Fadt

Could you ask the people with the full size car to send you a video of the part you need info on. Just a thought.

I hope you are staying safe in these funny times.

The carriage was always known as the saddle when I was an apprentice.

Thanks. Did the same sort of thing with mine but had a lot more spokes to deal with and sometimes got it wrong and had to do it again. Second wheel was much easier

I am interested in how you worked out the 'offset' for the first spoke. This is how you indexed the rim to the hub and which hole you used to set the sequence for the rest of the spokes. I found it a little difficult the first time I did it. Gerry

Sorry, I meant 20 thou. Used brass wire not rod. The spokes on my full sized hot rod are 3.8 mm and they were chosen as they are thicker than normal for this kind of wheel.

Roger. 1/8th wire wheel which I made for a hot rod model. If I can do this, you should be able to do it will ease. Spokes were 12 thousands of an inch. Had to make a rotary milling table to do the rim and hub holes. Used Gerald Wingraves book as a reference and information on how to do it, but did modify his method to my way of doing things. Gerry

Roger. We just got a 54 Hydromatic Jetaway from a Olds NintyEight for a rebuild. Its only the 3rd one we have ever seen. Is there any info on them available. I seems to remember they have a Torque converter and also a fluid coupling inside the front of the transmission. Any info would be welcome Gerry

You could try placing the letters on some low tack double sided tape and then on the trunk lid first!

This stuff is brilliant. I have used it to glue windows in a model car. It stays liquid until you hit it with the UV light, so you can remove it before its cured. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-UV-Seal-Wood-Glass-Fabric-Welding-Kit-Fix-Repair/163038439545?hash=item25f5d92879:g:sBEAAOSw8~JbK1fy:rk:21:pf:0

Taking measurement to make sure its straight and true, before you paint it.

I check in most days. Think there is a lot of people like me, who do.

I did wonder how your were going to 'colour' the pipes. I did not consider using solder to turn them to a bright metal colour. Simple but effective. Well done, yet again for some logical thinking.

Almost a shame to cover up all that superb metalwork with paint. Looks incredible.

Agree to differ on the point about 1/12th and tiger strokes, but if Roger doesn't want the cleaning up, then thats good enough for me.

Roger. Just a suggestion. Using a airbrush allows you to put on much thinner coats than a normal aerosol spray. It would stop paint build up on areas where paint looses detail. I have been using them for 40 years and once you get hold of the way they work its a satisfying skill. You can do what I used to do. Get the aerosol can and spray it into the plastic cap, producing a pool of paint. Then use an eye dropper to transfer the paint to your airbrush. It tends to be quite thin so light coats are essential. I bought a nice twin cylinder compressor with a tank for around 100 Euros and its great. Airbrushes, however are a different matter... you get what you pay for, so stay away from the 50 Euro ones. Good luck with the paint job, I look forward to it. Gerry

I think you are correct, Roger.

Just used black silicon from a tube thats available from the local car parts place which is like thick glue, and YES it is easy to tear once cured. You could. of course embed something in it like fishing line, I suppose. Then again you could use an O Ring and flatted one side, but....its not a V belt is it.

Roger. I do not know if this will help. I needed a toothed belt for the blower on my 1/8th Hot Rod. I first measured the length I needed and then cast a round disk in resin that was slightly wider than the belt. When the disk was still soft I used one of the the toothed pullys I made to inbed the teeth profile in the resin. I made sure to make the recess deeper than I needed. I then turned the outside of the disk to give me the correct thickness belt. It would be easier to do a V belt as you could just use a form tool to put the V into a brass disk. Once the resin was hard I used black silicon to over fill the void. It was then a simple job to wrap a bit of thin brass strip tightly around the 'mold' and secure it. After a couple of days, to make sure the silicon had gone off, I remove the strip and a 1/8th scale formed tooth belt just peeled out. The was no flash as the brass strip was tight to the OD of the disk. I did leave a small gap where the strip met to allow excess to come out, but it was easy to trim off and position in a place on the car where the mark could not be seen (at the bottom of the crank pully). All belts have some sort of adjuster on them, and I have no doubt yours work. This does allow for some inaccuracy on length. Hope this helps. Gerry I have just found an old belt that was a failure, but the pics show the tooth form.

Too much for me, but a usual you have once again surpassed the ideal of modle making.

Must be over a year that I have checked your thread a couple of times a week and to say I'm still captivated by your work, is an understatement. Grill would be a nice next step, especially as they seem rather intricate to make. Gerry

It is a Unimat. they offered a compound slide set up to use with their motor/drive system so I got one. I also made a power drive for the table out of plastic gears and a 12V motor supplied from a hobby DC variable supply. I have 2 of the lathes and so many accessories I have lost count. They are wonderful things but my eyes are not so good now so its hard to use them. I am amazed at the detail you can produce, using a magnifying glass. I cant find a good one anywhere unless I spend a fortune. The lever sticking out is the engagement one that slides the idler gear into place to give me the drive. I also put a microswitch in line so when it got to the end of its cut it would stop. Then reverse the power supply and go back the other way. Its old style engineering that demands skill and an understanding of things to work to our advantage, Sadly a skill thats all but gone. As you can see its not been used for a while. I am thinking about a new project in 1/0 scale.

Roger Please excuse the invasion but I though you may like this. Its a rotary milling table I made to do some parts on my T. Measures 50mm across the table. If you would like me to remove this post from your thread, just ask. Gerry

Yes but not on this thread.

Sir after following this thread for a long time I decided to register and offer my admiration for your ability. It is truly astounding. I would have voted, if I had registered, as i find that just a simple response now and then can make all the difference to someone who has taken the time and trouble to record their projects. I got a long way through building an 1/8th scale T Bucket in brass, making original parts to cast from, including a Jaguar IRS; but a friends young son knocked it from the bench and wrecked it. I almost cried; spent hours just on the front spoked wheels drilling 72, 12 thou holes in the rims and hubs then spoking them with brass wire. I though I was doing a fair job until I happen on to your build. Any thing you choose to post will always have my attention. Gerry