Larry Schramm

Usually simpler and cheaper to fix it back to original. Plus you get the value of driving the car/vehicle as it was new. Also usually easier to fix if it is original and you need to get a particular part.

I would chuck the cheap meter. You always want to know what the correct voltage is, even on low voltage systems. I have had meters that went AWOL and they promptly went into the trash.

Why does your meter not have a decimal point? I might question what the numbers mean. It should have a decimal point to be able to tell you what the numbers mean in a voltage. Without the decimal point, the 626 could mean 6.26 volts or .626 volts. Same goes for the 001 number. Setting the meter on the 20 only means that if you connect the meter to a voltage over 20 volts you will either blow a fuse of toast the meter. Just my experience using a DVOM.

The pump you show is an air ride air pump for the rear shocks. You can just unplug it to get it to stop running, but the rear of the car may sag some especially if you put some back seat riders and also stuff in the trunk. If it runs with the car just sitting there, first look at the car from the side. If it is of equal height front to back, then it is a faulty level control module that connects I remember from the car body to the rear axle. If my memory is correct, it is a square black box about 6"x 6" and about 1.5" thick with a lever attached to the side. That could be bad. Also, if the pump is running listen for a damaged/broken air line to the air shocks or a bad shock with a leak. System is fairly simple, but you just need to take some time to diagnose the system.

I would agree on putting a double master cylinder, but the rest of the work IMO is really unnecessary. If all of the brake and suspension components are repaired/ refurbished to original factory standards, the car will run and stop fine. I am confident is saying this because I had a '63 Skylark and never had any issues with braking except on ice. 🙂

I would take the alternator off the car and take it to a repair shop and have them check it for either 6 or 12 volt output. It is possible that someone had it changed over to 6 volts. Just a way to confirm what the output of the alternator is.

From my experience, if a radiator is questionable, just re-core it. Bite the bullet now as a re-core will be cheaper today than in the future. Especially if you plan on driving the vehicle. If you are going to drive it minimally and let it mostly sit, put a radiator in it that looks good and does not leak. IMO and experience.

Was it for customers, or employee families? Sounds more like recognition for families that have worked for Buick for multiple generations.

Maybe this will save your neck.

Do you know the story of this picture? I would imagine it is interesting.

I would run a separate wire from the battery negative terminal back to the fuel tank sending wire. That would be a good ground. Anything else is suspect. If the gauge still shows full, then take that wire and touch it to the back of the gauge where the tank unit wire is attached. If the gauge still shows full, then a bad gauge.

How did you test the grounds? If you did just an ohm check for continuity, you may show a ground, but not a good ground. The best way to check a ground for ability to handle current is to connect one side of a headlight bulb to the ground at the tail light connector and the other side directly to the battery. The headlight should shine bright. If not, you have the possibility of only two or three strands of a multi-strand wire connected and the rest of the strands broken and not making contact. An additional test while having the headlight connected is to connect the negative wire of a volt meter to the negative battery cable. Then with the positive lead see what the voltage is on both sides of the headlight bulb. On the positive side of headlight, there should be battery voltage ( 6 or 12 volts depending on vehicle). On the ground side you should have maybe .1 or .2 Volts. If you have much more than that you have a bad ground circuit.

Take the wire from the fuel sending gauge that goes to the sending unit and ground it at the fuel tank. If the gauge still reads full you probably have an open wire between the fuel tank sending unit and the gauge in the dash. If you still have the gauge going to full, go to the gauge and ground the wire at the gauge that goes to the fuel tank sending unit. It should go to empty. If it goes to empty, fix the open wire/connection between the gauge and the fuel sending unit. If it still goes to full, you have a bad gauge with an open inside of the gauge.

Drill kit seller. https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=986732&cat=41942

I would call them. The might know the supplier or a supplier that can make you new decals. Y'a never know.

I did not see the pot of gold in Ireland either.

I had the same problem with on of the shackel bolts on one of my cars. I took a grade 8 bolt that had enough threads to match the ones that broke off. 1. Cut off the new bolt to match the length of the old/other side bolt. 2. Milled out the old bolt remains on the shackel with the space on the sides of the U 3. Fitted the new bolt in the milled out groove 4. Welded the new bolt to the old U, both the inside and outside of the U 5. Just make sure that you do not put the bolt in the center of the U. The inside of the bolt needs to match the flat inside. 6. Grind/finish the welding to match.

If you live in SE Michigan, I have an antique weaver tire machine. I would help you change your tire.

It looks like you found the answer.

Contact Ron Hausman. He is the Kissel go to guy. He is on this forum. https://forums.aaca.org/profile/101322-ron-hausmann/

The set up looks similar to the old Schwinn bike coaster brake system.

Translation: used in any car?

Looking at the wood rails that the engine is on, could it have come out of a car that had a wood frame, or was it used as a powerplant for something like a saw mill? What vehicles had a wood frame?

Picture looks like it was taken at the Henry Ford Museum/ Greenfield village.

Agree with Ft Wayne Clutch. They have done some work for me which was good.