gossp

I just drove past, from the toll road it looked slightly more occupied than that… slightly. They were open for business and vending though!

Drinking a really bad soda, would be more fun sitting on a horse with a steering wheel.

I took note of that as well, if you see an early Dodge in the parking lot, it’s me.

Yep, HPOF.

This announcement came through the Maxwell email list today. The annual gathering of Maxwell people will be Wednesday of Hershey at 1:00 pm, C2E 39-42. I suppose I will be there since it’s my fathers spaces, right next to my spaces, and I have a Maxwell.

I and my ‘15 will be cruising around at Hershey.

It’s row C2E and C2F. Not nearly as many of them as their used to be.

I don’t think it has been offered, as I get hit up for ice very often when I drive off site.

For the record, there is nothing about recovery equipment that makes it refrigerant specific other than perhaps marketing for its original application or a sticker. Recovery machines set up for auto shops often specify a refrigerant but that was just to get shops to buy a dedicated machine. Right before 134 came around recovery machines started getting stickers that said they were for 12… then the 134 machines came out. if wanting to keep a vehicle running the original refrigerant, which I highly recommend doing (converting has a high failure rate), source yourself a jug of r12 and when work is needed have a refrigeration or appliance repair guy help you. They will be more qualified than an auto tech. With the cost of r12, having someone that knows what they are doing run a pressure test with dry nitrogen and a decay test under vacuum will pay for itself over losing $500-1000 worth of refrigerant.

Here’s a screenshot of an ad in the HCCA classifieds. I don’t know the guy, but believe he does a bit of hauling for a friend in the same town.

You can order Moxie off of Amazon. All of the specialty soda retailers have it, they tend to include it in most samplers.

You might be well off to put the words free and Detroit in the title. Lots of guys with trailers going to be at Dearborn for the old car fest this weekend.

The best advice I can give is to bring lots of money. Also important if looking for specific things is to grab a program and track down people early. Take time to talk to guys that have stuff “like” what you need even if you can see they don’t have what you need. It’s a big event full of small communities.

I will put a stupid price tag on my car for the show. The car will be out all week (depending on weather), and it decreases pointless conversations…. Or are pointless conversations half the charm of the week?

I am bringing cigars and vintage crown because I owe you a “thanks for being a nice guy” present for talking me out of leveraging myself on an expensive acquisition a couple years ago. Other than that: sample Woodgrain dashes, some Maxwell brass, a 15 dodge to put in the show (hpof), perhaps some early dodge parts, piles of pig iron that never sells, and some supposedly very nice v8 packard stuff for a friend but I have not seen any of it yet. I am on the non rolls Royce side of rolls Royce row. C2E40-ish.

I would try driving it with the spark greatly retarded and see if it’s less hot… or just static test timing. Cars with heavy flywheels behave great with too much advance but get hot fast.

Two houses on my block in Indiana got stickers today.

Newport is only about an hour and fifteen minute drive for me (or just under two in a brass era car), with old car friendly roads the whole way, and I have been to the town many times… but never gone to the event because it’s the weekend before Hershey! I have said for decades that I am going to check out the hill climb, but I always have a truck to load with parts instead.

I am curious why someone would be after multiple bad ones.

My 1915 Dodge Brothers took me across the river to Purdue University today… more importantly, it took me to Harry’s Chocolate Shop to get the best chicken wings on earth…. I needed to get a fix one more time before the students come back and there is no way to park and an hour line to get in!

Mine is a 1915. I don’t have any documentation to support that I should have a clear lens, just word of mouth from some fairly reliable sources that the db logo lenses were not made yet when my car was.

When assembled, middle pieces will keep the stanchions aimed about right until tightened. Earlier cars had nothing else, not sure about 22/23. I am fairly sure the rivets in the headlight ring are not correct, or if ever done on a dodge they were not used for long. Do your lenses have the db logo on them? I have those on my car but understand I should have clear glass.

I like it…. But if you showed me a paint chip of that color and said that was the plan for your packard, I would cringe and suggest you sell the project before paint. Looks like that cars owner has more vision than I do.

You should be able to work the top windshield into place, as I managed to remove one without doing any noticeable damage, but it is a case of applying brute force gently. If not rusted in to place, the stanchions are held on by one nut each at the bottom. Access is easy and removal isn’t a big deal… but sometimes they don’t budge even after the nuts are pulled. I beat on the ones on my yard art car until there wasn’t enough nut left to protect the threads from further beating and decided the yard art car gets to keep half a windshield. if you are missing the windshield hinge guts (they create detent at different levels of open) to attach the frame to the stansions, myers or Romar will have them. the vacuum tanks are pretty straightforward, give it and the carb a good cleaning. Transmission (and rear end) lube is old 600w (roughly SAE 250 or ISO 1200). You can get 600 from either myers or Romar, but it is a hair cheaper from the ford suppliers. You can also get an ISO 1500 from restoration supply. Whenever buying heavy oil for antique car applications make sure it is yellow metal safe! This is the only reason I have mine shipped from antique car parts suppliers rather than running to the local tractor store… I am afraid I will accidentally buy the wrong stuff locally.

I think a bit of lurching with a cone clutch and a very low first gear is normal. I shift my 15 from first to second at the first sign of movement… less than 5 feet traveled. I would put ignition and fuel systems back to stock…. It’s hard to remotely troubleshoot a 1 of 1 custom build. I only have experience with air pressurized fuel tanks and Eisemann magnetos.