intimeold

Your buddy Greg was spot on: About the maximum lean condition. I would add if the vehicle automobile, "Motorcycle, chainsaw, generator, etc)", is low on fuel; turn the engine off. For several reasons, possibility of pulling contaminate, from the bottom of the fuel tank; and don't run an engine in a too lean condition, may cause damage.

I saw this posted, somewhere else; and it was said to a real item. Possibly for sidewalks or in-town parking lots. On the other hand the Rolls looks to be photo shopped.

These are great road cars. Just add a few friends and get on an interstate; and let the big V-8 run.

To answer you question, "Does the USA require certified tire installers"? I don't believe yet; but something is up with the franchise shops and their lawyers. As forum poster, joe_padavano, posted on here earlier. and his adventures at Costco. Our local Ford/Subaru dealer won't plug a tire. No where - no way. I had a small nail in a new tire on a new Subaru; and they refused to touch it. Took it down the street to an independent garage; plugged it, two years ago. Wal-Mart had a special on Michelin tires. I took a Toyota Tundra in to get 4 new tires ; but wanted to "up size", 1 size. That Tundra can handle a lot more that that. They would NOT do it; it had to be the exact tire size the truck came with. I could have carried the rims in and they would mount them; but NOT install on the truck. So: The lawyers have gotten their finger in their somehow; somebody sued somebody somewhere. intimeold

Rear Axle: Hypoid. Differential housing offset to provide straight-line drive. Ratio is 2.94 with a 3.21 axle available (3.21 only on Eldorado). The 3.21 axle is standard on all air-conditioned models and the Seventy-Five models. Available (except Eldorado) is the controlled differential which directs power to the rear wheel having better traction. I just googled 1967 Cadillac technical specifications and got this. So it looks like you have 2 choices; if it is stock; probably is. Not too many 1967 Caddys were drag-racers. So do the math or take it apart and count teeth. I didn't change any wording in that spec; but that last sentence seems odd. I copied and pasted it. (Yea, I saw it on the internet) OH MY intimeold

Restorer32, You just reminded me to check my farm tractors. Some have fully enclosed air intakes, but I have one that is vented to the area under the hood, like an automobile. That one particular tractor is getting an intake modification. I'm from PA also; and have been seeing more black snakes this hot summer. intimeold

http://www.oldcarsweekly.com/collector-cars/30s-cars/car_of_the_week_1933_studebaker_president_eight Well Yes, a Bendix power brake booster was available. If all the mechanical/ hydraulic brake parts are functioning properly; I would certainly be looking at the booster, or whatever controls the booster.

454 I have had some experience with big block Chevy and Ford 429/460 engines. In non modified cars, street rods and campers. Those engines in stock form, generate tons of heat; then if they are modified, which even makes the heat problem worse. Some cases we had luck. making a heat shield; and fitting it between the starter and block. That is NO easy feat. Not much clearance there. Always use a thermostat. Something like a 160 degree. And always use a fan shroud, that actually surrounds the fan. Some people have had luck, by adding a Water Wetter. You can Google that. I did have a 1958 Chevy 348 Tri-Power, that I used something like that and it did help. I think the ignition timing has already been discussed. And check the advance too. Looking at your machine, we can rule out rust and scale in the engine, by the way a nice machine you have there. Of course make sure the radiator is designed for an engine that large. I'll go back to that fan shroud, You have to use a good one; with a good fan too. Take the starter to a starter rebuild shop; and have them check it. It could be a combination of the above suggestions. Good Luck intimeold

All great comments. When I first saw this video; I was just checking out, the vintage farm machinery. Then the car appeared; and I thought WOW, what a long hood, and the hood side doors. When I saw the front of the car and the Cadillac V, on the radiator grill, I almost had a heart attack. Then on closer inspection the added dual rear wheels. I had to google the car to see the year of it; but didn't have any idea of the body type. It didn't take very long to get replies; and Keiser31 was as usual, on his keyboard. Great Work. Thanks to all that posted. My thought was, the car at that time; was worth more as a tractor than a used V-12 Cad. Mainly because I didn't see any frame damage, as if it was in an accident. Fast forward from this video to the gas shortage years of 1973-74. Many High Performance cars were traded in on Ford Pintos and Chevy Vegas and such. I know for a fact they were. I was a young auto technician at a Ford dealership, and bought 2 trade-in Ford Boss 302 Mustangs; in the mid 1970's. The dealer didn't want to sell them because, he wouldn't give a warranty on them. Yes, both of those cars did need engine work; but still ran everyday. So maybe one can conclude, the big V-12 Cad wasn't wanted by anyone. intimeold

Lost my caption, can't enter text with the pic, for some reason. Go to 3:06, and look at the beautiful automobile. Just makes you wonder why such automobiles, "were cut up." Was it a rear end wreck Maybe just not worth any value at the time It seems to be running great, pulling the baler. Any ideas on what the car is? intimeold

Hubcaps creeping: When I first read this posting; I thought maybe you were talking about the "creeping noise", sometimes heard when going very, very slowly. Typical of the wheel flexing ever so much. This used to be a problem, on some fords, with full hubcaps; I worked at a dealership in the 70's, It would sound like a dry door hinge, creeping. We would run a full strip or two of black electrical tape, the whole way around , on the sharp teeth that hold the hub-cap on. The gripping teeth would go through the tape; and still grip the wheel. But, mysteriously, the creeping noise was gone. But after I read all the posts, it sounds like the hub-caps try to move them selves, off the wheel. Maybe the tape would help with that; But I am not authorizing this action; only as a test, under controlled conditions. Of course, we didn't have silicone, back in those days. Maybe that is the modern "fix". intimeold

Good looking Ford. Don't worry the 351 will pull that car around very nicely. So would have the 390 if it was still there. You didn't mention the type of transmission. Anyway, I would drain and refill, what ever transmission is in it. If it is an automatic, pull the pan and change the filter also. intimeold

I remember rebuilding Ford top-loader 4-speed transmissions, and GM transmissions, in the 1960's and 1970's. The counter shafts used uncaged needle bearings. the countershaft gears used usually 2 sets of them. The trick is not the grease as much as patience and taking your time. Once all the needle bearings, on each set were installed, they actually stayed in place; after the last bearing was put in. Usually that last needle had to be put in, by starting one end and then pushing it into the counter shaft. Not following me, OK, we just used the wheel bearing grease, non-fibrous, but sticky. Put a small amount in the counter shaft where the bearings go, with your finger, and start laying the needles, better if you go 1 by 1, in the counter shaft on the layer of grease. If the bearing were good and the gear was also good, there would be a snug fit for the last needle. Thus maybe starting it by sliding the last needle into the open space from the end of the needle, ( it may or should be too tight to try to push it down into the gap). The will not fall out now, if all parts are not worn out. If this last needle was not snug, then maybe you lost 1 needle, or the gear bore was worn as well as the needles. Most likely a needle was missing. Count them and check the parts book for the correct number. If they don't fit this way, and are still loose; the needles will not run true. Stop right there, something is wrong. When I say "snug", this is an acquired feel, but check the clearance with a feeler gauge, then check your manual for the spec. If the needles fall out, something is worn-out. Because then you set the counter-shaft into the transmission case, with the counter-shaft gear spacers and thrust washers. Keeping in mind on those 4-speeds the counter shaft would be inserted, after the input and mainshaft were installed in the transmission. Sounds complicated, well you just have to watch very closely, that all parts are where they belong. The grease only held the needles during assembly, until the last needle was inserted. Again, if too loose here, you better find the problem or the transmission will not last long. The input shaft also had "loose needles" between it and the mainshaft. I'm not talking about the input shaft bearing. I don't have a diagram but you can google an exploded view of the transmission parts. intimeold

WOW, what a choice. A government mandated, safety, bumper Nova; or a Pinto, (err sorry Mustang II)

If the car has made it to this point; all the bugs, if any, are already fixed. Now you have to deal with all the worn out parts; just from normal driving and age.

Yes, a great loss to his family and our hobby. I knew him for years, always a good guy to talk to. intimeold

The Front-end screams 1941 Ford to me. The back does look like the 51 Chevy, as noted earlier. But it is certainly a mix of parts for sure.

No, the 1968 had an option GT-E, that had the 427, Very Rare but, yes it was made Google 1968 Cougar with the GT-E option

Sorry, I didn't get to type anything, before I mistakenly hit the Post button. I know nothing about that car; just saw the pic. intimeold

HOW RUSTY IS TOO RUSTY? It can be summed up as: How much money do you have?

Nice bike in the background

That car was staged there. Yes, it was stored improperly somewhere; but not right there.

A few years ago; probably in the late 1970's, when I had my shop open; a customer brought a GTO in with a transmission problem. A 4-speed Muncie, that he had run with a leaking rear seal. I suppose he knew it was leaking; but didn't think about fixing it until it started really howling Well we removed it from the car and just opened it up, took side cover off, and it was burnt blue. OK, when he heard the estimate to rebuild it, all new gears, everything; we were saving the cases though, for the build dates and etc. He decided that is way too much and buys another transmission, just recently rebuilt, from wherever. He said a reputable, high performance Pontiac man. Just install it, were his orders. Oh My God, it howled almost as bad as the burnt up one; but only in the lower 3 gears. So good chance the cluster bearings were shot or worse; we didn't touch it. Then the fight started. He didn't want to pay the bill for the removal, diagnosing the problem and installing the, junk rebuilt one. We had to impound the car, but he eventually paid. Wasn't welcome back. So even though we had nothing to do with the junk rebuild, he wanted us to take the hit. You just never know. intimeold Almost as bad as finding a huge surprise, when we buy something that is represented wrongly.