Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. Finished replacing the rear of the brake system. First photo is checking the length of the hose with the rear axle hanging free. The catalog listed a 2" shorter hose for this, and when I had that one installed, the axle would hang from the hose - no good. The hose part number for the fronts is 2" longer, so that's what I got. Same hose in all 3 places. Next 3 photos are the new tubes on the axle. Last photo is the tube along the frame. I short-cutted the rear corner to give a little more length up at the front - turned out to be too much, so I ended up putting a "V" bend in the front tube. Got this pair of tubes into the factory frame clips. Put the system back together, bled it, and did first drives today (Sep 16)! So about 7 weeks to get to this point. Still things to do before I'll take it out of the neighborhood, but at least I can move it out of the garage to sweep out under. It goes pretty well - quicker than the '51 Buick. The overdrive works, though it's on a manual switch on the shifter and not the automated factory setup. Those front brakes actually work pretty well - no bad noises and reasonable stopping power.
  2. Made a 2nd try on the left side tube in the last photo above - realized there needs to be a jog in the line to clear the bump stop. Got a replacement axle tee fitting from Merle's - they're great for parts for older cars. $7.59 incl tax, so not worth mail ordering from anyone. Last photo (below) - 2nd try at that left side brake tube with a jog to clear the bump stop. Also got the right side line secured to the wheel cylinder, the axle clamp (just inboard of the suspension spring), and the differential cover clamp. Hardly any time to work on it because of other things going on, but it will get there.
  3. Thanks Chris. I looked at the Classic Tubes - fairly expensive compared with bend-your-own from the local parts store. In the last week, I picked up a couple of Studebaker history books from a local club member who's reducing his collection. Also got the '52 Commander owner's manual (so I can see what controls are supposed to be there and how they work), the '52 product line marketing brochure, and the '52 "Inside Facts for Studebaker Salesmen" which was by far the most expensive, but probably the most rare of the bunch. Pulled the rear brake lines - along the frame and along the axle. The ones along the axle were crushed in 2 places on each side, as though maybe links of chain had held the car down (or dragged it) at some point. That would explain no fluid at the wheel cylinders. I'm bending up my own tubes to replace these. $28 so far. So for about $6-8 per tube, I can afford a couple of do-overs if needed from the local store. Got the rear axle tubes about bent up, but I'll need the joiner fitting that connects the 2 tubes to the hose. The one from the car has made itself one with the 2 tubes & hose (for a couple $, not worth extraordinary efforts to save it). Like the other items in the system so far, this part is common with many years of Jeep, about $5 online.
  4. I don't see leak from the lines, but yes, I reached that same conclusion that I'll change those out. Inline Tube has a set that's labeled for a '50 Champion that used the same frame & brake tube routing as far as I can tell. I did buy a tube from them once before, and I recall that shipping was nearly as much as the tube since they're stuck shipping a huge box... And for longer tubes they bend them approximately in half around a large radius - for the user to straighten. But the set is all 6 tubes for the car at the correct length with end fittings already installed. Anyway, something I could accomplish - replace the glove box. The glove box that was in the car had carpet glued inside and was almost falling out of the dash anyway. It fell apart when I removed it. I got the new one in through the glove box door opening with some flexing and taking the dash loose on the right side. There wasn't any way to bring it up from the bottom with that defroster core in place. I removed the ash tray bracket, the outside vent bracket, and 4 fasteners on the right end of the dash that hold the dash to the body. Between the flex in the glove box and the flex in the dash it was enough to work the box back behind the dash flanges.
  5. Thanks JW - I've been studying the hub installation on the Studebaker forums - they caution about over torque, and the Studebaker torque is less than what you reference for Packard. I expect to redo both sides - need to replace the parking brake cable & there were incorrect shoe return springs on the left side. Anyway, some updates over the past week - got the '57 front brakes installed, including new wheel cylinders & hoses. Put an initial adjustment on all 4 brakes. This morning, got to the point of bleeding the system, and the (new) master cylinder leaks. Compared with the Buicks, this is low cost enough to just try another one after a little more looking to confirm it's the cylinder & not the fittings on the outlet or something. Got the parking brake clip painted & installed - definitely a necessary part to allow the cable to get tight enough to act on the brakes. Got a couple of unrelated parts from the nearby Studebaker parts specialists including reflectors for the tail light assemblies. Got those installed. Also replaced LH tail lens - it was cracked in multiple pieces when I pulled the housing off to get to the reflector. After the brake bleed fail, ran the engine for a few minutes to be reminded that this car is really pretty close to driving - a LOT closer than the last 2 vintage car projects I worked on. (One took a year before driving, the other one I owned for over 3 years and it only drove around the block a couple of times.)
  6. Lot of little things this weekend. That last photo was just the drum on the spindle - no brake inside. Temporarily bolted the "loaded" backing plates to the spindles to disassemble the brakes. Put all the small parts in Evap-o-rust to clean them up. Cleaned the backing plates. Sorry, no before photos, but they were caked with mud. Got the correct '54-later wheel cylinders installed in the rear brakes. Got the rear drums put back on. Tightened the brakes with the adjusters to hold the drums from rotating while torqueing the nuts that hold the drums on. So the rears should be ready for bleed & adjust. Got new front wheel cylinders ordered. Took the drums to a local chain brake shop. They couldn't comment whether they could turn them or not because they couldn't find a limit - too early for the limit to be stamped on the outside, and their computer records didn't go back that far. From the SDC forum, it looks like the limit is 11.090". The parking brake clip that goes at the master cylinder is in the Evap-o-rust now.
  7. I'm in Tucson. '57 brake looks like it means business by comparison...
  8. A '57 Silver Hawk V8 gave up its brakes today. It had already had the roof cut off, engine removed, interior stripped, etc... Finned drums pretty cool - too bad these get covered up. Also picked up the parking brake cable clip that's missing from my master cylinder installation photo and 1 more 15" rim for the spare (there was a 14" in there with no tire when I got the car). Also got through DMV for new title & plate.
  9. Thanks Paul - what you describe is in line with what I was thinking. I did get the '52 shop manual, one of the first things I bought. But as you point out, the brakes I've got don't match what's in the '52 book... Yes, I figured the '52 wheel cyl's that I got won't work with the rear brakes - just wanted to ID which ones they are to get the correct cylinders. Yes, I'll be looking for the later brakes for the front to keep the front/rear balance correct.
  10. Thanks - what year / year range of brake is in your photo? There don't appear to be any pushrods on the wheel cylinder on the brake in my photo, but they're in there. I bought the wheel cylinders for '52, and the push rods are really short. The wheel cylinder that I took off had longer pushrods. Yes the parking brake cable is spliced, but there's an issue farther forward with that cable that I haven't figured out yet. I think it's routed on the wrong side of the exhaust, so it hits the exhaust. I haven't found a diagram that shows the cable relative to the exhaust, so I'll be looking for photos of the bottom side of the car. There's also a non-stock left-side exhaust on my car (it's a completely split exhaust) that may also interfere with the brake cable. The ID of the brake drum (surface the shoes run on) is 10".
  11. Here's some photos. Rear brake, front brake, tail light housings with fried reflectors, chip out showing several paint jobs...
  12. Was looking through the shop manual to understand what self-adjusting parts are missing from the front brakes. In the same section, there are photos of rear brakes with self adjusters. Checked the spec's on the car - front brakes, 11", rear brakes 9". I'm thinking the rear brakes on the floor under the car now are about the same size as the fronts. They didn't have self-adjusters, they have the "star wheel" adjusters that I backed off as part of getting the drums off. I haven't worked on Studebaker before, so I didn't think anything of fronts with self-adjusters and rear with manual, but I measured the rears this morning - 11". So they're later. The wheel cylinders that I got ('52) didn't look right either - they fit, but the push rods out of the cylinders looked too short. So I'm concluding this car already has later rear brakes. Will check around to see if I can come up with some later front brakes to match the rears. I pulled the right tail light housing because the tail light wasn't working. I figured, blown bulb. Under there, I see this car has been 2 shades of blue, 2 shades of white/off white, as well as red. The bulb looked good. I used a buzzer voltage detector rather than a meter to trace where the power was going. Found the hot line at the left side of the car with the tail lights switched on. On the right side, found which wire was hot for the turn signal, so the other one must be the tail. There's an open in that line somewhere. As a quick check, I ran another wire across the car from left to right, and the right tail now lights. Pulled the left tail light housing to clean it out. The right one had quite a bit of fine sand dust inside which would make the light less bright. Found the same on the left, but with the lens itself cracked into several pieces. Also popped the reflectors out of the bottom of the light surround trim - those are both fried from years of exposure, and replacements are available - would like to have some good reflectors at night in case the bulbs either aren't very bright or go out for some reason.
  13. Yes, the brake switch wires are on the list. I work from an excel spreadsheet rather than trying to keep it in my head or on random pages. I prioritize the spreadsheet - to try to keep the whole car from being taken apart at once, and so I can "check off" jobs as they are completed. I don't have it in front of me at the moment, but columns are along the lines of: "item" "system" "priority" "est. cost" "supplier" "done" "date done" "actual cost". Also helps to remember later what I did...
  14. I had cross-threaded the original brake "V" or "Y" block, so while I was out of town the past few days, I ordered another block & bolt kit (from Midwest Jeep Willys - in Florida). Not the same angle as the one I took off, but easy enough to get the lines to fit. Also worked through the front seat belts this afternoon. Will add photo of them fastened down, but now waiting for the paint to dry on the under-floor backing plates (all seatbelt parts from Juliano's).
  15. Northwest - between Cortaro & Twin Peaks, west side of the highway.
  16. Evap o rust works pretty well. I was impressed with the cylinder plunger in particular. The cleaner-looking washers and the spring clip started out less rusty than the larger washers and the nuts. I'll drive it at least weekly - usually to the Thursday cruise night at Freddy's at Orange Grove & Thornydale, and also a couple of times/year to the Cars & Coffee at La Encantada, but also just around the neighborhood. At the C&C, it's fun to see my low-$$$ vintage car parked between a classic 300SL and a new McLaren...
  17. Thanks Paul - I'll look into the later brakes. Got the new master cylinder in. I'll post a picture later. Photos here - some brake master mounting parts I soaked in Evap-o-rust overnight, and a quick appearance improvement for the trunk emblem.
  18. No hill holder in this one. This looks to be a fairly low-option car - no radio, though there's an antenna on the right front fender, and a radio in the trunk. First day, I got the master cylinder out and the front drums off. Looking online, I saw that the rear drums require a puller. I don't recall exactly how the Buick rear drums were secured, but they didn't need a puller. I ordered the rear seat belts (I had fronts in the right color that I never got to installing in one of the Buicks), master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and the front hoses. I got the wheel cylinders, and though the website I ordered from said all 4 are the same, I should have known the fronts would be different. FLAPS didn't have the fronts either, so I'll get those from a Studebaker specialty place. One of the big Studebaker parts specialist shops is just 90 miles up the road from here. This week - got the puller and got the rear drums pulled. Got the wheel cylinders swapped in there. Received the '51-'52 Studebaker shop manual from Faxonautolit on eBay. That shows me that the front brakes may be missing the adjusters. It did look a little weird to me - there's no "star wheel" adjuster at the bottom like on the rears. Got the rear seat belts installed.
  19. After several months of no vintage car around, I got this Studebaker last week. I had been scanning the c-list ads here and to about 500 miles out for the past couple of months. Don't know anything in particular about Studebakers - if you've seen my other threads (and listed in the signature), I've worked with Buicks for the past 4 years or so. Anyway, this one was very easy for me to get to for a look over, was in the budget, seems to run well enough, and is in better condition than the last 2 Buicks I was working on. As in, I hope it doesn't take as long before I'm driving it. I do most all work myself. The main purpose for these cars has been to take my wife and kids to the Thursday night cruise night for burgers & frozen custard, though I've done a several of the more formalized shows around here. I like the cruise night because you show up when you want and leave when you want - or choose to do something else that week. The main immediate needs for this car are complete brake system overhaul. It has zero brakes whatsoever. So I was able to drive it (slowly) around the seller's yard, and up into my garage, and that's about it. The other main need is seatbelts, especially in back for my kids. I've done both of these projects multiple times before on the Buicks, so I hope that Studebaker isn't too hard to figure out. These pics are from the c-list ad.
  20. Looks to be a big collection of parts for the money... I can't get there, but maybe someone can save this... https://duluth.craigslist.org/cto/6170556622.html - listed as $950 for all... Kevin - 218-428-9479 For Sale do to storage loss. All my remaining 65 Buick Skylark parts collection. To many items to list them all but here are a few , Bumpers, Radiator support , 2 sets of doors, windows, tail lights, hood , trunk, seats front and rear w/extra, moldings boxed GS frame with 10 bolt posi. Lots of extra's. Must get rid of. Would like to sell it all as a package.
  21. Here's a '48 plastic from the '16 Nationals swap meet area. Hard to capture the shimmer of the metallic red. Did 4 coats of the red, one half at a time to let each side sit flat on the table. The chrome & blue were in good shape, so I didn't do anything with those.
  22. Just a little something to hang on the wall... I believe I found this at Nationals last year in the swap meet area. If you've been through some of my other threads, I was repainting with Testor's paints. For this one I tried metallic blue & metallic red to maybe give more of the original shimmer rather than a solid color. Colors are: Red Metal Flake #1529 and Blue Metal Flake #1539. and Metallic Silver #1146. First 3 photos are the "before", then cleaned & polished the frame w/ Simichrome, then painted/assembled indoor photo & outdoor photo. I'm always amazed how much better chrome looks outdoors...
  23. After much deliberation, I concluded the remaining items to get this one safely back on the road, though not beyond my abilities to arrange, were beyond my capacity at the moment. The car has been advertised for sale on the local c-list for about a month, and after a visit from a Swede, an inquiry from an Australian, and a near-trade with a local, the car is in the very capable hands of Matt Tisdale, of Tisdale Coachworks in Winslow, Indiana. Matt is very well known in the Dodge Power Wagon community, and his company makes many repro parts for these. Sounds like he'll have this car on the road in a matter of WEEKS. He had an IMMEDIATE opening in his interior shop to get the seats re-done, among other things. For the exterior, he's only going to apply a little oil & leave the patina as-is. His thoughts/plans were very aligned with mine. Sounds like this might be a "shop car" for a while, but you'll probably see it for sale again soon.
  24. Same car, same seller, 1 year later. In case anyone would like more details... https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/5986395260.html