carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. The nut on the bottom of the air valve is the low speed adjustment - up is lean, down is rich. The nut at the top of the air valve is the high speed adjustment. The suggested adjustment (assuming the correct air valve needle) is that the nut should be 3/32 inch above the lever. Jon.
  2. Terry - when Carter was still manufacturing AFB carbs, their recommendations: Buick 401 stock 4-barrel engine - ORIGINAL AFB Buick 401 modified with headers and larger cam - 625 CFM AFB Carter never recommended an AVS for the Buick. As for bad things about the AVS (opinion) very worst 4-barrel that Carter ever made (including the first production WCFB's)! Chevrolet tried it for 1 year, and then discontinued it. Chrysler used it from 1968 to 1971 in order to pass smog emissions, and discontinued it when the TQ came out. Carter (at least on paper) offered an aftermarket AVS (left-overs) for various Chrysler products in 1972, but as a carburetion specialist that really likes Carter, and an ex-Carter warehouse distributor, I have NEVER seen one! As Matt stated a couple of posts above: all 4-barrels are not created equal. Jon.
  3. Here is a link to a picture of the correct idle tube. There is NO coupling at the top. The tube is sweated to the threaded plug at the bottom. Note the overall length of the idle tube assembly is approximately 3 1/2 inches. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/D-209_idle_tube.jpg The free end (upper) cuts its own seal when installed, as it is forced into a tapered passage. The reuse of a used tube can be done successfully ONLY if the free end of the tube is expanded. Jon.
  4. You need to have the tag number of the carburetor to get the correct rod. Carter made dozens of different ones. Without the tag number, you basically are at the mercy of your local machine shop to fabricate a new one from your broken original. The rod is probably available, but not sold separately. Jon.
  5. Just as a suggestion: If you are set on using one of the clones, rather than an original Buick 4-barrel, try having a friend time you with a stop watch on 3 0-60 runs on your current two-barrel and compute the average time. Then, once you have installed the clone of your choice, run the 0-60 times again and compare the average to your two-barrel runs. You may be surprised. Jon.
  6. Ed - I have no doubt as to the veracity of your last post, however (opinion) the big drawback to the factory dual quad set-up (for other than a trailered racecar) was: (A) the progressive linkage, and (B) the size of the carbs. Many years ago, a good friend brought me a professionally restored dual quad on a Skylark. It wasn't very quick, although once it got going it ran fairly well. I asked him what was the driving application. He told me he wanted something quick for his wife. I suggested to him that he run 3 timed quarter-miles, and compute an average. Then, we removed the 2 factory 625's AND the progressive linkage; and replaced them with 2 aftermarket 400's and SOLID linkage. He then ran 3 more quarter-miles and the average dropped 2 FULL SECONDS on the ET. By the way, his wife loved it Any multiple carburetion set-up must be set up for the car, and driving experience. There was a reason the factory used progressive linkage and 625's but street performance was certainly not the reason. I do not know a lot about Buick transmissions; but a little about Pontiac transmissions. The very best "bang for the buck" money one can spend on a 1964 GTO with automatic transmission, is to jerk the original transmission, and replace it with a turbo-350. Would be interested to hear how a transmission change might help the Buicks. Jon.
  7. To really ascertain value, one would need to know the identification numbers of the carburetors. Lots of different carburetors can be modified to RUN THE ENGINE. I would highly suggest listening to Ed (RivNut) concerning the transmission. Since you will have a non-original application, you will need to determine just how "correct" in appearance you wish to be. The Buick air cleaner can probably be sold for 4 times what one could use to purchase a superior performing repop Ford unit. Again, how correct do you wish to appear? How much you actually spend for the complete set-up depends on lots of variables. Jon.
  8. Carter carburetor bodies were painted black. Stromberg throttle bodies were Parkerized. Jon.
  9. Cannot be positive from pictures, but GUESSING that before it became a FRANKENCARB, that it might have been used on a Hudson. Jon.
  10. Glad you got it figured out, this is why I asked about the float type: Stromberg carb float adjustments Jon.
  11. Still researching my Stromberg documents. Thought this one might be of some use: Stromberg carburetor float adjustments Jon.
  12. Carburetor is a Marvel. This link to my website should help with identification: Marvel carburetor casting numbers Jon
  13. The Stromberg UR-2 used two different floats: (1) float arm on top of float, and (2) float arm on bottom of float. The settings are significantly different. Which do you have? Also, are you still running the original fuel delivery system, or has an electric pump been added? Jon.
  14. Has been a long time since I was into one of these; so memory is hazy as to the circuitry, but yes, there is a check valve. Jon.
  15. As Paul mentioned, the idle circuit on this carburetor is an "inverse idle". Turn it full in for the richest setting. The output of the accelerator pump should be maybe 5 percent (absolutely no more than this) of the squirt of a modern carburetor. The benefit of this "accelerator pump" is mostly in the mind of the driver. Very little fuel system benefit. The engine should normally be started with full choke. On this carburetor, the choke is a cone that slides over the standpipe. It should be checked. Full choke should have the cone flush against the lower edge of the venturi. When you rebuilt the carburetor, did you remove the idle jet/tube? IF SO, IT MUST EITHER BE REPLACED WITH NEW, OR THE FREE END OF THE TUBE EXPANDED! The tube is inserted into a tapered channel and cuts its own seal when tightened. FAILURE TO EITHER REPLACE OR EXPAND THE END WILL RESULT IN COMPLETE IDLE CIRCUIT FAILURE! When restored, a very pretty, but not very good carburetor. On a scale of 1 (awful) to 10 (wonderful), no better than a 5 if professionally restored (when I was teaching, anything below 60 percent was failing! ) Jon.
  16. The vast majority of tags are removed by the commercial carburetor "rebuilders" when a carburetor is "rebuilt". Several original carburetors may be "grouped" together and assigned one part number by the rebuilder. The original tag is removed. As an example, one of the better rebuilders used to group ALL 1969 and 1970 V-8 Pontiac Rochester Q-Jets INCLUDING THE RAM AIR VERSIONS together under one number. This included Pontiac 350, 400, 455, standard transmission, automatic transmission, HO engines, Ram Air engines, and air conditioned engines. Each unit would be calibrated to a calibration done by the rebuilder; and is virtually always too rich (better to burn too much fuel than to be sued for a lean engine failure). Each casting would be drilled (if necessary) and ALL vacuum ports installed (if necessary) for ALL of the engines covered. In general, for a specific engine original calibration (example Pontiac 350): (1) The carburetor for a vehicle with automatic and A.C. would have the richest calibration. (2) A carburetor for a vehicle with automatic would have the next richest calibration. (3) A carburetor for a vehicle with manual transmission would be calibrated leaner than (1) and (2) above. In the example about the 1969, 1970 Pontiac, the calibration for ALL would be for a 455 automatic with air conditioning. This practice started in the mid-1950's with the proliferation of everything; the FLAPS complained that they were having to stock too much inventory. The same thing is true with commercial carburetor rebuilding kits. In the case of the rebuilding kits, the expensive components are the fuel valve (a.k.a. needle and seat), and the accelerator pump. The commercial kit manufacturers basically do a spread-sheet for ALL carburetors using a specific fuel valve and accelerator pump, then add enough gaskets, pin springs, clips, etc. to service any of the carburetors on this spreadsheet. Additionally, fuel valves of varying orifice size, as long as the physical shape and thread fit, may be interchanged. And Carter and Rochester used different length accelerator pumps to control the accelerator pump shot volume, and these are often interchanged. If you should buy a commercial kit - check how many carburetors it "fits". The carburetor interchange isn't quite as large, but still will often astound you. EDIT: just thought I would mention, in my opinion, the second most common reason is the enthusiast/vendor. When did you last see a Rochester 2 barrel without a tag advertised on Ebay that was NOT a tripower carburetor?😠 When we were still doing swap meets, out of every 100 dual quad and tripower factory intakes, about THREE would have correct carburetors. Of course, none of them would have tags. Jon.
  17. There are no additional useful numbers without disassembly of the carburetor. Then one can determine the main jet and idle jets, and then start eliminating until one one carb is left. The only external number of value is the tag, which is missing in the picture. Jon.
  18. Guessing 1949~1953 Chevrolet 235 CID. With respect to 30DodgePanel, DO NOT STRAIGHTEN THE RETAINER IN THE PICTURE, IT IS NOT A TAG. The bend is necessary to provide tension for the dust seal. The tags on these carburetors were a rectangular tag (yours is missing) with two attaching holes. The tag would be just behind the choke cable bracket, with the two choke cable bracket retaining screws also retaining the tag. See the tag location on the first page of the factory service instructions: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_BB_updraft.pdf Jon.
  19. Here is a link to my website with the original Carter service literature. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_BB_updraft.pdf I think your adjustments may be off. Suggested INITIAL setting of the idle mixture screw (top) is 1 turn. Functional range 1/4 turn to 1 1/2 turns. Suggested INITIAL setting of the high speed adjustment is 2 1/2 turns. Functional range 1/2 to 5 turns. Jon.
  20. Dave - thanks for posting the Goldberg patent information. Somewhere on this forum, there is a thread about the Goldberg. Stakeside - your "Stromberg" is actually a Stewart, made by the Detroit Lubricator Company. It was produced in October 1928 for the 1929 model year. LOCK YOUR HOOD!!!!! Lots of folks would like to have this carburetor! Some might even think about a "five-finger discount" Jon.
  21. Thanks for replying. My records show that Cole used mostly Schebler up to 1913, and in 1913 started the switch to Stromberg, beginning with the 6 cylinder. I do not have the number following the GNo on your carb. If you would post, I would appreciate it. The models G and variants are different, but similar. The first letter (in this case G) represents the main type. The second letter (such as the "A" in GA) would represent a variation. On the early carbs, the two letters No would follow the last model letter, and is "Strombergese" for "number". There would be a number following the last letter which would represent the S.A.E. flange size (example - GNo3 - read G number 3). Since I don't have information on the variants of the G (I do have information on the G itself), I cannot tell you what the second letter means. However, if we take a slightly newer model, the model M; basic model was M which is a brass updraft carburetor. Variants were MB (sidedraft), MD (sidedraft originally aftermarket for Dodge Brothers, but released as aftermarket for some additional makes), and MP (original to certain models of Pierce-Arrow trucks). Jon.
  22. Continuing research into the surviving Stromberg documents. The following brass carburetor TYPES are listed in the parts indexes, but there is no record of their application. These would all be earlier than 1920. If anyone has one of these Stromberg carburetor types, and a factory parts book, owners manual, shop manual, etc. showing either application or parts break-down, I would like to acquire copies. Types are: E (I know these were used on early Stearns, but no documentation) F (believe to be experimental only, not certain) GA GB GC GE (believe to be experimental only, not certain) HA HC SK The Stromberg application database currently stands at 11,327 different carburetors. I still add 1 or 2 each month as I check additional documents. EDIT: I should have mentioned that all of these are UPDRAFT carburetors. The E was reused in the early 1930's as a downdraft type. Thanks in advance. Jon
  23. Get a job as a vendor for about a week, and you WOULD understand! Customer pulls out a 20 power glass, and states "the 'S' in Stromberg on this carburetor has a nick in the lower bend, I give you half what you are asking". At that point, the original price is null and void and the "customer" can keep looking! Or the Chevrolet and Stromberg "expert" that once harrassed me at Iola that my kits were to high because we had parts in the kits not used in the carburetor. "Why do you have a power valve in the kit for the Stromberg 97, everyone knows the Stromberg 97 has no power valve". At that point it does no good to show the guy the original Stromberg sevice literature showing the power valve; all one can do is just walk away. We even had one Cord customer at Hershey that was so obnoxious that my Mother came out of the motor home with her rolling pin! And yes, there CAN be middle ground, but the middle ground depends on the attitude of the bargainer. And about once a year, I get a call (I do telephone orders) from someone who just has to be from a magazine testing our customer service. Absolutely no one could possibly be so arrogant or ignorant. All one can do is be polite, and tell the caller we do not have what he/she wishes; and thank them for calling. Jon.