LongTraveler

Appreciate the advice.

Mark - Thanks for the links. Good to know some places to get parts. I haven't seen it run yet. When I saw the starter brush wire getting red hot as soon as it started to turn over we stopped and didn't attempt to start it after that. What would cause the wire to get so hot so quickly? gossp - Yep it would be really nice if I could do it without pulling off the front cover. The car isn't at my shop so doing something like this away from easy access to my tools etc... working on a new to me style of car makes it a challenge. Digging into the engine mounts etc... is something I'd like to steer away from.

I've started helping a gent that has a 1925 Dodge Brothers coupe and we think the starter / gen is misbehaving. He said that it was not charging. With the cover that is over the brushes removed he was trying to start it and I saw that one of the braided wires going to a brush turned molten red. We are thinking that it needs to come off to have a professional take a look at it. I'm not at all familiar with these cars as I am a Model A guy for the most part. Did a little searching (found this post and a couple others) and found that one needs to remove the cover over the chain and split the chain at the master link attaching a wire to each end of the chain to keep them from falling away. Pulled the cover and found that the master link looks to have been put on backwards. Seems that there is no way to pull it out of the chain as the head of it will come up against the large nut after only about a 1/4" of travel. You can just see the copper wire that holds the end link in place by the yellow arrow. I'm not very excited about having to pull the engine apart more to gain access to the master link after moving it into a different location. Is there something else that I could do? The thought crossed my mind to remove the wire and end link to move it as far as I can toward the starter and then clip / cut the two pins so the head of the link could be lifted up and out and then the pins pulled out towards the front. Not sure if a replacement master link pin assembly is even something that could be found. I'm open to suggestions. I did just order the factory repair shop manual.

The lifts are some that are used at the place I work at. They are synchronized to lift at the same time or you can adjust them individually if you want to have one end or side higher but that can get dicey real quick if your not careful. JFranklin and Keiser31 it is in pretty good shape but it does have a few places where rust needs repaired. The front mounts from the frame to the body (about where the drivers and passengers feet are) need repair. Some rust through the floor pan at the area of the drivers heels and the lower edge of the body under the drivers side doors has a few spots I've already cut out. A small bit just in front of the drivers door down low on the rear of the front fender and the floor of the trunk needs replaced. When typed out is feels like a lot but it really isn't. As I said earlier the interior is done and ready to go in. What I mean by interior is the seats, door panels, package tray, head liner, carpets for the floor, door sill pads, welting, hand hold loops stainless trim all are done and ready for installation. The interior material is spot on the same as original. I even had the material sent out to have the small holes that perforated the original material duplicated. I have a new dash wiring kit from Rock Island Wiring for it. I also have a NOS back up light kit complete and still in the box along with front mount fog lights. I have the flip handles for the windows that are quite nice too. The two large pieces of stainless trim under both doors were in pretty rough shape when I got it but was able to find two NOS replacement pieces along with NOS stainless trim pieces for the rear fenders above the wheels. All of the other trim is there and in good shape. I have a spare front bumper, bumper spears, spare hood and several extra pieces of the bakelite dash pieces and an extra dash. Heaters are in good shape. One of them had a bad fitting and I had it repaired. Clock was sent out and has been refurbished. I did pull the oil pan early on and while cleaning it out opened up some pin holes. I repaired them but have a good pan on hand to replace it. I'm sure there is other stuff I'm forgetting. The knob for turning on the windshield wipers has gone missing. When I was in the process of taking it off it went zipping off someplace and has yet to resurface. A mystery I have yet to solve... I have not done much as far as engine and drive train work. However the car does run and we did some limited driving in it just to make sure things worked as they should have before I brought it in the shop. Didn't really want to drive it too much after we bought it because the owner before us didn't have it in a place that was free of mice and they had made the interior a not too pleasant place to be. I stripped the interior out and cleaned it super well and then placed a commercial ozone machine in it and now there is absolutely no trace of mouse left. Master brake cylinder has been replaced along with the individual wheel slave cylinders and brake lines. Brake pads have been replaced and the wheel bearings cleaned and repacked. Paint job looks nice in the pictures but it needs a refresh paint job. If someone is truly interested in this car send me a p.m. and we can exchange phone numbers and talk about it, get specific pictures etc... Thanks,

Bought and started the restoration of a 1948 Chrysler Traveler several years ago. I've somewhat stalled out on the project and am considering selling. Car is all there, interior is all redone as original but not put in as of yet. Roof rack is complete and is quite nice. Let me know if you are or know of someone that is interested in a Traveler. Dave Lincoln Nebraska

Domi, Sent you a p.m. too.

Thanks Jack. Good info. Unfortunately I don't have the parts that you are wanting. Dave

I just purchased quite a few parts from a gent that had a late 47 Chrysler Traveler that was damaged beyond repair by a tree falling on it. Since I have a 48 Traveler that I am (slowly) restoring I bought all the bits and pieces he had left from it. I believe that the body parts and most other parts are the same as the standard 4 door sedans with the exception of badges, dash trim etc... specific to the Traveler. So if I have say a brake drum or the stainless trim or pot metal trim, bumpers etc... what years will those parts fit on? There are quite a few parts that I won't be needing so knowing what years they should fit will help me in selling the extras, Dave

Thought that some here might have an interest in a Desoto Fire Dome V-Eight neon sign that I have listed on Ebay. It's a pretty darn nice piece. https://www.ebay.com/itm/192653814558

I know a gentleman that has a hood he is looking to sell. Would anyone be able to give me an idea as to what it is for?

Good advice on the ferrule. Mine fell out when I pulled my tank. Glad I saw it come out because it could have cause a lot of trouble not knowing it was supposed to be there. What was the reason for replacing your tank? I looked back through your posts but didn't notice the reason for replacing it.

Still sounds as if you have air in the line(s) somewhere. When bleeding the brakes I started at the rear and did the fronts last. Don't really think that it matters though. Are you making sure that you are not allowing the brake fluid to get too low and allowing air back into the lines before topping it off during the bleeding process? Are you shutting the bleeder valves tight before allowing your helper lift their foot off the brake pedal? Could one or more of your brake shoes be too far away from a brake drum? Reaching on this one but... Is your brake pedal shaft cracked at the pivot point and flexing enough to not allow you to put sufficient pressure to the master cylinder?

Got my oil pan. Thanks Jack!

Yes it is a 6 cylinder.

It has some pretty severe dents and lots of rust pits in the bottom. One has gone all the way through and several are threatening to. I'd feel okay with fixing it if they were not so spread out. Couple that with the dents and a different pan is looking like the better way to go.

Got the email and now I see the red envelope. I had gotten emails before but had never noticed the envelope notification. Many thanks!! Hopefully someone has that oil pan I'm looking for

I posted on the wanted forum earlier today. I asked that if someone had the item I needed to send me a pm. In the time that I have been a member I don't think that I have yet to receive a pm. So what type of notification does one get to alert them when one does get a pm? Dave

I am in need of an oil pan for my 48 Traveler. Please p.m. me if you have one to sell. Thanks, Dave

Today I was using a long wire to clean out some junk in the flywheel housing on my 48 Traveler via the aluminum screen on the passenger side of the housing. The flat piece of metal was laying on the bottom of the housing. It seems to be possibly a type of spring steel. Any idea as to what it is?

Thank you. I will get in touch with them.

The wiring inside the car is in rather good shape. However the wiring under the hood is in questionable shape. Can anyone point me in the direction of someone that may sell a wiring harness just for the engine compartment? Thanks, Dave

Thanks for the link. They look like a great resource. I sent them an email tonight and will follow up with a call tomorrow. Dave

Posted a thread a few days ago in regards to a water pump and fuel pump for my 48 Traveler. Seems that it must have vaporized for some reason. I found the water pump at NAPA and it looks to be a perfect match so all is good there. My fuel pump looks to be good but I was thinking it might be prudent to rebuild it while I have it off the car. Does anyone know of a source for a rebuild kit or do I need to order a complete new one? Thanks, Dave

Still working on the Traveler. I am going to pull the radiator and replace all of the hoses. I figure while I have the radiator pulled I should either rebuild or replace the water pump. I have been looking at what my options are for water pumps. I have not found a "rebuild" kit for it. On Ebay I see quite a few Gates 42554 pumps and Napa shows a TFW 42554 pump. The pictures of them do not show that they have the bypass port for the heater hose. Anyone know if these are the correct pumps or can steer me in the right direction for a pump or a rebuild kit. I believe that my fuel pump is probably up to the task of pumping fuel for the moment but for how long I don't know. Is there a good source for a rebuild kit or do I need to buy a complete unit. Thanks, Dave

Success! I was able to get it off and straightend up. To get it off one must slip a small screw driver along the top edge and work it off first. The top is a friction fit and the bottom hooks under a series of "bumps" off of another metal piece that was missing in the pieces that Jack took photos of. The trim can be bumped forward or backwards to center it after it is put back on. I didn't pull the mounting pieces all the way apart as the rear bolt was rusted tight in the captive nut but I was able to get the front bolt to break loose. I took a small flat punch and hammer and tapped the mounting plates adjacent to the bolts moving it into the correct position. After I got the bracket into place I used some rubbing compound to polish the paint around it before putting the trim back on. As Rusty pointed out the potential for dinging the paint and exposing discolorations is high by doing this. For me leaving a crooked piece of trim was more bothersome than risking some finish issues especially since my paint is by no means perfect. Many thanks to all that took the time to help me out on this!! Dave