carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. From the link I posted earlier: Operation – integral hot air chokes The integral choke, like the divorced choke, closes due to a coiled bimetallic strip that rotates with temperature change. The coil is located inside the integral choke housing. Also inside the choke housing is a vacuum piston assembly. An internal vacuum source enters the choke housing behind the vacuum piston, and escapes by the choke piston to cause a negative pressure (vacuum) on the entire integral choke housing. As the housing is connected to the hot air choke tube, this negative pressure pulls air heated by the exhaust through the heat tube. This hot air causes the tension of the coil to relax, allowing the vacuum piston (this may be thought of as an internal choke pulloff) to open the choke plate. Adjustment – all except electric chokes and the 1937-38 Delco unit All chokes other than the above may be adjusted as follows: pick a time with the ambient temperature is between 65 and 70 degrees F. (68 degrees F. is the perfect temperature), and adjust the choke such that the choke plate on a cold engine just TOUCHES closed, with zero tension. The choke coil will then compensate for other temperatures If the above doesn't explain the operation to you - 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.
  2. The bimetallic coil CLOSES the choke butterfly. The choke butterfly is opened by the internal choke pull-off (a.k.a. vacuum piston). Different chokes opened/closed in the opposite direction. Perhaps some previous owner bought a cheap choke with the coil expanding wrong for your application. Generally, the coil may be removed and reinstalled in the opposite direction. Automatic chokes Jon.
  3. Rochester actually had three different accelerator pump cylinder diameters. Some of the Rochesters have a check ball at the bottom of the pump cylinder, others depend on fuel going through a vertical slot above the pump. I only remember one diameter of check ball. If your old pump was leather, soak it overnight in a light machine oil, such as "3 n 1" or neetsfoot oil or I use Singer sewing machine oil on new ones. Then take a very small screwdriver, and gently work your way around the leather cup, expanding the skirt diameter. Once every 3 or 4 years or so, we run across a Rochester where some previous enterprising owner had bored out the accelerator pump cylinder, increasing its volume, for a performance application. Jon.
  4. Wayne - I guess the answer would depend on what you plan to do with the car. If a numbers-and-components-matching show car that will never be started OR a museum car that will never be started; then clean up the Johnson. Johnson made brass carburetors earlier than years. Reo was one of their customers. Some 40 years ago, I started offering the new agricultural Zenith carburetors IN SOME INSTANCES as replacements for older cars/trucks. One day received a telephone call from a customer with a Reo, who planned only to drive (if he could) his Reo in parades. Sold him one of the Zeniths. Didn't hear from him for about 6 months or so. Received a package from UPS that weighed about 90 pounds. This was when one still had to pay quite a bit extra for anything over 70 pounds. Inside, there were some 15 brass Johnson carburetors, with a note "please give this junk a good home!". He called about a week later, telling me how well the Reo ran on the Zenith compared to what anyone at the Reo convention had ever seen a Reo run. Your decision, but personally, would suggest the Johnson only for looks. Jon.
  5. You need to post more information (or call). There are six different sizes of the Schebler model D. Each size has at least TWO DIFFERENT floats, some more. We make (if you are not in a hurry) rebuilding kits for most; with new floats, fuel valves, air valves, air valve springs, gaskets, etc. Jon.
  6. No, but it IS the holiday season, was trying to be nice, not naughty! Jon
  7. Oldsmobile used a Johnson type R updraft carburetor on the Viking. This is the same type that Packard tried for 4 months in 1929, and then stopped, and went back to Detroit Lubricator. I started playing with carburetors in 1960, and to this date have not seen a complete rebuildable Johnson type R. Jon.
  8. Try this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm The item old-tank is referring to as a choke-pull-off, I refer to as a vacuum piston. Jon.
  9. Mark - parts are pulled and ready to mail. Won't guarantee today (look at the Missouri weather map ) Quote "I hope this old Marvel works after all of this!" End quote When you are playing with a Marvel carburetor, always remember the mechanic's joke that is older than me (73): "You have a Marvel? It will be a MARVEL if it works!" Jon.
  10. Mark - either your zipcode or the invoice number when you ordered the kit is all I need. I can take it from there. I guessed correctly, you put the strainer gasket on the fuel seat. Will send the dashpot gasket and some extra strainer gaskets. These gaskets have been added to the bill-of-material for CS-274. To everyone else: I produce these kits from books that were written before I was born, and occasionally, they are either incorrect, or incomplete (as in this case). If anyone gets a kit from The Carburetor Shop with what appear to be either missing parts, or incorrect parts, please let me know FIRST. Sometimes a part (especially gaskets) is superseded by a part that is somewhat different, but if you think it is wrong, let me know. I may not always agree with you, and I may not have a sample; but I need to have feedback to make any changes. Also, since I make the kits here, I have a bill-of-material for each kit, and will be happy to discuss the contents of the kit BEFORE you place your order. Jon.
  11. Would like to make a comment here: The kit is one of mine, and the bill-of-materials come straight out of the Marvel Master Parts book. There are 4 gaskets listed: (1) flange (mounting) gasket (2) bowl cover gasket (3) insert gasket (4) strainer gasket After reading this thead, I went back and checked ALL (7) issues of the Marvel books that I have, and found the earliest printing also includes a dashpot gasket (omitted in the later printings). I will include this gasket in future kits. Not certain whether it is necessary or not (since it was omitted in later printings), but it is not a problem to include. As to the other gaskets folks seem to think should be in the kit, they are not listed in any of the Marvel specification sheets. However, not a problem including them, but I need a consensus of what fiber washers should be present. It is a toss-up as to which carburetor brand causes me the most embarrassment: Marvel, Schebler, Ensign, or Kingston. EDIT: guessing that the strainer gasket is one of the ones that was used on the fuel inlet log. Would be very easy to include extras of these. Post here what everyone thinks. Jon
  12. So far (there is always tomorrow ), absolutely the DUMBEST trick I have ever pulled in 59 years of working on my own cars was blocking the exhaust crossover on a Pontiac V-8! The ONLY way to get it to run in city traffic without stalling at EVERY stop sign/stop light was to install a carburetor with a manual choke! And mine has a 4-speed stick transmission. I cannot imagine how bad it would be with an automatic. After 30 minutes or so, everything is fine, and it will idle perfectly without choke. Would not consider doing this again on a street engine. But the above is my opinion, others may differ. Jon.
  13. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_lit-Stromberg.htm Jon
  14. The Detroit Lubricator (Stewart) model 25 is an excellent carburetor for its day. The Stromberg MD is an excellent carburetor for its day. The Detroit Lubricator has the advantage of being original. The Stromberg MD is somewhat more user-friendly from a rebuilding standpoint, and parts are somewhat easier to acquire for the MD than the 25. Cannot really go wrong with either. Jon.
  15. The filter you show is a Carter, and was available aftermarket at least post WWII, and possibly before. As far as I am aware, they were aftermarket only, but am not certain of that. That particular one is fairly common; BUT MAKE SURE YOU A BOWL FROM AN IDENTICAL FILTER!!!! Carter had several aftermarket filters. I gave completely up on trying to sell parts for these things, and wholesaled 1/2 a truck load to a gentleman in Florida because of that. Watch Ebay for a complete filter. The key to the correct one is the wire going from top to bottom as in your picture. The one shown by BuickBob is different from yours, and the bowl will not fit. Check out Ebay 323832671374 Jon.
  16. Been using glass bowl fuel filters for more than 50 years. This is the FIRST one I have ever seen where the gasket is at the BOTTOM. So, suggesting, before installing the gasket; make CERTAIN where it goes on the filter you have. Jon.
  17. As far as the ignition is concerned: with the proliferation of aftermarket stuff on the internet, there is always the possibility of acquiring wires, coil, and condenser that do not match each other in impedance. If not matched, firing voltages can be low, resulting in an incomplete burn of the available fuel, and a rich condition. Worse yet, are the electronic conversions that should ALWAYS (one of the words I virtually never use) be installed ONLY after upgrading to an alternator. A generator does not supply sufficiently stable voltage at low RPM for the electronics. Those of you that are old enough, and grew up in rural areas with REA's; do you remember watching TV and the refrigerator kicked on? And the TV picture shrunk about 2 inches at both top and bottom, and then went back to normal? Jon
  18. Both use Rochester mounting gasket 1170643, thus there is no incompatibility to the intake manifold. Without pulling prints (on microfilm) the major difference MIGHT be in the secondary. Packard carbs have no auxiliary air valve on the 1955, and have it on the 1956. Buick may be the same; I don't have any to look at, and too lazy to pull the prints. The 1956 Packard 4GC is superior to the 1955 because of the auxiliary air valve. Jon
  19. Many different Carter carburetors of the type RJH-08, one of which is the 1928 Plymouth (which is a smaller engine, so the engine would be down on power). This is also true of the DRT-08. These are types, just like a Rochester quadrajet is a type (more modern) of carburetor; NOT a positive identification. The 1931 Plymouth PA would have originally used a type DRT-08, tag number 209s. Good luck on finding a tagged 1931, as the tags were made from red cardboard. Carter quickly found out the cardboard tags were not overly durable, so in the mid-1930's Carter changed to a brass tag. One occasionally finds a 209s brass tagged carb with a service date (same carb, just made as a service unit after production). These do not grow on trees, and service parts, other than fuel valve and gaskets, can get rather pricey. Jon.
  20. Disconnecting the choke on the rear carburetor will violate the "Law of Unintended Consequences" WHY? When running with the original progressive linkage, the throttle on the rear carburetor is closed at start-up, forcing all A/F mixture to be supplied by the front carburetor. When running with solid linkage, the throttle on the rear carburetor is open at start-up, thereby causing a severe imbalance of the A/F mixture density to the cylinders fed by the rear carb, thus creating the condition experienced by Lawrence in the post above this one. Matt - how far out do you have the idle mixture control screws on both carbs? My GUESS would be somewhere around 1/2 turn would be about right. At this point in time, why not start the adjustment procedure over. Pick a day when the ambient (or the temperature in your garage) is in the window of 65~70 degrees F., disconnect the linkage connecting the two carbs, one by one adjust the chokes by first working the throttle on each carb to wide open and then release. Open the throttle approximately 1/2 way and HOLD. Now loosen the screws holding the retaining clamps, and rotate the choke cap gently in each direction, looking for the direction that allows the choke butterfly to fall open. Now, gently rotate the choke cap in the opposite direction until the choke butterfly just touches closed with zero tension. Once both chokes have been adjusted, reconnect the two carburetors. Start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle until the engine is totally at operating temperature. Turn one of the throttle positioner screws clockwise to give an idle of maybe 1000 RPM. Rotate each mixture control screw clockwise until lightly seated, then counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Which one is done in sequence is unimportant. Once all four have been adjusted to 1/2 turn, rotate the throttle positioner screw you used to set the fast idle counterclockwise SLOWLY, blipping the throttle each 1/8 turn to try to get your target idle RPM. Some further adjustment of the mixture control screws may be necessary, but shouldn't be much. Now, the next time you go to start the engine cold: remove the air cleaner, and verify both chokes should be wide open. If not, we have an adjustment issue somewhere. If they are, GENTLY push the throttle wide open and release (take about 4 seconds to push the throttle open). Verify both chokes should completely close. Now, with the transmission in neutral and one tire blocked, open the drivers door window, stand outside the car, and start the engine! (no foot on the footfeed). It should start, and immediately go to a fast idle. You may need to adjust the fast idle to your target RPM. The above procedure is assuming that you have previously synchronized the throttle operation of the two carburetors. If not, then that should be done as well. Jon.
  21. The choke spring closes the choke butterfly. Heat, with vacuum, opens the choke butterfly. Automatic chokes Rebuilding kits with screws are available from that grumpy old hillbilly in Missouri. Jon.
  22. Bloo - as you suggested, the purpose of the unloader circuit was to clear a flooded cold engine, BUT one with the choke working. In Matt's case, he is not activating the chokes by not using the footfeed. If he activated the chokes by pressing the footfeed, then the issue could possibly be worse. Much depends on if the carbs ARE too rich, or if the ignition system is weak. Jon.
  23. Really easy to say the Tillotson JR is the issue , but in this case it probably is not. A backfire through the carburetor occurs when: (A) a cylinder is firing AND (B) an intake valve is open A compression test might turn up a lazy or burned valve. The ignition timing might be off. Rare, but on well-worn engines with a timing chain, possible that the chain slipped a link. Jon.
  24. Carburetors get blamed for a lot, some of which they actually cause. Yes, a carburetor flowing too much fuel CAN cause the engine to run rich (about a 4 percent probability). A defective ignition system can also cause an engine to run rich (about a 93 percent probability). Underinflated tires, dragging brakes, your golf clubs in the trunk among other items can cause poor fuel economy. Jon.
  25. Before throwing rocks at the carburetor, insert a fuel pressure gauge right at the carburetor. The $39.95 dial type inline pressure regulators available at the FLAPS regulate pressure by regulating volume. If your regulator is rated say 10 gal/hour and you have adjusted the dial to 1: (A) At a flow rate of 10 gallons per hour (wide open throttle) the output pressure is probably about 1 psi. (B) At a flow rate much less than 10 gallons per hour (idle) the output pressure probably is the same as the inlet pressure. Test it with a pressure gauge. Then you know. If you are going to use an electric pump, go to a "speed" or "race" shop, and buy an expensive regulator with an internal bypass. Holley, probably others as well, make a good one. Expect to spend at least a hundred dollars or more. But it will correctly regulate pressure at all flow rates. As far as the idle returning to a specific RPM: when you rebuilt the carburetor, did you remove the throttle shaft and check for out of round? That carb is 90 years old, who knows how many miles are on it. The design clearance from throttle shaft to throttle body was 0.004~0.006 inches. An additional 0.003 inches wear (thus a total of 0.009 inches) is acceptable. EDIT: as far as flipping the intake: acquire an intake-to-head gasket. Lay this gasket on a piece of cardboard larger than the gasket, and draw the complete INSIDE (the mounting holes and air/fuel holes) pattern on the cardboard. Flip the gasket. If ALL of the holes line up, then maybe you can flip the intake. Jon.