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nmhenry

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  1. Thinking about retrofitting a heated O2 sensor onto my 88 Reatta. I have seen kits online to do it. Right now on hot start it is taking the oxygen sensor a minute or two to reach operating temp and I would like it to do so sooner. What are the pros and cons?
  2. On a whim I went out and warm started it and it ran rough again. Unplugged the brand new mass air flow sensor and it smoothed right out. It was a cheap sensor. I guess I will bite the bullet and buy a quality one now. Any suggestions on brand?
  3. Well i smoked the engine. No evidence of vacuum leaks. I replaced the old Delco coils and still have the same hot start issue. I guess a new ICM is next since it was a JY unti and I don't know exactly what the condition is. Could a knock sensor cause this? OPA3 stays pretty consistent between 150-300 and no ESC retard. Seems I read somewhere that the knock sensor has a resistor in it that drops ECM voltage to around 5 volts?
  4. I was just thinking I needed a smoke generator. I might just have to build one.
  5. I have changed the intake gasket, throttle body mounting gaskets, EGR gaskets and valve, IAC and o-ring, built a new vacuum tree and made a gasket for it, changed every rubber vacuum line I could find, tested all the vacuum circuits with a hand held vacuum pump and they hold vacuum, changed the PCV grommets and valve, and sprayed more cans of carb cleaner around everywhere to attempt to find vacuum leaks. Maybe there is something I missed but I don't think so.
  6. Would there be any negative effects of running with the regulator disconnected?
  7. New injectors seemed to have helped some but the problem persists. I have unplugged the fuel pressure regulator and plugged the vacuum port and it seems to idle better hot. I tapped on it after I shut the engine down and the pressure actually increased according to my gauge. It did drop tp 20 psi in about 30 minutes but it did prime and start right up. I am wondering if the decrease in pressure is allowing the fuel to boil in the line or in the rail and is basically vapor locking the system until enough cool fuel flows to cool everything down? Seems unlikely though.
  8. Our Buick dealer won't touch anything over ten years old.
  9. That is what the site said. I figured for $10 more per set I couldn't go wrong. Hopefully this fixes the problem. I have literally changed everything else.
  10. I'm going with CS performance upgrade injectors. https://www.cspinjectors.com/shop-all/upgrade-fuel-injectors/upgrade-fuel-injector-for-280150901/
  11. nmhenry

    Confused

    I just read the post that I think you are referring to. I find that as we become more proficient in our profession we tend to think and talk to others as if they were on the same level as we are and forget that most others do not have our knowledge. I have been doing heavy duty truck parts for 30 years now with some light duty interspersed in there. I find that often I have to dumb down for lack of a better term, the way I refer to various parts, etc. when talking to people. Same thing here. Imagine a scientist trying to explain nuclear physics to you using terms he understands. He and his peers know what he is saying but he might as well be talking in Martian to the likes of you and me. We just have to be patient like you have been with me helping me with my problem on my daughter's car.
  12. Well, Through the process of elimination I have eliminated the ignition, engine management, and exhaust systems as the cause of my issue. I have also eliminated vacuum leaks as my issue. The car now holds 17-18 inches of vacuum. I am now concentrating on fuel system. I had previously replaced fuel filter and have replaced the pump and sock. I now have a set of injectors and fuel pressure regulator ordered. Wish me luck.
  13. I know it is not ignition issue. I have already tested that and even installed a Delco unit. I am leaning towards fuel now. I have changed fuel pump and filter and now I have a set of injectors ordered and a new regulator.
  14. I have installed the Delco system on this car.
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