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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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I had a difficult time to continue with the grille frame. I had to determine the exact pitch required for the grille inserts in a manner I can do slots consistency  on my small milling machine. Then, I wanted to make the 5 "teeth"; I was unsure if the sides are perpendicular to the grille frame or parallel to the axis of the car. A quick visit to the Mark II storage confirmed that all the elements are in the same axis than the car, adding some complication for the construction.

One I had the 5 "teeth" done, I silver soldered the one in the middle. Once it was soldered, I noted that this element was not quite in the middle! I took some material away on one side; some brass will be added on the other side to have the correct width.

The next problem was to silver solder the remaining "teeth" on the frame with a precise space between them. I have the impression that I got the dimension I calculated with a precision of +/- 0.1 mm. The future will tell! 

The first picture is showing the grille frame with the mouldings which will be attached on the separations; the second picture is showing the back; note the slots to locate the grille inserts.

 

 

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Some news from the grille. I began early this week the first insert, first by cutting enough small brass bands for the vertical elements. The idea was to mill slots into which the horizontal element would be locked in. The problem was that due to the curved shape, my cutting tool had a too small diameter. I tried with a diamond disc, knowing that the slots would be not as precise as with a cutting tool but I had no choice.

After checking for the correct pitch, I did the slots to about 25 pieces. Then, I had to continue with the horizontal elements. Here, I could use my cutting tool because the bands are at an angle. Due to that, I had to fabricate a tool to clamp 4 bands at once. When I had enough bands for one insert, I trimmed them and adjusted them into one aperture from the grille frame.

Then came the tedious job to assemble all elements together and silver solder them.

Since a few weeks, I have a new tool: a small gun for a silver solder paste. The quantity is not huge: 8 grams! This gun allows putting a very small quantity of the product on the joints; once done, a quick heat soldered all grille elements. An impossible task with a rod: too much solder would flow on the part, requiring an impossible rework due to the size of the square holes.

The first picture is showing the grille frame (you should know it now!) and the first insert which will need more trimming. On the second picture, the insert is pushed into the frame. It will be soft soldered when all inserts are done.

This first insert is far from perfect; I just hope than the 5 other ones will be not worse!

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Thanks John and Martin!

John: no, the grille is not perfect, but perfection is elusive...For example, the grille should be .25 mm thick in front. I used .3 mm thick brass which is an increase of 20% . I could used .2 mm thick material but then I would have trouble with my cutting tools: the slots would be too wide. I had to make a compromise; probably only someone who knows those cars perfectly would notice the difference.

Martin: only a retiree can do that. I had almost a week to do that insert; there are 5 more! Sometimes I'm cross eyed and for sure crazy!

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Now that I'm sure I can do the grille the way I imagined long ago, I can show how it's done. One of the requests is to have the same distance between the various elements and this pitch must be doable on my simple machine. The horizontal pitch is 1.575 mm (0.13125"); the vertical one is 1.625 (0.135417"), dimensions I can more or less reproduce.

Then, I'm cutting bands of brass about 21 mm in length and 3 mm wide for the vertical elements and 3.5 mm wide for the horizontal ones. To mill the slots in the horizontal elements I had to make a special tool which can be seen on the first picture; 4 elements are clamped together. The slots with this cutting tool are sharp.

 

Unfortunately, as you can see on the second picture, I could not use that tool due to the convex shape, but a larger disc covered with diamond grit. With that tool, the slots are not very sharp and a bit wider as desired. In this case, 3 bands are clamped together.

 

Once the slots are done, the bands are cleaned and roughly trimmed. Then, the horizontal elements are trimmed to fit into the grille aperture, picture 3. I did that too for the vertical ones; for the remaining inserts, I will trim them after the bands are silver soldered.

 

Then the assembly is done, picture 4. Once all is OK, the "miracle" silver soldering is used, picture 5. This small gun is allowing to put a very small quantity of paste on each joint. Once this is done, the assembly is heated with the torch. If a joint was missed, it's not a problem to add some paste at this location.

 

After that, the insert is trimmed and adjusted to his own aperture.

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Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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When I was taking pictures and dimensions at the Swiss owner, I noticed that the distance between the horns and the grille or radiator cradle  was tight. As I cannot pretend that the model is 100 % accurate, I had to check if the grille could still be installed or if I had to modify the horns. Fortunately there is no interference between grille and the TH horn. The LH horn should be OK too. 

The three grille inserts are partly soft soldered to the frame; the fourth one will be ready soon.

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As awesome as the pics & descriptions are, I doubt I'm the only one who'd love to see your work in person, Roger ... or, for that matter, watching you build other models, too!!! ;)

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)
"Happiness is something we create" __ Sugarland __ 'Something More'
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As awesome as the pics & descriptions are, I doubt I'm the only one who'd love to see your work in person, Roger ... or, for that matter, watching you build other models, too!!! ;)

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)
"Happiness is something we create" __ Sugarland __ 'Something More'

 

Roger has been discussing building an amphitheater around his workbench and selling tickets. I imagine it would be a sellout from day one. :D

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Finally the grille is ready. Really ready? well, not quite: there will be the tedious work to clean the grille. There are about 650 squares; each one must be reworked with a file to remove the burrs. Then, the front fenders will go away once more; time to drill the remaining threaded holes for the grille attachment to the body as well as finish the hood lip and attach it to the hood with screws. This work requires the removal from the hood which in turn can only be removed when the fenders are away.

When the front clip is away, I will do front springs (the ones installed now are so weak that they don't support the weight) as the weight on the front axle will not vary much more.

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Roger it looks great and you can sure see all the work that went into it. I've a question though as to how you see it when you look at it. I've done a lot of complex things that with some luck most had turned out well beyond my expectations. When I have one of these moments I find myself taking a moment now and again looking at the results and am amazed that I had actually created/accomplished/performed the end result. Do you have moments like that looking back at what you've created/accomplished here or with your Avanti? You really have some creative skills, I'm a fan anyway. Scott...

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Roger has been discussing building an amphitheater around his workbench and selling tickets. I imagine it would be a sellout from day one. :D

 

LOL!!!!  Heck, he could probably even sell standing room only tickets ... & STILL have a waiting list years long. ;)

 

Roger ... I sure wish I was living at the next door!  My goodness mercy me, I'd so come right in that open door to see your work.

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic  (awaiting new owner)
"It's just a matter of time" __ TG Sheppard __ 'Somewhere Down The Line'
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OK, the only way to fit an amphitheatre into Roger's workshop is to install a CCTV camera and broadcast to u-tube or somewhere. Then we can all watch in awe, perhaps in delayed action for those of us in upside-down-lands. Make it a subscription-only broadcast to recover the cost of setting it up.

 

How about it Roger?  :)

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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 Do you have moments like that looking back at what you've created/accomplished here or with your Avanti?

Yes, Scott I'm doing that too! As my models are taking such a long time to be ready, sometimes I don't remember how I did this or that. Like you, I'm looking at finished parts and, most of the time I like what I see, even if there are imperfections.

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OK, the only way to fit an amphitheatre into Roger's workshop is to install a CCTV camera and broadcast to u-tube or somewhere. Then we can all watch in awe, perhaps in delayed action for those of us in upside-down-lands. Make it a subscription-only broadcast to recover the cost of setting it up.

 

How about it Roger?  :)

Yes, it could be done. And to keep things interesting, only a few things could be registered or shown at a faster speed. So, when I do begin with that? The answer is easy: never! I hate when somebody is looking during a construction process, especially when the outcome is not granted.

Sorry, you will still have to look at the pictures!

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Yesterday, I was tired to clean each square from the grille (half is done), so I put the front clip in pieces to finish some drilling and tapping. The hood lip moulding was attached to the hood with contact cement; it was time to have a better solution. Drilling small holes into a well maintained piece is one thing; however, the hood is rather difficult to stabilize. Again, I used a bead of Plastilin to almost glue the hood on a large table (first picture). Anyway, the drilling is risky because the Plastilin allows some movement if pressure is applied. To minimize the risk, I decided to drill just 4 holes and not 10 like the real car. Fortunately all went well without incident.

The second picture is showing the lip moulding installed, but for what reason there are five indentations? The largest one is for the opening lever for the hood; the 4 smaller ones are to avoid interference with the grille teeth. The middle tooth on the original car is shorter than the other ones because the moulding is in two pieces. With an indentation, attaching the two halves together with a screw would have been impossible.

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Finally, the grille is finished. It took a long time to adjust all the adjacent elements; for example, the indentations in the hood lip moulding were too small and I could not close the hood. The moulding in front of the grille will need more adjustment near the hood; the gap between the hood moulding and the grille moulding has to be increased on both sides; it will stay that way for the moment.

To hide the joining gap from the moulding in front of the grille, there is an escutcheon on the rear car which is attached to the middle tooth. I added this detail which can be barely seen on the picture; however, to avoid misadjustment, I just soldered it on the moulding as mine is made in one piece.

 

The front end got new spring. For the moment, the front end is at the correct altitude; these springs may be too weak for all the elements which will come; maybe I will have to choose a slightly larger diameter, like 1.2 mm instead of 1 mm.

 

Technically, the front end is finished. Some minor elements must be done like the hood ornament and the " C O N T I N E N T A L" letters for the hood. Those details will be done later and, due to their dimensions, will require all my skills!

Now, it's time to go to the rear bumper.

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Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Sorry, you will still have to look at the pictures!

 

*grins*

 

Don't apologize, Roger ... we love pictures!

 

Tho, that would be cool to watch from a distance.  lol

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)
"Happiness ain't never how you think it should be so" __ Duncan Sheik __ 'She Runs Away'
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The rear bumper is continued with more logical parts: the upper bumper ends. OK, on the real cars, these parts were pressed together with the upper bar and somewhere welded together. As I cannot do the same, I'm processing the same way as I did for the front bumper, each end is made with two halves silver soldered together.

On the picture, you can see on the left the LH bumper end which is assembled, then the piece on which the parts are hammered and, on the right, the other bumper end, not yet assembled. You will notice on one of the parts a bracket: this is the attachment for the exhaust outlet. Due to the shape of the bumper ends, it was impractical to install the bracket later; therefore I decided to solder it before both halves are together. This is tricky because, if I'm using too much solder, the threaded holes may be plugged.

The first bumper end went well in this respect, the second one too as it was soldered after I did the picture.

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The upper rear bumper bar is more or less ready. Looking at the first picture, I have the impression that the radius between the LH bumper end and center bar is larger than on the right side. I have to check. I still have to enlarge the apertures for the exhaust outlets at the bumper ends;

Even if that upper bar is similar to the front one, it’s different. Slimmer and the way to get it were somewhat different; I used a thinner material, 0.5 mm instead of 0.8 mm. I did also a mistake with the bumper ends: the inner “leg” was cut too short. What was at first a liability was at the end an asset: it was easier to attach the bumper ends to the center bar. As the joint was rather precise, I hope that no pores will appear during polishing. Silver solder is fine, but when too much material is used to make a radius, pores may appear.

 

One may wonder why I began with the upper bar for the front and rear bumper. The reason is easy: the body is a great help to align the parts; doing the lower bars first would be more difficult as the reference points are too far away.

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Thanks John! Your question is not easy to answer: some smaller parts will be easy, like lower mouldings, some will be not, like the letters "Continental" but I cannot skip them. Even if I did the windshield wipers for the previous models, it's always an adventure to replicate such delicate parts.

Usually smaller parts are less problematic regarding the shape as they aret adapted to the available space or configuration. However, that does not means that progresses will be quicker!

One element which will be hard to solve: electric windows/vent windows. I will have to search for adequate electric motors; not a big deal for the door windows as the Toronado has electric windows but I still don't have the answer how to motorize the vent windows.

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Roger, 

 

The car is coming along beautifully.  Again, if you did not know that it is 1:12, you would swear that you are looking at a real car.  this is due to the detail in each of your pieces.

To see the parts with the "look" of the real thing is just astounding.  

 

Again, do you have factory drawings on the car to reference to?  If not, did you draw up the renderings for the car?  If so, that is as much talent as any one has seen since the cars produced by Gerald Wingrove.  You, Roger, are in rarefied air.  I can count on one hand the master modelers that I have seen and experienced  in the last 20 or so years.  Simply amazing. 

 

Randy

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Yes Randy, I have some factory drawings, they were of a great help. Thanks to Barry Wolk; he provided the copies. However, those 70 or 80 drawings which are mostly cross sections from specific elements, are not sufficient to create a model more or less accurately. I'm fortunate to have access to 4 Mark II at about 12 miles from home; I'm going there each time something is unclear or to take pictures and dimensions; I was there yesteray. I have 35 pages of sketches/dimensions!

 

It’s not the first (and last) time that I have the impression that the next part will be easy to do. That was my thinking when I began the lower bar for the rear bumper. First, to avoid ungainly pits, I expected to do the part on the picture’s left in one piece. I soon realized that I could not; another scrap part…As a consequence, each (LH & RH) lower bumper bar will be done with 4 distinct parts. Then, I had (and still have) difficulties to translate what I see in pictures and drawings into a lower bumper end because nothing is straight. I began with the outer “cheek”, but it’s not a great help. When I’m faced with such difficulties, I’m always happy to find something else to do! Hopefully, the RH bumper end will be done after this week-end. Stay tuned.

 

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Finally, I saw some light and, step by step, things went better and better. Even dimensions are in line with what I measured on the real car. Now, when I’m looking at that assembly, I’m wondering why I had difficulties, it seems so easy!

The lower bar is now assembled with screws to the upper one, as well as the exhaust outlet. Still missing at that RH side of the bumper is the bracket to attach the bumper to the frame. This is the reason why the bumper is not aligned with the body on the pictures.

Hopefully, the LH will be easier!

 

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