carbking

Joe - you take the fun out of it! Why buy one off the shelf when you can have the enjoyment (and subsequent boasting) of making one yourself? Jon.

Shucks Ed - one wouldn't need a really good machinist, even I could make one; and I am not a machinist, just someone who has been forced to learn to use a lathe and milling machine. And Johnson will definitely never be in my list of top quality carburetors. Jon

Carbking doesn't understand the need for all the disturbed pixels I don't have a 1929 8 cylinder carb to look at, but the 1930 V-16 carb fitting is 1/2 x 20 straight thread with a gasket for sealing. A good machinist could make a new fitting in about 15 minutes. Jon.

If you are just wishing to get the engine running on the carb you have, go for it. However, if you plan to tour with the car and the Winfield, you might consider either a larger gas tank, or replicate a "moonshiners car" with the 'shine tank being an auxiliary gas tank Jon.

Necessity is the mother of invention (or so I have been told). Cell phones were not invented until after the proliferation of electronic ignition conversions! Really nice to be able to call a tow-truck! OK, less facetiously, we have had LOTS of "carburetor customers" with electronic conversions and generators, that solved their "carburetor" problem by (A) reinstalling points and condenser, or (B) upgrading to an alternator. Jon.

I have never tried to run a Winfield on a Fast Four, so no information to your exact application; however: (Opinion) up to about 1932, the three leading (quality) manufacturers of carburetors in the USA were Stromberg, Zenith, and Stewart. To your comment about the Ford T owners: there are a number of them that are quite happy using an aftermarket Stromberg. Jon.

I occasionally get a call from someone that just wants a single carburetor gasket. With no offense meant to anyone, it is just not cost-effective for us to sell a single gasket, so have been suggesting the following to those that have a computer and a scanner: Pick some gasket or something else, and using your computer software, scan the object and then print it. Is the print actual size? I use Adobe Acrobat, and get an exact size match. If you do not have software that will give the exact size, acquire it. There is lots of outdated software on Ebay cheap! Once you are positive that you can print exact size prints, clean one of the castings, and place it on your scanner, and scan it. Now, take a FLAT sheet of gasket material, place in your printer, and print the scan. You will now have a form to cut out (if you have trouble staying within the lines, find a five-year-old ). Borrow fingernail scissors from your better half (the scissors have curved tips, and are great for cutting curves). Cheap hole punches are readily available on Ebay. And no, I am not trying to put myself out of business. If you need more than just one gasket, give us a call. Jon

Thanks, I am trying to downsize. I have to slap my wrist (sometimes a couple of times) every so often when perusing ebay. In the FWIW category, in almost 50 years, we have never had a call for one of these, and only sold a couple of rebuilding kits. But the float, plugs, check valves, etc. are interchangable with the universal BB-1's. Can't really blame anyone for robbing parts from it. Jon.

If I had to guess, would guess these castings to be from a WWII Chrysler Marine military application. No, I do not want them, just posting to help. Jon.

It is possible your accelerator pump is bad. It is possible nothing is wrong with the pump. From the "troubleshooting" section of our website: Accelerator pumps Accelerator pumps Often the accelerator pump gets the blame for other problems. It is very easy to test the function of the accelerator pump. Start the engine, and warm to normal operating temperature. Shut off the engine. Remove the air cleaner. The choke butterfly should be fully open, as the engine is warm. Observe the pump jet in the carburetor, and with your hand, work the carburetor throttle to the wide-open position. You should observe a healthy squirt of fuel from the pump jet. A single barrel carburetor will normally squirt a single stream; while a two or four barrel carburetor will normally squirt 2 streams. If you see the stream(s) of fuel, the pump is working. It is important to start the engine prior to doing this test. With modern gasoline, it is quite possible the carburetor will be completely dry prior to starting. If there is no gasoline in the bowl, the pump will not work; and this would give a false result. Jon.

Also offering my inventory of Carter YF carburetor for Chevrolet as a wholesale lot. What you get: All of the cores pictured (48) At least 5 new old stock in the original Carter boxes Photocopies of Carter documentation for YF carburetors for Chevrolet Price $5000. cash no trades Shipping - YOU PICK UP (no shipping) in Eldon, Missouri (look for Jefferson City on your Missouri map) If you want singles or several, call and we can discuss pricing and shipping. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). See my ad for W-1's as well. Jon.

I love Carter W-1 carburetors! Over the years have rebuilt and sold hundreds of Carter W-1's. As I no longer rebuild, I am offering my existing inventory of Carter W-1's for Chevrolet as a wholesale lot. What you get: All of the cores in the picture (131, the parts carbs in the pictured wire basket are NOT included in the count, but are included in the lot) At least 10 Chevrolet W-1's which have been completely done, and are ready for retail sale. Several boxes of W-1's which have been started, not included in the count above. Photocopies of all Carter Chevrolet W-1 documentation Price - $18000. cash no trades. Shipping - YOU PICK UP in Eldon, Missouri (look for Jefferson City on your Missouri map). I WILL NOT SHIP THIS LOT. If you are looking for an individual or several W-1's, let me know, and we can talk about individual pricing and shipping. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Have lots of other carburetors to sell; but ALL wholesale lots will be pickup only, no shipping. What would you like to see? Jon.

One other item. One gentleman posted finding a rebuilt for 1973-1974. MAYBE it would work, I do not know, I do know that Holley lists different original carburetors AND different service carburetors for the 1973 and 1974. Personally, I would leave alone anything except the original or the original service carburetor listed in my post above. EDIT: here is the URL for OldIHC: IHC specialty website Jon.

Steve - welcome! We do not have a new Holley that fits your truck. Checking the Holley listings: R-6442-A (service carb was R-6442-1A) listed for 258 Federal applications. R-6775-A (service carb was R-6775-1A) listed for 258 California applications. I doubt that you will find either in new condition. Finding a rebuilt is as easy as using Google. (Opinion) stay away from the brand new, made somewhere, but not in the USA, replacement "carburetors???" one size fits all, works well on none! EDIT: got called to dinner before finishing. The Holley literature does not show any other carburetors fitting other than the above. Also, while this forum is a wonderful forum, with some really sharp folks, there is an I.H.C. specialty site OldIHC, where folks that specialize in I.H.C. reside. You might try there. Sorry my database is no more help. 1973 is right on the ragged edge of being too new for us. Jon.

Bill - as you have realized, the fuel is the problem (well, one of them). The other is that in 1938 very few individuals garaged their car. My daily drivers sit outside to this day. In 1938, gasoline was available; although so was ethanol. Every other generation of Americans seems to have to learn that alcohol is not a very good fuel, creating far more issues than it solves! But even if one buys fuel that is ethanol free, there are still other additives that create issues. Even without the ethanol, since the late 1960's, it has been fuel, not gasoline. Regarding your last question concerning adding something to solve the issue: to my knowledge, no one has figured out an additive that will subtract the issue. As to the odor, some folks have more sensitive noses than others; one of several reasons my daily drivers sit outside. A few years ago, there was a lot of discussion on the vapors in the garage issue from California folks. Evidently, some localities in California require hot water heaters to be placed in the garage, and many hot water heaters are either propane or natural gas. The issue was never resolved, other than switch out the gas-fired hot water heaters with electric. One term you might find interesting in researching, rather than "thinner" gas, is Reid Vapor Pressure. Finally, if my Dad were still with us, he would compliment you on your choice of car. The 1938 Buick was his all time favorite car, and he never owned one. Jon.

Bill - if you glue the top casting to the center casting, you will only change the wicking destination. The fuel will now wick up the bowl vent (a carburetor must have a bowl vent to allow inflow/outflow of the fuel), and either fall down on the throttle plates, or if the temperature is sufficiently hot it will vaporize into the air cleaner. If it drops onto the throttle plate, it will then either flow beside the throttle shaft and drip on the intake (throttle plates closed) or drip down into the intake manifold (throttle plates cracked open). In either case, the bowl will still go dry over time, with an odor in the garage until the bowl goes dry; and may be difficult to start. The castings are better on my 1979, so there is no leak at the gasket, but it does vaporize into the air cleaner, and the odor in the garage is present. I do not drive this vehicle in very cold weather, and I DO open the garage door in warm weather (to allow the fuel fumes to clear). And if I have to drive the vehicle in cold weather, I LIVE WITH IT! so yes, I have experience with (1), (2), and (3). As far as (4) is concerned, I try to go the other way, replacing efi (if I legally can) with a carburetor/carburetors. And I shutter to ever think about what government regulations might be required for (5) if I could afford to consider (5). I have been trying (6) for years, without success (there is only one of me ). Jon.

Anyone have an illustrated parts book that would show carburetor applications for: Dort 1920~1923 Gardner 1920~1923 Traffic Truck 1920~1921 Trying to document a brass bowl Carter type N-0. I know from the Carter index that these were studied for the three vehicles above; but do not have actual prints, and cannot determine if these were actually released as production, or were an engineering exercise only. Thanks. Jon.

Our late model vehicle is going to remain a "low mileage vehicle". ONE PERSON CANNOT SAFELY DRIVE THE VEHICLE BECAUSE OF THE TOUCH SCREEN. IT REQUIRES A DRIVER TO HOLD THE STEERING WHEEL, AND A NAVIGATOR TO ADJUST THE HEATING/AIR CONDITIONING/DEFROSTER CONTROLS! Even the radio controls are impossible without pulling to the side of the road! And congress help you if you accidentally touch one of the unmarked adjustment buttons on the steering wheel, when you exit the vehicle. Next time you enter the vehicle, start it, and the display is haywire; go back in the house for the laptop, Google the issue, and look for a Utube video to reset the display. The 500 page operator's manual was obviously originally written by someone whose native language was pig latin, and then computer translated to something somewhat resembling English! And when the temperature drops, regardless of how much snow you must clean off the vehicle, you must start it every morning, or the "live sensors" will run down the battery. Back on the touchscreen, since this thing has more computer capacity than NASA, would it be too much to ask to have an option to replace the icons with text? We bought it for trips; it has evolved into "driveway eye candy". 4-wheel drive it is, and less predictable on slick roads than my 53-year-old pick-up truck. I am reminded of a true story when a departed friend who owned an import dealership in the 1970's, and his chief mechanic attended a new car "familiarization" meeting. The factory rep told of all the new improvements to the new model. When he was finished, my friend's chief mechanic stated: "Huh, some vehicles make improvements, "xxxxx" just makes changes"! We have "improved" these "vehicles" until they REALLY need improving! End of rant! Jon.

Solutions, in order of difficulty: (1) Learn to live with it! (2) Stop filling the gasoline tank with fuel (eventually, the wicking will stop) (3) Leave the garage door open (won't stop the wicking, but will reduce the smell) (4) Replace the carburetor with (UGH) fuel injection, and a sealed system (5) Build a refinery, and refine your own gasoline, rather than the fuel we can currently buy. If it makes you feel any better, it takes about 3 weeks for the fuel (it ain't gasoline) smell in my garage to cease after I have parked a 1979 model car. PS - there is a (6) but if mentioned, the thread would be locked Jon.

I saw a similar thread on the H.A.M.B. I personally use Dawn dishwater soap in an ultrasonic cleaner. For more aggressive cleaning agents - BE CAREFUL! DON'T BELIEVE ANYTHING POSTED ON THE INTERNET, CONSULT WITH LOCAL PROFESSIONALS! Why? Carter carburetor made autochoke housings from both zinc alloy, and aluminum. There are some folks that have the opinion "if it fits, it will work". A very dirty aluminum choke housing looks very much like a very dirty zinc alloy choke housing. Caustic lye works great on zinc alloy. Caustic lye on aluminum will dissolve the aluminum and emit a poisonous gas! Your wife may use the money you save, on a more expensive coffin for you! What you use may well depend on what you are cleaning. Jon.

Today's electronic fuel injection systems monitor engine temperature, and some electronic whizbang (probably non-adjustable) located somewhere on the vehicle richens the fuel mixture to compensate for the temperature. Carburetors with automatic chokes monitor engine temperature, and the automatic choke located on the carburetor (and adjustable) richens the fuel mixture to compensate for the temperature. Neither will deliver peak efficiency until the engine is warmed to normal operating temperature. If one has a real temperature gauge (not an "idiot light"), generally one can watch the gauge and determine when the thermostat operates. After the SECOND operation of the thermostat, the temperature will be close to normal. In the FWIW category, my modern electronic whizbang requires about 6 miles at 70 MPH after about 1 1/2 miles of city driving with an ambient around 40 to hit normal temperature. For mostly city driving, the adjustment of the automatic choke, AND the idle mixture screw adjustment, will effect mileage. Jon.

According to information in my database, the engine would have been a Continental type N, 4 cylinder 221 CID. The original carburetor would have been an updraft Stromberg M-1. The carburetor pictured appears to be a Stromberg from a mid-1930's Dodge. Jon.

Suggestion: DO NOT ADJUST THE LEVEL BY BENDING THE FLOAT ARM!!!!! Adjust the level by changing the thickness of the sealing washer for the fuel valve seat. Jon.

Mark - to add to your misery, the Zenith is wider than the Stromberg, as the Zenith float is a double pontoon, whereas the Stromberg is a single pontoon. Jon.

Quote "Jon, what are your thoughts on running a UUR2? Assuming there was some way to get it to fit." End quote I DETEST adapters to try to adapt different number of barrels. Did some research on these 40 years ago TRYING to come up with a replacement for the UUR-2 and Schebler Duplex carbs, for those not independently wealthy. What I found (1) The adapter MUST be a minimum of 4 inches in height, smoothing the transition from 1 to 2 barrels. (2) An engine with the UUR-2 or Schebler Duplex would require a size 4 single barrel replacement. The same engine size, when equipped with a 1 barrel, would use a size 3 1 barrel. (3) Was NEVER able to make even the size 4 carb run as well through an adapter as recasting the plenum on the intake to accept a size 3 single barrel. So, guessing (opinion): (1) If one recasts the plenum to accept the UUR-2, it certainly could be calibrated to run the engine far better than any Tillotson! (2) Rather than recast for the very expensive UUR-2, I would suggest recasting to fit a Stromberg SF-3 or Zenith 63AW12 single barrel. Either could be calibrated to handle the 385 CID; however if the car was to be used in vintage racing, I would cast it for a Stromberg SF-4 or Zenith 63AW14. In the for what its worth category (you Packard purists ignore this sentence), we have replaced the Detroit Lubricator carb on a number of Super 8 Packards (drivers) with Stromberg SF-4 single barrels, and one of the smaller internal venturi. We have had a few folks that bought cars from folks that talked to us, then bought the first SF-4 they could find, and found the normally found venturi in the SF-4 too large for the Super 8 Packard. Once the correct venturi was installed, the Packard owners were impressed. Note that the Super 8 Packard engine is 385 CID. For normally driving the increased air velocity in the smaller SF-3 would improve driveability, but might lose a few ponies at WOT if the car was used for vintage racing. While the DL is a great carburetor, if properly rebuilt, and set up; both the Stromberg and Zenith are significantly better! And just for the record, I would rather see an entire new intake designed for TWO smaller single barrels, than a UUR-2 through an adapter! EDIT: the Stromberg UUR-2 might be an excellent choice if it would fit the two-barrel manifold. Calibration is certainly possible. Jon.