intimeold

Yes, when this thread started, some of us ; related to the poster that, he should take a look at the cam, lifters, rockers. It doesn't take very long to pull the valve covers off and check the valve action , on each cylinder. Apparently he got sidelined, and started to look in other areas. Yes, all possible noise areas too. Has he even taken a compression test? And also yes, I have put cams and lifters in Oldsmobile engines, somebody here said they never go bad. Never, is a word a technician/mechanic seldom uses. Follow simple diagnostic procedures and the fault will be found, no short-cuts. But as Bloo just posted; it sure sounds like a valve-train noise. But I am not there, and can't diagnose it over the internet. Somebody stopped running that car; because of the $$$ possible repair bill.

Quite Right!

I really appreciate the amount of work you have done. That being said, you know posting on here; some will have a negative comment. I like it

On mine, I found the calipers seized. The car sat for a few years, in a heated building; then problems when we applied the brakes; they would not release. The calipers, were indeed seized. Wheels rolled until we applied the brakes. We had pulled it forward, out of it's parking spot in the build, rolled free; until that first application of the brakes.

I agree with the above post and the flex-plate check; and also the removing of the fan belts to isolate the noise. But I also have found the Oldsmobile engine to have cam, lifter and rocker arm problems; usually form not changing oil regular. Not sure if you took the valve covers off yet; but it would be a good thing to do; especially if the car has set for a long while. I had one Olds engine that apparently hadn't see oil changes in it's running lifetime. Then the car sat for a few years; all the sludge that was just sludge when it was running regularly; but when it sat and the sludge dried out it started to flake off, in chunks. The new owner, had changed the oil and filter; but the engine had a noise , sort of what Matt Harwood is talking about. The area under the valve covers was just packed with hard sludge. If the sludge was that bad there just imagine what the engine valve train galley probably looked like and the cam area. Not to mention the oil pan. That owner had us put it back together and the car , was sent off to the auction by the owner. Hope you have better luck there. intimeold

The poster may be referring to something like this, taken from Cadillac V-8 engine history: Google Cadillac V-8 Monobloc[edit] A 322 cu in (5.28 L) "monobloc" engine was used in 1936's Series 60. It was designed to be the company's next-generation powerplant at reduced cost from the 353 and Cadillac V12. The monobloc's cylinders and crankcase were cast as a single unit,[3] and it used hydraulic valve lifters for durability. This design allowed the creation of the mid-priced Series 60 line. Bore was 3.375 in (85.7 mm) and stroke was 4.5 in (110 mm). This engine was modified with a 3.5 in (89 mm) bore for the 1936-1948 346 cu in (5.67 L) engine. This was used in the Series 60/60S/61/62/63/65/67 and 70/72/75. It was also used in tanks, e.g. M5 Stuart, in World War II. Of course I don't know the poster's intentions. As the clip states, the 346 engine was used in some tanks WWII. Whether or not they were completely interchangeable, would take more research. intimeold

And if you live near a forest, inexpensive fuel

That A/c clutch repair shouldn't be too much of a job. I did a lot of them back in the day.

Yes Grimy , the truck, just a little soft in the rear suspension. I knew I had to fix mine, and had many choices regarding, price, time installed/work, modifying whatever; and I chose something that didn't alter the normal ride height, and resonable price. You are correct, that 2" means a lot when going down the road. The last truck I had, I chose to have the rear springs built at a $$$$$, but that also added a higher ride height. They build trucks today for comfort and not really max towing. I don't want to increase the rear ride height because I load motorcycles all the time. Every inch of unloaded height adds more work when loading on a ramp.

The truck is sagging 2" at the rear; moving just the ball up won't fix that. Get your truck level then adjust the ball if needed. Start at the front and work your way back. truck - hitch - trailer - load, don't try to fix it starting in the middle intimeold

Grimy, I agree with you that the height of the ball is about 2" too low; but as I look at the pic on the level, I see the rear of the truck as being 2" too low. Same level/height observation; but a different procedure to get there. Just focus on the truck; and not any thing behind the truck's rear bumper. The truck is sagging about 2" at the rear. I had the same problem with my truck; the same truck as Victoria's. The load helper that I chose, fixed the problem; without affecting unloaded height. I will post it again here for those who did not read all the posts. I chose http://timbren.com/ Other systems are available to fix that sag. She needs something . The Tundra is plenty of truck, with 401 ft. lbs of torque, it just need a little help in the suspension for towing. I tow a little more that the load she has on with no problems. Plenty of brake too. intimeold

Victoria, as you know I have a Tundra. looking at your loaded trailer and truck, may I suggest something. Looking at your pic,You have a lot of weight of the trailer on your truck, which is good; but not excessive weight on the tongue. The truck and trailer must work together. Consider leveling your truck trailer combo. It really helps the driving experience. I added these to my Tundra, and still load the tongue, http://timbren.com/ If you do make certain they are adjusted as per the directions. You will notice the difference. There are other systems such as air overloads, but the Timbrens are priced right. Will keep your rig level. OK to PM me if you have questions intimeold

I like your idea, We just came home from a motorcycle show /flea-market, loaded trailer with used parts. Speed limit is 70 mph some places. And I do have a Tundra also; so if it safe I go the speed limit. Anyhow, tires: I replace the trailer tires about every 2 years. Not because of the wear limit; but because of the sidewalls drying out. Usually see trailer tires blow out from whatever, maybe drying out. And I cover the trailer tires when parked in the sun at home for a long time. intimeold

There seems to be a lip, at the lower/bottom edge, on your skirts. Not so on the set on the 1939 Buick. intimeold

Well, I learned: If there are no pictures; it didn't happen When you put car or parts, in the For Sale section, if you don't publish a $$$$ price; you will hear about it. intimeold

In the early to mid 1970's I worked at a new car dealership; I was just making ends meet, early on in my technician/mechanic career. So I would buy the really ragged out trade-in cars , usually the ones that had mechanical problems, or light body work. And then resell them. I passed on a 1967 Corvette 435 hp, because I didn't have the $$$. That's right it was less than 1000.00. The idiots that traded it in; didn't even live in the city, and they were traveling through; and the front wheel bearing went bad. They drove the car until the wheel fell off. The hub ground down into the axle; and thus the wheel fell off. The car was a hog pen, no other body damage; except the front fender area; but junk and soda bottles and food littered the floor. The dealer didn't give them anything for it. remember this was gas shortage times too. The dealer sold them something and the idiots went on down the road. Would love to have that car sitting here now. intimeold

Yes 1936, My Father had one a long time ago Look at the hood chrome strips, 1936 only, and yes the suicide door hinges

Yes, Mr Keiser It seems we have another fishing/phishing expedition A guy called me this weekend; on something that I do buy; but when asked, how much can I buy it for next week, after Chritsmas; his response was, He didn't know. That deal is 4 hours away; just for me to go and take a personal look at his vehicle. I would have go back home until he decided. Doesn't look like I am making that trip. I agree with you; if a seller has something to sell; he should research the market, if possible, advertise a firm price that you are comfortable with; and get out thee and advertise it, at that price. Don't waste a serious buyer's time by your inability to competitively price something.

Thank You for clearing that up.

A friend of mine's, grandfather; had bought one new in 1957. It looked exactly like this one. Black color, red interior, no skirts When the car came up for sale only about 15 years ago; they honored my request at, getting a first chance to bid on it. Yes, fair enough It had been in storage for many years; and I saw it in that storage; only as a walk -by - look. When it came to buy it; I needed a better look. Every body mount, had serious rust; the floors were perfect original, the car looked good and ran good. At the time, I thought the body ,mount rust was beyond me. And Yes, I like the look of this car, in the post intimeold

Differences: I thought this would be a good time to ask this question: Do the Avanti II's have the hog troughs rust, and related rust problems. But in asking that question, I understand the early AvantII's had more Studebaker parts that the later Avanti II'. Then on some original Studebaker Avanti's, a few had rust problems at the rear bumper brackets; same question about his. Any info would be appreciated intimeold

Yes, That bar looking tool, is a Ford Flathead V-8 engine valve spring compressor intimeold

WOW, Really Nice

auburnseeker I am coming around to your way of thinking. Between, eBay - PayPal - Shipping, I am finding that some buyer just want to take advantage of you., as a seller. The shipping is usually the part where I find the real, scammers, a buyer bids and the wins an item, the shipping is fully explained, in the listing. Whether it is a Local Pick-up or whatever shipping service. After the sale, they call and want a better deal on the shipping. I am Not Fed-Ex, UPS, USPS; call them. They want me to give a discount on the shipping. Yea! intimeold