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Eric W

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Everything posted by Eric W

  1. Studebaker's still in good shape. Earlier this year, I took on a complete re-wire. Got that done, and last thing left was replacing a defroster hose under the dash because it fell off in the rewire and was too dried up / cracked to go back. Finally got some hose a couple of weeks ago and made that fix. That allowed the radio to go back in, and finally the blank-off gauge on the right side of the cluster (the one that could be a factory-option clock) to finish off the dash. Adventures with Ford today - called the DMV, and they handled the title transfer & new plate completely on
  2. Thanks for the comments. Of all the years, this was busy - found another place with enough land for a separate garage. Got through the purchase process, moving & selling of the other place, then the water heater failed & flooded the garage, damaging some of the walls. Got through the restoration & insurance process with that - took about a month. Also replaced the dishwasher. A big part of moving was to get a place with space for a built-in pool in the backyard (we had one of those above-ground / temporary pools at the other place). Been working with pool companies for about 4 mont
  3. Always thought I might have a Model A, but didn't think it would be original. I found one on c-list about a month ago, only ~500 miles away, done as a street rod. Looked pretty neat, so I watched the price in the ad get lower each week and finally called the guy. Turns out it was built about 30 years ago, and soon after sold to someone who liked the street rod look but didn't know anything about taking care of a car, then 5 years ago bought by this seller. He'd fixed a lot of things that were wrong - complete re-wire among other things. But he didn't want to move at all on price, because he'd
  4. Watched about 2 hours of Miata videos yesterday - a series about building one up for track use. Took some notes. One thing they did which seemed to make a difference for them was to rebuild the shifter. The documents with my car indicate that the transmission was changed out at some point, but the vinyl shift boot is cracked. So I figured this is one not-too-extensive thing I should look into. I ordered the kit, which includes the boot on the transmission and the boot on the floor. They also replace the nylon shifter bottom bushing with a brass part. The shifting, particularly to first & r
  5. Ok, it's all back to normal now. Had an unbiased outside observer help with some things this morning. He had a portable 12V jump start pack & we touched that to a couple of things. Everything worked then. So charge the battery! I didn't suspect that because I've had this battery about a month, and the previous (unknown vintage, but fairly recent) battery would make many more starts than this. I knew there was a hint in my first description of the problem - press start button, starter just starts, then stops = charge the battery! I might just take this ba
  6. It's positive ground. To help try to keep it straight, someone along the way painted the ground strap red and the battery cable to the solenoid green. It's hooked up right - drove it many hundreds of miles like this, until it effectively "passed away" and decided it's not moving another inch with what's under the hood. When I bought it (about 3 years ago), the generator had lost its polarity or whatever it is. I looked that up and touched the wire from whatever to whatever, and the generator worked just fine. Right now, the generator isn't even part of it. The wire out from the vol
  7. It is. Measures about 6.35 - 6.42 V at the battery, and again at the end of the (new) wires that I connect to it. The connection is like this: Battery to solenoid to new wiring to leads through firewall to ammeter. Solenoid is only holding the battery cable to the wire that goes through the firewall - the other 2 terminals of the solenoid are not connected to anything. Bypassed the ammeter (in case it's contributing), and connected that lead direct to the downstream side of the ammeter. This goes to 4 things: ignition switch, headlight switch, horn, and I'll call it Aux. Aux goes to brake ligh
  8. I didn't write anything following because it's been too frustrating. After fixing the wiper wire, I took the car out, drove around some, and everything was working (even with the speedometer and its 4 light bulbs out). Parked in the driveway, washed the tires. Then started it and pulled it in. Next day, tried to start again, starter cranked for about a second then stopped. Since then, everything electrical in the car has been hard dead. I mean EVERYTHING. First thing I pulled the starter lead off the solenoid in case the starter's shorted or something - nothing from the starter is feeding back
  9. The hose itself is too dried up - it has no give to go back over the metal tubes. Just need a new piece of hose.
  10. No, and I'd rather not. Studebaker Int'l does sell modern electronic replacements that look like the original, if it comes to that. I did replace the wiper wiring today. That started with re-discovering the other 2 fasteners that secure the radio, and getting the radio out of the way. It has to be out to access the interior side of the wiper motor mounting fasteners, to disconnect the wiper linkage from the wiper motor, and to access the wiper on/off switch. I think that the wiper wiring was the source of the intermittent short, as I found several spots of bare conductor / crumbled
  11. Tried to start again, and as soon as I hit the starter button, it didn't go. Spent the weekend taking things apart. Figured maybe the starter had died - this was a used one of unknown history. Pulled the starter out. Tried to put in the rebuilt one, but the drive gear doesn't push back enough into the housing. I think the starter rebuilder was trying to do me a favor by replacing that gear, but it's now the wrong one. It clearly does not push back enough to clear the engine's flywheel teeth. That was a hassle to get up in there, as the V8 starter is quite a bit longer than the 6-cylinder one.
  12. Thanks - got the terminal for the horn lead installed, found the needed under-dash bulb in the dome light at the back of the roof (didn't replace that wire through the headliner anyway), got the speedometer and blank gauge reinstalled, and installed the heater switch. Had to make up 2 leads for that one. Pulled tools out from all over everywhere & vacuumed. Drove it around - seems to be all good. Also need to try at night to see how the lights look. Photos - tools needed; dash reassembled.
  13. Got the horns as far as I could. Pulled the radiator shroud to solder new leads to the horns themselves - the part of the horn leads outside of the shroud was crumbled away and exposed conductor. Need another trip to the store for a blade terminal to finish them. Got the license plate light working. Pulled the trunk emblem / license plate holder off - this is the only way to access the bulb! I thought it was burned out, but I just couldn't see it in the daytime. Also took the opportunity to clean the sandy dust out from inside of the license light lens - that was blocking a lot of the light fr
  14. Frustration continues. Seems like it wasn't the battery. Still doing the works a little, then dead. Traced it to the ignition key switch. Got another one from the local store. Doesn't look so good compared with stock, but it's easy to change out if I find another stock one or figure out how to fix the one I have. Figured out the turn signals. BIG frustration on that one. 8 wires from the turn signal harness. What are they for? They look more recent than the rest of the car, so this harness must have been changed at some point. 2 of the wires were cut shorter like they're not used /
  15. Very frustrating afternoon. It would power for a couple of seconds, then all would go dead. What is it? Finally thought it might be the battery letting me down. Got another battery. From there, it was quick to get the front marker lights, high- and low-beam headlights, horn, ignition, and started it briefly - then remembered the oil pressure gauge (with a live oil pipe) wasn't connected. Dribbled some oil onto the floor. Ran the harness to the rear - around the brake master, connected brake light switch, back along the frame to the gas tank lead, over top of the frame, and out just in front of
  16. Turns out getting ready was just in time. The replacement harness came in yesterday's mail. So last night, I swapped over a couple of the light sockets that this new harness has a note must be re-used. This harness is made per the original wire color coding, so the diagram in the factory shop manual is used to guide the installation. Couple things I had to transfer from that other harness kit - turn signal wiring and the dome light leads. Per the factory manual, turn signals were an option, but the place I ordered from doesn't seem to sell a turn signal kit. I thought about just zip tying the
  17. Still waiting for the replacement harness. Backed out this mystery replacement one today - given the weather forecast, I think we're about done with cool mornings until October. Would have been nice for the harness to be here now so I could get this done before it's blazing hot, but at least got the car a little more ready for the new harness.
  18. Got the rear pair of tires today. Had considered replacing the rims, or maybe pulling these rims off for repainting, but with the Governor's "stay at home" order and all that, I figured the powder coat place might not even be open. And the fronts have some life left, so I wouldn't want to pull all 4. But I wouldn't want to do the powder coat in 2 trips, because I might not get the same color (it's lower cost if it's an "in stock" color, but you never know what's "in stock"). The left rear has had a slow leak for a while, and the prior owner definitely got all the life out of these tires - basi
  19. Got back to removing the old wiring. Wanted to pull the section between the frame and the brake master cylinder. First photo is to remind me what the brake master looks like all fasteners in place. Pull the 2 big bolts that hold the master to the frame, so the cylinder can shift around a little to pull the wires down and back. Second photo - the portion of harness released. Don't really need to go farther back than this until the replacement harness is delivered - I can see the rest of the harness on the frame all the way back with not really anything in the way of pulling it out.
  20. Yes, this mystery harness I was working with didn't seem to be all that great quality - wires looked heavy enough, but when I saw what I was pulling out, I wasn't so sure. When I connected the battery and started some measurements, that pretty well confirmed this harness isn't adequate. Given Studebaker International is a major supplier, I'm counting on them to know what they're doing. I'll add some more photos of today's progress. I got the nasty train wreck of old wires out from the bottom end of the engine compartment. First photo - what came out - bottom harness went to the ove
  21. Got back to it today. Tried adding the battery to see what lights would work. Turns out - none. This harness has so much resistance, it's sucking up all the power within itself. About 3v loss on the big wire between the voltage regulator and the solenoid. This goes through the ammeter, but I checked no detectable loss through the ammeter itself. On the smaller wires out to the front marker lights, voltage is almost nothing. Ordered a new harness from Studebaker Int'l, and started backing this one out. Hopefully their harness has a couple more pounds of copper than this one. Got the dash disass
  22. Some photos - cover plate after overnight in Evap-o-Rust, scotchbrited & painted. The section of harness fed through the cover plate. Cover plate in place. Branch looping under - just the way this harness was made. Plenty of length there. Front light wiring & closer up. Still need to put the horn relay back. Routing at the terminal block wasn't exactly what I wanted, but I was working with the lengths & terminals provided. Gauges going back in. With the gauges out, took the opportunity to go over the panel with Simichrome to shine it up some.
  23. Thanks - I got a headlight switch out of the parts car. Today finished cleaning up & repainting the firewall cover plate. Got the harness pulled back out and strung through the cover plate, then harness back in place and firewall opening closed up. Made the connections under the hood for front lights, solenoid, ignition coil, temperature gauge, and generator. Will need to get under the car to pull the remaining old wiring for the transmission overdrive, the high/low beam switch, brake light switch, and the harness to the rear lights. It's looking like the harness I have was for the automat
  24. And then there was this worldwide pandemic, and the economy crashed, so I think this car is trying to stay with me... Got the starter back from the rebuilder. Decided to swap it in to see if it works better than the one that's on there. Got it mostly into place and decided it might not be right for the car. I didn't take a good picture before I sent it off, so I'm not sure the same one came back. The end that goes into the bellhousing looks a lot bigger than the one that I got from the parts guy. He said the automatic transmissions had a different end to engage the flywheel, so I b
  25. Not much to say about the Miata. Considering wheel/tire options, but working on keeping the Studebaker going so possibly it might be sold. Also working on even bigger project of possibly moving to a place with more room for these projects. Had two that we could live with for sale around here recently - one was on the edge of our price range, but the house had many add-ons over time that resulted in wasted space and a layout with rooms that just weren't usable for us (but 3 1/2 acres of land and two 24' x 36' workshop buildings), and another with an older house that we could live wi
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