Jump to content

Dennis

Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dennis

  1. Looks like they came off of a Sedan Delivery, like the one shown in the photo above. Check with Hippo Hardware for those parts they may have what you are looking for since going there is like stepping into a museum. They are located at 1040 E. Burnside Street, Portland, Or 97214, phone number 503-231-1444, web site http://hippohardware.com. Open M---Thursday----10am---5pm, Friday ---Saturday----10am-6pm, Sunday 10am---5pm.
  2. If a socket will not go on the lug nut and you have room to swing a hammer try splitting the nut. With a good sharp chisel and a hammer you might have better luck than a ax. Drive the chisel toward the hub.
  3. Link Belt also makes one like that and is available at Woodcrafters or Rockler Hardware. Like an earlier message your local industrial supply house will also have it. The belt that Woodcrafters and Rockle Hardware have is red in color and I think it has some fiberglass in it. You do not need any special tool to put together. I worked as a Millwright in a Foundry for 30 years and when I first went into maintenance we had two compressors with oilers driven by belts like the one in the picture.
  4. Hardie Board would fit your need in to not needing to stain it every couple of years. IT comes in sheets that resemble "T"-111 even when up close. The Hardie Board built like beveled cedar siding will fool someone who does not know what it really is. We put Hardie Board on the Elks Lodge that we built, like your building steel frame with a sheet metal roof. Another thing Hardie Board is fire resistant even though it has wood fibers mixed in the cement. Our building is 60 by 80 and insulated in the roof and walls. I recommend Hardie Board for your building and I don't think anyone will know the difference when they look at it either before it is painted or after.
  5. Brian, check with Myers Early Dodge. I just checked and they have several different printings listed on their web site catalog.
  6. I just looked up a bearing supplier that may be able to help you I went to them many times. Aside from taking the bearing if possable you may need to take the axel to them so they can measure where the bearings go. The company is Applied Industrial Technologies Inc. they are located all over Texas so you should be close to them. Again Good Luck, Dennis Schmidt
  7. I worked as a Millwright for 30 plus years and replaced many bearings and picked up bearings at businesses specialized in Bearings. A good reputable Bearing House should be able to get you the bearings that you need using their cross reference charts. Bearings world wide are made a set of standards. I would go to a Bearing House with your bearings so they can measure them if need be and get any numbers off of the cup and cone so they know just what will fit. Good Luck.
  8. You might try looking at the Identification tag on the transmission that is if it is still on the transmission. I took a look at the Ford Shop manual for my 1962 Fairlane, I know it is older but it is the best I can do. The information in the manual looking at the tag from left to right top 4 letters give transmission model and suffix last gives service identification code number. The bottom first 3 numbers gives the engine displacement, the 4th is the year, the 5th is month, 6th & 7th day and the last shift. For interpretation of those numbers see a Master Parts Catalog. Good Luck.
  9. Jim, I would not use just plain soap and water. What I would suggest along that line would be saddle soap, but before using it I would check with a business such as Tandy Leather. Checking with those auto companies that use Leather in their vehicles. Good Luck
  10. From the looks of it the drive shaft was enclosed in a tube like early Fords such as the 1940 era cars.
  11. I live onside of the U.S. but I would suggest a steel frame building as you indicated a 4--12 pitch, with metal roofing which will outlast asphalt or wood. I also belong to Elks 18 years ago we built a steel structure with concrete siding which looks like cedar siding and also comes in sheets that looks like T-1. You could also lay your shop out on paper with scale models of the vehicles that you own, I would add at least a foot on each side to give you room to move. The building that we had constructed has 12 foot eves I would recommend for your purposes at lease 14 foot. A area set aside for working on your vehicles two or three at a time with room for tools, work benches, power tools and just extra room to move around in, this room could be heated for a more comfortable working conditions during the fall and winter. The structure that we built is 4800 square feet and is 60 by 80, it is also insulated in the roof I think r30. Granted it is not a shop but the size is the size that you are looking at and engineered for snow load which in the Portland, Oregon area we don't as much as on the East Coast but we still need to take it into consideration. The walls are also insulated but I am not sure what the rating is but there are 2 X 6's on edge in the walls. Using metal roofing when you have snow or ice build up when it does finally slide off it can take the eves trough off which happened here about four years ago, still cheaper to replace the eves troughs than the roof. Also the concrete siding is fire resistant. I hope this helps and as the gentleman suggested be sure the roof load bearing is high enough for lots of snow.
  12. The Shop Manual for 62 Ford Fairlane 500 that I have shows the pressure should be 750--900 psi. I also checked my Glen's 1965 Auto Repair Manual it shows the pressure should be 800--1000 psi. Also my Ford Manual says to allow at least two minuets for the fluid to warm up. If pressure using a testing tool with the shutoff valve fully closed if the pressure is still less than 750 psi the pump is causing the problem. If the pressure increases to 750--900 psi the problem is either the control valve or power cylinder. The Fairlane uses a hydraulic cylinder to move the front end assembly for turning, I do not know if the Mustang uses the same system or not. I hope this helps. Dennis
  13. I do not own a Auburn or have a photo of one but if you live near a Automobile Museum you might visit it. Many years ago a friend of mine while hunting found an brought home a frame with a few parts attached to and placed it in front of my shop. He said he thought it was Dodge, wrong it turned out to be 26 Chevrolet I think. We happen to go to Reno to celebrate New Years Eve so I went to Harrah's Museum to find out just what he had placed in front of my shop. That following April I happened to have a booth at the Portland Swap Meet so I put it on a trailer put a sign on it that said if it did not sell it was scrap. I did sell it and took it to my Dad's so the buyer could pick it up since he did not have a way to haul it which made both of happy. Another place to look would be your local library they should have a book or at least a photo of an Auburn that should help you. Good Luck, Dennis
  14. They are used on hydraulic lines, wire bundles and tubing in general on aircraft such as B52's and KC-135. At least they were when I worked on them while in the Air Force. So I would check our a hydraulic shop in your area.
  15. You might go to a place that specializes in bearings. You will need to at the very least take the needle bearing with you so that they can hopeful find a number on it. Also you might take the shaft that fits inside it with you, and if possible take the transmission with you so that they can measure the hole where the bearing goes in. In the Portland, Oregon area there are a number of places that specialize in bearings any of them should be able to help you. Good Luck in your search.
  16. From page that I have from the 9th edition of the Master Parts Price List under miscellaneous data it says that the engine number is approximately 50,000 higher than the car number. Just going by that the sheet list production data from 1915 through 1927 I would guess 1922 between May 17th and June 9th. Hope this helps give you an idea what years to look at, good luck.
  17. You are very welcome. What I remember is that there were puddles of oil around the Distributor. After looking at the shop manual for the Fairlane, it showed a "O" ring on the base.
  18. You mentioned a oil leak many years ago I had a 1962 Ford Fairlane which had an oil leak on top also. It took me a while to find out where the oil was coming from but I finally figured out it was coming from the Distributor, the "O" ring on the base was bad and that is where the oil was coming from. Every time oil appeared up on top I just changed the "O" ring and the oil leak would be stopped. By the way that was on the 221 CI engine and later the 1964 Ford Fairlane 289 CI engine that put in it for a while up until I got married, the 289 used too much fuel on GI pay.
  19. The information that I have from the Dodge Brothers Master Parts list is: Production by Car Number (by 10,000 cars) 820,000 December 12, 1923-----826,402 January 1, 1924, so I think your car was proudced between those two dates which unless I am wrong makes it a 1923 or possiably a 1924. A newer version of the parts book than I have might help also, the page that I got that information is from later than the Fifth Edition that I have. A photo would be helpful also. Good Luck!
  20. According to the Master Parts Price List Dodge Brothers book 5th Edition the number will be found stamped on the small plate near the right end of the upper toe board in the front compartment if the car, and also stamped near the right end of the of the frame center cross member is under the floor board near the right door. Also it says the chassis number is the same as the cnumber. This information is on page xxiv (under miscellaneous data). Good Luck Dennis W. Schmidt
  21. Ian I don,t know if this will help but it would be worth a try. The Portland Swap meet is this weekend April 6th to 8th someone involved with the event may be able to help you. Here is an address that may help: pdxswap@aol.com. Baxter Auto Parts is one of the sponsers, their contact information is: www.baxterautoparts.com. Another source would be the Multnoma Hot Rod Council 503-232-4567 they may have a web site or E-mail address but I did not find it in the phone book. They along with other auto clubs putmon the Swap Meet. Sorry about not getting you the Portland swap meet information sooner but I was having trouble getting on this site. I do live in tht Portland area so if I can help please let me know. Dennis
×
×
  • Create New...