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Everything posted by carbking

  1. The first issue is understanding the issue! The symptoms mentioned by the OP in post 1 are NOT a result of vapor lock, rather exactly the opposite (too much pressure)! http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstarthot The above link describes what happens when the engine is turned off. The same thing happens when the engine sits for a period of time idling, except that fuel both "puddles" in the intake manifold, and also vapors fill the air cleaner. The insulation provided by the OP proves the issue, as the insulation made the eff
  2. Mike - in the for what its worth category, checking both the factory Zenith and Stromberg records: Zenith - no record of a sale to Republic for the 11X; no record of a T-4 sold to Continental for the model N engine. Stromberg - sold the M-1 to Republic for use on the 11X Of course, these records are 100 years old The Stromberg M-1 is much more common than the Zenith T-4 (you have to complete with the motorcycle dudes for the T-4), and parts also are much more common. Jon.
  3. Clifford - according to the information in my database, the 1919 Commerce used a Continental engine of 221 CID, and a Zenith type O-4 carburetor. The O-4 is fairly easy to find; but figure on an expensive rebuild. The reason being that 99 percent of the O-4 Zeniths that you find will be calibrated for a Chevrolet with a 171 CID engine. The main venturi and all of the jets will have to be replaced, and these do not grow on trees. Jon.
  4. Mike - a bit more investigation seems to be indicated. Pontiac 6 cylinder engines were a single barrel 2 bolt through 1952. In 1953, the Pontiac 6 used a WCD 4-bolt. Pontiac 8 cylinders from 1947 and newer were 4 bolt. Jon.
  5. Gary - one other item; the jets in the EX-23 or EX-32 DIFFER from those in the EE-1 (97). The thread on the main metering jets for both the EX-23 and EX-32 (P-17004) are a 7/16 inch thread, while those for the EE-1 (97) (P-19442) are 3/8 inch. Also, the power jets not only are a different thread, but also a different configuration. Padgett - both the Chevrolet W-1 and the Plymouth Ball & Ball have 1 1/4 inch venturii. The Ball & Ball has a larger air intake and a larger throttle bore. Bigger carb, less efficient. Jon.
  6. Gary - I must have missed something somewhere. In one post you mention (4) Stromberg EX-23 carbs, and in the post above this one (4) Stromberg EX-32 carbs??? Are we talking two different engines? The EX-23 is significantly smaller than the EX-32. Jon.
  7. I would suggest the original carburetor for the Buick 263 engine. In various years in the early 1950's, a number of different Carters and Strombergs were used. If you are speaking of the hand throttle, these pretty much disappeared from all passenger makes after WWII. If one really wants to hook up a hand throttle, pretty easy to modify any carburetor to accept one. Jon.
  8. Gary - Zenith flow-tested a similar carburetor at 180 CFM on the 1 barrel and 2 barrel scale, converts to about 130 CFM on the 4 barrel scale. Jon.
  9. Padgett - in the case of the 1947, the difference was only the carburetor, well, and the intake manifold. No other changes. I have mentioned this to a number of Plymouth enthusiasts that have then replaced the size 3 Ball & Ball carb with the size 2 W-1. ALL of them report both horsepower and economy gains. And if their Plymouth happens to be a 1947, why it is still "stock". It was a simple case of Plymouth recasting the 1939 intake (when Plymouth used the size 2 Ball & Ball carb) with a different casting number, and Carter supplying Plymouth with the W-1 574s
  10. Carburetor design went through a tremendous "learning curve" in the 1930's. A few makes maintained the updraft carbs through the mid-30's, but most went to the downdraft design. During this time period, the "size" of the carburetor was often less important than the design quality. Do a search on posts I have made where the 1947 Plymouth (size 3 Ball & Ball) carburetor, ran about 5 MPH faster (81 -> 86 MPH) using the size 2 Carter W-1 during the strike of the plant building the Ball & Ball carbs. How much extra horsepower does it require to add 5 MPH to 81 MPH
  11. Of course, if you guys get totally tired of trying to make the cork/foam floats work Jon.
  12. The original cork floats were coated with orange shellac. Modern fuel, with or without ethanol, will cut orange shellac like a hot knife cuts butter. Have tried several coatings, including gas tank sealer, but have not found a single one that can be used successfully to re-coat the cork, once it has been in fuel. We provide float pontoons from the modern closed-cellular nitraphyll (spelling) material in our rebuilding kits to replace the cork. The manufacturer states that since the material is "closed cellular", that the float does not need to be coated. I have NOT foun
  13. This link may be of interest: Automobile card main index Jon.
  14. You could always loosen the retainer for the fuel bowl, fill it with gasoline, and then start the engine. After the engine has gone through a few heating/cooling cycles, the fuel level will be close to what it is now. Jon.
  15. Lynn - with all due respect, I am not in the carburetor appraisal business. I attempted to convey that when I ignored a dollar value answer to your question in my first post. They are not rare, and there have been several listed, and a few sold on Ebay in the past few months. Once, they did command a premium to the "true believers" that gobbled up the hype (same folks that still believe in the tooth fairy ), but the internet has done a fair job of educating folks that 200 MPG out of a Chrysler slant six, or 80 MPG out of a Chrysler motor home is not going to happen in
  16. Looks to be one of the original Fish M-1 carbs, set up for a flathead Ford V-8. As far as value is concerned, with the Fish, it is a matter of aesthetics, not of functionality. As a matter of aesthetics, nice to see one with the decal. Jon.
  17. I can easily see both the buyer's and seller's prospective. I have personally done a better job with receipts on some of my vehicles than others. A a buyer, it never hurts to ask for receipts or pictures. But I would not expect the seller to show the receipts until I was ready to pay. His/her word that he/she had them would be enough initially. As a seller, I finally had enough of tire-kickers asking for pictures. Company policy is now: pictures are $50. each, refundable IF AND ONLY IF you purchase the item. Tell me what pictures you require, and give me you
  18. Chuck - message received. Check in todays mail. We seem to be on different pages. I have been sending PM's, and you have been posting here. Mailing/shipping address will be with the check. Once I get it so I can read the numbers, will post the Zenith family. Jon.
  19. Always a good idea to consider all options; however, I think you will find that just buying the materials to do the wiring will exceed the cost of the harness, regardless of whether you consider labor or not. Plus, with the harness, everything should be the correct color code, and banded together in the proper places. Jon
  20. The first Rochester single barrel carb was 1950 for Chevrolet. GM did suggest the use of the Rochester as a service replacement for older Carters, which was a bad idea for the car owners. In 1949, Chevrolet used the Carter W1 number 684s. Rochester did produce a two-barrel carburetor in 1949, the type AA 7001570 for the Oldsmobile 8. Jon
  21. Carbking is awaiting your driving impressions when comparing a rotary carburetor to a plain tube carburetor! This is only the third original application of a rotary throttle carburetor of which I am aware, and I have not heard of any driving impressions of the other two. The other two were 1915 Austin, and 1915-16 Owen-Magnetic, both which used Master carbs. Owen-Magnetic switched to Zenith in 1917. Austin switched to Stromberg in 1916. Both the Stromberg and the Zenith were plain tube carburetors. The big name in rotary carbs has always been Winfield; but those that I
  22. Try this link: Leak by throttle shaft Jon.
  23. What limited information I have shows the type D used on a 1919 Moore. Jon.
  24. The engine, when the ignition module was new, would often act like the distributor was at full advance when trying to do a hot start. Turn the key off, turn it back on, and would start normally. After 25,000~30,000 miles, the engine would start normally when hot, and once this happened, you knew within a few thousand miles, the ignition would die. Also had a 1980 Mustang that did NOT have the issue. Jon.
  25. Our 1979 Ford Econoline shop truck rusted out the third time (thanks to Missouri poor drivers requiring salt and cinders in the winter) at 440,000 miles. The cylinder head was never removed from the engine, and the engine still ran strong. We were forced to change the ignition module 13 times in 440,000 miles. I carried TWO spares and tools with me at all times. Also still have a 1979 turbo Cobra Mustang which I special ordered. It has always been garaged, never seen snow, rained on once (I couldn't get home in time), and currently has about 55,000 miles. Cu
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