Best Method to Remove Rust from Chrome?

[Guest bofusmosby]

Are there any methods that can remove the rust from chrome items without damaging the existing chrome? I know that it will not look like new, but on chrome items, if the rust can be removed, then it can only be an improvement. I welcome any and all opinions, tricks, or methods that any of you may have.

Thank you!

[West Peterson]

0000 steel wool

[frank29u]

I have used a chrome polish and the finest steel wool available, 5 "ought" 00000, if memory serves correctly. It does leave minute scratches that could probably be buffed. I did not try the buffing, however. frank

[Scooter Guy]

Are you able to remove these parts from the car and soak / submerge them or is a requirement that they stay on the car?

[Guest bofusmosby]

Thanks guys for you answers. I thought of the steel wool method, but I am wondering how bad the scratches would be. I remember when I was a kid, and the bicycle handlebars would get a lot of rust on them. I would use rust remover with steel wool,m and they cleaned up pretty good. However, I know that using rust remover on chrome is not usually a good idea. The container usually says "do not use on chrome". I don't have any memory as to the scratched that were made, but hey, I was just a kid. LOL

Scooter Guy, For the most part, I could probably soak them, but I would have to improvise a long enough container to accomplish this. I would be doable though. What do you have in mind?

Edited June 12, 2013 by bofusmosby (see edit history)

[stock_steve]

My son heard about wood bleach--a.k.a. oxalic acid, I think, on a motorcycle forum, for soaking chromed motorcycle parts in to remove rust. I think you can get it in powder form at a hardware store, and you mix some of the powder with water at a prescribed measurement of each, and then soak the part overnight. I have *not* tried this, so I have no idea if it works, or doesn't do a thing, or possibly even *damages* your part.

I also assume that "protective gear up the wazoo" is also in order when working with materials like this (gloves, apron, goggles, face shield, etc., what-not).

A definite *USE AT OWN RISK* on that one.

I personally have used alternating super-fine steel wool and "Never-Dull" (the impregnated cotton wadding material that comes in a small silver can--I think you can get it at Wal-Mart, and I think it is an Eagle-1 product), and have had good results cleaning up not-too-rusted chrome hub caps, bumpers, etc...

Then finish up with a good coat of wax.

Edited June 12, 2013 by stock_steve (see edit history)

[Scooter Guy]

I was originally thinking electrolysis, but I'm now having second thoughts about if it would be safe for chrome. I know that it works well, but I've never tried it on chrome.

You might be better off trying something like Evaporust, though the stuff is a bit expensive for use on a large scale.

[TexRiv_63]

If the parts are not severely pitted I've always used heavy duty hand rubbing compound, the red stuff. Steel wool might help if there is pitting or the rust is heavy but it will scratch. I just got something else for my Packard, Quick-Glo chrome cleaner. It is a pumice based cleaner with wax, I have used it on good chrome with great results but have not yet tried it on rusty parts. I heard about it on a Jay Leno's Garage video and they demonstrated it removing rust quite easily.

[Guest prs519]

Who sells it, Tex? thanks!

If the parts are not severely pitted I've always used heavy duty hand rubbing compound, the red stuff. Steel wool might help if there is pitting or the rust is heavy but it will scratch. I just got something else for my Packard, Quick-Glo chrome cleaner. It is a pumice based cleaner with wax, I have used it on good chrome with great results but have not yet tried it on rusty parts. I heard about it on a Jay Leno's Garage video and they demonstrated it removing rust quite easily.

[GARY F]

0000 steel wool with car polish

[TexRiv_63]

You buy Quick-Glo direct from the owner:

Wolds Best Rust Remover | Rust Remover Bicycles | Rust Remover Harley Davidson | Cleaner for bronze, copper and more...

[Guest Mochet]

I concur with Evapo-Rust. You can get it at Harbor Freight or by mail. Also, you can try Quick-Glo. Here's the Leno video on the latter product.

Phil

[drwatson]

I find SOS pads are very good for removing rust from chrome without scratching the chrome.

It's especially labor saving for an advanced problem or a large piece like a bumper. The pads attack only the rust.

Use rubber gloves.

[Guest bofusmosby]

I think I'm first going to try the "Quick-Glo" and see how that does. I also see the the "Evaporust" is now sold at Home Depot, do I'll get some of that if needed.

Thanks guys! If anyone else and a suggestion, I'm all ears!

[Guest Skyking]

I find SOS pads are very good for removing rust from chrome without scratching the chrome.

It's especially labor saving for an advanced problem or a large piece like a bumper. The pads attack only the rust.

Use rubber gloves.

Ditto to that. That's all I've been using for years. The soap in the pad acts like a lubricant.

[Guest my3buicks]

Soak your parts in Coca Cola

[Restorer32]

Bear in mind that while you can clean chrome you can't actually polish it. It's way too hard for that.

[Harold]

As others have said, '0000' steel wool is effective on rusty chrome. I use WD-40 as a lubricant for the steel wool (the equivalent of wet sanding) for an extra margin of safety against scratches. Wipe off the excess WD-40 afterwards and it leaves a shiny protective film on the part.

[auburnseeker]

Don't use SOS pads if you don't want scratches. They are to coarse. I clean alot of NOS chrome parts up for resale that have absolutely no scratches to start with. I wash everything first to get dirt off. The dirt is what usually scratches. I then do a gentle round with 0000 steel wool as the others have mentioned not getting quite everything off. I then follow up with a clean cloth and Mothers polish. That seems to work the best for me. It usually comes out scratch free. The exception is if you get too aggressive with the steel wool you can leave really fine scratch lines that are pretty much only noticeable under flourescent lighting looking really close at the piece. The WD 40 with the steel wool is a good tip. I have some ancient chrome cleaner liquid that I have used the same way as the WD40 for a lubricant/cleaner.

Some Chrome can be buffed on a wheel with compound if you can get it off the car. You need to be careful to not buff too hard as you will buff through the chrome to the nickel. This does help remove scuffs and scratching to give you a fresher luster to dull parts.

I use this method on alot of the NOS bumper guards I sell as they usually don't have absolutely flawless chrome like small potmetal parts tend to have.

[R Walling]

If you can soak it, dip it into a 8 to 1 mixture of water and molasses. (available at feed stores @ $9 / gal.)

Other wise soak a towel in the mixture and lay it on the part.

Then protect with a good wax coating.

(If the part is so badly rusted that no chrome exists, the part will come out bare metal clean in about a week)

I have removed rust from parts and then sanded them with fine sand paper to make them shiney and then clear coated them. They end up looking like brushed stainless steel.

(cheap way out of chrome)

<O:p</O:p

Edited June 13, 2013 by Roger Walling (see edit history)

[West Peterson]

Don't use SOS pads if you don't want scratches. They are to coarse. I clean alot of NOS chrome parts up for resale that have absolutely no scratches to start with. I wash everything first to get dirt off. The dirt is what usually scratches. I then do a gentle round with 0000 steel wool as the others have mentioned not getting quite everything off. I then follow up with a clean cloth and Mothers polish. That seems to work the best for me. It usually comes out scratch free. The exception is if you get too aggressive with the steel wool you can leave really fine scratch lines that are pretty much only noticeable under flourescent lighting looking really close at the piece. The WD 40 with the steel wool is a good tip. I have some ancient chrome cleaner liquid that I have used the same way as the WD40 for a lubricant/cleaner.

Some Chrome can be buffed on a wheel with compound if you can get it off the car. You need to be careful to not buff too hard as you will buff through the chrome to the nickel. This does help remove scuffs and scratching to give you a fresher luster to dull parts.

I use this method on alot of the NOS bumper guards I sell as they usually don't have absolutely flawless chrome like small potmetal parts tend to have.

DITTO!!! Do not use SOS on chrome. Use the 0000 very carefully. Don't press hard. Or try what Roger has suggested.

SOS is fine for stainless, though you'd have to follow up with the finer 0000 steel wool then some rubbing compound, polish, etc.

[Guest bofusmosby]

Well, I ordered the "Quick-Glo this after noon. I spoke to the owner, and he is hoping that I give the resuklts to this forum, and is in higher hopes that it will be very positive. He has 2 different types. The fine stuff is mostly for the good chrome to keep it looking good, but the original stuff is for a more aggresive approach. I told him I'd let him know how things go.

[Guest Henry White]

Nevrdull

Being a cloth it does not scratch. It will remove rust stains nicely but true rust is the absence of chrome, too late for that. But Nevrdull does nicely for stained chrome. I buy it at Pep Boys etc. Nevrdull, one "e"

[Guest prs519]

I have also used #7 Dupont rubbing compound with good success. Also,it will bring enamel paint back to glowing condition (removes the oxidized portion). Problem is, although it used to be in grocery stores, I have not idea where to find it, anymore. Do not let it dry out, its moisture content is important.

[TexRiv_63]

I did a little unofficial comparison test for this thread on my Packard today. I removed some funky looking bumper guards from the front bumper which left some minor rusty areas plus the whole bumper desperately needed polishing. I did half with my old standby, paste rubbing compound, and the other half with Quick-Glo standard polish. I will admit to breaking my own rule and using a little 0000 steel wool on the crusty areas where the edges of the bumper guards used to sit, but other than that I just used the two compounds on a dry rag. I did the passenger side with rubbing compound and the drivers side with Quick-Glo. I'm afraid the photos are not too great and the results are far from perfect because my bumper has taken lots of abuse in its lifetime. My subjective opinion is that both compounds polished the same with regards to appearance but the Quick-Glo did the job with a little less muscle needed. The other benefit is that the Quick-Glo automatically adds a coat of wax which you would have to do separately with other polishes. So Quick-Glo gets my vote - bofusmosby, let us know what you think when you use it.

[Dwight Romberger]

Jim,

I purchased Quick-glow today too. I watched the Leno clip and I will be testing it on a truck bumper problem.

Dwight

[Guest straight shooter]

^^^ Let us know how it work out for you.

[Guest bofusmosby]

So Quick-Glo gets my vote - bofusmosby, let us know what you think when you use it.

TexRiv_63, thank you for your testing these items side-by side, and thank you for the great photos. I will be taking before and after shots of the grill pieces that I use this product on. My car is just a driver, and because of my finances, probably always will be. I am not looking for perfection, though I wish it could be. The chrome on some of my grill pieces are better than on other pieces. I'll be able to do a comparison on parts with different stages of deterioration on chrome. I believe that this will give us a better idea of what this stuff will actually do. I understand that ths will not make a piece shine if there is no chrome, but what I am hoping to do is to expose all the chrome that there is left on a piece, while sealing the pits so that the rust does not return for a while. If it works good, then this guys product will be in higher demand.

I know that I used to use steel wool on my bicycles as a kid, but I am sure that there was a bit of scratching going on. I would like to attempt this without the use of an abrasive pad if at all possible. This is a subject that all of us are going to be faced with in time. May as well know the facts and see the results before the need arises. Then, we can make a more educated decision when it comes to buying a product. If the 000 steel wool and wax does just the same, then so be it.

[Rusty_OToole]

I use copper scrubbing pads with Pledge furniture polish. Removes rust but does not scratch like steel wool. Then follow up with Simichrome, FLITZ, Solvol Autosol, or your favorite chrome polish. Finally a couple of coats of car wax will prevent new rust from forming.

Copper pads from the dollar store 3 for a $1 buck.

[Guest bofusmosby]

Rusty

We all have had our own methods over the years, but I believe that it would be a good thing to show what these other products will do, and if they even live up to their claims as stated. I know that copper is a softer metal, so this may be a good method. I for one have never tried it the way you have. If you have any chrome with rust, why don't you take a few before and after photos and post them. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see te results. BTW, the Semichrome polish you mentioned is in my opinion, the best polish out there.

[drwatson]

Lots of opinions on this subjective topic. I still say a case can be made for using SOS pads when one faces a big chrome cleaning task. A new soapy SOS pad and light pressure cuts through big and nasty jobs without scratching, I'll admit some judgement and skill is needed to avoid adding scratches with SOS's.

Ever seen a NOS bumper or big chrome part come out of long storage? not rusty, but it's taken on that greenish haze patina? No advice in this string will bring such a piece back to it's original pristine-ness; the task of rejuvenation and appearance can be made easier with SOS pads when care is used.

A long stored NOS part that's only dusty, dirty?? or quality but dirty chrome?

I like spreading on white wall cleaner with a fine paint brush, water rinse, clean towel dry, ONLY! ..... ....SOS pads, polish Verboten!!

[Rusty_OToole]

Rusty

We all have had our own methods over the years, but I believe that it would be a good thing to show what these other products will do, and if they even live up to their claims as stated. I know that copper is a softer metal, so this may be a good method. I for one have never tried it the way you have. If you have any chrome with rust, why don't you take a few before and after photos and post them. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see te results. BTW, the Semichrome polish you mentioned is in my opinion, the best polish out there.

Geez it's only a $1 buck at the dollar store. Don't you have a can of Pledge or furniture polish around the house? I am not selling anything, if you think it's worth a try gamble a dollar and try it out on an old bicycle rim or something. If it doesn't work use the other 2 pads in the kitchen (there are 3 in a package). What have you got to lose?

[Guest bofusmosby]

A few years back, I tried the steel wool stuff with some chrome cleaner. It made it better, but that doesn't mean that there isn't a better product. Do I know which product is the best? Nope. Do you know? I doubt it either. For the most part, none of us actually know what is the best product to use. That being said, one product may work better than others, in a certain circumstance. Every condition is different. I personally was hoping to find a way to clean chrome with as little abrasion as possible. One of the many things I do is artifact restoration. It is always better to start with the least agressive cleaner, and work your way forward, until the best results are obtained, not to work backwards from a more agressive cleaner. Please forgive my ignorance, but I would think (logically) that a product that is made specifically for removing rust from chrome would be superior to furniture polish and a brillo pad. Since I have never tried this method, if what I try doesn't work, then I'll approach a more agressive method.

[michel88]

This may be "old school" but I have had success using Naval Jelly. I had a motorcycle that was stolen and got it back 3 years later. It had been sitting outside the whole time and had rust on all the chrome. Using Naval Jelly helped remove a lot of the rust and made it look fairly presentable. It's been many years (decades) ago but I think just applied it with a paint brush and let it sit for a while, then rinse off and repeat.

[Restorer32]

End of the day you will still only have slightly better looking pitted chrome that will rust again immediately if given the chance.

[Guest bofusmosby]

Woody, I did buy some Vaval Jerry a while back, and used it on some old chrome pieces. The results were not that good. I also remember using that stuff on my bicycles as a kid, and remembered it doing a good job. As Restore32 eluded to, no type of rust cleaner will bring back the missing chrome, or fill the pits created by the rust. This is so true,. But, I am just looking for a way to get the rust removed, while leaving what chrome is still there in tact. I also want to start with the least aggresive cleaner first, then go from there.

I know that when all is said and done, the chrome needs to be re-plated. Well, at this point in time, I can't see me ever being able to afford the price that this will cost me. In the future, well, maybe. In the mean time, I'd like to get it to look as good as I can.

[jackofalltrades70]

I don't think anyone has mentioned this method, so here I go. Please, if you are going to use this method, use gloves and safety glasses. I don't think that CLR is a horrible product, or dangerous, but I think it worked wonders without working my arms off or damaging anything. I used it and a copper SOS type pad. I then rinsed the part off and then polished with Mother's polish. I didn't spend a whole lot of time and forgot to take close up pictures of "before", but I have included a picture of the front end of the 56 Special I just bought as a driver and you should be able to enlarge the pic to see the rust and grime on the chrome. If you look, you can see my reflexion in the pitted chrome. Not bad and I'll just keep it polished with a good wax to keep moisture out. Matt

[Rusty_OToole]

A few years back, I tried the steel wool stuff with some chrome cleaner. It made it better, but that doesn't mean that there isn't a better product. Do I know which product is the best? Nope. Do you know? I doubt it either. For the most part, none of us actually know what is the best product to use. That being said, one product may work better than others, in a certain circumstance. Every condition is different. I personally was hoping to find a way to clean chrome with as little abrasion as possible. One of the many things I do is artifact restoration. It is always better to start with the least agressive cleaner, and work your way forward, until the best results are obtained, not to work backwards from a more agressive cleaner. Please forgive my ignorance, but I would think (logically) that a product that is made specifically for removing rust from chrome would be superior to furniture polish and a brillo pad. Since I have never tried this method, if what I try doesn't work, then I'll approach a more agressive method.

Not a brillo pad. A copper scrubbing pad. The Pledge acts as a mild cleaner and lubricant to prevent scratches. I have tried many methods over the years and this one is tried and true. There may be better products and better methods I don't know about.

[Guest Skyking]

Lots of opinions on this subjective topic. I still say a case can be made for using SOS pads when one faces a big chrome cleaning task. A new soapy SOS pad and light pressure cuts through big and nasty jobs without scratching, I'll admit some judgement and skill is needed to avoid adding scratches with SOS's.

Ever seen a NOS bumper or big chrome part come out of long storage? not rusty, but it's taken on that greenish haze patina? No advice in this string will bring such a piece back to it's original pristine-ness; the task of rejuvenation and appearance can be made easier with SOS pads when care is used.

Again, I agree............some here say "NO", but a little expertise is needed. You don't just scrub the heck out of it. If the part has a lot of rust nothing but a re-chrome is going to fix it. The damage has already been done.

[TexRiv_63]

I had another update for this thread today. I cleaned up a bunch of old hubcaps to put on Ebay ranging from chrome plated brass to stainless steel. They were not real bad as far as rust but some had plenty of grunge and dirt. I used the Quick-Glo fine compound on them all and it worked very well, they all look great and it did not require a lot of elbow grease.