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beerczar1976

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Everything posted by beerczar1976

  1. Any help? Even a picture of how you're is set-up would help!
  2. Have a 4 piece set of the rear body to bumper stone guards ready to install on my '50 Special Sedan. Looking for a pic of hardware that holds them together and onto the sides of the fenders. I know the large outer bumper piece sandwiches between the bumper and the bumper frame (back bars) and held in place by the bumper bolts and carriage bolts under the back-up light bumperettes. How about the trunk center piece and the right and left ends? Trunk center used 4 hex-head machine screws to hold it to bottom side of body. End pieces have speed nuts built in. There does seem to be slotted ho
  3. The 89 Buick Regal Custom I had when in HS in '94 was also an Olympic edition. Not ever really sure what made it that per second other than plastic gold colored stick-on Olympic ring/USA emblems on the qtr panels.
  4. By fabric, I meant vinyl. Still looking for a picture of this piece installed...lol
  5. Yeah, I kind of figured that based on the photo of the item; it looked like it had screw and maybe even staples holes in it along the edges. So does the package tray fabric wrap over the front side of it or something? Do you have a picture of it installed? The Parts Manual I have shows the piece, but not in a '50, and it's in a rather busy line drawing. Just trying to visualize how it goes in. Thanks!
  6. Will be installing interior back into my '50 Special this spring. Interior was out of the car when I bought it years ago. I saw in the Parts Manual some kind of metal trim that's supposed to go between package tray and top of back seat. I found one on eBay, but how is it actually installed? Can someone show me what that area of their late 40s/early 50s looks like. Here's the link to the part...https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401823661700
  7. Fixed it! Found that the self-remember on the pillows were exerting to much pressure. Second reason MIGHT have been than on ends of the cables there is a small bead...think of those that are on the end of a bicycle brake or shift cable. One had slid in about 1/ 32" further than it should have been to the slotted retainer on the transmission link effectively shortening the cable by about 1/32" .
  8. Knobs should have a small Allen head screw holding them to the shaft. Once knobs are off the shaft, should be a notched tube type nut that sandwiches the dash material between the switch and the notched tube nut. There is a tool for it, looks basically like a socket that has prongs sticking out of the end. But usually can also be spun off using a flat head screwdriver on an angle or with long low profile needle nose pliers. Once nut and wires are removed from switch, should easily drop out from back side of dash. On some switches, the shaft is also removable by putting a stiff piece of w
  9. Yes. Wiped it down. Like I said, inside, was quite clean, figured it was going to be nasty in there. Either still sealed up well from factory, or had been rebuilt. I had somewhat similar issue with my clock too. Wasn't working even with brand new wiring. Took it out from dash, open it up and found inside to be near immaculate...couple drops of oil and away it's ticked and rewound the spring on it's own since then about 3 years ago. I give it more of a go and try to add more lube to entire system...I had already tried the white lithium on a few spots on the transmission as well, but migh
  10. I figured I'd try to get my vacuum wipers working now that I went thru the whole process of installing a new windshield gasket on my '50 Special...Yeah that was fun... Put on new 7/32"id vacuum hose, connected up to the switch, wiper knurls turn in only one direction (opposite to outboard of car as they should), no return back to start position unless I shut switch back off. Well after messing around with it, checking connections, etc., I finally pulled off the motor and opened it up. It didn't really look all that well lubed, seemed a bit dry, had a little bit of gunky grease residue here
  11. Agree, start with cable. Found out mine didn't work due to the internal cable that's inside the outer jacket snapped at some point and had turned itself into an octopus...It was pretty jammed inside the housing. Replaced internal cable and sent out head for servicing. Biggest thing to remember is to cut the new cable to exactly as close as possible to what the shop manual calls for, otherwise new cable will tend to "whip" inside the housing causing a ticking sound, or worse, binding. Lubricate cable as recommended, which is coating only the lower end of the cable; lubing all the way to the
  12. The "el" bracket on mine had been lost to time as well. Went to hardware store, found a couple different length that I though might have worked (they come in a 2 or 3 pack), and then drilled the hole bigger to accept the flange bolt. Trickiest was finding a bracket long enough on the bottom side to clear the edge of the flange, but wasn't too long that would allow for the spring to attach. All that spring is meant for is to keep the butterfly valve in the heat riser from flapping when it's been totally freed up/working properly.
  13. If your heat riser manifold valve is still stuck, try using the specifically formulated AC-Delco Heat Riser Valve lubricant. Comes in a spray can. The lube is in a foam consistency when applied. Spray it on both ends of the shaft that come thru the cast iron heater box and let it soak in. As you're able to get it to budge, keep applying and tap the shaft so it slides in and out of the box; this will eventually work the lube into the bearings that are cast into the box and will/should, after some time, free the butterfly valve back up. Be patient, and don't try to muscle it too much. The
  14. I've had success finding the glass fuses individually at very well stocked hardware stores. While we were living in VA a local store had pretty much all the fuses and small bulbs I needed, but they were often found in different aisles. Check beyond automotive in the Electrical aisle, the aisle with Appliance parts, etc. The store had the bins in a couple different spots, each seemingly with different sizes and styles of fuses...
  15. I agree with Bloo. I used the AC-Delco version of the heat riser solvent off of Amazon. Sure enough after a couple days of spraying and repeated tapping from both ends of the shaft, mine freed up. You're probably in a better spot that me, as mine was still mounted on the car. At least you'll be able to spray down the insides of the valve as well. I basically spray some of the solvent on the shaft on the valve every so often now and work it back and forth to keep the bearings lubricated and freed up.
  16. Looking for replacement Windshield Outer (chrome/stainless) and Interior (painted steel) Center Division Moldings for a 1950 Special. Mine had been drilled at some time prior to my ownership for a sunvisor that was added to the car. I have the visor, but I think it's missing some of the mounting hardware; never got around to trying to piece it back together. Going to forgo re-installation for now. I can live with the extra holes on the interior center molding, but would prefer a clean exterior piece if I can find one.
  17. Other than Park basically not holding, Dynaflow is working fine. Plan on bringing it into shop this fall to service rear axle leaks, and since will be pulled apart, will have them check torque tube for leaks. Again, as all of this going to be apart, want to get Park working again. I've tried adjusting shift linkage already, so it's got to be internal. Does the whole rear bearing retainer at tail end of tranny need to be removed for access to Park Pawl and it's levers, rods, spring, etc., or is there enough access with torque ball and u-joint removed? Manuals don't really give a clear run-
  18. Good to know. The shop I checked in with does full classic auto restorations, service, sales, etc.
  19. Anyone have access to a 1950 Flat Rate Manual? Trailered my '50 Special up to our new address in CT from VA yesterday. Driver's side rear axle seal is leaking. I think it was before, but now it's flowing pretty good; small puddle on u-haul ramp. I'm thinking, as with so many others, torque ball seal is flowing tranny fluid to rear diff. via driveshaft, overfilling it, and now it leaks. The diff. always had a drip going on as well. So back to question. I probably won't be tackling these items myself. For an experienced shop to do it, how many hours should be realistic to budg
  20. Referring to Post# 115. My '50 Special also has plastic turn signal lenses up front and glass in the rear. My thought would be susceptibility of glass up front to rock damage, so Buick/Guide was smart enough to spec. plastic...
  21. Agree with Ben Bruce. Nuts for rear belt molding can be accessed from inside trunk; lay on your back inside trunk and look up on bottom side of area at base of window. Likewise, same deal for belt molding at base of windshield. Look for nuts underdash at base of cowl area. Both front and rear moldings may have small Philips-head screws at on the door frame ends of the piece as well. Recommend wearing a headlamp and probably having an extension socket available. If original wiring, plan on maybe wearing a dust mask and goggles. That old fabric-covered wiring likes to rain all sorts of du
  22. Ben, do you know if they do the A-Pillar body tags too? Pretty sure mine was removed by prior owner when repainted. Is the body# the same # as stamped on the frame? I've yet to have ever have seen that number, but if memory serves, prior owner found it and that's the number they used for Titling the car in Mass.
  23. Good note...as you mentioned "unwind" when hot...I'm wondering if the thermostat coil that's on there now may also be on backwards. I think when I swing the arm to the hot/open position, the coil tightens vice unwind.
  24. Thanks. That's basically what I tried experimenting with this weekend. Not quite there. A 3/4"x3/4" L was too short to clear lip of flange. The 1"x1" L was about right for clearance, however, I think it's too tall. I tried to bend it outward (towards the cowl). It give a good spring tension to the Off position, but none when Closed (cold). Also caused it to kind of bind some halfway thru the swing. I believe manual lists same tension in both directions. Based on line drawings (which there are very few of in the Shop and Parts Manuals that show this part), I'm thinking original bracket
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