything I learned about other people's mistakes and put it into this plan. It may not be quite what you're looking for, but there are plenty of tips in there that I gleaned from people who already did it and said what they would want to do differently. It's a great exercise, anyway.

 

I'll never get my dream garage now, mostly because I don't need it anymore, but it sure was fun to dream. I envy you this adventure!

[Guest AlCapone]

I put a lot of thought into building a garage a few years ago and wrote about it here:

http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial%2027.htm

I mean I spent a ridiculous amount of time planning and thinking about it. I was a daily reader at garagejournal.com. I compiled everything I learned about other people's mistakes and put it into this plan. It may not be quite what you're looking for, but there are plenty of tips in there that I gleaned from people who already did it and said what they would want to do differently. It's a great exercise, anyway.

I'll never get my dream garage now, mostly because I don't need it anymore, but it sure was fun to dream. I envy you this adventure!

Heh Matt. Never say never! A man with your initiative, anything is possible. Wayne Edited March 2, 2016 by AlCapone (see edit history)

[39BuickEight]

As a property insurance adjuster, I can assure you, in my geographical area, the typical exposed screw metal roofs do leak eventually.  Some immediately, some in a few years.  Unless you get the standing seam metal, or just like the look of metal, I'd do shingles.  It's really just personal preference.  Metal, even when poorly installed, does well with wind, but will have odd leaks.  Properly installed shingles do not leak and can easily withstand anything other than a tornado.  I have 3 relatives that all say they wish they just had done shingles (3 different metal contractors with the same materials).

 

Also, don't let metal roof contractors charge you more.  Is my area, they are the same price.  Standing seam is more because it is functionally better, truly.  Like I said though, some people like the look, some don't.

[John_S_in_Penna]

As a property insurance adjuster, I can assure you, in my geographical area, the typical exposed screw metal roofs do leak eventually.  Some immediately, some in a few years.  Unless you get the standing seam metal, or just like the look of metal, I'd do shingles....

 

Thanks for the confirmation from another part of the country, Mr. '39 Buick.

[auburnseeker]

I put a lot of thought into building a garage a few years ago and wrote about it here:

 

http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial%2027.htm

 

I mean I spent a ridiculous amount of time planning and thinking about it. I was a daily reader at garagejournal.com. I compiled everything I learned about other people's mistakes and put it into this plan. It may not be quite what you're looking for, but there are plenty of tips in there that I gleaned from people who already did it and said what they would want to do differently. It's a great exercise, anyway.

 

I'll never get my dream garage now, mostly because I don't need it anymore, but it sure was fun to dream. I envy you this adventure!

Those are alot of good ideas Matt.  I had considered several of them before after already having a garage and dealing with the pluses and minuses over the last 10 years.   

I have 8 foot Fluorescent lights in my current shop mounted at angles.  That makes a huge different and you get very few shadows.

I added the eastwood air line kit after dealing with air hoses on the floor, so My new shop will have air lines in atleast part of it.  

Radiant in floor heat as well.  

Geo Thermal heat would be nice but we are really high in the mountains and a local business that put it in went way over budget before they had it working right for them.   I know our well is 800 feet deep.  Surprising since there seems to be a spring maybe 150-200 feet from it.  Part of the joy of living on a rock. 

I did plan on a somewhat limited amount of windows because of heat loss in the winter like you were considering. ,  although the one side has great southern exposure and actually parallels a power line so the trees don't block the sun.  

This is not really my dream garage but a practical work storage area I can play with my cars in.  

If money didn't matter I would build a shop that would make the house look like a guest cottage, especially with my personal taste in material and fine wood working. 

I figure once I get it up I can always tweak things to add character later.  

Budget is a big concern especially on this size of building. 

Thanks for posting the link it was a good read and gave me some food for thought.

[auburnseeker]

As a property insurance adjuster, I can assure you, in my geographical area, the typical exposed screw metal roofs do leak eventually.  Some immediately, some in a few years.  Unless you get the standing seam metal, or just like the look of metal, I'd do shingles.  It's really just personal preference.  Metal, even when poorly installed, does well with wind, but will have odd leaks.  Properly installed shingles do not leak and can easily withstand anything other than a tornado.  I have 3 relatives that all say they wish they just had done shingles (3 different metal contractors with the same materials).

 

Also, don't let metal roof contractors charge you more.  Is my area, they are the same price.  Standing seam is more because it is functionally better, truly.  Like I said though, some people like the look, some don't.

I have always preferred Shingles and that was one of my sticking points in a building as many want to just sell you all metal.  I don't want metal siding and I don't want a metal roof so that automatically makes most of the buildings I have inquired into a special quote.

I was a contractor.  I worked on metal by choice of the home owner (hated it)  and shingled several roofs both as new construction and tear offs.  

Especially with snow build up.  Give me a shingled roof any day.  I have to get on my metal shop roof (it was their when I Bought the building) to shovel the snow off and clean the chimney.  I'm still amazed I haven't ended up on the ground yet.  Probably because it's rusted.

Does anyone know of an online site the lets you build and price a building even a somewhat basic one?

[Amphicar BUYER]

I saw comments about exterior doors. Be sure you have plenty for escape route in case of fire.

[John_S_in_Penna]

Does anyone know of an online site the lets you build and price a building even a somewhat basic one?

 

I'd be interested to know if you find such an internet site.

I would think that building companies such as Morton

have so many possibilities and options that that work

would be done by salesmen and estimating departments;

and since they don't provide the foundations, or the HVAC,

or the electrical, they'd have no idea what was needed or wanted.

 

Further, custom building for conventional construction

would have so many geographical variations that no website

could price it accurately.  But maybe some website tries---

 

If you wanted a book, you could look at Means estimating manuals.

Though they're likely above the layman's understanding,

they may be useful to you since you have a construction background

Edited March 2, 2016 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)