carbking

Incorrect information. Case, Hudson, Michigan, Rambler, Reo, and Stafford used this carburetor. Jon.

Stromberg placed the vent on the EE series size 2 and 3. The OP's carb is a size 1. Jon.

FOR SALE:Rochester 7019066 4 barrel carburetor for the 1961 Tempest 4 cylinder with the 4-barrel option, and automatic transmission.Carburetor evidently is a GM rebuild, as it is in a GM Rochester box, is rebuilt, and still has the original tag. The commercial rebuilders would have removed the tag.Can email (NOT PM) pictures if desired.Price $400. plus shipping which will be $75. within the 48 contiguous United States.573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time)Email username is carbqueen, ISP is sbcglobal which is a dot net.Will leave here until next week-end. If it does not sell before, will go to Ebay at a higher price.Jon.

FOR SALE: Rochester 7010925 4-barrel carburetor for 1957 Oldsmobile new old stock in original box (1 only). Can email pictures if requested. Not smart enough to text pictures or post on this forum, so please don't ask. VISA/MasterCard accepted. Price is $475. plus shipping. Shipping within the 48 contiguous United States is $75. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time) Email username is carbqueen, ISP is sbcglobal which is a dot net. Will leave here until next weekend. If not sold, it will then go to ebay at a higher price. Jon.

Agree with Gary. The brand that comes to mind is Southwind; there may have been others. Southwind kits would consist of the heater, some copper tubing, a fitting to mount onto the carburetor, and a spacer that fit between the carburetor and intake manifold with a vacuum take-off. The installation routed the vacuum from the spacing through the heater to the fitting on the carburetor. Showing my age, but every school bus I ever rode had one for the driver. The save-us-from-ourselves folks would probably be mortified if they saw one, but I cannot remember one ever catching fire. Generally, the hole in the top of the fuel bowl would be along one edge, such that the copper tubing would slide down beside the float. The one pictured appears to have the float directly under the hole. Jon.

I have been attempting to sell our shop, with no positive results, so selling off the inventory by the section.For 40 years, I have kept any good castings when we parted out a carburetor.So going to sort these used castings by manufacturer (Carter or Rochester). Most of the Rochester stuff will be Q-Jet castings from 1965 through 1974. I never parted anything newer than 1974. There will also be some 2G and 4G castings in the Rochester group. The Rochester group will be several hundred pounds.I will sort the Carter stuff into two groups: 1950 to 1974, and pre-1950.There will also be some smaller groups (Stromberg, Holley, Tillotson, Zenith, and miscellaneous).Shipping: absolutely no shipping, pickup in Eldon, Missouri only.Price: we will weigh the castings by section, and call the local scrap metal folks. We will then sell that lot for twice the scrap price.Have not sorted these yet (and won't if there is no interest). If there is interest, will get an exact weight and price for the category of interest.Will also sell individual castings, but at retail prices, not scrap prices. These I will ship. My inventory of these is by part number NOT casting number, so if looking for individual castings, please give me a part numberAny interest, please either call or email (I don't look at PM's, as they are different on every forum).Telephone 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time).Email username is carbqueen, ISP is sbcglobal which is a dot net.Just to give you an idea, I have 178 boxes of these castings.Jon

I have no repair data on these carbs; check the carburetor section in your factory shop manual. Jon.

PROBABLY Autolite C6AF-9510-F, unless it was sold new in California. Jon.

Unfortunately, we no longer have the time to rebuild carburetors, due to the explosion of the carburetor rebuilding kit business. We make kits for most (not all) antique carburetors. So far, the only usable literature I have found on the Ball & Ball carbs is in factory parts books for the car makes, such as Studebaker. The semantics gets really interesting. For years, I searched for a "4-barrel" carb used on a late teens "racing" Oldsmobile. Turns out it was the normal 2-barrel DV Ball & Ball. Penberthy/Ball & Ball called the single barrels SV (single venturi) and the two-barrels DV (double venturi). Other companies add the number of air intakes (the Ball & Ball carbs have a primary and a secondary air intake that merge into a single barrel). Of course, so did Schebler, and other makes that manufactured air valve carburetors. I personally call them either SV or DV, as did Perberthy. If some owner wants to call his double venturi Penberthy https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_virtual_museum.htm#Lesserknownbrands a four-barrel, I don't really care. There is a picture of the "four barrel" on the far right of the second line of pictures in the link. JRA - since I do not have each of the various carbs to examine, nor literature on them all; I cannot answer your question. Jon.

All that I have is in the list in the next to last column. There are many different series. However, they do not have a fixed format such as the model 51's. And they do not all bolt up the same. From memory: 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 1 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 2 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 3 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 1 cross-flange 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 2 cross-flange 2-hole updraft S.A.E. 3 cross-flange 3-hole updraft (Hudson) 2-hole sidedraft with figure "S" in the updraft "L" 2-hole sidedraft with no figure "S" in the updraft "L" 4-hole sidedraft (Essex) 4-hole updraft 2-barrel (Regal) Jon.

While Stromberg did not show LaSalle using the AA-25 (205-1) in 1937, some aftermarket carburetor listings DID show this application. Stromberg suggested that if this carburetor needed to be replaced, it should be replaced with type AAV-26 (205-14B). 205-14B was original to Cadillac in 1946-1948. My records show the LaSalle engine to be a 322 CID versus the Cadillac being a 346. I do not believe I would want to use the Cadillac carb on the smaller engine. Stomberg DOES show a replacement AAV-26 specifically calibrated for the LaSalle engine. This carb was aftermarket only (it has no LaSalle part number), and Stromberg did not issue a catalog page for the unit. I probably have the specifications somewhere on 500 foot rolls of microfilm. Today, such a carb would have to be a custom (read $$$$) build, once the specifications were found. Quote "I believe the Stromberg is a better carb" end quote. "Better" is a slippery slope, and subject to opinion. I think it is safe to say that Stromberg's quality control was better than Carter's at this time. I think it is safe to say that Carter's calibrations were more linear than Stromberg's at this time. "Better" would depend on the criteria most important to the individual. Both are excellent carbs. While a moot point if the car is never shown, the Stromberg AAV-26 should lose points in a points judged class. If I were going to do a replacement, it would be the 460s Carter which was a factory LaSalle carb and was suggested as a factory replacement for the 423s. Jon.

Suggestion (without actually seeing your bowl cover): The hex nut was a 5/8 by 20 thread. The early (original) nuts actually mike at 0.618 instead of 0.625. The later (screw machine) nuts actually mike at 0.615. I would consider acquiring an 11/16 by 20 ADJUSTABLE die, adjust it down to maybe 0.640, and make a new nut out of brass AND one out of steel. Cut grooves in the steel nut perpendicular to the thread to make a custom tap. Gently tap the bowl cover with the steel "die" using the original threads as a guide. Then install the new brass but with a new fiber washer. Jon.

I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but: Carter 423s bowl cover part number 146-87s. Checking the Carter Master Parts Index printed in 1944. 146-87s - 423s ONLY In other words, the bowl cover 146-87s was unique to the 423s. Will others fit??? I do not know without trying; but all others are different. For those who are unaware, Carter published a Master Parts list in 1944 that covered every part of virtually every carburetor from 1923 through 1944 by part number, and then listed the carburetors each part fit. A later list was published in 1959. These are two of the most useful carburetor documents ever published by Carter. According to friends at Carter some 40 years ago, the 1959 list was the last, unfortunately. EDIT: Just for the record: 460s - 146-100s 506s - 146-100s 419s - 146-79s 440s - 146-79s 474s - 146-79s 448s - 146-79s Jon.

As a general rule on newer carburetors, for setting Zenith carburetor floats, Zenith's suggestion was that if a new float and new fuel valve were used, the float would be correctly set. However, in 1957, Zenith did publish a guide for VISUAL CHECK ONLY for floats on older carburetors. Here is that list: https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Zenith_float_settings.jpg Remember, NEVER bend a Zenith float for adjustment. If the dimension is incorrect, then adjust by changing the thickness of the float valve seat gasket. Jon.

The Schebler models D and M, as mentioned earlier, were used on a large group of passenger, motorcycle, truck, tractor, agricultural, industrial, and marine applications. The model D came in 6 different physical sizes. The model M came in 3 different physical sizes. The earlier versions have no markings that will help with absolute application. By the late 1920's, at least some of the tractor versions had the identification number STAMPED on the bowl. An example would be DX-320 used on a Hart-Parr. Many of these carburetors have NO throttle; the throttle valve being incorporated in the intake manifold. The "gate valve" throttle was early; not sure exactly when it was discontinued, but would GUESS very early 'teens. The design is interesting in that the throttle casting could be interchanged with the air valve casting; thus the carburetor could be configured as either an updraft or sidedraft unit. When rebuilt with a new air valve and air valve spring, these carburetors are some of the very best and most reliable of the early carburetors. Once engines with higher RPM became more common, these carbs became less useful. Finding literature on these things is more difficult than winning an argument with the IRS!!! I have repeatedly begged for photocopies from O.E. factory parts manuals, with very little success. The original Schebler literature covers the 6 "standard" model D carbs, 3 Hart-Parr, and a couple of John Deere. The model M is simply a model D with a check valve. There is another carburetor labeled "Acorn" which is identical to the model D, excepting the name. I do not know the relation of the Acorn to the Schebler. Jon.

1932 and 1933 carburetors have 1 3/16 cast into the bowl. 1934 and newer carburetors have 1 5/16 cast into the bowl. Jon.

In the FWIW category: There are a huge number of "porch pirates" following carrier vehicles (UPS, USPS, FedEx,etc.). For this reason, EVERY package of value we ship WE REQUIRE a hand signature. We will not accept the digital signature. This is true regardless of which carrier we use (USPS for 3 pounds and under, UPS for other). This forces the carrier to place the package in the hands of the consignee! Jon.

Marty - to my knowledge, ALL Rayfields were designed for gravity flow (maybe 1 psi, absolutely no more than 1 .5 psi). What kind of fuel pressure do you have? Jon.

If you are running a vacuum tank: Check the vacuum supply valve to the vacuum tank. If it fails, and they do; fuel will BYPASS the carburetor and be drawn directly from the vacuum tank into the intake manifold. Makes for a very rich condition. Jon.

There was a thread on another forum about using a slotted screwdriver for working on Rochester power valves to prevent damage. This tool also works on Stromberg power valves. But, both Carter and Stromberg supplied a tool for their power valves (or the Carter multiple jet) that is much better for someone that works on carburetors more than occasionally. This tool may be made (or acquire one of the factory tools). A word picture: One starts with a piece of 7/16 inch steel rod about 6 inches in length, and a junk 3/8 drive socket Chuck the rod into one's lathe and drill a hole in one end 3/4 inch deep using a number 42 drill (0.093) inch. Now, remove the rod from the lathe, and using a milling machine, remove 0.196 material from the both sides of the same end, leaving a "screwdriver" blade 0.040 wide, and 0.075 tall. Cut the socket drive from the socket, and weld the opposite end of the rod to the socket drive. Observe that when using the tool on a power valve, the power valve plunger will be inserted into the center hole, thus no force will be exerted on the plunger, thus no damage to the seat will occur. Also observe the "screwdriver" blade has a straight "vertical" rather than the tapered "vertical" of a conventional screwdriver; thus the slot will not be damaged on power valves one tries to remove from carburetors that one salvaged from the bottom of a pond And the old saying "a picture is worth a 1000 words"; here are three: https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Po...lve-tool_1.jpg https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Po...lve-tool_2.jpg https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Po...lve-tool_3.jpg Jon

Leaking well plugs were an issue with Quadrajets from 1965 through very early 1968; then fixed by the manufacturer. Rochester devised the foam as a "patch" for the carbs in the sentence above. It appears that Dr. Goodpliers (the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench) has been working on the OP's carb. Jon.

The original Detroit Lubricators are excellent carburetors; both efficient and reliable after being professionally restored. However, generally having a machine shop at your disposal when doing a rebuild after 80 years doesn't hurt. If you can make the Marvel think it is a carburetor, you should be able to have the Detroits decode the Rosetta Stone. Jon.

Bill - if the choke and fast idle settings are correct; then the car engine should be on a faster idle than normal until the choke is completely open, as the fast idle cam will control the idle. This faster idle helps to minimize or eliminate hesitation from idle. If these settings are not correct (and should be set on the car), it does not matter if the carburetor is new or who rebuilt it. If the idle drops before the engine is warm, hesitation is normal. This is one of my objections to electric chokes on older vehicles with automatic transmissions. The engine should stay on some fast idle until the thermostat opens completely. One other comment: we have corrected a ton of "carburetor off-idle hesitation" issues by suggesting to the owner that the pertronix be removed from the distributor, and points and condenser reinstalled. The units seem to run well at cruise, but have idle/off idle issues, especially if the engine has not been upgraded to an alternator. The generator provides insufficient voltage to fire the electronics until the RPM's are increased. Jon.

The Zenith 631AW16 comes in 9 different internal venturi sizes, so it may be used on engines from 404 to 1230 CID. Make certain you get the right 63AW16 Jon.

Sometimes semantics get in the way of understanding. To some, blocking the heat is a matter of filling the cross-over on the intake or using stainless manifold gaskets to block the heat from the intake. If this is done, the choke will never work the way it was designed, and low speed hesitation is probably going to happen. To others, blocking the heat on many V engines is a matter of plugging a heat channel where the carburetor is bolted to the intake. This generally may be done. I might add that, due to a lot of posts about blocking the manifold for increased performance (about 1.5 percent at WOT), I did this on my personal very high performance Pontiac GTO (in addition to 1.5 percent at 6000 RPM the paint doesn't burn off of the crossover). In 62 years of playing with vehicles, this was absolutely the DUMBEST move I ever made!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Finally had to replace the carburetor with one with a manual choke to be able to drive the car in town for the first 30 minutes after start up! Now, with the manual choke, I can pull the choke out appropriately at each stop light/stop sign to keep the engine from stalling! Jon.