Larry Schramm

Fabulous car. I also like the snow machine in the corner of the parking lot.

The only time that I can remember seeing that is when the spark plug was full of dirt/grease and the spark plug wires were bad and the spark path was from the spark plug wire to the grease/ dirt to the engine block. Should never see from a clean/ good sparkplug to the block.

Might be for a car or truck, but I would be more inclined to a motorcycle. Just my opinion.

On everything that I have that has an odometer, I have a book that I record every tank of gas, every repair, etc. so I can make use of lifetime warranties, etc.

Neat picture

Great looking car and a memorable car.

What has been seen can not be un seen.

My guess is that it is a 1910 Buick model 17 chassis that probably was bodied as a McLaughlin.

In my opinion, the only thing that the non foul spark plug adapters do is increase the heat range of the spark plug by moving it away from the head which is the heat sink to lower the temp of the spark plug and keep it from pre ignition and burning off the tip of the sparkplug. You see this when the correct spark plug for the vehicle is used, but it is not properly torqued into the hole and is on the loose side. You can also get the proverbial melted hole in the piston from spark knock. The easier way to help this with a more accurate result would be to move up one heat range from the correct spark plug and see how it runs. The moving up a heat range is an old temporary fix that has been around forever. Just my opinion and experience.

Is that a Buick hub cap/ wheel?

Nice looking ride

If it is a driving mosquito fogger as you describe, I would be looking at the rings. Did you say what the compression is on the compression test? This would help.

This is a great thread. Very much appreciated.

Does it smoke on start up or just all of the time when driving? If it smokes on start up I would look at a head problem. All of the time then rings/pistons. You did not say what the compression values were but even though they might be the same if they are low then rings. Regarding the tire pressure, look on the side of the tires and the closer you are to the max tire pressure you are, the IMO the better you are for both handling, tire wear and fuel economy.

Neat video

Got the 15 Truck running and drove it around the neighborhood today. A little bit chilly at 49 deg F, but it was great!! :cool:

I believe that those cars had the copper cooled engines replaced with regular engines. There is one of the engines at The GM Heritage Center in Detroit and I have heard that there might be one or two that have survived but not sure. Here is a link to the Copper Cooled history. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Series_M_Copper-Cooled

I am planning on going to the Red Barn Spectacular in August with the truck. Here is a link to the show. http://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/events.php?s=red-barns-spectacular-car-show-swap-meet

Here is a good place to start. Buick the Complete History. Has numbers in the back of the book. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=buick%20the%20complete%20history

Robert, Have not heard from you. Hope you are settling in. PM me your phone and we will try to stop by tomorrow. Larry

I just scrapped a couple of Corvair station wagons because I could not even get the scrap price for them. Only wanted to pay maybe $200.00 each. Away they went parts & all for $300.00 each.

Look at the first link. You put the paperclip between A & B as shown in the picture towards the bottom of the page. Remember, there are "code readers" which will just tell you the code and then there are "scan tools" which will tell you dynamic information as the car is running. With a scan tool, you would be able to see that the coolant sensor in the previous post would be reading cold and you would know to fix that. Here is the scanner that you need to check out your car as long as it has the cartridge. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-TECH-1-SCAN-TOOL-W-ACCES-MASS-STORAGE-OBDII-INTERFACE-AP802-/400654801786?hash=item5d48e31b7a&item=400654801786&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr It is the GM Tech 1 that is good for GM vehicles from about 1979 1/2 and about 1995 +-. Then the next tool is a Tech II. There are some after market tools that will work, but these are designed for GM vehicles.

Neat video & car

Here is a way to read the codes for the engine. http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php There is then a link on what the codes are. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/gm-2-digit-codes.php You need to use a paperclip or similar item to jumper the two terminals. The challenge of just reading the codes like this is that some items will not let you know that there is a problem as they will be in range, but not reading correctly. An example is coolant temp sensor. It operates between -40 degrees to I think 256 degrees F. If the computer sees a value between these values, it will not see a problem. Example, it can be 100 degress outside, engine temp is 200 degrees and the sensor reads -20 degrees no problem is seen as it is in the normal operating range but the car will be running really rich. If you really get stuck, the dealer in Bradenton is a friend of mine.

I also agree on master cylinder. Nice looking ride though.