1957 Buick Engine Compartment Photo's

[1957buickjim]

I am looking for either original or fully restored engine compartment photos to help me in the detailing of my engine compartment. Any shots that also include the fender attachment bolts, hood springs and attachments as well as any and all engine photos would be really appreciated. Thanks for your help.

[Pete Phillips]

If I can get it down-loaded, this one is very close to correct. Belongs to David Anderson of Austin, Texas.

Pete Phillips

[Bhigdog]

My radiator top tank is quite different than that one. Might be due to big or small body. Mines a special..........Bob

[Caballero2]

This photo was of an unrestored low mileage Special. Another is of a Century - restored. A third photo is of a Roadmaster - Restored.

Dan

Edited July 21, 2010 by Caballero2
Added another thumbnail (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

Thanks Dan and Pete. I would like to see the one with power brakes and air. That would be great!

[bhclark]

I need one of those fuel filter brackets!

[buick man]

Here are some photos of how I found my Buick when I bought it. It had been sitting since 1970. Hope this helps.

P.S.

This might be of interest to some of you so I will include the following: Please notice on the first photo, take note of the plug wires with the boots on them. They were brand new when put on and then just sat with the car. When cleaned up the entire wire set including distributor cap looked as they should soft, shiny and new. Same went for the heater hoses. If you look close you will notice the air cleaner has the factory original "A/C Heavy Duty ..." instructions on the air cleaner. I found upon gently cleaning that this is not a "Decal" pasted onto the air cleaner as many have on their "Restored" cars, but was rather put on by a silk screen type method and is integrated into the original black paint. Also it is located on the driver's side of the air cleaner and not the passenger's side. The tag on the air cleaner horn is a service tag from 1970. When you open up the driver's door there is a service tag from the buick service department with the same date on that as well, July 1970.

Also note the power steering pump. The belt drive is not painted black like you see at shows. If this is any reference painting them black is incorrect. It is cadium plated with clear metal silver from factory. The brackets are painted Buick Green. The Moraine Power Brake Assist is cadimium plated metal silver. The brake resevoir was painted black as original. The front fan hub is cadmium clear metal silver the same as the power steering belt drive.

Just a few little details to note for reference. The ribbed upper radiator hose is incorrect for O.E.M. The heater hoses came with red strpes or blue strips for that era to be correct.

Notice radiator top. This is the correct radiator for a Non-Air Condiitoned Buick on all model lines for 1957. If it is ripped and square like , then it's for an Air Conditioned optioned car. Take note however, as some 1959 & 60 non air conditioned cars had ribbed square like radiator tops as well, and could be mounted right in place of the original "round top" 1957 radiator. How do I know this? Because in 1973 I swapped a 1960 non air conditioned Buick Lesabre radiator into my 1957 Buick Century Cabellero Station Wagon and away I went! It was plug n play before that term was invented.

The mileage on the car reads 60,040. The last service was in July 1970 and the mileage on the service tag reads 59,400.

The battery was toast and was missing the hold-down ring. Other than that the car is complete and 100% original.

This car is a Buick Roadmaster 2-Door Coupe Model 76A meaning it does not have the 3-piece rear window like the Model 76R, but has the stainless bars running down the trunk like all the Roadmasters but not on the roof line like the Model 75R. 2-door Coupe

David

Edited August 1, 2010 by buick man (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

David..thanks a million. What a help in trying ti get the right finishes on the components. Mine is a model 48 with 18476 miles on it original. You are spot on about the air cleaner. one curious question that i have is are the fender attachment bolts visible in the engine compartment plated (silver cad) or painted (ie body color). That has been bugging me for a while. Also, can I get a picture of what you are talking about with the fan hub? I am looking at putting power steering on the car (have all the parts, getting ready to rebuild/restore). any help there would be appreciated. thanks again! Jim

[lancemb]

I also have a low mileage 57 with an air cleaner wearing the original silk-screened label, and it is located on the passenger side of the "nose". Therefore, at least 2 different placements are apparantly correct.

[buick5563]

Fender attaching bolts were never painted. Either have them zinc plated or paint them silver.

[Bhigdog]

Fender attaching bolts were never painted. Either have them zinc plated or paint them silver.

Or you can bead blast them and spray with clear lacquer. Cheaper than plating, better looking than silver paint. If they are rusted and pitted start with new ones. I don't know if the square washers are available new or repro but you can make your own with a minimum of tooling. I think I posted somewhere on the forum a "how to".........Bob

Edited August 1, 2010 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[buick man]

Mike is very correct. The same goes for the fan pulley hub. Just like the power steering belt hub. A clear metal plating. Thanks for the input regarding the air cleaner "A/C Heavy Duty .... " silk screening. I bet if we try here, we can find that Buick either changed the locations during the course of the production run or each plant placed them differently?? Mine was built at the South Gate Plant in Southern California. I know how many of my model were built but I do not know how many of my model were built at the South Gate Plant. My car was produced most likely mid to just later 1956. This might have some bearing on placements of things.

David

Edited August 3, 2010 by buick man (see edit history)

[buick5563]

Or you can bead blast them and spray with clear lacquer. Cheaper than plating, better looking than silver paint. If they are rusted and pitted start with new ones.

I've done both of these options as well.

[buick man]

Not to hi-jack your post here Jim, but in regards to painting the valve covers, intake manifold, valley cover as everyone seems to be doing etc..., I found that after taking everything off of my engine and cleaning the aforementioned parts they look original and OK in my book. Sure there is some small spots on the valve covers or here and there on the other parts where the paint has chipped off, but the overall the paint looks good. When I also Orange cleaned the block all the grease came off and the block looks just as good as well. The question I am kicking around is this. There is a company that sells a clear coat engine spray on and is guaranteed to stick. I am thinking about just cleaning everything up and applying this stuff on the spots where the paint is off so it does not rust and putting everything back on and together. It will not have that spot on brand new look, but it will look original and clean and the paint is not faded out.

You can only be original once and when you repaint everything it no longer is.

Let me know what you guys think about this. I will try and post some photo's this week as well.

David

[bhclark]

I'm with you David...my problem is seems like every engine I have was touched up at some point in the 70's with Ford Blue.....

[buick man]

Hey Brian. Your right I have seen too many Buicks with this mustang blue engine paint on them. Anyways, I will post some photos this week and let everyone give their vote as to what they think.

David

[Glassesguy]

Brian: My 65 Lesabre has that Ford blue too. Even in places where it shouldn't be!

[1957buickjim]

Hi Guys! Thanks for the information. I have found that Bill Hirsch sells the exact color engine paint for the 57. It is available in quarts, but matches perfectly. As for the bolts, I have not found where I can buy original style bolts, but Mr. G's Fasteners out of Ft. Worth TX has silver cad plated bolts with pretty close to the original square washer on them. Not cheap, but better than paint and trying to strip and plate the originals that are most likely over torqued and will crack into parts when reassembling the fenders / front end. As for the Air Cleaner Decal, too bad someone didn't come out with one that is like a screened one instead of a large shiny sticker. My air cleaner is in pretty good shape on the body, but the air horn is in need of amajor sanding and repaint and getting it to match the factory finish may be impossible. Any ideas there? Thanks.

[Bhigdog]

If you will be showing your car the ones I see in Mr. G's catalog may or may not get gigged for a deduction. They are different enough from GM's distinctive square ones to be something the judges notice. They may or may not care. I know I lost a point at the Batavia nationals because the back/inside of my grill was not painted argent silver. The judges couldn't figure out if it was actually painted or not since the grill is naturally matt silver anyway. They finally asked me if I painted the back side of my grill. Not knowing if it was supposed to be or not I told them no. They gigged me a point. I think I still ended up with 398.

If I would have been thinking I just would have declined to answer and let them figure it out without actually touching the car. So, forewarned is forearmed. Good luck with your restoration............Bob

[g-g-g0]

Sorry to jump in on this post but a related question. Is the distributor black or Buick Green?? I am guessing Green based on what Pete has told me about other parts being/not being a part of the engine.

Edited September 6, 2010 by g-g-g0
Correct spelling (see edit history)

[Caballero2]

As for the fender bolts, I believe the same ones are used to secure the pan to the housing of the Dynaflow transmission. Usually they are in nice condition after hiding under years of paint, grease, oil and dirt.

Dan

'57 - 76C

'57 - 56R

Edited September 10, 2010 by Caballero2 (see edit history)

[lancemb]

This car is probably a good guide:

http://forums.aaca.org/f117/1957-buick-super-21k-original-miles-288598.html

[Caballero2]

Hey, Bhigdog! Go to...

1957 Buick Super 21K Original Miles Mint

[Bhigdog]

Hey, Bhigdog! Go to...

1957 Buick Super 21K Original Miles Mint

Yes???????

[1957buickjim]

Dan, If I post some pictures of my compartment as is, could you take pictures of the same areas on your car (either one) so I can get an idea of a 400pt car engine compartment? Just a question. Trying to get this right and not getting alot of detailed data. Let me know. Thanks. Jim

[Caballero2]

I will do my best, but you should know the BCA judging is not correct in all aspects of the '57 model year. If you want to score a 400 point, you will have to make a couple of compromises. That part gets under my skin a bit, but I have learned to accept it. - Dan

[1957buickjim]

Thanks Dan. I can imagine that the rules may be "fluid". What issues did you have? Not that I am ever going to make it to a 400pt car (rather have a 300+ point driver, I guess), but you never know.

Attached are some pictures I took of the areas that I am not sure of. I could definetly use your help in trying to get it correct (as I can). Some things I know, such as hose clamps (have the correct ones, just haven't had time to install), but small stuff, like proper bolts for part attachment, plating (which has been discussed on fender inner bolts (sq.head)) but what about the large round serrated attachment bolts - plated or painted? Where were they used? Steering gear box? Colors, painted, etc. Things like that, to which someone said "the devil is in the details". Very true.

Any help or critique you can provide will be gladly appreciated. Thanks for your help here.

Regards,

[buick5563]

That is a really nice looking car, Jim. Some of the things that jumped out at me are: the dash pot bracket is supposed to be green (green bolt) and of course the fuel hose at the front of the carb shouldn't be there (fuel line should be green as well). Obviously the thermostat housing should be green, as well as the coil holder. All of the colors/ finishes appear to be close, if not actually correct. The hood insulation hold down is supposed to be plated (I had mine zinc plated) not rusty.

I'm not sure about the last pic as I'm a 55 guy and that appears to be 57 specific stuff.

I'm sure I missed other stuff, I will let somebody else show off now...

[1957buickjim]

Mike, thanks for the reply. Those are the things that I am looking for. Any help is really appreciated. Got those changes on my list of things to do. Looking for more to add to the list. Thanks again. Jim

[1957buickjim]

Mike..question on the fuel line? From the product school manual, it looks as if it should be a rubber fuel line from the pump to the carb, not steel. Is that correct? thanks for your help again. Jim

[buick5563]

At the fuel pump there should be a 8" (ish) rubber line to a steel line that then goes to a fuel filter, then to the carb. On a 55, there is a pancake filter on the back of the carb. It looks like there was an online filter that somebody removed and put that rubber line on your car. Not sure where or what style 57's had, sorry.

[Bhigdog]

On a 57 Special there is a glass settling bowl type filter that attaches to the bracket that the air filter bolts to. I see you have the bracket. Rubber line from filter to carb. short rubber from steel line to filter inlet. One of the Buick manuals detail set up with a pix. Don't have time to search for it now.........Bob

[1957buickjim]

Thanks Bob for the description. I will look in the manuals for the pix. Your help is appreciated. Jim

[Caballero2]

The fuel sediment bowl was optional and had a special bracket that carried the bowl and tied the front of the air filter. The photo Figure 2-1 on page 3 of the Buick Product School Manual 1957 shows a rubber hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor.

In the same manual, p61, there are good photographs of the distributor and the hold down clamp along with showing engine color for the road draft tube (also shown on p4).

Before you guys hit me for some of these, note that I must backtrack to correct some of these same details. Along with 1957buickjim, I too am getting an education on some of the details he has questions about.

Dan

'57-76C

'57-56R

Edited September 16, 2010 by Caballero2 (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

I looked in the product service bulletin and there is a great picture on page 36 showing the fuel line set up with the fuel filter. It is shown for all carbs on the 57 along with the length of the lines. This forum is great for digging out the details! Thanks for your help guys..keep digging! Jim

[Bhigdog]

Yup, that's the pix I was refering to. Sorry I didn't have time to dig it out..............Bob

[Caballero2]

David..thanks a million. What a help in trying ti get the right finishes on the components. Mine is a model 48 with 18476 miles on it original. You are spot on about the air cleaner. one curious question that i have is are the fender attachment bolts visible in the engine compartment plated (silver cad) or painted (ie body color). That has been bugging me for a while. Also, can I get a picture of what you are talking about with the fan hub? I am looking at putting power steering on the car (have all the parts, getting ready to rebuild/restore). any help there would be appreciated. thanks again! Jim

Here is a photo of fasteners taken from an original (with good confidence level) 1957 Buick. The one on the left is black cad, the other two is clear cad. The dark one was used on the fender to inner fender sheet metal additionally the horn and front crossbrace and attaching sheet metal. The center screw was used to attach the hood to hinges and fender to the hood hinge. The one on the right (slightly larger) was used to attach the fender to body at the 'A' pillar.

I have seen the smaller serated washer used to cover the slot where the square would not. Also the smaller serated washer is used to attach the trunk lid to the hinge.

[1957buickjim]

Thanks Dan! So all attaching square washers bolts were black cad across the whole car, if I read you right. And all the serrated washer bolts were clear (silver) - not painted. That helps a whole lot. thanks for taking the time to verify from your original 57. Much appreciated. Crazy how we can spend our time talking about finishes on bolts and washers, and still be extremely interested! Ha Ha Jim

[buick man]

Hey guys as I stated on my last reply to this post that I would post some photos of my engine bay after cleanup. Well here they are, better late than never. Here are some photos of my engine bay after I took bottle(s) of Orange Blaster to it followed by spray bottle(s) full of distilled water as a wash. Then just wiped things down. This took hours!

So here it is with just the grime removed showing the original factory paint and everything else! I don't know by the way things turned out, my thoughts are I am not going to repaint the engine, just clearcoat where the paint has chipped off. The photos show the water pump, water manifold and timing chain cover after I took them off the car. I will have to paint these, so if I go this route I will have to color match these three items to the rest of the original engine color and paint them. Which can be done. That is why they call this a hobby. But what do you guys think? Look at my dirty engine photos the day I bought the car as shown on page 1 of this post. So can I get away with keeping everything original? So let me know - Repaint or Leave It!

P.S.: The last photo without the air cleaner shows the carburetor. It was dirty but after a soaking in the orange blaster and some lacquer thinner on a rag this AFB 2507S Aluminum Carter 4-bbl looks as good as new for just a cleaning. Of course I will be rebuilding it since the car has not been driven since 1974 or so. I plan to prep, prime the re-spray the fender/wheel hubs and front grill areas factory satin black. Also I sent away just for the hell of it, for some Hersh Buick Green 1953-66 engine paint. Not even close. It is much lighter and a different hue utilizing a light green rather than a blue/turquoise hew to it as is shown on my engine. They told me this is their match. So I will be sending it back to them this week, perhaps they can match it to something else!

Edited October 5, 2010 by buick man (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

Dave, the pics are great!! could you send them to my email address? jpickard@theaegroup.com. I am curious on the engine paint issue that you have with the color. When I painted mine, which was original, the Hirsch paint was a perfect match. Wonder if the paint was slightly different between the assembly plants? Mine was built in KC. Where was yours built?