Ronnie

Numbers are fine for sharing until a post gets deleted and the numbers change, which happens a lot. Numbers aren't needed on this forum. This forum has a better way to share posts. -Click the three dots on the right of each post. A menu will drop down. -Click "Share" in the menu -Copy the link it the box that pops up or select one of the other methods for sharing the post. -You can share the link you copy in a forum post or via email and the link will take you directly to the post.

I see in your first photo that the ring lands are deformed. Did that happen while or after the pin was pressed out? If not it might be a hint as to what is going on.

This appears to be an issue related to the browser being used. When I use the Edge browser I have the same problem and have to scroll back to the top of the page. When I use the Firefox browser and click the next page, it loads the first post at the top of the next page as it should No scrolling to the top needed when using the browser on my Samsung cellphone either.

You can find some things to look for when buying a Reatta here: Things to check when buying a Reatta Look around the ROJ website some before buying. Lots of good information about the Reatta there.

The following shows how to go to the first new post in a topic without scrolling.

I think RAP is your problem. I doubt a CPS will fix it. Check out this How-to Guide: CRT Does Not Light Up But Radio Plays

The red arrow is pointing to a photo in your signature. It's not a cover photo. To delete the signature photo do the following. -Click on your avatar to open your profile page. -Click on "Account Settings" at the top-right of that page. -Scroll down to "Signature" in the menu on the left and click that. -Then delete the photo from your signature.

It will interesting to find out what fixes it.

Odds of a intake and exhaust valve sticking at the same time are pretty slim. It sounds like it is firing out of time. Not likely the Crank Sensor would cause it to be out of time unless the metal ring on the harmonic balancer has hit the sensor. I would check the plug wires and the wires running between the ICM and coil pack carefully again. This looks bad but you can tell from looking at it how the wires should connect.

To search for a previous post or reply you made: Click on "Search" in the main menu at the top of the page. Enter text you are searching for (Search Term). Click on "Search By Author". Enter your username in the box that opens. Click on "Search Content" at the bottom of the page. This will list all your posts with the search term you entered.

When I watch the video the question that comes to mind is, "Why?".

On a cold start the ECM won't go into closed loop until coolant temperature is above ~168* no matter which O2 sensor you have. Even on a warm start I can't tell if the ECM is in closed loop without looking at the diagnostics screen. I see little to gain in performance by installing a heated O2 sensor.

Glad to hear it worked for you. The following question and answer from the Amazon website makes me wonder how much load it will put on the headlight switch. If it pulls enough current to need an aluminum box to protect the heat sink it might be too much. Question: Does the main unit easy get hot like many resistor out there? Answer: Thank you for your inquiry, it will not exist the get hot problem. The Decoder aluminum box is safety protect and heat sinking, high quality made the most advanced led decoder at all time. It is safe, easy installation and long lifetime. By Blueseatec SELLER on May 24, 2021

You've helped me a lot over the years and I appreciate it. I always like reading your posts. Just sometimes I don't fully understand them. That might be as much my fault as it is yours.

I think any are acceptable but if you want the majority of people (like me) to fully understand what you are saying you have to keep it simple and just say what you mean. I agree OTOH is in the same class as ECM or ABS, but just saying "Mode $06 test" or OTGH is a little arcane for me to understand and I won't take the time to look it up. I just ignore it thinking at some point down the road I'll stumble across the meaning. I'm betting a lot of other people do the same. I try to make acronyms and abbreviations as simple to understand on my website as I can. I have a list of them on ROJ. If you see any of the ones that are frequently used in a post on my forum, like ECM for example, you will see them underlined in light green. If you hover your mouse over them for a second you will see a box pop up containing a short description of the acronym. I added OTOH to that list today. I don't know if anyone uses that feature on the ROJ forum or not but it is there. I thought it might help people new to the forum who may not be up to speed on the acronyms and abbreviations we often use.

I guess I flunked the test. If someone made a post here in a foreign language, I wouldn't feel ignorant just because I wouldn't waste my time using Google to translate it into English. I think the same applies to the test.

Sorry about my last post, DS_Porter 89 is right. I misunderstood the question about the pin. I thought it was about a pin in the shock absorber since you were wanting to leave yours off and I'm not familiar with the shock..

To be honest I don't know. Never had any experience with that.

No problem. '88 models didn't even have one.

On older cars with weaker ignition systems, spark plug wires were the number one cause of stumbling under load at low RPMS.

I agree with Padgett. Probably not a transmission problem.

If the fluid smells burnt I would. If not I wouldn't. Sometimes changing the fluid will make it worse. I would try the Transtune first and see if it helps.

Door panel instructions are on my website. Reatta Owners Journal