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Mark Hatton

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  1. It has the correct Marvel Carb, with the brass float chamber
  2. I have replaced the cork float on my 1918 Buick with another one made from a wine bottle cork. This has instantly stopped the flooding problem. My question is how far from the top rim of the float bowl should the fuel level be? My fuel level is about 3/4" from the top rim of the float bowl, which looks a bit low to me. I can easily adjust it by bending the float arm or trimming the cork float. I live in the UK
  3. I live in the UK and have just bought a 1918 Buick E45 six. It is a great car that came from Kansas in 2016, and had been owned by one family until then. The motor needs a complete rebuild soon, though the car is running and driving. I need a set of pistons and wondered if anyone had any advice on where to get some, or what pistons from other applications might fit. I know that Egge can make a set if necessary. I have put an ad in the parts wanted section.
  4. I live in the UK, and have a 1918 Buick E-6-45 Tourer. I need a set of six pistons. Anybody help or have advice? I know I can get them made by Egge.
  5. I live in the UK and run a 1937 Buick Special 40 Trunkback. Last week I had a shunt whilst driving in France and have damaged the front of the car quite badly. The right hand front grill broke into several pieces, so I either need a complete right hand grill to rechrome, or the top half of an old broken grill to repair mine with. Part of two of the slats are missing as I couldn't find them on the road after the accident. I have tried Bob Carruba and Dave Tacheny, but no luck there. Anyone help? I use this car as regular transport, so it does a few miles!
  6. Thanks for the lead, appreciated. However, mine don't look at all like this. Mine are 3.5ins long, thin, and live in the spline. My previous post referred to Synchro cone, I actually meant to say synchro drum.
  7. I live in the UK, and run a 37 Buick 40 series Special. I've got the transmission apart and need to find a set of three NOS detent springs (which live under the sliding gear), and a rear sychro cone (the large one for intermediate). I have already sourced a NOS front syncro cone from Bob's which is good news. Can anyone help?
  8. I forgot to mention, I fitted two new syncro hubs, bought from Bob's.
  9. Both these replies are helpful, and thanks for making the effort to respond so quickly and with images! I Have renewed the engine & tranny mounts about 18 months ago, so I don't believe these are affecting the gearchange, as I have done 2000 miles since then, no problems. I have put the large flat rubber insulators under the rear springs (which were missing), but can't see this altering things transmission-wise.. I was very careful to put it all back in the right order (twice!), so don't think I left anything out. I shall check this even more carefully when I take it out again. I would like to buy the second gear from you, Pete. Can we liaise by e-mail so that I can make the arrangements to pay you etc? I am at mpchatton@gmail.com Alternatively I could call you if you let me have your number. I might be interested in any other new tranny bits you might have. Mark
  10. I live in the UK and have a problem with the tranny on my 1948 model 56 Sedanet. It is a 3 speed manual RHD. I have had it for 10 years and the transmission always worked well, but was noisy. It never jumped out of gear, and changed gear fine, though a bit 'crunchy'. I took the tranny apart last August renewed all the bearings seals etc, and also the 1st/ reverse sliding gear (good secondhand) and 2nd/ 3rd sliding gear (new from Bob's). I also replaced the very worn UJ with a new one. Everything worked perfectly on the bench. Driving the car and changing through the gears, all the gears work perfectly except for 2nd gear. It does not want to go in at any speed and makes a loud grinding noise. If I stop the engine, engage 2nd gear and hold it in firmly on the column change, it will just about stay in, but always immediately jumps out on the over-run. My guess is that the problem is with the interface between the new 2nd/3rd sliding gear, and the mating surface on 2nd gear, as everything else works perfectly, and the tranny is generally much quieter than before. In an ideal world I would get another complete transmission, but as my car is RHD the selector shafts for the gears exit on the right side of the transmission, so all LHD cars have a different transmission shell. Would anyone know of, or have, a new 2nd gear? this would mean that the mating surfaces between the 2nd/3rd sliding gear and 2nd gear would then both be new. Has anyone any further ideas? I have toyed with the idea of fitting a completely different transmission, but the torque tube/UJ arrangement makes this difficult. I have actually had the transmission out twice since August, but there is no obvious cause for this problem Mark Hatton
  11. I live in the UK, and have a 48 56S and a 37 40 Special. I need a Universal Joint for the 1937 40 Special, and have been unable to source one as I have been told by several suppliers, inc Bob's Automobilia that they are not currently being manufactured. I have had the tranny rebuilt and have fitted a new clutch & ring gear, so want to fix the UJ while the axle is off the car. What I am looking for is a NOS 'web', hardened steel bearings and clips, that might be parked on someone's workshop shelf, to fit to my UJ! I use the car as you would a modern car, so do around 2000 miles a year in it, so want it right. The UJ is not terminally worn, but does cause some vibration at constant speeds. The big bronze bush on the exit shaft has been replaced recently, so no problem there. Can anyone help??
  12. I live in the UK, and have two Buicks, a 48 56S and a 37 40 Special. I have got the gearbox off the 37 series 40, and have fitted new bearings etc, and have also fitted a new ring gear and clutch. Whilst the axle is off the car, I would like to get the Universal Joint rebuilt, as there is some play in it. Bob's Automobilia hasn't got a replacement web & bearings, and suppliers in the UK can't help with this. All have told me that new bearings are not currently being made. I really need to source a NOS item that somebody might have on their shelf! I'll pay any reasonable price. Though my UJ isn't terminal, access is difficult, as all Buick owners will know, so I want to address this whilst the axle is off. I use both Buicks as you would a modern car, so they each do more than 2000 miles a year. Can anyone help, or give me any leads??
  13. I didn't know the Dynaflow engines had a different crank, so shall be aware of this - thanks. My gearbox has a damaged gear, so it makes rhythmic clicking noise in first and second. It also jumps out of first sometimes, but can be easily held in gear no problem when you know. It is completely quiet in top. I know of a complete 39 Coupe for sale in the UK, and was hoping that both the engine and gearbox would fit. I won't buy it for the engine alone, as it is too expensive for that now I know that the gearbox is not the same. My gearbox is certainly useable, especially as it is great in top!
  14. Ben, I hadn't imagined that replies would come so quickly! I'll look for a motor and transmission, as I would like to have a spare. I would be interested in your 248 motor if it was available, assuming that I haven't sorted out another one beforehand, and you are prepared to help me get it to the UK. I haven't yet decided how to deal with the problems my motor has. I was originally planning to replace the shell bearings, fit new pistons, and check out the valves etc (a 'light' rebuild), which I could do without taking out the motor. This may still be possible if I could pick up a full set of later rods. A decent replacement motor would likewise be a quick fix, hence my interest in yours! Regards, Mark
  15. Thanks for that. I have encountered Dave Tacheny before a few years ago when he supplied me with a distributor for my 48 56S. I shall contact him again
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