carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. You are seeing the entire pump, the "sealing surface" is the largest diameter brass cylinder. THERE IS NO LEATHER SKIRT! The damaged piece on the bottom is simply a brass washer holding the pump together. (1) remove the washer (2) glass bead the pump (3) fabricate a new brass washer (4) peen the end of the shaft over the new washer These units were sold through such sites as Whitney, Warshawsky, and Western Auto to customers too frugal to purchase a gasket set for the original carburetor. According to the Tillotson books, even Tillotson did not offer a rebuilding kit. Tillotson did offer individual parts, but they had to be special ordered. The pump is Tillotson 0-3900. As far as the kits containing pumps, we started hand-cutting kits some 30 years ago. To date, you are the first requesting a pump. The cost of fabricating a new pump would exceed the value of the carburetor. These carbs do have one redeeming feature: the top casting is cast iron. So one can place the top casting in a machine, and cut the flange from the rest of the casting just above the throttle shaft. One can then weld two of these together to fabricate a carburetor adapter. Jon.
  2. Would be useful to know which; HOWEVER: before playing with the carburetor, would highly suggest you play with the ignition. Jon.
  3. Possibly the very best Schebler ever made (opinion). They work exceptionally well on engines with very little RPM range. Jon.
  4. The early production 1928 Pontiac came with Carter DRJH-0 identification number 101s. Pontiac unfortunately switched to Marvel in mid-1928. The Carter DRJH-0 was equipped with an external accelerator pump with a zinc alloy (pot metal housing). In 61 years of working on carburetors, I have yet to see one of these that was unbroken and usable. Generally, on that model, they are missing, and the cast iron housing plugged. The amount of fuel originally delivered by that accelerator pump was maybe 5 percent of the fuel delivered by a more modern carburetor. The value of the accelerator pump in 1928 was largely in the mind of the driver; it had little to do with car performance. Low speed issues are likely to be ignition related (timing/advance), or, if carburetor related, an idle tube that is not sealing. The 1926/27 Pontiac used a Carter DR-0 which had no accelerator pump. The type, DR-0 or DRJH-0 is cast on the side of the carburetor throat. Jon.
  5. To add to Ed's post: When Carter was still making AFB carbs, and got into the aftermarket, they basically made aftermarket carbs for small block Chevvies ONLY! WHY? There were production performance single 4 AFB's for the 409 There were production performance dual 4's for the 409 There were production performance single 4's from 625~939 CFM for Pontiac There were production performance dual 4's for Pontiac And Buick (factory duals), and Ford (Shelby duals), and Chrysler products (wedges and hemis). There were no AFB's for Oldsmobile, but the calibration is similar to that of Pontiac. By this time, there was little demand for performance carburetors for Cadillac. If one looks at the calibrations for the various performance carbs CALIBRATED BY CARTER, one finds 2 major (and quite a few minor) differences in calibrations for "torquers" and "screamers" when it comes to engines. The above is simply to whet the appetite of the reader to do their own research. Look particularly at the attack angle and mass of the weights of the auxiliary air valves; as well as the rod diameter differentials (high vac to low vac) and the air bleeds and idle circuits. When Federal Mogul bought Carter from ACF, FM continued the application for the aftermarket carbs; although they did redesign them to sell much cheaper (wonder how)? :mad: Federal Mogul had a lot of difficulty selling the redesigned AFB's to Carter distributors (we were one at the time - about 1986). They needed to sell them to someone. I won't get into transmission linkage, because not my field; but a totally wore-out 1963 Pontiac carb (if one cannot find a totally wore-out Buick carb) can be refurbished for less than trying to recalibrate the aftermarket carbs built for "screamer" engines; even when starting with genuine (before FM) Carter aftermarket carbs, let alone the clones, and will function quite well on Buicks. Jon.
  6. The 1931 carbs were made for Cadillac by Johnson. If I ever get to retire, I am going to try to find out WHY Cadillac used Johnson carburetors; there must be a brother-in-law or something somewhere! As to what else may be used: In the realm of updraft carburetors, some opt to replace the 1931 Johnsons with the 1932 (and later) Detroit Lubricators. Very expensive, but they fit, and they are calibrated for the Cadillac engine. Because of the issues involved with the Johnsons, and the cost of the Detroits; maybe 30 or so years ago, we had a replacement set available. We started with a universal marine Zenith (we had a bunch of these from a buy-out) with an adjustable main metering jet. We then used the throttle arms on the original Detroits as patterns, and cast throttle arms to fit the Cadillac engine to replace the original arms on the Zenith. The throttle bodies on the Zenith also required modification. But once done, the carbs just plain WORKED. We ran out of Zeniths of this type, with no additional ones available, so sent the pattern arms to another company. The last conversion we helped do may sound like heresy to Cadillac owners. We had a customer with a V-12 and NO carbs, and a previously heavily modified vehicle. Would have cost a fortune to restore the car to original. He wanted to drive it WITHOUT doing the restoration. We suggested turning the intakes upside down, and using a pair of Carter W-1 carbs from the late 1940's. It worked, and worked well. I realize the focus of these forums is keeping things as original as possible; and I mostly agree with that focus. But when it comes to the Johnsons used by Cadillac, I firmly believe there are cars to show (NEVER started), and cars to drive. The Johnsons are fine on the cars never started; but replacing them with something more reliable just might mean we save another antique car! (MOO). Like Ed, I could make them work (at least for a few minutes), but would never ever consider telling a customer they were reliable. Jon
  7. When trying to adapt a non-original carburetor, one needs to make a "picture" of the area beneath the intake manifold, with dimensions to the nearest obstruction in all directions. The "picture" must be indexed on the center of the hole in the intake (easier to simply measure the center to center on the mounting holes, then measure from one or the other and add or subtract the radius). One can then do the same for the carburetor. If the carburetor picture fits inside the picture under the manifold, the carburetor will fit. Jon.
  8. The hole is a vacuum source for a sandwich governor, if used on a truck with a sandwich governor. In which case, a restrictor with an orifice based on the application, was inserted into this hole. If the carburetor is used on any vehicle without a sandwich governor, the restrictor is unnecessary. Jon
  9. Try Cliff Ruggles at Cliff's High Performance, in Mt. Vernon, Ohio. Tell him I said hi. Jon.
  10. Electric fuel pumps and older vehicles Jon.
  11. Tom - I rarely disagree with your posts, but respectfully believe one should look carefully at the issues before blocking the cross-overs on a street car. When I built my ultra-high performance (really, too high performance for the street) Pontiac years ago, I listened to the internet and blocked the cross-overs. Even with a MANUAL transmission, and a carburetor with an automatic choke, this car was a challenge in town for about 30 minutes after start-up. I really got to practice my heel-and-toe, which I hadn't needed in 40 years since I sold the TR-3. I finally got tired of the stalling at every stop sign/stop light if the heel-and-toe wasn't perfect, threw in the towel, and installed a carb with a MANUAL choke. By working the choke until the engine was completely at operating temperature, problem solved (there is generally a work-around, if one tries). After complete warm-up, the engine idles nicely about 850~900 RPM, and can be driven without the use of the choke. Have had lots of customers with idle issues who had blocked the cross-overs. As far as I am concerned, this is a race-only modification. Of course, all of us have our own level of tolerance on driveability. Respectfully. Jon.
  12. The spacer should help with hot starts, although if one changes the way one approaches hot starts, there is generally no problem without a spacer. Different method of starting a hot engine The spacer will probably not prevent fuel evaporation from the bowls, although it may take a few more hours for the fuel to evaporate totally. Spacers are sometimes added to add power at wide open throttle, although this power addition also depends on the type of manifold and the carburetor being used. The benefit is derived because the spacer effectively adds volume to the manifold plenum (again, depending on the manifold design). Generally no more than 1~2 percent gain is acquired. But for a racecar, every tenth of a horsepower is important. For other than high performance vehicles, the power gained at W.O.T. is often not worth the reduction in drivability at idle/low RPM.. Each individual has a different level of tolerance for drivability issues. Jon.
  13. Ray - I like your post, but JRA has a Studebaker, which probably has, or had, a Penberthy. Jon.
  14. Ssssssssssssssssssssssssnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaakkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee oil! Think up a good story (with no guarantee) and put it on Ebay. There are lots of "true believers" out there! Jon,
  15. WHICH new Zenith carburetor? Identification number??? Jon.
  16. Then and Now Automotive manufactures their kits with ethanol-friendly diaphragms. I believe they are an advertiser on these forums. The Carter pump may be an issue. Carter had more than 50 percent of the carburetor business, but not a lot of the fuel pump business. Kit might be difficult. Jon.
  17. In a single word: YES Jon
  18. When starting hot, change your approach: Hot starting issues Jon.
  19. Over the last 50 years, I have solved MANY "carburetor" problems, as well as hard starting ignition problems, on both 6v and 12v systems. The solution: first scrape off the 92 coats of engine paint that the "restorer" placed on one of the head bolts; then connect a heavy-duty jumper cable from the ground terminal of the battery to this particular head bolt. Paint is not a particularly efficient carrier of electric current. Jon.
  20. As I no longer am working on carburetors, I am going through my personal collection of carburetor literature, and placing it for sale on my website. Currently, I am working with Carter literature. I have pulled my collection of Carter ->car make / car make->Carter interchanges, as well as virtually a complete collection of the Carter Performance Manuals. The interchanges will allow one to look up a Carter carburetor or part and then find the corresponding car make (i.e. Buick) part number for the carburetor or part. Conversely, one could look up a carburetor or part in the car make (i.e. Chevrolet) parts manual, and then find the corresponding Carter carburetor or part number. These interchanges are quite scarce, some I have only found the one in 50 years of collecting carburetor literature. These may be found at: Carter carburetor and parts interchanges The Carter Performance catalogs list Competition and high performance street carburetors, as well as excellent sections on original calibrations for Carter carburetors (jets, metering rods, etc.). Some of the manuals also include service procedures for the competition carburetors. These instructions were never published in the standard Carter loose-leaf Master catalogs. These may be found at: Carter Performance Catalogs ALL items are priced on the website, with a minimal description. To discuss exact contents of any, please call during normal telephone hours (see signature). Other items from my personal collection will be listed as time permits. Unless specific requests for other brands are requested, I will continue to work with the Carter literature. Jon
  21. Of all the carburetors Carter ever produced, from about 1909 through the end in 1985, the BBR series is the ONLY series for Carter to ever publish a trouble-shooting guide: Carter BBR issues A gentleman much wiser than me once said: "baloney is great, if you have never tasted steak"! There is a long story that I have posted before here (hopefully, search will find it) about Plymouth using the much better W-1 (Chevrolet) carburetor in for a limited time in 1947. If not, and you wish to hear it, give me a call during normal telephone hours, I don't type as well as I once did. Jon.
  22. The Chysler 6 is 242 CID. Stromberg made a carburetor SPECIFICALLY for the Chrysler application. The Strombergs listed in your other thread are made for 218 CID engines. Better than the Ball & Ball, but still far from optimal. Jon.
  23. A couple of articles you may find interesting: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Buick_1937_1938_carburetors.htm http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Heatstovefabrication.htm Jon.