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CCruz

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  1. I am not familiar with that Automotive Information Clearinghouse book. Not sure if I can find a copy but I will try. Keiser31, I am looking for data on my '53 Ford Crestline Sunliner convertible.
  2. Some years ago I recall being able to find a list of specific production numbers for a model and a year. I also recall seeing a list of known surviving models. I can't seem to find such a list, now, on the Internet. Would appreciate any recommendations on such a source.
  3. YOU GUYS ARE GOOD! I had used some penetrating oil on the ends and added again the next day. Then, as one recommended, I tightened just slightly and it backed out of the fuel pump with ease! Now to work on the more difficult part--the metal gas line. Will get longer tools for that adventure so I can have more control and torque. Getting there!
  4. Correct. I want to remove the old fittings which had been adapted by adding the replacement hose. Right now I am adding penetrating oil, again, to the fittings and am hoping more will help. I like the idea of cutting off the hose and getting a socket wrench in there but IF either nut doesn't budge....I'm screwed to still start and drive. I am not as concerned with the line going into the fuel pump as I am with the other end--the gas line. I do not want to twist that one!
  5. Some interesting solutions that I have not previously considered. Will give them a try and hope for the best outcome.
  6. Yes, I tried penetrating oil. Both parts would not budge. Maybe more and longer. The wrenches I have are not long and I was unable to get the brass end to budge. That is why I conjectured they fused together, somehow, being two different metals that have been connected for quite a while. Will add more penetrating oil and do so for a longer time.
  7. Here is the correct part whose diameter is smaller than the replacement hose.
  8. Here is a photo of what was used as a replacement. One end of the cut hose line is in the fuel pump and you cannot see the other end which is connected to the metal fuel line, which is the one I fear kinking. To me, the replacement hose is too large in dia. compared to the original.
  9. A few years ago I asked some questions here regarding my '53 Ford flathead V8 which was having a starting problem. The mechanic who had my car for nearly a month was unable to figure out the issue and thanks to some here, the problem was identified correctly as air leaking into the line. Sure enough, the gas line connection from the fuel pump was cracked. The mechanic, without having the correct connection, cut out the rubber portion and attacked a rubber replacement hose with clamps. The car starts and runs but I believe it now takes more effort. Regardless, I ordered the correct replace
  10. Wow. Thanks, guys. Great info. Will be digging in to check. One thing for sure, I did not know there was a relay involved.
  11. The horn on my '53 Ford has not worked for some time and I am at a loss as to where to find the problem. I have removed the steering wheel and found the button but it does not make a sound when depressed. I have bypassed the steering ring to make the horn sound so I know it is not the horns themselves. Is there a fuse somewhere? What would be your recommendations to check, first?
  12. I took the car to a cruise night, last night, and had the regular hub caps on it. Another car guy came by and noticed the paint missing where the full wheel covers had been. Yes, it is very obvious the full wheel covers have removed the paint where they grab and now the contact is metal to metal. Yes, I remember those tabs on some of the wheels. None on mine. Sounds like the silicone will be the best alternative for now. We'll see what happens.
  13. This is what happens when you park too close to the new Saturn Piranha.
  14. The dog dish style caps fit a center rim area whereas the full wheel cover extends beyond that and does not attach in the same location. By the way, both wheel covers and hubcaps are original Ford era products. Not reproduction. I have noticed all of the wheel covers creep and push against the valve stems. Sometimes, after driving, I have had to secure the wheel covers, again, because they were starting to lift from the rims. Generally this is more common with the front tires. Had not thought of using silicone to aid in the tack adhesion. What I would like to a
  15. Yes, I have bias ply tires on this car. The dog dish style hub caps snap on in the center section whereas the full wheel covers grab around the outside along the valve stem areas. The creeping has pushed on all of the valve stems and sometimes I wonder if enough pressure had creeped onto the stem, that might be a possibility as to why the cap flies off. Never thought of the steel valve stems as a limiting factor.
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