Willy Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Do I have to remove the front timing chain cover? Willy Edited February 23, 2016 by Willy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HBergh Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) I've attached a Generator Removal procedure file that was submitted by another Dodge owner. I hope this helps. 1919 StarterGenerator Removal.pdf Edited February 23, 2016 by HBergh (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 No, just the end cap on gear case to expose the starter chain. Then hand crank engine until the master link is accessible. Be sure and secure the ends of the chain once you remove the master link. I removed mine recently and it went pretty easy following the procedure HBergh attached. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68dodgeramman Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 (edited) On 2/23/2016 at 4:56 PM, HBergh said: I've attached a Generator Removal procedure file that was submitted by another Dodge owner. I hope this helps. 1919 StarterGenerator Removal.pdf I know I'm late to the conversation, but does anyone have a link to this PDF. This link says it has been removed. Also, how do I get the front chain case cover off? I have all the bolts out but it's still connected somewhere, lol. Thanks for the help! Edited July 21, 2022 by 68dodgeramman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 I hope you have the engine supported if you are removing the front chain case cover. 🫣 This cover is the support for the front engine mount. the tube end fits in the front cover. the ball fits in the front chassis rail. If you have undone all the bolts your engine is only held by the rear bolts holding the block to the rear mount and gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 If you look at Minibago's engine picture the small cover right behind the S/G is the only thing you need to remove to get to the things you need to do to remove the S/G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68dodgeramman Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Thanks Minibago and nearchoclatetown. I have it suspended by an engine hoist. Does the the ball/tube slide out or is it connected somehow as well? Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 You do NOT need to remove the ball mount. Only reason would be if you are removing the engine for some reason. Find the master link and take it apart hanging onto the ends with wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted July 26, 2022 Share Posted July 26, 2022 68dodgeramman, I'll have to PM you the original PDF I made in 2014 as this system does not allow PDF attachments. Hope it helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongTraveler Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) I've started helping a gent that has a 1925 Dodge Brothers coupe and we think the starter / gen is misbehaving. He said that it was not charging. With the cover that is over the brushes removed he was trying to start it and I saw that one of the braided wires going to a brush turned molten red. We are thinking that it needs to come off to have a professional take a look at it. I'm not at all familiar with these cars as I am a Model A guy for the most part. Did a little searching (found this post and a couple others) and found that one needs to remove the cover over the chain and split the chain at the master link attaching a wire to each end of the chain to keep them from falling away. Pulled the cover and found that the master link looks to have been put on backwards. Seems that there is no way to pull it out of the chain as the head of it will come up against the large nut after only about a 1/4" of travel. You can just see the copper wire that holds the end link in place by the yellow arrow. I'm not very excited about having to pull the engine apart more to gain access to the master link after moving it into a different location. Is there something else that I could do? The thought crossed my mind to remove the wire and end link to move it as far as I can toward the starter and then clip / cut the two pins so the head of the link could be lifted up and out and then the pins pulled out towards the front. Not sure if a replacement master link pin assembly is even something that could be found. I'm open to suggestions. I did just order the factory repair shop manual. Edited January 16, 2023 by LongTraveler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) With the engine running at a high idle, have you checked the output? (Positive ground by the way) You can buy a new chain but not sure about the link. Contact Myers http://myersearlydodge.com/ or ROMAR https://romardb.com/ Got to wonder how they managed that even with the gear cover off! Edited January 16, 2023 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gossp Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 @LongTraveler You can remove the front cover to get access to the full chain (and rotate it to an area where removal of master link will be possible)Keep in mind, the front cover is your front motor mount, so we are not talking about a small job… but less of a job than pulling the engine. I could be completely wrong about this being possible, as I have not worked on a sheet metal pan car in 20 years, it is possible on my 15. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongTraveler Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Mark - Thanks for the links. Good to know some places to get parts. I haven't seen it run yet. When I saw the starter brush wire getting red hot as soon as it started to turn over we stopped and didn't attempt to start it after that. What would cause the wire to get so hot so quickly? gossp - Yep it would be really nice if I could do it without pulling off the front cover. The car isn't at my shop so doing something like this away from easy access to my tools etc... working on a new to me style of car makes it a challenge. Digging into the engine mounts etc... is something I'd like to steer away from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 A “glowing red” wire is indicating a dead short and if you had continued would either melt the wire through or worse, cause a fire / explode the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Your original suggestion of pushing the master link through and cut off the end plate is how I would do it. No need to go through all that other work. You can get a new link from either Myers or Romar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongTraveler Posted January 19, 2023 Share Posted January 19, 2023 Appreciate the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 (edited) make sure the suppliers have them in stock before you do any cutting. Oh..if one of the suppliers do have the removable link in stock please come back and let us know. From what I had read, they didn't, but that could have been wrong. I have a couple (not extras) that are in so-so condition but would like replacements. Edited January 20, 2023 by Mark Gregush (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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