CCruz

That sounds like the confirmation I got from another local source, today, after I related the above info. I will be tied up for a few days before I can get back under the car but at least now I have HOPE!! Thank you!

Hmmm. I wondered if that might be the case as it appears to be attached to that larger flywheel housing in some way. This offers more insight instead of just the obvious bolts. Thanks. Will check this out and hope for the best.

In the past, I had rocked the car to disengage the Bendix gear from the flywheel which stuck during the starting process. One shop replaced the Bendix and another replaced the worn flywheel. As initially stated, the starter gear is loose and is not engaging the flywheel. The starter sounds OK as it makes a whirling sound but I know the starter gear/Bendix is shot. My issue is getting the starter assembly off and out of the car and I cannot figure out what is holding it solidly in place after removing the bolts I have removed.

Three total. I removed a larger one to the back of the starter area but I don't think it is not related. Yes, three close inspections for overlooking bolts has been done. What I would like to see is a schematic showing the attaching bolt placement. THAT would be most helpful! However, I am reasonably sure there are no others still in place.

"Easy fix" so I have been told. Maybe so, but the dang starter unit won't budge. My 1953 Ford /Crestline/Sunliner still has a flathead V8 and 6 volt system. A few years ago, a local company replaced the starter drive in it. Well, it shot craps again and I am attempting to REMOVE the starter. I first removed the flywheel cover to check it and the drive was not engaged and is LOOSE and free. (Important point) Then I unscrewed several bolts holding the starter and the electrical. The starter is simply will not budge and acts as if it is still bolted to the frame. Many checks later, I do not see any additional bolts holding it. The only "give" is barely moving the flywheel housing. What the heck?! I will admit I have not previously removed a starter but the repair shop that previously replaced the starter drive has and even replaced the bolts with new ones. Again, the starter drive is NOT hanging up within the starter. Even if it did, the starter should "give" some. That is not the problem. I am at a loss as to what other factors are preventing me from dropping it. If you have removed such a starter, I would appreciate insight into what I might have missed.

I am not familiar with that Automotive Information Clearinghouse book. Not sure if I can find a copy but I will try. Keiser31, I am looking for data on my '53 Ford Crestline Sunliner convertible.

Some years ago I recall being able to find a list of specific production numbers for a model and a year. I also recall seeing a list of known surviving models. I can't seem to find such a list, now, on the Internet. Would appreciate any recommendations on such a source.

YOU GUYS ARE GOOD! I had used some penetrating oil on the ends and added again the next day. Then, as one recommended, I tightened just slightly and it backed out of the fuel pump with ease! Now to work on the more difficult part--the metal gas line. Will get longer tools for that adventure so I can have more control and torque. Getting there!

Correct. I want to remove the old fittings which had been adapted by adding the replacement hose. Right now I am adding penetrating oil, again, to the fittings and am hoping more will help. I like the idea of cutting off the hose and getting a socket wrench in there but IF either nut doesn't budge....I'm screwed to still start and drive. I am not as concerned with the line going into the fuel pump as I am with the other end--the gas line. I do not want to twist that one!

Some interesting solutions that I have not previously considered. Will give them a try and hope for the best outcome.

Yes, I tried penetrating oil. Both parts would not budge. Maybe more and longer. The wrenches I have are not long and I was unable to get the brass end to budge. That is why I conjectured they fused together, somehow, being two different metals that have been connected for quite a while. Will add more penetrating oil and do so for a longer time.

Here is the correct part whose diameter is smaller than the replacement hose.

Here is a photo of what was used as a replacement. One end of the cut hose line is in the fuel pump and you cannot see the other end which is connected to the metal fuel line, which is the one I fear kinking. To me, the replacement hose is too large in dia. compared to the original.

A few years ago I asked some questions here regarding my '53 Ford flathead V8 which was having a starting problem. The mechanic who had my car for nearly a month was unable to figure out the issue and thanks to some here, the problem was identified correctly as air leaking into the line. Sure enough, the gas line connection from the fuel pump was cracked. The mechanic, without having the correct connection, cut out the rubber portion and attacked a rubber replacement hose with clamps. The car starts and runs but I believe it now takes more effort. Regardless, I ordered the correct replacement line which is about six inches long and attaches with nuts on both ends. I tried to loosen the old parts and I was having no luck, fearing the two different metals somehow fused. I have been reluctant to really torque the nut because if I am unable to keep the fuel line stable, I will kink it. I cannot heat it to loosen it because it is a gas line. Other than taking it to a mechanic who may have better tools than me, what other solutions might I try before resorting to that?

Wow. Thanks, guys. Great info. Will be digging in to check. One thing for sure, I did not know there was a relay involved.