Wilf Sedanet

1949 Buick Super Sedanet (56S)

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Wilf, I believe that you need not remove the needle to remove the speedo from the housing - if it is like the '49, the mechanism and needle can be removed as a unit once the bezel is off. It looks very much like the '49, if not exactly the same. Also, if the bezel is like the one on the '49 it is crimped on in four places at the back and easily removed (and re-installed) with reasonable care. The mechanism would probably fit inside the '49 face.

Geoff

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If I read correctly the '49 and '50 gauges are the same. I thought that there maybe was a difference between Super and Roadmaster becuase some look silver/chrome like, some look golden. It turns out those gold looking have some sort of water or corrosion damage (but not normal rust corrosion) or the plastic that was used to seal the numbers has yellowed out or something, not sure. The bezel is crimped. But am I right when concluding I do need to remove the bezel in order to get to the mechanical part of the unit, right? It's not that removing the screws on the rear side dismantle the mechanics..?

What I've read the speedo mechanism is activated by a magnet, so maybe I can get the original one running again. Since the original unit is nicer and the odometer and trip meter do work that would be the best way to go.

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Yes, the bezel should be removed. Disassemble the original (49) speedo to understand how the components fit. The diameter of the actual speedometer is small, the size of the black dial face to which the needle is attached. Cleaning the glass makes a big difference, but don't bother with the black dial face - gently cleaning made no difference on mine.

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Nice job on the mirror. If you still have the original you may want to consider having it resilvered now, and then installed. The Glare proof mirror is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top which is necessary for the day/night feature to work. I did my 56's a long time ago and it was only $12.00. but I realize that it may cost a bit more today.

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Thanks for the heads up! I have the original safely kept. It seems flat to me. The placeholder keeps the front glass in the right angle for the anti glare. I already tested it in the car and it seems to work fine. I can now finally look back at… Well… Through that small rear window there's not a lot to see actually :D

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Yes I'm still alive! ;) In the meantime I've been buying a lot of stuff on eBay and to get the shipping costs as low as possible I sent all the stuff to an shipper in the USofA who sent the lot to me in a container (boat) last week, ETA is next week. I've bought a lot of gauges (everything but the clock - got outbid insanely), a (spare) carb with starter switch, a 6 volt flasher (died suddenly), an original door handle, door spring removal tool, a lot containing a pair of taillight bezels with lens, trunk & hood bezels & headlight rims (all in okay condition - some pitting and such - probably worse than is on my car but you never know when you need it). Also I had put a new order at Bob's Automobilia that is also sent along in the container. That order contains door handle clips, valve cover decals, battery hold down, battery hold down bolt, door handle & winder pressure springs (4), glove box lock with keys, locking gas cap (we're in Europe where gas is somewhat cheaper than gold), oil drain plug replacement and a sales fold out full color reprint.

I hope I can find some time to get the car on dutch license plates this november so I can get it in my own garage near my home, because in december I have a lot of time off - then I could work on detailing close by.

By the way - I wanted to order a lid for the window washer with a working vacuum control and such but man those are hard to find, especially if one does not want to buy the glass jar that comes along or one doesn't want to pay top dollar.

Edited by Wilf DeSoto (see edit history)

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Great to hear from you Wilf! Did you get the transmission issue fixed?

I need the windshield washer system, both the bottle and vacuum pump, but I haven't started looking yet.

Geoff

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I haven't fixed anything but the mirror because the car's stored at a friend's garage and both of us haven't had time to look at the car. I hope we have time this friday or next week.

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Finally, after waiting three months, all the stuff I bought in August are in! Yes, patience is a virtue, I'm already so used to it that I've already reconciled my fate of driving it road legal in 2015... It has almost been a year ago when I bought it anyway.

Here the bought stuff on the dining table. :)

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A lot of stuff is just for on the shelf but the battery hold down is quite essential, me thinks. As is the oil drain plug. Even if the current one can be used, now I have a reference for the size of the gasket ring.

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Wilf,

The door handle is a work of art. This winter I am making a mold to cast a replica in aluminum which will then be polished, just to see how it goes. Beside the fuel gauge, what are the other two gauges? These things are just going to get more rare as time passes. The tail lights and chrome pieces look great!

Geoff

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There are two oil/fuel gauges and one temp/amp gauge. The stuff has been stored and traveled three months so some stuff was moldy and a bit more rusted but it still is in an okay state.

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Yesterday and the next two days the car is finally up in the air! We're cleaning the underside and already found a lot of trouble. The rubbers are pretty worn of almost everything (suspension and tranny et cetera) and there is excessive play on the steering and suspension and bearings. I'm going to need a lot of new things... Even the brake cilinders could use new parts. I certainly have to order a kingpin set, wheel bearings (upgrade to conical if it's possible) and rubbers, gaskets and the like.

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Thanks! We dismantled the whole front train and suspension. Lots of worn parts... Steering knuckle dangerously worn. I'll order at Bobs as well as scarebird (for disc brakes).

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It's late at night and tomorrow I have to rise early again to temporarily put the Buick back together because it has to go off the bridge again. I understand some people think I have lots of bad luck with the suspension / front end but I see it differently. We wouldn't have seen a lot of the trouble if we didn't dismantle everything. There are probably a lot of classic cars on the road, driven by people that haven't seen the inside of their steering knuckles, pitman arm, bearings et cetera et cetera at all. Potential danger when they do not know the full (service) history of their car. Most of the wear was because of items being 65 years old and not frequent lubrication (should be done every 5000 miles or every year, which ever comes first). Cleaning up all the grime, dust and grease that has been settling over the years that hides potential flaws is always a good idea before driving your new classic around.

A lot of the stuff still is usable (balls and cups) but some things are just too worn. The previous owner told me he had new brakes installed. This is true. The hoses and brakes themselves were new / in good shape. But... The brake cilinders haven't been taken apart by the mechanics that installed them. Worse more: They did not even cleaned any part on the linkages and king pin et cetera. How can they work with so much grime around?

Anyway: Now that we have to replace so many things to get the suspension and steering as new we will install a kit from Scarebird (brake discs conversion), install modern shock absorbers (original are worn) and of course new rubbers (if there are no PU-kits are available for the '49 Buicks).

I'm looking forward to the difference in steering and stopping when everything is up to par!

Some pictures of cleaning and removal of all kinds of parts:

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Some cleaned parts, reusable, hanging out to dry after oil cleaning.

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Oil cleaning parts from the steering bar.

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Reusable parts after cleaning.

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Lots of components in the steering bar - all in the right order.

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More cleaned parts.

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Looking very empty - but cleaner than before! Note the completely worn linkage in front of the spring.

I should have made more "before" pictures. There was so much dirt between the back plate of the brakes and the chassis (so everything in between) that steering was almost impossible. The king pin was one solid piece of 7" thick dirt and pebbles.

Edited by Wilf DeSoto (see edit history)

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We'll first fill up the original shocks to see if they work enough for our "DMV". If they do then we will postpone the upgrade for a next time. It will encompass welding shock base plates to the frame and arms. The original shocks will then only serve as pivot points.

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I'm having trouble starting the car, the carb and ignition needed refurbishing. Now the fuel filter (glass Carter bowl type right before the stromberg) is a mess too. Where can I buy a filter & gasket for it?

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Bob's , Cars  or Ebay   just bought  two  filters  for my 41 and 54 Buick   

 

:rolleyes: .   does the car start hard when it is cold  or Hot ?   Might be a problem with  the fuel pump  ...  When there is a spark usually a Buick will start   ..

 

take care !

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I couldn't find it on bob's site. You bought the filter for the original filter bowl?

I've got the original and electric pump, fuel gets in the bowl. The carb was gued up, I refurbished it (already had the kit on the shelf luckily, ethanol resistant too). The original filter bowl is only glass. I already removed the failing gasket; it was crumbling on the inside. The bowl was nasty dirty and I don't know if there's another filter down the line right now. On brake cleaner it ran, on carb alone it wouldn't. I did fill the tank a bit more but most of the gas is at least a year old… I put a bit Aspen 4 in the tank.

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