Larry Schramm

Lamar, Been a while since I scrolled through your pictures, but the "barn" looks great. You do great work in tying everything together.

Interesting how it grows to collect rain water and funnel it back to the fungus root/tree area to keep growing.

Thanks for the information. Car has now been sold.

I had one of those in college.

My first impression is that it is a storage box for a sewing machine.

If the OEM transmission cooler is located in the radiator tank, how is it optimum to have a cooler transmission? The OEM's designed the vehicle transmission to be able to take 200degF. Should not be a problem. Now if the transmission temp is running in the 250degF, might be a problem.

Talk to John, He owns the place. Good guy. Note, they have been in business since the mid 1920's and they have done a lot of one and two cylinder engines.

For the engine work, I would recommend Hart's machine shop in Cecil, Ohio. They have done a number of engines for me. They can do it all including babbiting bearings, etc...

The thing you will use most often is a ball point pen to pay for stuff you'll "need".

Bob, You might go to an axle repair shop and see what they have. A modern "C" clip axle retainer might work as it is retained by the groove in the gear. Look here for examples and maybe one that will fit. https://www.google.com/search?q=axle+retainer+c+clip&client=opera&hs=2rJ&sxsrf=AJOqlzXcQl6AX2QT8bBH19W0ngg7QXOnrg%3A1678842835737&ei=0xsRZIHDLNquqtsPr-KU8Aw&ved=0ahUKEwjB-O324Nz9AhVal2oFHS8xBc4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=axle+retainer+c+clip&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIICCEQFhAeEB0yCgghEBYQHhAPEB0yCAghEBYQHhAdMggIIRAWEB4QHToECAAQRzoFCAAQgAQ6CAgAEBYQHhAPOgYIABAWEB5KBAhBGABQ1glY-CpghzNoAHACeACAAcEBiAHtCpIBBDAuMTGYAQCgAQHIAQjAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

If it were mine, I would keep it simple. I would use the original crankshaft, remove the three of the four main bearing caps that are not original and replace them with the original caps. Get the crankshaft cleaned up and have the bearings rebabbited. Dig out the original oil pump and install it as original. There is no reason to try to re-engineer these engines. They went hundreds of thousands of miles on the original design worry free. If you go back to all original and you need a part, it is easier to find an original than try to find a part for a franken-car with what ever the dimensions. Just my opinion and what I practice. The one thing that I do change on my vehicles that is not original is to install aluminum pistons instead of the original cast iron pistons. Less reciprocating mass which should have less stress and wear on the bearings.

Everyone, I will be at Chickasha this week and let's plan on getting together on Friday at 12:00 noon Oklahoma time at the spaces that Steve Hammatt has had for years. I do not think he will be attending this year again. If there is someone in his old space, let's plan on meeting between the two buildings under the breezeway. Be there and be square for the annual picture Friday at 12:00 noon Oklahoma time. See everyone. Larry

From my what I would consider extensive knowledge of Buick Trucks, these never were never "factory" built trucks for around the factory in that era to the best of my knowledge. They were probably cut down after their value as a car had diminished long after they were sold as cars. During the depression and before many larger cars including 6 cylinder Buicks, Packards, Cadillacs were cut down and used as trucks and tow trucks because of their heavy suspensions and larger engines. Buick never built any six cylinder trucks in the brass & nickel era. All Buick trucks built in that era were 4 cylinder trucks except the 1910 Model 2A and the 1908 "Delivery Car" which both of those vehicles were built on the 2 cylinder chassis, similar to the Models F&G in that time frame. The only Buick built trucks that were built, but not sold were the 1940 Buick Engineering rework of a 1940 car. There were five of these vehicles made and used by Buick Engineering in Flint. Only one survives and it is well documented. I have three documented Buick trucks that were sold originally as a truck to the public including a 1908 Buick Delivery Car body. If you need any other information, please ask. Look at this thread for some examples.

What a stash of parts. Lots of sort time in the future. I would put the original crank in the car.

Thanks

It almost looks like a picnic basket.

I used to work in that building on the third floor, a couple of times during my career at Buick.

Stud remover.

Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner.

Nope, not a good guess.

Here is a new item that I have not seen before on this tool challenge.

I had a similar problem to a car that I purchased. The fuel line went up and down from the bottom of the tank to the carb. I took everything that was on the car out and pitched it. I eliminated all of the rubber line, sediment bowl and all of the up & down bends in the fuel path. I then put a steel line with fiberglass fuel line insulation over the line. The line needs to be as straight as a ruler from the fuel tank to the carb. The fuel line from the tank must run in a STRAIGHT LINE from the tank to the carb, all down hill. I have never had a problem since.

Raised white letters on black walls.

Go to anywhere that makes hydraulic hoses for construction equipment. They can make the hoses for you. Should be simple, easy-peasy.