Brake Parts--Kanter vs. Bob's vs. Fusick

[beerczar1976]

I'm thinking of re-doing my brakes in the spring. Not sure if I need new hard lines yet, but I will probably replace the wheel cylinders (left rear I'm pretty positive is leaking), shoes, hardware, maybe the master cylinder, hoses, etc. I haven't done a full inspection as to what's needed yet (maybe it's none of the above, could just need a good bleeding and tightening of components). With that being said...

Here's the question. Kanter sells a deluxe rebuild kit for $425 that includes all of the above parts. Bob's and Fusick sell the same parts separately for at least $100 in total more. I'm sure CARS probably does too. Anyone have preference of vendor? Quality any different? Is one selling new vs. rebuilt? I'd bound to guess all are rebuilds with the exception of maybe the wheel cylinders. I'm thinking NOS on some of these components (with the exception of maybe drums) in this particular case is not the way to go.

Maybe I'll luck out and need none of the parts, but it's good to know if I'm getting quality for what I'm paying for. I know I already have to buy a full door perimeter weatherstrip kit. Kanter is the only one who appears to have a kit for a '50 41D.

[Bhigdog]

Before you pony up your hard earned bucks to a specialty retailer check with a GOOD NAPA parts store, you may be surprised at what's available and the price. As for the sellers you've mentioned I've gotten nothing but quality repro parts from Fusick. Can't say the same for a couple of the others, especially one of them..............Bob

[49_buick_super]

...I know I already have to buy a full door perimeter weatherstrip kit. Kanter is the only one who appears to have a kit for a '50 41D.

Kanter uses Steele for their weatherstrip and seal kits.

Dan

[Pete Phillips]

Bob Beck is right. Brake parts don't change very much from year to year, and you will be amazed at what is still available or what can be ordered overnight from your local auto parts stores. About the only brake parts I have not been able to get locally are brake shoes for 1950s and earlier Buicks. Wheel cylinders and rebuild kits and all of the assorted hardware are usually available locally for Buicks back into the 1940s and late 1930s.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

[D Yaros]

I will 3rd the NAPA suggestion. The advantages are:

No, or short, wait.

Less expensive

You know what you are getting

WORD OF CAUTION -

Resto shop working on my '55 Cad brakes ordered wheel cylinders from OPGI. The country of origin for the wheel cylinders turned out to be China!

[old-tank]

Rockauto will have most of what you need and the best prices. Take the shoes to your local brake/clutch rebuilder and specify linings that will easily stop a 2-ton Buick. Use only new wheel cylinders (don't rebuild) and resleaved master cylinders.

Willie

[pont35cpe]

Rockauto will have most of what you need and the best prices. Take the shoes to your local brake/clutch rebuilder and specify linings that will easily stop a 2-ton Buick. Use only new wheel cylinders (don't rebuild) and resleaved master cylinders.

Willie

I agree with Willie on the brake shoes. I bought a set(bonded) out of New Jersey and the first time I hit the brakes the lining fell off. Beware.. there`s a lot of China crap out there, and the seller doesn`t state country of origin. Your life could depend on what you buy now a days.. Tom

[Lapham3]

I've been using Rockauto when possible for some time with good pricing and short delivery time-Dan Mpls. Mn.

[60FlatTop]

I like Rock Auto because they list the manufacturer name and I can chose.

When you check your existing wheel cylinders internally you will find pitting on the bottom of the bore, deepest in the center and spreading outward. Sometime a new set of shoes will be installed and adjusting them pushes the rubber cup lips into the pitted areas. That's when the guys says "I just put new brakes on and they are covered with brake fluid." Because the pitting has been going on for 50 years it usually won't hone out.

My Riviera and my Electra have new wheel cylinders and both have sleeved master cylinders. The Riviera actually has an NOS master cylinder that I had sleeved before using.

I flush my brake system annually to get moisture laden fluid out of the system (no silicone). The bleeder area of wheel cylinders is where the water collects. Flushing takes away the potential for pitting your new parts. I sleeved the master cylinders because they are hard to bleed thoroughly, although the fluid flush pushes a lot out.

Prior to flushing I remove last year's fluid from the reservoir with and old turkey baster and fill it with fresh fluid.

Bernie

[DonMicheletti]

I'm a believer in slicone fluid. The problem with it though is that everything has to be clean, in excellent condition or you will have leaks. I have use it in all my hydraulic brake cars for over 30 years and never had a problem - and havnt had to flush. I feel the alcohol based fluid is a giant PITA in the rarely used old cars.

[Guest 53 Roady]

Anything to get away from dot 3. This month's Classic Car has an article (see p. 37) which attributes the scarcity of the big C bodied GMs from the early 50s to the use of brake fluid in the windows. Besides rusting the doors out, when no one wanted to make the window work in a 5 year old car the hot rodders were salivating to get the mill. I used dot 5 for a decade in my 57 Olds with no problem. When I went to discs on the front I went back to dot 3. I regret that now and expect to flush and switch in the spring. I got NAPA cylinders for the 53 Buick we just received from my dear brother. They were about $30 . Just about anything cast iron is now from China. They work fine. The NAPA shoes were actually too big to fit in the drums which I believe may have been NOS in 1990. I found a clutch rebuilder who still did brake shoes. They relined my shoes and arced (ground) them to fit the drums. I will be using Dexron in the Buick windows as recommended by Hydro-E-Lectric and several of you folks.

[beerczar1976]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'm pulling the trigger on new wheel cylinders (all 4 wheels) left rear is leaking for sure, new hoses, and a new brake light switch from Rock Auto. They were quite a bit cheaper, even compared to NAPA. I'll get Raybestos components unless I hear from you guys that other brands are better. Since my current brakes aren't holding pressure right now, the brake light issue may go away once new cylinders are put in and the lines bled, but for $5-$6, I'll have an extra. I'll have someone look at my master cylinder, shoes and drums before I do anything on those. When I did have brake pressure, as minimal as it was, the car was stopping, so the MC and shoes/drums might still be good. I'll also have them look at the hard lines. Will either make myself, or order some from Inline Tube which didn't seem all that expensive, though I've heard mixed results on the correct lengths and bends from them on this forum from time to time. Any other thoughts? Since mine's a '50 I made sure to verify my frame number as I know Buick changed the rear wheel cylinders mid-production to a different inlet size used onward thru 54.

[Eric W]

I just got a new-production master for the '51 from CARS, inc. via their eBay sales. They were listing these for ~$50 off catalog price (lower cost than rebuild by xyz) on eBay only. Shipping was ~1 week. Whoever is running their eBay sales is right on top of getting things shipped. I just moved the studs over from the original cylinder yesterday, and I still need to do the wheel cylinders, so can't comment on performance, but it's a new part, fit right in, and was lower cost than a refurb'd/sleeved cylinder. As far as I could tell, this part isn't available via NAPA/Rockauto.

[old-tank]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'm pulling the trigger on new wheel cylinders (all 4 wheels) left rear is leaking for sure, new hoses, and a new brake light switch from Rock Auto. They were quite a bit cheaper, even compared to NAPA. I'll get Raybestos components unless I hear from you guys that other brands are better. Since my current brakes aren't holding pressure right now, the brake light issue may go away once new cylinders are put in and the lines bled, but for $5-$6, I'll have an extra. I'll have someone look at my master cylinder, shoes and drums before I do anything on those. When I did have brake pressure, as minimal as it was, the car was stopping, so the MC and shoes/drums might still be good. I'll also have them look at the hard lines. Will either make myself, or order some from Inline Tube which didn't seem all that expensive, though I've heard mixed results on the correct lengths and bends from them on this forum from time to time. Any other thoughts? Since mine's a '50 I made sure to verify my frame number as I know Buick changed the rear wheel cylinders mid-production to a different inlet size used onward thru 54.

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/brakes-ii-227946.html

This is my experience with Raybestos shoes. Go to a brake/clutch rebuilder and have them rivet on shoes with the performance that you specify. They can also turn the drums and arc the shoes. The ones I had installed have performed well, and even though I was warned of short life, I see no significant wear after 25,000 miles.

"Your can't run fast enough to give another set of Raybestos shoes"

Willie