Wilf Sedanet

1949 Buick Super Sedanet (56S)

Recommended Posts

Looks good!  ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lately driving became more and more noisy. The sound is a bit like a cardboard cutout clipped to your bike, rattling on your wheel spokes. The rumbling part of that sound, not the high pitched part. 

 

It it sounds as if it is coming from the tranny, or at the back of the engine. It doesn't seem to go away in N but I only tried to put it in N a split second while driving since the blocking pin from P already starts to tick whilst trying to go from D to N while coasting. 

 

I made a video with the sound as the focal point. The speedometer is also in the picture. Good to know beforehand: the MPH are wrong. In reality this is the case (first number is speedo, second is real speed):

 

30 = 20

40 = 30

50 = 40

65 = 50

75 = 55

80 = 60 

 

 

Does anyone recognize the sound and can lead me to the solution? Should I worry much?

 

The tranny is full of ATF and doesn't leak. 

Edited by Wilf Sedanet (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ben, thank you for your advice. Do you reckon that could make this horrible loud noise? I will try that next time I get it out of storage. I already have a new cable laying around, maybe I should finally install it already. 

 

By the way, I failed to mention that the sound of the rumble on the video can only be heard when listening with good ear phones or a full range stereo as it is a looooow rumbling sound (one feels the vibration), so playing it on a phone or laptop with built-in speakers may probably make people go: "So… what is wrong exactly?" :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That rumbling noise sounds like the rear end.  Remember you said it was dry and making a scraping sound before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Smart thinking there, thank you! 

 

While this low rumbling sounds and feels much more coming from right next to (and a bit in front of) my right leg and I can also feel it a bit in my steering wheel, that could be very misleading because of how the torque tube is coupled to the tranny; all those vibrations can easily travel 'upstream' into the Dynaflow. I completely overlooked that point myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 27-4-2017 at 5:16 AM, Wheelnut said:

That rumbling noise sounds like the rear end.  Remember you said it was dry and making a scraping sound before.

 

We finally came round to checking it all. Your suspicion was certainly right but it wasn’t the only thing wrong: the Dynaflow wasn’t properly adjusted on the inside. After adjustment and test driving the extreme shake and shudder was gone but the noise stayed. So we went back and again removed the axle and looked inside. 

 

Inside the axle the bearings were stuck and the ring and pinion have battle scars…

 

So now I have to try and find a new axle or ring and pinion. At Bob’s Automobilia there is a set for 40-48 series 50 but not for 49 series 50. It will be a tough find I fear…

 

Some pics of the worn pieces:

60C9FBD2-EE7E-460A-96BA-1C7A83381297.jpeg

0C6524B2-FCF3-4BAD-AFFE-3C9CB4E7C4B6.jpeg

9E49B5CB-E947-4481-B982-8116A305E4FC.jpeg

84EA6BA1-56E1-429B-AACC-D3F9879FA605.jpeg

F6B36889-6938-4E23-BF94-E148E5BDC8F5.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope the transplantation will commence next week. In the meantime I’m trying to do some small side projects. 

 

Besides a diy radio rebuild (to modern class D and a diy sub in the trunk - no bone shaking bass just a small extra to make the double bass intelligible) and the temp gauge project (on hold right now) I needed to tackle the rusted out reverse lights. 

 

I am by no means a restaurateur and since I have no time for patience it will not be a sight for connoisseurs. I have dunked the housings in rust remover multiple times and managed to disassemble the internal housing as well. After that a lot of filing and sanding ensued and even some soldering and painting. I had some hammerite grey laying around so grey it is, for now at least (had to stop the rust process).

 

future plan is making a diy led for it. Why diy? Because I dislike multiple leds and white colors. I want it to look as original as I can with the added benefit of led longevity, safety and ease. A COB led of 3000k will be the goal. I will make a few installation changes; extra fuses and a custom resistor changing thingy (maybe those inline glass fuse holders) so I can run the led with 6 volt now and 12 volt if I ever switch over in the future. 

 

Please note: the HG rust remover is quite dangerous. Although it smells like cola it’s a bit more dangerous. Please wear protective goggles and gloves when using this stuff.

2700CB96-1D7D-4FD5-8191-FA28DD20C640.jpeg

04A6DCD0-D8DF-466F-84B5-75B268267252.jpeg

1047A116-1D5B-4231-82FD-163BE1E2928D.jpeg

3D897FCA-8275-4CAA-9BBF-847FDD62AF00.jpeg

F7F9A698-A943-44DD-B11B-D16A678E338D.jpeg

5EDFDC36-C524-4454-B86A-D315CCD20BA4.jpeg

33F275C8-9BBC-45E9-BCA0-CF4C3C9AF94E.jpeg

DFA5EA69-18C2-488B-95E9-E6F55B780DE4.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Read your post a long time ago, now with your update I rechecked it again.  I love your car!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wilf, though these are not too common, the axle parts from 1940 to '55 will interchange, so you don't need one from a '49. You would likely want one with the similar, or even taller ratio, so a '49 to '55 Dynaflow car might work well for you.

Hope this helps you a bit.

Keith

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually I’ve bought one already from a very nice and trustworthy gentleman on this forum and he shipped it in a very well built case. It arrived here very fast. The reason I did not share this yet is because my buddy who owns a garage did not think it would be here so fast so there’s another car on the lift. As soon as that one is finished we will start on mine and I will share the pictures. 

 

What I have bought is a complete third member from a 1950 Buick Special with Dynaflow. It has a more relaxed ratio of 1:3.6 in stead of 1:4.45. This will make driving on our highways much better (from 4000 to almost 3000 RPM).

 

Previously I have refurbished a speedometer because mine was jammed. That new one was way off; when I drove 60 MPH it told me I was doing 80 MPH. That’s a difference of 1:1.33 and going from 1:4.45 to 1:3.6 is a difference of 1:1.25 so the speedometer probably came out of a Buick with a 1:3.4 ratio, or it came out of a 3.6 as 8% deviation has been in use for liability issues for a long time. After the swap when I drive 60 the speedometer will tell me I’m doing around 64. Sounds perfect!

 

I hope this isn’t too mathy :D 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Starting on the axle. Lots of cleaning work. A lot of grease and grime. If on Monday we get everything done we will go ahead with the third member swap.

CBE7AF48-1DCA-4602-B8E1-E2844497713A.jpeg

360808B1-1979-4D38-88CE-4E96FE422958.jpeg

2999219E-4D41-4E60-AED0-F88900E22D5D.jpeg

5A3100F4-D957-4C7B-8AD1-BE32C463A35B.jpeg

FC5302D0-FF16-4F1C-A884-11B0224A5A62.jpeg

7309EE4D-32C5-4AF2-BE01-42A54C8F5B58.jpeg

CFE55527-96CC-4FA5-B969-BC212224FA47.jpeg

33C31078-50B8-415F-9C2E-248D73BE63C5.jpeg

84A0CD13-C8B0-43B0-A5B5-1B05045A5DF3.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tomorrow work continues on cleaning the axle housings and getting ready to assemble everything again. 

 

At home I have been busy thinking out the radio project and checking how the cleaned up backup lights will look and fit. I am very happy how the glass cleaned up (actually one is NOS, the other is original).

 

Also I was hoping to use the original volume knob for the new amplifier but my pricey Fluke multimeter finds the resistance off the charts quite fast; it starts at 80 Ohms, a slight turn (a few degrees) goes to 900 Ohm, then in to kOhm and then all the rest is OL (open lead) so resistance is off the charts. Both potmeters have this. I don’t know if this is age or the completely different voltages and resistance tube amps have. The on/off switch part works like a charm though. 

 

Disclaimer / reminder: I did not ruin my own original non functioning radio. That one is still in tact sitting at home. The potmeter and radio housing / parts were bought on eBay. That was a gutted radio for sale for 5 bucks. 

 

 

75B2C526-89AA-4AA9-8213-ECB101A339BC.jpeg

6C9C8D9C-CB65-427E-B062-1984793D29A4.jpeg

Edited by Wilf Sedanet (see edit history)
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today was quite fruitful. I’ve cleaned the torque tube housing further, degreased it and gave it some paint. Same for the brake … uh … hats? :D 

 

My buddy tried to make the lock work again in the left door but a previous owner did some botch work on the latch mechanism. There was some strange welding going on and there is no locking action (the lock and knob does go down with the key but the door handle opens the door even if it is locked). 

 

He also set the door straight (it was sagging a bit) so it slams shut like a safe again. Very nice!

 

 

E86A521C-21A7-40FC-B72E-3E665567C311.jpeg

F74EE928-8F3B-4E64-B5F1-BEF11A21959E.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wilf, great job on the repair of your back-up lights, and the prepping of the rear-end parts for assembly. I`m watching your progress.  Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Tom!

 

By by the way, I forgot to mention: My mechanic buddy has checked the third member, cleaned it (little work as it was pretty clean), changed out the bearings and put it back together. I took days off last Friday and Monday to help with cleaning and painting which gave him 2 days of extra time. He changed out the wheel bearings, races, brake parts and expects the car ready to be driven again by the end of the week! :D:D:D 

 

I have been smiling every day since the third member had been shipped over and now I have worked on the car so extensively these last days I really feel so connected with it and am really happy that it is all coming together so fast and easy. Some credit where credit is due: Bob’s Automobilia for being as close to a one stop shop as can be and pont35cpe Tom for the third member and axles (which we are also using as they belong together). Tom, I really cannot thank you enough for your willingness to help out a fellow Buick owner by shipping the parts to me, fast and in a well built crate. My mechanic was also pleased to see the well thought of crate and the perfectly useable parts. 

 

I hope I can test drive it this weekend without salt on the roads as it is getting colder. My mechanic did say I need to take it out first and drive it before we take on new projects like changing out all wiring (I have a painless kit waiting to be installed) and some small pet peeves (antenna, interior leak around wipers, temp gauge, lock, front seat is too high et cetera). First: drive it and get the feeling of it again. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay so I’m amazingly excited right now! Sorry for the lack of pictures but the Buick was finished today and driving it make me forget everything around me :P 

 

Wheel bearings, brakes and the rear end were replaced and the driving experience was unlike I’ve felt before. Smooth, quiet and with a correct speedometer. It drove 80 MPH effortlessly. I didn’t even notice it that I went so fast. 

 

Again many thanks to Tom for shipping an excellent third member and axles. The new gear ratio is really a blessing, it’s really a blessing and I wouldn’t trade it back for the world. The comfort and silence (low revs) are ideal, perfect for European cruising. 

 

In short: YES!!! :D:D:D 

 

One small detail that may be noticed by the Buick connoisseur: my mechanic couldn’t find and remember how the back plate should be installed. So maybe the fill plug is not on the right spot. IIRC it should be in the middle, lower, in stead of off center…?

05D46470-536B-48F5-A76E-5548EBF15206.jpeg

E0580D93-30F3-423A-B8EA-3A5BFDA8024D.jpeg

C24A1543-112A-426E-A9D0-F5BDA7226D1B.jpeg

F775AB3B-6ED5-4825-A8A7-6083A54B6ECC.jpeg

128D3C4A-7699-4D6C-8C20-1EB84889854C.jpeg

3FC1CD4C-FB20-4CF5-A086-98656EA3F039.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congrats Wilf, I can almost see your big grin reflecting in the rear view mirror. Most back covers have a raised portion that lines up with the ring gear, I see yours is smooth. Actually you are one bolt off, cover needs to be moved clockwise one bolt, then oil level will be to bottom of hole. If you drive down a rough road and hear a sound like the ringing of a bell, it will be your emergency brake cable hitting the torque tube(the U-shaped piece of metal).  By the way great leather jacket with the picture of your Buick on the back..   Tom

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tom, I will let my mechanic know about the back plate. I will bring the Buick round after the first 100 miles to check nuts & bolts. On the other hand it doesn’t bother me a lot right now. 

 

I’m not sure what material was used for the brake lines. My previous mechanic was a big fan of cunifer but these were placed by my current mechanic. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Glad that it all turned out so well for you. After having my crown gears swapped out for the taller ones earlier this year, its' an upgrade that I would recommend to anyone who wants to drive their car on the highway much.

 Keith

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not only that, the engine will last longer over the whole board. Also driving becomes that more smooth and luxurious. These are no muscle cars after all. 

 

When we ride out (as in the top post pictures on this page) we usually drive to meetings that are between 20 and 70 miles away, mostly highway miles. We tend to cruise around 60 MPH but it’s nice to have some top end still left. With the previous gear ratio the engine was revving as if it was doing 80 MPH when in fact we were going 60 so that was no fun at all. 

 

(Bonus: a short film and picture of how we ride out to shows in The Netherlands)

7B2A7599-6F6C-4AA4-83C3-77C1E9A27678.jpeg

0777DB9E-4233-4F35-A6BC-078EEEB57DDC.MOV

Edited by Wilf Sedanet (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now