carbking

Just for the record, according to surviving Stromberg records for the type K: Size 1: K-1 (Allen and Hatfield) KO-1 (Overland) Size 2: KR-2 (Jeffrey) Jon

According to Stromberg, the K-1 (similar to the KR-2, but definitely NOT interchangeable) was sold to Allen for a short time in 1916. Sometime in mid-1916, the K-1 was replaced with an M-1, and the K-1 was discontinued for Allen. The Hatfield did use the K-1 into 1917 (possibly because the model was held over). Jon.

Good luck on finding an SV-34 Ball & Ball carburetor! Before watching the video, the number 34 was not in my Ball and Ball (S)ingle (V)enturi database. Lots of holes in Penberthy Ball & Ball information. In 1925, Studebaker used three different SV carbs on the Big Six passenger car: SV-14, SV-29, and SV-30. In 1926, the SV-33 was used on the passenger Big Six. By 1927, while retaining the Ball & Ball carburetor, Studebaker started using Stromberg carbs, and by 1929, the Ball & Ball was discontinued. Both S.A.E. size 2 and size 3 Strombergs were used, and were cross-flanged. Unless it is absolutely necessary to retain the Ball & Ball, I would consider either an OX-2 or OX-3 Stromberg, depending on the intake manifold flange size (S.A.E. 2 or 3). These are not common, but at least one has a better chance of finding one than winning an argument with the IRS Jon.

We no longer restore carbs, but can furnish a rebuilding kit; if that helps. Jon.

No, insufficient demand. The one pictured is new old replacement stock. Jon.

Of course, the real solution to the float: Brass float top Brass float side Jon

Wear a mask when carving, sanding, whatever! Formaldehyde particles are not good for the lungs! Jon

Thank you! Jon.

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Bracke_1.jpg https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Bracke_3.jpg Experimental carburetor done by Bracke, a division of Holley, trying to woo back Ford from using Stromberg. Jon.

Quote "Any ideas what this carburetor came off...? Does anyone out there recognize it...?" End quote. Nothing Yes Jon.

Just found 2 rolls of color slides I took of the Great American Race in July 1985. This would have been a stop in central Missouri. Did not write down the location, but Dad & I went to stops in different years in Jefferson City, Rolla, and Boonville. If any interest, free for the postage. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.

According to Carter and Stromberg records, both were used for domestic vehicles, so judging should not be an issue; however, with any judging question, the convening authority should be consulted in advance. I have no record of a Stromberg being offered for non-domestic use (i.e. Canada) while Carter did offer one. While not a part of your question, a couple of comments: The Stromberg WW, once professionally rebuilt, is virtually trouble-free if reasonable service (fuel and air filter changes) is done. Stromberg used an aluminum throttle body, which will often give issues at roughly 50,000 miles; but once rebushed, and a new throttle shaft installed, this issue disappears. This specific Stromberg has an additional issue; Stromberg used an experimental power (economizer) valve in this carburetor ONLY. Today, new old stock valves are virtually impossible to find; and thus must be machined one-off (read quite expensive). If yours is good, don't worry about it. The Carter, with Carter's metering rod technology, has an advantage for touring if large altitude differences are encountered; as the carburetor may easily be adjusted for altitude with different metering rods. Both are excellent carbs. Jon.

Long run, rebuild the carb with new parts. Short term (to get the car running, maybe) try the thinner washer. Thanks m-mman Jon

The inverted flare seat with the neoprene washer was originally developed by Parker Brothers, in Tulsa. It was sold as the "Master" valve. We used thousands of them maybe 35~40 years ago. About 35 years ago, Paul got fed up with some regulations then being implemented by you know who; placed the entire existing inventory in scrap brass, closed the doors, and went fishing! It is my understanding that Daytona is now making some of the valves, certainly not the coverage that Paul had. Since there were 4 different diameter plungers, and dozens on different lengths, good luck on finding a correct one. Jon.

OK, you DEFINITELY have a mismatch. The inverted cone fuel valve was used with an aluminum plunger with a flat neoprene washer that sealed against the inverted cone (flare). The pointed needle will NOT seal with that seat. FLAPS = (F)riendly (L)ocal (A)uto (P)arts (S)tore. Jon.

To properly set the fuel level, you need a fuel pressure gauge, a rule, and an adjustable fuel pump/regulator. Fuel level (NOT FLOAT LEVEL) should be 5/8 inch below the top of the fuel bowl, with the valve shutting off the inlet fuel AT 3 PSI. When you are ready, I have made in USA rebuilding kits, and new old stock original Stromberg (made in USA) stock floats. Neither are priced at new import prices. Jon.

BEFORE BENDING MORE ON THE FLOAT!!!!!!!!!!!! Remove the seat. Take the seat to your local FLAPS, and find the thinnest gasket (hopefully a rubberized aluminum one) the will fit the seat. Reinstall the seat with the thin washer. This will allow the seat, and valve, to project further into the fuel bowl, and help with the adjustment. Agree with those who have posted that the needle should have no groove, but the groove is a normal function of wear, and I have seen a LOT WORSE that still held pressure. In the long run, it needs replacing. In the short run, try the thin gasket. Jon.

Difficult to tell for sure from the picture; however: It appears that possibly there is a mis-match of float and fuel valve. When the valve is closed, the tang on the float should be perpendicular to the fuel valve plunger; and the top of the float should be approximately level with the world. The tang appears to be at an angle, which just doesn't work well. It appears that the tang on the float is bent too far, and not actually shutting off the valve. Stromberg used a number of different floats; the one you have looks from the top correct, but the tang may be in the wrong position. The gasket on the fuel valve seat may be too thick. Jon.

Website has now been corrected. Mercury carburetor listing Jon

This thread just goes to prove one should always question. So, after reviewing the SECOND (older) Holley book (printed form was not in the first, only the service form). 1952 Mercury with standard transmission carb List R-694-A Mercury number EAC-9510-E2 1953 Mercury with standard transmission carb List R-694-1A Mercury number EAC-9510-L (service for EAC-9510-E2) 1952-1953 Mercury with standard transmission carb List R-694-2A (no Mercury number listed) (service for EAC-9510-E2, EAC-9510-L) Later (I believe 1955) all three of the above were service by List R-882-A Mercury EAC-9510-K, which also serviced vehicles with automatics. The "9510" is the FoMoCo group number for "carburetor", and while technically a portion of the part number, it is normally omitted from listings. Thus most listings, including mine now that I have corrected it, would list List R-694-A (or just List 694) EAC-E2. And while I have corrected by database, updating the website takes more time. Rebuilding kits, as well as many other parts not contained in the kit, are readily available. EDIT: you mentioned wanting a needle and seat. We don't sell kit components individually, but since you brought an error in my files to my attention, the part number is 18R-19A. Perhaps another vendor does offer the valve separately, I do not know. Jon.

(egg on face emoji) Somehow, when the information in the various Holley books was digitized, this one was overlooked. Looks like I am the one needing to do more research. There will be a rebuilding kit available Monday of next week. Jon.

You might consider re-checking that number; I have no record of such a carburetor number in my carburetor database of more than 100,000 records. Jon.

The pictured shaft is normal, that is not a gold rivet. The arm will have two parallel "flats", which slide over two corresponding machined "flats" on the throttle shaft. The shaft protrudes slightly through the arm. A shallow hole is machined in the end of the throttle shaft. To assemble, the arm is slid over the shaft, and the placing in a rotating machine (lathe). Using the shallow hole as a start, the end of the shaft protruding past the arm is now "spun" over the arm, affixing it to the shaft. The arm was never meant to be removed! If there is a spring behind the arm, the throttle shaft should be removed from the throttle body. BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE THROTTLE PLATES, GRIND OFF THE BACK SIDES OF THE SCREWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The back sides of the screws are "staked" over the shaft to prevent them loosing, coming out, and disappearing in the engine. New screws are available (6x32x5/16 oval head brass). The Carter Carburetor School headmaster taught me to use blue Loctite when replacing the screws, rather than attempt to stake them. Even though I have a factory Stromberg hand staking tool, I do use the blue Loctite. Jon

Terry - I would LOVE to have one of the laser cutters, but too busy (or maybe too old ) to learn to use the software to clean up the scans. For the younger folks out there, small "home" lasers are reasonable in price. The problem for me being, that even the salesman states, cleaning the scan will take at least an hour once one has learned how to use the software. A typical gasket that I cut by hand is cut maybe once in 5 years, and takes 10~15 minutes. Just not time-feasible to do the laser at my age. Jon.

HP P2050 will take 0.015. Have not tried others, perhaps a bad generalization. Jon