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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Continuing research into the surviving Stromberg documents. The following brass carburetor TYPES are listed in the parts indexes, but there is no record of their application. These would all be earlier than 1920. If anyone has one of these Stromberg carburetor types, and a factory parts book, owners manual, shop manual, etc. showing either application or parts break-down, I would like to acquire copies. Types are: E (I know these were used on early Stearns, but no documentation) F (believe to be experimental only, not certain) GA GB GC GE (believe to be experimental only, not certain) HA HC SK The Stromberg application database currently stands at 11,327 different carburetors. I still add 1 or 2 each month as I check additional documents. EDIT: I should have mentioned that all of these are UPDRAFT carburetors. The E was reused in the early 1930's as a downdraft type. Thanks in advance. Jon
  2. Get a job as a vendor for about a week, and you WOULD understand! Customer pulls out a 20 power glass, and states "the 'S' in Stromberg on this carburetor has a nick in the lower bend, I give you half what you are asking". At that point, the original price is null and void and the "customer" can keep looking! Or the Chevrolet and Stromberg "expert" that once harrassed me at Iola that my kits were to high because we had parts in the kits not used in the carburetor. "Why do you have a power valve in the kit for the Stromberg 97, everyone knows the Stromberg 97 has no power valve". At that point it does no good to show the guy the original Stromberg sevice literature showing the power valve; all one can do is just walk away. We even had one Cord customer at Hershey that was so obnoxious that my Mother came out of the motor home with her rolling pin! And yes, there CAN be middle ground, but the middle ground depends on the attitude of the bargainer. And about once a year, I get a call (I do telephone orders) from someone who just has to be from a magazine testing our customer service. Absolutely no one could possibly be so arrogant or ignorant. All one can do is be polite, and tell the caller we do not have what he/she wishes; and thank them for calling. Jon.
  3. Revisited your pictures. One of the pictures appears to have a ball connection for the throttle, which would suggest possibly 1932 Ford rather than Chevrolet. Both used an S.A.E. size 2 (2 11/16 c-c) mounting flange. My initial guess of Chevrolet was because of the bowl cover, pump, and pump linkage, which is exceptionally similar to the Carter used on the Chevrolet, even to the exact location of the fuel inlet. The Ford fuel inlet is in a different area. Jon.
  4. Simmons was one of the "my dog is better than your dog" aftermarket carburetor manufacturers. I have seen Simmons replacements for Ford T, Ford A, and 1929-1931 Chevrolet. My GUESS would be this was a replacement for a 1932 Chevrolet. Should make a decent paperweight. Jon.
  5. Lots of various issues have hurt the swap meets. My guess for the top 4 would be: (1 or 2) Government regulations or Insurance (3) The internet (4) Lack of individuals willing to do the work, and put up with (1) and (2) above. We used to vend at Hershey, as well as several other meets. Iola, Wisconsin was our favorite meet. Jon.
  6. If I remember correctly (could look, but lazy), there is a bronze set of both series 1 and 2. The aluminum coins were handed out at the station, and when one got a complete set of the aluminum ones, they could be redeemed for a complete bronze set. EDIT: forgot I have these on my website. Follow this link, and scroll down to Sunoco: Jon.
  7. Terry - I well remember when those Wheaties emblems came out, and slightly later, the "bicycle license plates". I looked for a Missouri plate for as long as they ran the promotion (1954 and 1955), and never did get one out of a Wheaties box. The cereal was horrible, even the birds wouldn't eat it! Fortunately, Dad was a fisherman. We used to make catfish bait out of Wheaties, eggs, and chicken blood. The eggs were the glue, the Wheaties the stiffener, and the chicken blood gave it the odor that catfish loved. We caught lots of catfish on that homemade bait. Jon.
  8. Anyone collect stuff you cut off the backs of cereal boxes, etc.? In 1948, Kelloggs offered this one (set of 12 different) This one offered in France by Chevrolet (set of 3) This one is one of a set of 36 handed out when one purchased Shell gasoline in France in 1959 1953 Nabisco (set of 3 different) There are others. Jon.
  9. The short answer is: DON'T DO IT! The Rochester Quadrajet (opinion) is an excellent carburetor (although probably no better than the Carter Thermoquad). BOTH REQUIRE AN INTAKE MANIFOLD DESIGNED FOR A SPREAD-BORE CARBURETOR! You could always remove the hood, and hire a 15-year-old to sit on the fender and pour gas into the engine out of a leaky boot! Would probably work better than the adapter! Jon.
  10. Are the compression numbers from a current test, or from when you purchased the car? Not horrible, but not good either. Would be nice to have numbers from a current test. If you are in love with the electronic whizbangs, I will not attempt to change your mind; but (no offense meant) will not waste my time trying to debug a carburetor on a car with this conversion! If you absolutely must have the whizbang, an upgrade to an alternator is a necessity. A generator does not provide a stable voltage at idle, and can cause the whizbang to not bang correctly at idle. And just for the record, I do NOT own stock in the companies producing points and condensers. To add to Bloo's post above: the initial clearance from the throttle shaft to throttle body was 0.004~0.006 inch. 0.003 additional wear is acceptable. So, using a dial indicator, measure the clearance of the primary throttle shaft (the secondary will be fine). If it does not exceed 0.009 inch, forget about it. 0.010 or more, something to consider. Jon.
  11. Glad it worked for you! Now, for preventative medicine, drive and enjoy more often Jon.
  12. Before making this decision: (1) Have you done a compression check on the engine? (2) Have the original points and condenser been replaced by an electronic whizbang? (If so, try points and condenser before throwing rocks at the carb). Both the Carter WCFB and the Rochester 4-Jet use the same mounting gasket, so would assume that nothing would need to be done to the manifold. Both the Carter WCFB and the Rochester 4-Jet (opinion) are MUCH easier to rebuild than a Holley 4-barrel, and seems everyone is a Holley expert. If you have done a few carbs, see no reason why you shouldn't rebuild what you have. As to a comparison of the WCFB vs the 4-Jet (you didn't ask, but extra information): (Professional opinion) if both are professionally rebuilt, and you have a basically stock engine; you could have a mechanic install one and seal the hood, and drive it 1000 miles. Then have the mechanic change carbs, seal the hood, and drive another 1000 miles. At the end, you really would not have been able to tell the difference. Jon.
  13. Before doing anything else, I would suggest some testing. Since the engine had sat for a number of weeks, the carburetor was probably dry. But modern fuel, when it evaporates, leaves a gooey sticky glue-like substance in its place. Quite possible that one of the floats was temporarily glued in the open position, allowing the flooding. I would remove the air cleaner, fill the carburetor with FRESH fuel through the bowl vents, and with one individual operating the ignition, and another watching the carburetor, start the engine. Fresh gasoline is a good solvent, and if the above scenario is right, it may just be a one-time happening. Jon.
  14. Joe - Rochester began producing carburetors (well, supposedly , not very high on the early ones) in 1949. There is no 1936 Rochester carburetor. Exactly what is your application? Jon.
  15. Terry - the fuel level may be low. The gauge may be replaced with a "J-tube". Acquire a brass fitting which will screw into the drain plug hole. Acquire a length of clear plastic tubing (hot rod gas line) Attach the clear plastic tubing to the fitting, and run the OPEN end of the tubing about the top of the float chamber. Now turn on the fuel. As the tube is open ended, the fuel level in the tube will seek the same level as that in the bowl, and a measurement may be taken. Again, the measurement is 17 mm. Jon.
  16. Terry - the brochure isn't a lot of help. The main jet is adjusted at 1/4 throttle to give the smoothest running of the engine. There is no float setting! The fuel level in the bowl should be 17 mm above the bottom flange of the carburetor. This measurement is done using the adjustment gauge: This gauge screws into the bowl drain on the carburetor. Jon.
  17. I can find absolutely zero reference to a Lombard Truck in my reference library. Even the Branham manuals of the day do not list it, and they list virtually every car and truck made/sold in the USA. The Hercules YXC-2 engine is a much different story. I have dozens of references to different carburetors used by Hercules on the YXC-2. Virtually all were Zenith, with a couple of Strombergs. Parts are available for the Strombergs, and the vast majority of the Zeniths. EDIT: Upon further review (as the sports dudes say), I found an old newspaper listing from December 1928 where Lombard was absorbed by Linn. Searching earlier Branhams, I found the following: 1921 5-ton with 4 cylinder 4.75 x 6.5 (461 CID) 1921 10-ton Tractor Truck with 6 cylinder 5.75 x 7 (1091 CID) 1922 model 60 same as the 1921 4 cylinder 1922 model 100 same as 1921 6 cylinder but rated 30-50 tons! 1923 same models as 1922 Marque discontinued after 1923 model year. No serial number information given. Jon.
  18. Ebay 362694486796 George A. Breeze Zephyr carburetor. Opening bid $125. Buy it now $200. Final price includes free shipping within the 48 contiguous United States. Jon.
  19. Greg - it is a pretty grungy looking Autolite 4100. I am the wrong person to recommend a Holley, will defer that to someone else. If it were mine, I would get a quality rebuild 1958 or newer (since you are not concerned with originality) Autolite 4100, or better; I would modify a Carter to use. Jon.
  20. Now do you see why we insist on telephone calls, and not emails? Jon.
  21. CS-112 is a kit produced and sold by The Carburetor Shop. With no offense meant, will never try to determine if another manufacturer's kit is correct. But hope you don't need the transmission to shift using the pictured kit. And we have no intention of ever accepting orders by email, unless it is a confirmation of an order placed by telephone. And there is an EXCELLENT reason for shipping to Canada Registered mail only. Its called insurance. Jon.
  22. Interesting stamp. Carter literature indicates that the EV1 carb was used in early 1946 and superseded by the EV2 in late 1946. The EV2 was used in 1947. The stamp you picture shows a date code of November 1947. Kit CS-112 is correct. Jon
  23. In 1957, Ford had the following carburetor options for the 312: (1) single Autolite type 4100 (2) single Carter type AFB (3) single Holley type 4150 (4) dual Holley type 4000 (5) single Holley type 4000 w/supercharger Jon.
  24. Ed - over the years, I have had several customers send me castings such as you have; but all were Detroit Lubricator (at least that I remember). One individual sent me 10 bronze bowl castings that came from Asia for the Packard Standard 8. While the castings looked nice, each was approximately 7 percent undersize. I do not know what he knew concerning the bowls, but he offered me 9 of them if I would do the machining for him to get one for his Packard. I sat one of his side by side with a genuine DL bronze bowl with measuring devices on each pointing out the issue; and sent them back mentioning that I did not own a metal stretcher, and could not do the machining because of that. Didn't someone a "few" years ago mention "penny-wise, pound-foolish"? And I think you may be a bit low on your value range (other than the afore-mentioned military White truck UUR-2, where your range is too high). Jon.
  25. Ed - you are there with the castings, and I am here looking at pictures, but the bowl casting looks like a UUR-2 to me. Times have changed, but I DID get quotes on tooling to do these, as well as Stromberg UU-2, and EE-3 lots of years ago. I am not even going to think about considering to deliberate on reproduction, based on the quotes!!!!! The male and female dies for the EE-3, with replaceable inserts to cast the various venturii were just shy of $2 million, and that was 25 years ago. But if any of you that happen to be independently wealthy, and do not wish to remain that way, and wish to reproduce these; I probably have the original drawings available for a price. If interested, will require a notarized statement that the tooling and castings will be done in the USA before I sell the drawings. One caviat: these were what Stromberg referred to as a "thin-wall pressure casting". Sand casting will NOT work and retain original dimensions. The UU-2 and UUR-2 would be somewhat more of a viable project than the EE-3, as the UU-2 and UUR-2 have removable venturii, rather than the cast venturii of the EE-3. Funny someone mentioned the military White truck UUR-2. Barnett & Small used to sell that junk to unsuspecting buyers who did not know that there was no pump or power circuit in the carburetor. Cost of machining the bowl for the pump and power circuits exceeded by about twice what Barnett & Small sold the new old stock carburetor. We had a couple which we parted out for the floats, shafts, etc., and recycled the bodies as scrap brass. EDIT: a year or so ago, we sold a kit for either a U4 or UX4, don't remember. Customer called, and told me needle and seat, and body gasket in the kit was wrong. Since that kit is virtually never sold, I still had new old stock packaged Stromberg needles and seats, and made the gasket using the original Stromberg drawing. Long story short, he sent me the castings. They were an older sand cast imitation! I custom made him a needle and seat to duplicate what was used (have no idea what), and custom made a gasket (scanner and one to one printer is great for cutting custom gaskets). Same issue with the UU-2, UUR-2 and EE-3. Sand casting will not retain original dimensions. Jon