Roger Zimmermann Posted August 3, 2023 Author Share Posted August 3, 2023 Once all the rings were soft soldered, I could mill the excess material and soften the edges between the grooves. The illusion to have openings should be more or less right. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 6, 2023 Author Share Posted August 6, 2023 The air cleaners were finished by adding the cover on the top. As first glance, an easy part to turn on the lathe but...by better looking, there are fins! Way before the 1949 model, Cadillac had already fins. I suppose they were here for the look, nothing else, but complicated my task. On the real car, the cover is attached to the body with two nuts; on the model, they are fake because all elements are either soft soldered or glued. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 6, 2023 Share Posted August 6, 2023 Amazing, simply amazing! 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted August 6, 2023 Share Posted August 6, 2023 That job looks more real than the factory one. I knew this was the way you were heading, but I am admiringly pleased, nonetheless. Attaboy, Roger. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted August 13, 2023 Share Posted August 13, 2023 Excellent Roger! The air filters look FACTORY ! ! ! You seem to get the parts perfect every time (to our eyes). I have a question; In the photos all of the brass parts are sanded and smoothed. But in the pics, they show a "scratchy" finish. I realize that the camera shots are close ups but how fine is the sandpaper you use for the final sand before you shoot them in primer? Obviously, the finished parts do not show any sanding marks, but I was curious as to how fine you sand the parts before you paint? We see the parts after you complete the assembly and before it is painted. The final part (painted) shows NO sanding marks what soever and to the camera are stunning. Just curious. One other question; Do you have a service there in Switzerland that produces the miniature decals for the various parts on the engine? OR do you do those yourself with your camera and printer? There is a guy here who scales the decals down to the scale that is needed for the model (1:24 is as small as he goes) and they are pretty good. There are guys out there that are talented with their computers, cad programs and printers that do all of thoes items themselves. Sadly, I was not in the same age group that these young whizes are in and I am too old a dog to learn those new tricks. IF I were a serious modeler and were doing this daily, that would be a different story. But doing it once every six monoths or so, the retention for the process slips. 😞 Randy 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 26, 2023 Author Share Posted August 26, 2023 Usually the grain 280 is good enough for part getting some paint. However, most of the parts which are assembled (or not) on the frame are far from be ready for paint, therefore the sanding marks are are seeing. Depending of the part, I'm using also the 400 grain. When I needed decals for the Mark II, I found somebody in Switzerland doing that; he got the job. Somebody from the Scale model forum offered to make the decals; when I needed them, he just never answered! Like you, I have no intension to get into that business. Too much to learn and machines to buy. Between the many trouble I had with two 1956 Hydramatic transmissions, I found some time to begin the bumpers. Except with some basic dimensions Alex D. gave me, all is done with comparisons against some (hopefully) given dimensions. I bought recently over the net 1932 drawings from a V-16; this was a waste. The drawings are inexact, therefore not helpful at all. The chromed bumpers are attached to the bars screwed to the frame. Those bars are made with spring steel; they can resist to some brutal encounters...On the other side, the rather thick brass I'm using will not have the same characteristic! there is a curved bar which is missing now at the front; I'm letting it open until I may have some basic dimension to get the bumper itself right. The rear bar is attached to the frame with a very nice casting which is acting also as a support for the luggage rack. Thanks to many pictures I have from this casting, I should get it right. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 29, 2023 Author Share Posted August 29, 2023 It took probably three more time to set the dimensions from the caps than to made them. That's what happens when I have no dimension to compare with what I want to do! Anyway, I think I got it more or less right. Those caps are setting the width of the luggage rack, but not its length. Maybe Alex D will chime in... When I did the frame, I was not aware of many details and did things without to care too much. This lack of comprehension is biting me now: there are four treaded holes into the rear cross member; those holes are needed to attach the front hinges of the luggage rack. Those holes have two flaws: they should be for 0.8 mm screws and not 1 mm as I did. The second error: they are not parallel to the car's axis, this can be noticed by looking at the latest pictures. I will have to rework those four holes soon... 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Roger, as always, your craftmanship is amazing. The luggage rack is 2 pieces at 40“ wide, and 6” and 12” in length. Total length of 19”. I hope this is what you need and I have attached some other pictures that may be helpful. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 30, 2023 Author Share Posted August 30, 2023 Alex, thanks a lot for the dimensions which are very welcome and pictures. I have however a doubt about the width over 40": according to the shop manual, the distance at the rear of the frame is between rivet's centers 36 1/4". The frame itself is at the rear about 38.2". the supports for the rear springs are riveted on the side of the frame and, according to my calculation, the bolts to attach the rear bumper are at 39.8". The supports I just did are offset compared to the bumper's bolts. I short, "my" dimension for the rack will be 41.3". My explanation may be difficult to understand; tomorrow I'm making a drawing explaining my concern better. The supports on which the front rack is hinged on are different depending the body style. Maybe I right if I'm doing the supports shown in the attached picture. The pictures car must be a 5-passenger sedan if I'm able to interpret the parts list correctly! By the way, it seems that you are not looking at your PMs. Recently, I asked for two dimension confirmation for the front and rear bumpers(I explained in the PM why I was unsure about those dimensions). I did the support bar for the rear, I will soon begin the secondary for the front.... Anyway, thanks again for the help! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Alex, your car is beautiful from what I can see here. And, in a strange way, it's a wonderful 'preview' of what Roger will, surely thrill us by creating in miniature brass marvels. The artistry of each creation, full-size or model, is apparent, and bring great pleasure to those who are viewing the items. Thank you both, gentlemen for the treat. I am humbled. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 7 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said: By the way, it seems that you are not looking at your PMs. Recently, I asked for two dimension confirmation for the front and rear bumpers(I explained in the PM why I was unsure about those dimensions). I did the support bar for the rear, I will soon begin the secondary for the front.... Anyway, thanks again for the help! Roger, I thought I had supplied the bumper dimensions with the air filter dimensions. The front bumper is 4 inches x 68 inches, the rear is 4 inches x 73 inches. My car is the 5-passenger sedan with the 140-inch wheelbase. The upper mounting brackets do appear to be different. Allways glad to help you out in any way I can. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 That's correct, Alex, I got the bumper dimensions with the air filter dimensions. Again, thanks for that! I sent a PM on August 13, asking if my estimates are correct. Those dimensions are about the distance between the front bumper support and the bumper bar at the middle of the car and the distance between the rear of the body and bumper bar. I have many pictures from both locations but none which are right from above to facilitate some calculation. The second attached drawing is, I hope, a better explanation about the discrepancy between your 40" for the width of the rack and the result of my construction with all errors which are included. I'm just amazed that I could do an error over 1.3" which is translating at the scale by 2.75 mm (or a tad over 0.1"). The brace rod supporting the rack is attached inside the clamp for the trunk rack and bumper, as called in the parts list, and must be parallel to the rack. On the other side, I understand that the manufacturer from the coffer as pictured choose an easy dimension and not something odd. It is attached from the underside from the rack? It's looking good! Is the pictured car above your car? Once you sent me pictures from a red car, showing the tire chain box. However you did not write whom belong that car! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 Roger, I did not receive an August 13, PM. If you resend it with some kind of sketch with the dimensions you need, I will gladly fill in the blanks. Will also try to verify the dimensions below. The trunk rack is 40”. Add ½” on each side for the brace at the rack and another ½” at each end at the bumper rack support, this will give you 40 “ between bumper rack supports. The above picture is of my 5-passenger sedan. Pictures of a red car showing a tire chain box was not from me. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted August 31, 2023 Author Share Posted August 31, 2023 Depending with what you are looking at the forum, the numbers I wrote at the drawing above my sketch cannot be seen. I'm attaching now just the drawing from above with two dimension I'm not sure: 6 1/4 at the front and 9" at the rear. For the rack width, I have to believe you: you have the real car, I have just a small replica! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 Roger, for the front, I have 5.5 inches to the bumper. The rear would be 8.5 inches from the fuel tank cover to the bumper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted September 1, 2023 Author Share Posted September 1, 2023 Super Alex, many thanks! You can see how estimates can be inaccurate! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted October 5, 2023 Share Posted October 5, 2023 Hey Roger, just wanted to check in and see if you have any updates on the chassis project. Miss seeing your incredible workmanship. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 5, 2023 Author Share Posted October 5, 2023 Thanks for asking, Martin! No panic: 2 weeks vacation, 3 1956/60 transmissions to overhaul with some difficulties, one '57 steering gear overhauling are taking some time! I was not totally inactive on the scale model, but I have nothing to show for the moment. Just maybe an answer people asked many times: what kind of body? My choice is a Fisher convertible coupe like on the atached picture. Someone from the Cadillac club is restoring the same body which will help somewhat with dimensions and details. Patience, patience! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted October 6, 2023 Share Posted October 6, 2023 I look at that profile and after a short while, I need to remind myself to breathe again- 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted October 12, 2023 Share Posted October 12, 2023 Roger, I have been missing for a while. A death in the family and I have been traveling back to St. Louis for family matters for most of August and September. But I am back now. Getting the trunk rack right is puzzling. Did Fisher Body put out the trunk rack for all models or was that up to the coach maker to provide them for their body fabrication? I would think that the location of the mounts would be the same on all models? That may be erroneous on my part. Bravo on the body selection ! ! ! As I said in my previous posting, there are a few of these beauties here in the San Diego area. At the major car shows, we see two or three pop up. The most stunning model was the 30 or 31 (can't remember the year) Roadster. It took "Best of Show" at the La Jolla Motorcar Classic a couple years back. Just Stunning. It is black and silver and loaded with the most lusterous chromium I have ever seen on any classic car. There is also a two tone green roadster around. I cannot wait to see you fabricating the body for this stunning chassis. We ALL look forward to seeing that process, Roger. It would have been so cool to see you on a YouTube channel building your models. Starting with the Avanti. But YouTube is a newer program that has only been around for the last decade. There is a guy who takes "off the shelf" Tamiya and Hasa kits (plastic) and builds them way "over the top" with his detailing of the car. An artist just like you but in plastic and he fabricates the upgraded items from scratch. His models are stunning. If you have time, you can see his work. He is A4 Garage on YouTube. Hes done a Mercedez 300SL Gullwing, a Citroen DS21 (stunning), Jaguar XKE just to name a few. Well worth the time to see him in action. They may not be in the same league as yours Roger, but they are beautifuly constructed with enhancements that set them apart and elevate them from regular models. However, in your field of scratch built models, no one compares to your work. Period. You are the master and we all cannot wait till your next posting to see what, and how, you have fabricated the next element of your model. Explaining the problem and what you are up against and how you solve it shows us all that you are indeed human (from earth) and not on loan from another galexy. 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 14, 2023 Author Share Posted October 14, 2023 Well, Randy, you did not miss a lot from my side: I was busy with other things. Fisher or Fleetwood (bodies are different) put the trunk rack for cars which had the spare wheels in the front fenders. Obviously, the cars with the spare wheel at the back had no trunk rack. That's the scenario I suppose correct, but there can be exceptions... Time is flying! After vacation, transmissions overhauling (Hydramatic 1956 and 1960), I found the time to continue with the front and rear bumpers. It may not be quite visible on the pictures, the metal is not flat but gently convex. The supports were done with spring steel, allowing for some flexibility. I have however the impression that those bumpers were more for the look as really solid; maybe I'm wrong. The screw in the centers is there until the real parts are done. In between, I had a good contact with Paul Ayres who is restoring a 1933 convertible, the same body (V-8, V-12 and V-16 has the same bodies, only the front end is different) as I intend to begin once. As those cars had a lot of wood in the body's construction, it would be fun to make the floor with the same material: easier, not so heavy but will create a lot of dust! 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 The last small part was added on both bumpers. They are now ready, but don't have yet the finish for plating. I'm now beginning the rear luggage rack. Easy part? Not quite because both sides are visible. A stamping would be great, but the tooling too complex for just one piece. I will have to be creative... 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Roger Zimmermann said: . I will have to be creative... I have been following your builds for more than 10 years, and you got to be one of the most creative I have ever come across. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 Thanks Alex, nice to see you here again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 26, 2023 Author Share Posted October 26, 2023 I began with the smaller part from the luggage rack as the larger one is more complex. I did the base on which four apertures were done. The, inserts were pushed into the apertures and soft soldered. The inserts on the attached picture will be used for the next part. A much thicker piece of brass could have been shaped to look good when extended, but without the details at the back. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted October 31, 2023 Author Share Posted October 31, 2023 When the brain is disconnected, damages will happen! By doing the second part for the package tray, I was certainly dreaming: I assumed that the elongated holes have the same dimensions on both parts. When I wanted to begin the inner holes, I saw that something is not right, the space between the inner holes are too large. By looking at the various pictures I have from that package tray, I saw that the holes for the larger part are indeed wider and the space between them are the same on both parts. At first glance they all look the same, but not if measured. This is one picture from an original tray and below both parts I did. I simulated the inner holes with black paint; the wider space between them is obvious. One more part for the horror museum! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 Roger, I guess that the spring steel bumpers were the original "5 MPH" bumpers? Being of spring steel, slow speed "bumps" would not damage the car, other than marring the chromium finish on the bumpers. A friend of mine, Andy Lee in Arkansas, is the guru on the thirties GM cars. He related to me a story about his 38 Chevrolet with spring steel bumpers. He told me while driving a tie rod end gave way. He was traveling around 40 MPH and lost the steering. The car ran off of the right side of the road and took out 38 guard rail posts (wooden) before encountering a larger post, which stopped the car. He said that the bumper was only scratched, however, the cable between the guard rails did a number on his fenders. But he did get stopped without going over the cliff into a deep ravine. 40 MPH and the bumper was OK? Wow. Couldn't say that about these plastic cars of today. Roger, I don't imagine that the Cadillac will be subjected to an impact test but it is great to see you duplicating these bumpers exactly like the originals. The bigger headache is the luggage rack. But with so many watching, it is nice that members are chiming in with drawings, measurments etc. to get over that hurdle. As always it is just amazing to see you overcoming obstacles and getting the part(s) made. Great work, Roger. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 4, 2023 Author Share Posted November 4, 2023 Well, I hope that the bumpers will reflect the original ones as even with many pictures, nothing replaces when one can see in person the thing to replicate. This was one of the experiences I had with the Mark II while doing the wood form for the body. I had to see the real car several times to have the shape more or less correct. With bumpers made with brass, an impact test would be a disaster! I can put my other models on the head or tail without harming the bumpers; this will not be possible with this model... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 Finally, the larger grille from the rack is finished. I put a light coat of primer as raw brass is getting oxidized rather quickly. Now, the fun will begin with the hinges and other small details. The attached pictures are showing both sides from the grilles; some finishing will be needed for the final paint. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 17, 2023 Author Share Posted November 17, 2023 The emblem for the luggage rack I'm doing now is a perfect example for a 3-D printer. I don't have one and never will, so I had to be creative to shape the various parts. I did first the ring which will be inserted into the rack, then the "V". As I did an error, I had to begin a second one...Then came the question: how can I do both numbers? I began with the "1", taking a bit brass much larger than the finish item. I adjusted that cube on the V by filing a groove and then by reducing the cube's dimension till the "1" emerged. Of course, it could not stand alone on the V because the base was small and irregular. It was then the turn for the "6" by using the same process. The holes for that number were drilled with a 0.4 mm bit and a very thin file removed the unneeded metal between the holes. Fortunately, the "6" had a larger base and could be silver soldered on the "V". A fixture was made to temporarily attach the "1" to the "6" and was also silver soldered. Fortunately, both numbers are pointing in the right direction; the space between them is just a bit too wide. Of course, the numbers are not protruding as much as on the pictures; they were that tall for ease of manutention. This will be corrected before the ring will be soldered. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 LOVE that luggage rack and emblem! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 17, 2023 Author Share Posted November 17, 2023 Me too, if only it was not so difficult to do! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie9fingers Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 Amazing !!!! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 Roger that's a helluva neat bit of work, and you amazed me with it again. But, the sugar-coating on the last post is that wonderful word: manutention. Long a lover of the seldom used words we have at our disposal, it saddens me to see so many left to wither and die. You resurrected a great one there. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 18, 2023 Author Share Posted November 18, 2023 Thanks Pat! Indeed, I intended to write that rather small parts are difficult to work on them just held with the fingers; I hoped that this word would explain it. I don't know if everybody understood my meaning of that word! Anyway, the shrinking vocabulary is not affecting only young people: in the US, there is an older guy who has about 500 words at his disposal... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 19, 2023 Author Share Posted November 19, 2023 The luggage rack emblem is now ready. I'm not sure if I will be able to polish it more for plating. Due to the shape, it could be wise to let it plate with nickel instead of chrome. With the chrome, the outer ring will be shiny, but the chrome may not reach the second ring nor the sides of the numbers. The plater will tell me... Now, I can continue with the various rack's hinges. 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie9fingers Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 That turned out great 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Now all I need is that giant quarter! Truly amazing work, Roger! 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Don Posted November 25, 2023 Share Posted November 25, 2023 Hello Roger! Thank you for your link to your Avanti threads! -I had known of it of course, but I guess I had only known an abbreviated version. As is this accounting of your beautiful Cadillac! (it seems that there is more posted here than on our other forum?) (not always easy to upload pictures there) Well again, I find your work inspiring and think I'll continue with my Bugatti, and, since I did amass so much material on the Model A? -I'll start anew with that one too! Question? When you run your vacuum pump, does your elevation affect it any? I live at "Sea level" and can with a brand-new pump get 29" Hg. Right now, with my old pump, I still get 26" to 27", and usually I'll transfer whatever I'm pouring into a pressure tank with 55 - 60psi, or about 4 atmospheres, to squish any bubbles back into solution. Just wondering. I do not expect to climb any mountains while pouring resins! Nice to see your work! Again! Don 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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