minor4326

On my 20k-mile car I noticed a huge gap at the front of the driver's door/ window chrome strip, at the vertical (45°) seal of the front 'vent' window. The gap is 3/8“ wide ! The passenger side is tight up against the window vertical seal. The driver side rubber strip is pushed-in and prevents water from intruding, but not far enough, clearly. Both sides / end pieces are firmly in place and neither show any signs of previous movement or of being in a different location. Can someone suggest how the miss-fitted side got displaced, yet be so firmly in place. Has anyone ever experienced this, and how do I remedy the situation and reduce the gap to zero? I'd appreciate any/all help.

US Auto Supply of Sterling Heights, MI has two cars with 3800 supercharged engines. A 2004 Park Ave Ultra and a 1998 Rivera. I thought I'd let the community know.

What year? Convert or coupe?

Might try a steal cover with open slats to let heat out.

All I know is there is precious little room anywhere near the radio module. None behind it and little anywhere else.

As the OP my problem is getting the bulbs out, not finding new ones

The bulb(s) will push in, maybe too much. I think I'll try a hair dryer and a thin rubber 'mat' used to open jars to get some grip. Thanks for the responses.

Can someone give me a couple tips to remove the bulbs. The 2057s are particularly difficult to remove. The instructions and charts were incredibly helpful.

While my 1991 is awaiting better weather I thought I'd look into possibly installing LED bulbs in the rear light bar. I've damaged two bulbs beyond repair trying to get them out. I tried pushing down and twisting, but in the cold weather that didn't work. Can someone please tell me the best/easiest method to remove the bulbs. As an aside I'm not familiar with what lights up, when, at night since I don't follow the car. I discovered that some or perhaps all of the bulbs have two filaments. That suggests to me they are all used to signify braking as well as light up at night when not braking. Is that correct?

@Barney Eaton - I don't know that you overlooked anything from what you see in the SM. I'm not sure SM 1991 8A-30 is a complete schematic of the Pass-Key Decoder Module (PKDM). I've got a schematic of the 1993 Allante PKDM (SM 1993 8A-133) that shows a totally different layout and I'm not sure why. The Allante uses a 50hz square wave signal that is only generated when everything in the PassKey system is acceptable. This signal turns-on the fuel injectors. So I'm not sure if the Reatta uses such a system. Seems like all GM would use a similar system, but who knows?? EDIT: The PKDM on the Allante has A3, A7 and A9; Reatta schematic shows only A7. I think the Reatta PKDM is incomplete.

You're right. I can't believe I overlooked or disregarded the title. Thanks.

Seems a lot of money for 97k miles. What year and body and colors?

These bulbs can be purchased so they can be inserted either way and still work. Have to read and ask.

Some pull-out hard. I'd try to rock them sideways back and forth.

All T5 and T10 bulbs are replaceable.