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Everything posted by beerczar1976

  1. Fixed it! Found that the self-remember on the pillows were exerting to much pressure. Second reason MIGHT have been than on ends of the cables there is a small bead...think of those that are on the end of a bicycle brake or shift cable. One had slid in about 1/ 32" further than it should have been to the slotted retainer on the transmission link effectively shortening the cable by about 1/32" .
  2. Knobs should have a small Allen head screw holding them to the shaft. Once knobs are off the shaft, should be a notched tube type nut that sandwiches the dash material between the switch and the notched tube nut. There is a tool for it, looks basically like a socket that has prongs sticking out of the end. But usually can also be spun off using a flat head screwdriver on an angle or with long low profile needle nose pliers. Once nut and wires are removed from switch, should easily drop out from back side of dash. On some switches, the shaft is also removable by putting a stiff piece of wire thru a hole in the side of the body of the switch mechanism. Shaft is held in by spring tension. Pushing the internal release should allow it to slide out.
  3. Yes. Wiped it down. Like I said, inside, was quite clean, figured it was going to be nasty in there. Either still sealed up well from factory, or had been rebuilt. I had somewhat similar issue with my clock too. Wasn't working even with brand new wiring. Took it out from dash, open it up and found inside to be near immaculate...couple drops of oil and away it's ticked and rewound the spring on it's own since then about 3 years ago. I give it more of a go and try to add more lube to entire system...I had already tried the white lithium on a few spots on the transmission as well, but might not be hitting the right places yet.
  4. I figured I'd try to get my vacuum wipers working now that I went thru the whole process of installing a new windshield gasket on my '50 Special...Yeah that was fun... Put on new 7/32"id vacuum hose, connected up to the switch, wiper knurls turn in only one direction (opposite to outboard of car as they should), no return back to start position unless I shut switch back off. Well after messing around with it, checking connections, etc., I finally pulled off the motor and opened it up. It didn't really look all that well lubed, seemed a bit dry, had a little bit of gunky grease residue here and there, but really clean. Based on internal cleanliness and overall look of unit on the outside, my guess is that at some point it may have been rebuilt. Lubed it up, hooked it up to vacuum line, motor runs like hell when not attached to cowl. Suffice to say when mounted back to the cowl it would run again in only direction only. Pulled unit back off (kinda pissed at this point...LOL), added more lube (been using a combination of white lithium grease and brake fluid), unit on it's own still runs like a clock. Mount back on to the cowl, this time wipers work beautifully. Awesome, until I shut of car, and cleaned up work area. Upon re-start, same damn issue, no wiper movement again... I have not yet even bothered to put the actual wiper arms on the car, so it's not a dry windshield issue. I don't think it's a vacuum pressure issue since when testing the wiper fluid it sprayed near clean over the roof of the car...plenty of pressure there. I think my final question comes down to how tight should the under dash cable transmission set-up should be? I did find initially that the external part was pretty tight to turn by hand and was kind of crudded up. Somewhere in the past, car had been repainted and cowl was left in primer white. The transmission area had been sprayed over and may have caused some binding due to paint, years of sitting, etc. I cleaned all that best I could, and it now rotates pretty freely by hand. Anything I'm overlooking? I did see that their is an access plate on the transmissions where they go thru the bottom side of the dash on both sides of the car...maybe I need to try and lube in there as well? Like I said, I did get the whole unit to run great for about 10 mins on it's own before I shut off the car that last time... Very strange. I did notice on other years that motors have rubberized mounting collars. The '50 only has the diecast collars that accept screws that lead into the cowl. Is there maybe supposed to be a spacer I'm missing? Maybe with a spacer, there's enough offset that motor to transmission junction is not as tight?...
  5. Agree, start with cable. Found out mine didn't work due to the internal cable that's inside the outer jacket snapped at some point and had turned itself into an octopus...It was pretty jammed inside the housing. Replaced internal cable and sent out head for servicing. Biggest thing to remember is to cut the new cable to exactly as close as possible to what the shop manual calls for, otherwise new cable will tend to "whip" inside the housing causing a ticking sound, or worse, binding. Lubricate cable as recommended, which is coating only the lower end of the cable; lubing all the way to the top will cause the grease to work itself back up inside the head of the speedometer. I'd see if you can get by with a new cable first as the speedo servicing is not exactly cheap. I sent my out to a shop in Michigan, Bob's Speedometer Service, if I recall.
  6. The "el" bracket on mine had been lost to time as well. Went to hardware store, found a couple different length that I though might have worked (they come in a 2 or 3 pack), and then drilled the hole bigger to accept the flange bolt. Trickiest was finding a bracket long enough on the bottom side to clear the edge of the flange, but wasn't too long that would allow for the spring to attach. All that spring is meant for is to keep the butterfly valve in the heat riser from flapping when it's been totally freed up/working properly.
  7. If your heat riser manifold valve is still stuck, try using the specifically formulated AC-Delco Heat Riser Valve lubricant. Comes in a spray can. The lube is in a foam consistency when applied. Spray it on both ends of the shaft that come thru the cast iron heater box and let it soak in. As you're able to get it to budge, keep applying and tap the shaft so it slides in and out of the box; this will eventually work the lube into the bearings that are cast into the box and will/should, after some time, free the butterfly valve back up. Be patient, and don't try to muscle it too much. The arm with the counterweight is somewhat easy to bend out of shape.
  8. I've had success finding the glass fuses individually at very well stocked hardware stores. While we were living in VA a local store had pretty much all the fuses and small bulbs I needed, but they were often found in different aisles. Check beyond automotive in the Electrical aisle, the aisle with Appliance parts, etc. The store had the bins in a couple different spots, each seemingly with different sizes and styles of fuses...
  9. I agree with Bloo. I used the AC-Delco version of the heat riser solvent off of Amazon. Sure enough after a couple days of spraying and repeated tapping from both ends of the shaft, mine freed up. You're probably in a better spot that me, as mine was still mounted on the car. At least you'll be able to spray down the insides of the valve as well. I basically spray some of the solvent on the shaft on the valve every so often now and work it back and forth to keep the bearings lubricated and freed up.
  10. Looking for replacement Windshield Outer (chrome/stainless) and Interior (painted steel) Center Division Moldings for a 1950 Special. Mine had been drilled at some time prior to my ownership for a sunvisor that was added to the car. I have the visor, but I think it's missing some of the mounting hardware; never got around to trying to piece it back together. Going to forgo re-installation for now. I can live with the extra holes on the interior center molding, but would prefer a clean exterior piece if I can find one.
  11. Other than Park basically not holding, Dynaflow is working fine. Plan on bringing it into shop this fall to service rear axle leaks, and since will be pulled apart, will have them check torque tube for leaks. Again, as all of this going to be apart, want to get Park working again. I've tried adjusting shift linkage already, so it's got to be internal. Does the whole rear bearing retainer at tail end of tranny need to be removed for access to Park Pawl and it's levers, rods, spring, etc., or is there enough access with torque ball and u-joint removed? Manuals don't really give a clear run-down on that. Dynaflow Drive Manual shows all the Park stuff being rebuilt with Rear Bearing Retainer off. Shop Manual kinda skins over it. Looks like removing Rear Bearing Retainer requires some other internals get pulled apart in addition to requiring supporting transmission since retainer has thrust plate and support pad installed on it and removing transmission oil pan...
  12. Good to know. The shop I checked in with does full classic auto restorations, service, sales, etc.
  13. Anyone have access to a 1950 Flat Rate Manual? Trailered my '50 Special up to our new address in CT from VA yesterday. Driver's side rear axle seal is leaking. I think it was before, but now it's flowing pretty good; small puddle on u-haul ramp. I'm thinking, as with so many others, torque ball seal is flowing tranny fluid to rear diff. via driveshaft, overfilling it, and now it leaks. The diff. always had a drip going on as well. So back to question. I probably won't be tackling these items myself. For an experienced shop to do it, how many hours should be realistic to budget for? Parts kits are available, so that shouldn't be a real worry.
  14. Referring to Post# 115. My '50 Special also has plastic turn signal lenses up front and glass in the rear. My thought would be susceptibility of glass up front to rock damage, so Buick/Guide was smart enough to spec. plastic...
  15. Agree with Ben Bruce. Nuts for rear belt molding can be accessed from inside trunk; lay on your back inside trunk and look up on bottom side of area at base of window. Likewise, same deal for belt molding at base of windshield. Look for nuts underdash at base of cowl area. Both front and rear moldings may have small Philips-head screws at on the door frame ends of the piece as well. Recommend wearing a headlamp and probably having an extension socket available. If original wiring, plan on maybe wearing a dust mask and goggles. That old fabric-covered wiring likes to rain all sorts of dust and crap in your eyes, nose, and mouth...Nuts may not need to be entirely removed. I've sometimes had success in loosening to nearly the last couple threads. This should allow you to pull molding out and away from body. You can then try to slide molding off the retainer clips. Take your time, there will probably be rust and crud build-up on the backside of the molding's track. They may take a bit of finagling since the moldings are hockey-stick shaped. After removal, I usually wire brush them out, and maybe apply a bit of WD-40 or other type of lubricant that will dissipate once dry after the molding is back in place.
  16. Ben, do you know if they do the A-Pillar body tags too? Pretty sure mine was removed by prior owner when repainted. Is the body# the same # as stamped on the frame? I've yet to have ever have seen that number, but if memory serves, prior owner found it and that's the number they used for Titling the car in Mass.
  17. Good you mentioned "unwind" when hot...I'm wondering if the thermostat coil that's on there now may also be on backwards. I think when I swing the arm to the hot/open position, the coil tightens vice unwind.
  18. Thanks. That's basically what I tried experimenting with this weekend. Not quite there. A 3/4"x3/4" L was too short to clear lip of flange. The 1"x1" L was about right for clearance, however, I think it's too tall. I tried to bend it outward (towards the cowl). It give a good spring tension to the Off position, but none when Closed (cold). Also caused it to kind of bind some halfway thru the swing. I believe manual lists same tension in both directions. Based on line drawings (which there are very few of in the Shop and Parts Manuals that show this part), I'm thinking original bracket may have been 1" left to right and 3/4" tall. I may try to bend the 1" back to vertical and put a downward bend into it to try to reduce the height some but retain the 90-degree L-shape. I'll let you know what I can get...Will also make sure that the spring end of the swing arm hasn't been straightened or bent out of shape at some point either.
  19. I ended up buying some of the AC - Delco Exhaust Manifold Valve lube spray. After a few applications and some mallet caps with a socket extension used on the right end so I wouldn't bend the counter-weight arm, the dang thing loosened up! This was only over the course of 15-20 mins. I can now turn it under hand pressure. Have no idea when last that flapper moved freely. Figuring a few more soaks of this stuff over the weekend and it'll be rotating freely in the bearings. Now, next question is...anyone have an idea of the measurements for the "L" bracket may have been that bolts to the bottom cowl side of the exhaust pipe union? This bracket was what the spring end of the counter-weight arm would have hooked to.
  20. I concur with above. I believe on all small engines, cleaner body sits in cradle built into top of valve cover, and then held in place by a giant band clamp. Smaller band clamp is used on driver's side end to hold cleaner down onto the intake horn of the carb. I've seen a slightly different set-up for the larger engine cars that the air cleaner is a bit shorter and sits more front to back in the engine bay and does not crossing the valve cover.
  21. It's leaking from the cover side. Though I bet there's some weeping from the flange side as well since the whole diff. pumpkin is covered in the typical layer of road crud/oil grime on an un-resto'd car. I have a new cover gasket, but have so far wimped out on doing the full job. Did you put the sealer just on the bolt threads?
  22. Noticed my rear diff. dripping a bit lately. Finally had a chance to crawl under there with a wire brush to clean off the crud. Turns out the bolt at 9 o'clock is weeping. Tried loosening bolt and re-torquing to 15 lbs. but no luck. Obviously the manual prescribed white lead is no longer available. Any suggestions? Guy at O'Reilly suggested Magic black silicone sealant. Haven't tried it yet.
  23. A tip for when you're putting a new brake pedal pad on...they don't just slip on. I heated mine up in the microwave at increments of like 10-15 secs at a time to get it pliable and stretchy enough to get over the metal pedal. I wish I could figure out how they got that brake pedal grommet over the shaft. I got a new one and removed the shaft from the pivot, where the alignment marks are, and there was no way it was sliding up the shaft to where it belongs...could be that repops are wrong size, or perhaps like the pedal pad, they're slid on while warm and stretchy and allowed to cool and shrink back to the right size?
  24. Thanks for the reply JohnD1956. I'm hoping to maybe try it out this weekend. Again, seems simple enough...famous last words. LOL!