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Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. Received a couple of gift certificates to the Model A Store. Ordered a few things: new sealed water pump, speedo glass & seal, LED tail light bulbs, door latch striker plate, horn gaskets, safety fuse, horn data plate, windshield washers, LED headlight bulbs. They didn't have the LED headlight bulbs, so need to try that again sometime. Got the LED tail light bulbs installed - much brighter, and you can see the LED elements when it's on, so it doesn't look stock. But I'll use this car for evening cruise nights, so visibility is more important to me than originality in the light bulbs, and t
  2. Found a couple of photos of the white '93.
  3. Yes, this is the 3rd one for me. I don't recall the exact package numbers, but I my first one was a white '93 with the "big block" AM/FM/CD/Cass head unit. I did a lot of bad things to that car - changed wheels, tires, sway bars - really screwed up the handling. And a supercharger, which I took to the point where it exceeded the max fuel flow capacity, burned & cracked off a couple of valves, and drove home about 50mi on 2 cylinders, balancing between going fast enough not to get run over, and slow enough not to over heat. Yes, that was bad. Pulled the supercharger & head, disassembled
  4. Decided to diagnose the horn. Wires in the steering column seem to be doing what they're supposed to. Then when I went to look at the wires out the bottom of the horn, one came out. So it's probably dead there. Got the horn off & wires disconnected from the car, then powered using a screwdriver to jump over to the contact on the horn motor. Motor is good & horn makes noise, so it should be ok with fresh wire soldered to the contact. Flaked off the loose paint, scotchbrited & shot w/ some rattle can Rustoleum. Need to order the gaskets, as the paper that was in there crumbled when I
  5. Rebuilt the fuel gauge yesterday. It had a bunch of goop sealer all around the gauge-to-tank interface. Turns out, they had the cork on the wrong side of the glass, so it was probably a big leak problem. I haven't refilled it up past the glass yet, but hopefully cleaning off the surfaces & getting the parts in the correct order will have it seal like it's supposed to. Nice to replace the "indicator line" washer as well. Before photo shows what it looks like when it's got a soggy, sunken cork for a float. The new float is some sort of synthetic - supposed to be able to withstand the garbage
  6. Thanks Keith - I'll take a look. Being LED, the tail lights don't draw much current at all. Here's another photo showing the difference on the before/after on the roof. Multi stage process - scrub with soapy water using a brush, small area at a time. Wipe off the loosened dirt & water for each small area with a damp cloth. After scrubbing one half of the roof this way, then go back, small area at a time with Meguiar's "ultimate black" rubber/vinyl restoration product. Drop some on the surface, spread it out by hand (maybe 6" x 12" at a time), work it into the surface with a stiff brush, th
  7. Added message to catch a couple more photos. Working from a different photo editing app - need to work out how to compress the files more.
  8. Received the Brakelighter today and installed it. It's brighter than I expected. Needed to pull the rear seat to run the wire behind the seat back, and I used an existing small opening in the floor to get the wires out. Modified a ring terminal (drilled hole larger) to use one of the bumper bracket bolts for ground, and tapped onto the brake light wire. Got lucky there - completely expected to tap onto the running light wire, then have to do it over. Because when there's 2 wires, you always tap onto the wrong one first. Tried to ID by color - I could see under the tail light bracke
  9. Thanks Carl! I found this searching for 6v CHMSL: https://www.brakelighter.com/category-s/100.htm Looks very similar to Mac's, slightly lower price, though shipping options & ordering other things may make one or the other vendor more cost effective.
  10. Checked for the hand crank, as there were a couple of tools under the back seat. Only jack, jack handle, and a couple of wheel wrenches. Took it out just now for ~10 miles to get good and warmed up. Shut down in back in the garage. Waited a minute. Ignition, gas valve on, levers up, touch starter - good start. Shut down & waited another minute. Same thing - very quick start. To be more like a fuel stop, let it continue to heat soak & went back out a couple of minutes later - same thing. Key difference - don't touch the choke/mixture knob. When it's warmed up / hot - that knob doesn't n
  11. Studebaker's still in good shape. Earlier this year, I took on a complete re-wire. Got that done, and last thing left was replacing a defroster hose under the dash because it fell off in the rewire and was too dried up / cracked to go back. Finally got some hose a couple of weeks ago and made that fix. That allowed the radio to go back in, and finally the blank-off gauge on the right side of the cluster (the one that could be a factory-option clock) to finish off the dash. Adventures with Ford today - called the DMV, and they handled the title transfer & new plate completely on
  12. Thanks for the comments. Of all the years, this was busy - found another place with enough land for a separate garage. Got through the purchase process, moving & selling of the other place, then the water heater failed & flooded the garage, damaging some of the walls. Got through the restoration & insurance process with that - took about a month. Also replaced the dishwasher. A big part of moving was to get a place with space for a built-in pool in the backyard (we had one of those above-ground / temporary pools at the other place). Been working with pool companies for about 4 mont
  13. Always thought I might have a Model A, but didn't think it would be original. I found one on c-list about a month ago, only ~500 miles away, done as a street rod. Looked pretty neat, so I watched the price in the ad get lower each week and finally called the guy. Turns out it was built about 30 years ago, and soon after sold to someone who liked the street rod look but didn't know anything about taking care of a car, then 5 years ago bought by this seller. He'd fixed a lot of things that were wrong - complete re-wire among other things. But he didn't want to move at all on price, because he'd
  14. Watched about 2 hours of Miata videos yesterday - a series about building one up for track use. Took some notes. One thing they did which seemed to make a difference for them was to rebuild the shifter. The documents with my car indicate that the transmission was changed out at some point, but the vinyl shift boot is cracked. So I figured this is one not-too-extensive thing I should look into. I ordered the kit, which includes the boot on the transmission and the boot on the floor. They also replace the nylon shifter bottom bushing with a brass part. The shifting, particularly to first & r
  15. Ok, it's all back to normal now. Had an unbiased outside observer help with some things this morning. He had a portable 12V jump start pack & we touched that to a couple of things. Everything worked then. So charge the battery! I didn't suspect that because I've had this battery about a month, and the previous (unknown vintage, but fairly recent) battery would make many more starts than this. I knew there was a hint in my first description of the problem - press start button, starter just starts, then stops = charge the battery! I might just take this ba
  16. It's positive ground. To help try to keep it straight, someone along the way painted the ground strap red and the battery cable to the solenoid green. It's hooked up right - drove it many hundreds of miles like this, until it effectively "passed away" and decided it's not moving another inch with what's under the hood. When I bought it (about 3 years ago), the generator had lost its polarity or whatever it is. I looked that up and touched the wire from whatever to whatever, and the generator worked just fine. Right now, the generator isn't even part of it. The wire out from the vol
  17. It is. Measures about 6.35 - 6.42 V at the battery, and again at the end of the (new) wires that I connect to it. The connection is like this: Battery to solenoid to new wiring to leads through firewall to ammeter. Solenoid is only holding the battery cable to the wire that goes through the firewall - the other 2 terminals of the solenoid are not connected to anything. Bypassed the ammeter (in case it's contributing), and connected that lead direct to the downstream side of the ammeter. This goes to 4 things: ignition switch, headlight switch, horn, and I'll call it Aux. Aux goes to brake ligh
  18. I didn't write anything following because it's been too frustrating. After fixing the wiper wire, I took the car out, drove around some, and everything was working (even with the speedometer and its 4 light bulbs out). Parked in the driveway, washed the tires. Then started it and pulled it in. Next day, tried to start again, starter cranked for about a second then stopped. Since then, everything electrical in the car has been hard dead. I mean EVERYTHING. First thing I pulled the starter lead off the solenoid in case the starter's shorted or something - nothing from the starter is feeding back
  19. The hose itself is too dried up - it has no give to go back over the metal tubes. Just need a new piece of hose.
  20. No, and I'd rather not. Studebaker Int'l does sell modern electronic replacements that look like the original, if it comes to that. I did replace the wiper wiring today. That started with re-discovering the other 2 fasteners that secure the radio, and getting the radio out of the way. It has to be out to access the interior side of the wiper motor mounting fasteners, to disconnect the wiper linkage from the wiper motor, and to access the wiper on/off switch. I think that the wiper wiring was the source of the intermittent short, as I found several spots of bare conductor / crumbled
  21. Tried to start again, and as soon as I hit the starter button, it didn't go. Spent the weekend taking things apart. Figured maybe the starter had died - this was a used one of unknown history. Pulled the starter out. Tried to put in the rebuilt one, but the drive gear doesn't push back enough into the housing. I think the starter rebuilder was trying to do me a favor by replacing that gear, but it's now the wrong one. It clearly does not push back enough to clear the engine's flywheel teeth. That was a hassle to get up in there, as the V8 starter is quite a bit longer than the 6-cylinder one.
  22. Thanks - got the terminal for the horn lead installed, found the needed under-dash bulb in the dome light at the back of the roof (didn't replace that wire through the headliner anyway), got the speedometer and blank gauge reinstalled, and installed the heater switch. Had to make up 2 leads for that one. Pulled tools out from all over everywhere & vacuumed. Drove it around - seems to be all good. Also need to try at night to see how the lights look. Photos - tools needed; dash reassembled.
  23. Got the horns as far as I could. Pulled the radiator shroud to solder new leads to the horns themselves - the part of the horn leads outside of the shroud was crumbled away and exposed conductor. Need another trip to the store for a blade terminal to finish them. Got the license plate light working. Pulled the trunk emblem / license plate holder off - this is the only way to access the bulb! I thought it was burned out, but I just couldn't see it in the daytime. Also took the opportunity to clean the sandy dust out from inside of the license light lens - that was blocking a lot of the light fr
  24. Frustration continues. Seems like it wasn't the battery. Still doing the works a little, then dead. Traced it to the ignition key switch. Got another one from the local store. Doesn't look so good compared with stock, but it's easy to change out if I find another stock one or figure out how to fix the one I have. Figured out the turn signals. BIG frustration on that one. 8 wires from the turn signal harness. What are they for? They look more recent than the rest of the car, so this harness must have been changed at some point. 2 of the wires were cut shorter like they're not used /
  25. Very frustrating afternoon. It would power for a couple of seconds, then all would go dead. What is it? Finally thought it might be the battery letting me down. Got another battery. From there, it was quick to get the front marker lights, high- and low-beam headlights, horn, ignition, and started it briefly - then remembered the oil pressure gauge (with a live oil pipe) wasn't connected. Dribbled some oil onto the floor. Ran the harness to the rear - around the brake master, connected brake light switch, back along the frame to the gas tank lead, over top of the frame, and out just in front of
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