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vintagerodshop

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About vintagerodshop

  • Birthday 11/20/1977

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  1. The drivability of a T vs a Model S is vastly different. The T has a robustness of construction that the S just doesn not have. we have a customer that extensively drives his early cars. I have found the gearing on the S is better than the T for town driving. The T is better on rough roads and steep hills. The reliability of the T and how it is constructed is better than the S on a daily driving basis. you also can't deny the parts availability for the T is much easier for general repairs.
  2. Thank you Jason. It was in the rear trunk. Probably from being removed and replaced at the last auction.
  3. I would agree to this. In my geographic area. Full classic owners who are prepared to embark on the financial journey of a full restoration are few and far between. We have always offered full mechanical services on vintage cars. It probably makes up half of our currant business. Finding qualified staff who can problem solve and effect a presentable repair are difficult to find. Finding a tech who can do those things and have a fine attention to detail to pursue the last 5 percent to make it perfect is even harder. As a shop I have gotten the reputation of being able to be versatile and think outside the box. We often have other shop bring us repairs that they have are not prepared to attempt of have attempted and it has gone poorly. While there seems to be no shortage of mustangs you will see a 1924 detroit, Sears model J, or Leon Bollee parked in the bay over.
  4. Ed is just trying to stay relevant. All that hype after buying the crusty White. He is feeling neglected.
  5. Could anyone tell me what a factory tool kit for a 1929 Series M would look like? Pictures of the tool kit I have and car for reference. Thank everyone for the time to look.
  6. Unless you have the ability to fabricate and install a modern 3 point belt with shoulder strap I would agree with Alsancle. A lap belt is more dangerous than no belt. If I am in a crash with a lap belt in a prewar car the belt will only create a hinge point at my waist ensuring that in the crash my chest is going to squarely impact the non collapsible steering column resulting in a larger injury to my person. Very rarely have I seen belts added to a vintage car that could actually be effective. The mount point of the anchor of the belt needs to be in a correct line from the wearer's hip / waist and dirctly back to the frame reinforced mount. Often times the line has to snake through seat base and back resulting in the direction of pull or force being across the lower legs or the stomach.
  7. You will have a difficult time trying to pull fuel through the lines by only relying on just the mechanical fuel pump. I would estimate that the engine cranking speed is only maybe 200 rpm if the starter in in good shape and you have a healthy battery with good battery connections and large gauge battery cables. Some guys will splash some fuel doun the carb in a attempt to get the engine to fire and get the fuel pump moving faster. It is also likely that the pump will just cavitate and just pump air back and forth with out pulling fuel. I would recomend that you do one of two things. 1. Use a vacumn pump and disconnect he fuel line at the carb. connect the vacumn pump and use it to pull fuel through until you see fuel at the carb. then reconnect fuel line and attempt to start. 2. if the car sits a lot between drives then maybe think about adding a flow through electric pump at the tank along the frame rail. wire the pump to a switch under dash. you can then use the pump to "prime" the system on start up. this is handy when the car sits for a long period of time like over winter. Please be aware. a fuel pump will typically provide a fuel preasure that is to large for the carb float needle and seat to handle resulting in pushing to much fuel into the engine. Often it will be between 6 to 10 psi. To manage this we always also install a inline adjustable preasure regulator at the pump along with a fuel preasure gauge to help identify running fuel preasure. You will want about 3 to 4 psi adjusted. The preasure regulators while they have a preasure gradiant marked on the regulators are notoriously inacurate. This is why the guage is needed. Once the car is started you can switch the electric fuel pump off and run on the mechanical pump. Also be sure that the pump selected is a flow through or pull through which allows for the use of the factory pump while regular driving. Modern fuels with the increased levels of ethanal are complete garbage for vintage cars. Often times on hot days drivers will experience a "hot soak" condition where the fuel in the fuel lines will vaporize or "boil" where the lines run to close to the engine. While driving in heavy stop and go traffic at slow speeds I have experienced the need to engauge the electric fuel pump to preasurise the lines thus correcting the vaporizing in the lines. Modern cars with fuel injection use a fuel return line that helps to cycle the fuel back to the tank and keep flow moving which helps to cool the fuel. Vintage cars in a original configiration are not set up this way. A lot of guys will tell you that if you have your car restored and set up properly that this should never happen. They are not entirely correct or incorrect. Every car will have its own inherent design flaws that if you are wanting a modern trouble free driving expereince you have to be a problem solver for your particular situation.
  8. I own a 1930 L29 Cabriolet, the red Boat tail l29 Speedster that AJ posted, a 1932 Auburn boatail Speedster, a 1931 Auburn Coupe, a 1932 Auburn Cabriolet, and a 1935 Model J. My perspective of the L29 is that is is the worst car in the list to drive. The driver position, the floor hung pedals, and the extremely heavy front end make it a chore. Gear ratio also keeps your pm higher than you would like. It is very common for L29's to have overheating issues.that being said the styling of can not be beat. I, in a past life used to also own a Ruxton sedan. The Ruxton was a much nicer driving car. For some reason though I am completely smitten with the L 29. The concept of driving a car that all the local perceived car guys know nothing about is quite enjoyable. However my 32 Auburn Speedster is a total joy to drive. Light, responsive, brakes well, steers nicely. I would recomwnd a 8 cylinder Auburn every day. If you are looking to buy a L29 please find a car you can borrow for a few days first. My Speedster body was built In Canada about the end of the
  9. Pair of Ryan Light headlights for sale. in very good condition. nice lenses and reflectors chrome good. $750.00 usd plus shipping. more pictures availible.
  10. For sale, Duesenberg Exhaust manifold and down pipe. Manifold has nice porcelain. No visible cracks in cast iron and flanges. 1800.00 USD plus Shipping. located in Surrey British Columbia Canada
  11. From Vancouver BC to London England. I purchased a 1934 Mercedes 290, a 1931 Mercedes 370K and a 1886 Benz Patent Motorwagon.
  12. I have had many prewar large cars and have tried a variety of battery options. Unfortunately no perfect solution exists and the optima of today are not nearly the quality they were ten years ago. Two Optima batteries in parallel is not your best option. As you said you have one weaker and one better. The weaker one will pull the other one down and will mask the condition until you have a no start situation. @edinmass suggestion if you can fit two a good optima will be more than enough. The second battery if you occasionally maintain or swap to a primary battery will always be there to support you in your time of need.
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