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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Somewhere, I still have the three I bought in college: a 10", a 6", and a circular. Jon.
  2. As Matt suggested, two single carbs from the smaller Buick engine are the way to go for duals on the large size. For duals on the small engine, one needs to think outside the Buick box. Carter made the WCD carbs in several sizes. Carter made WCD's for the 1960's AMC 6 cylinder 199 CID engines. Two of these work well on the small Buick engine. The throttle arms are different, but should one be a sticker for details; a couple of junk Buick WCD's from a swap meet/salvage yard may act as donors for Buick throttle arms. Now as to tuning: I sometimes forget not all enthusiasts have my inventory of Carter parts readily available on their shelves. My apologies for forgetting. But if one looks at the metering of the Stromberg and Carter carburetors: Stromberg: Adjustable idle circuit (also replaceable idle jets) Main metering jets (replaceable) for cruise Power valve (replaceable) for WOT Power valve actuating valve with spring (replaceable, IF you have a spring winding kit) (allows some adjustment as to the deployment of the power valve) Carter: Adjustable idle circuit (also replaceable idle jets) Main metering jets (replaceable) for cruise Metering rod (high vacuum step) (used to tweak the main jet size for cruise) Metering rod (mid-range vacuum step) this is a metering step between cruise and WOT Metering rod (low vacuum step) for WOT Vacuum piston spring (controls the timing of the metering rod step dynamically in use. Springs from later Carter AFB's may be used for different tensions. So while DOING the tuning may be more complex with the Carters, one can acquire a much more uniform A/F ratio over the various levels of vacuum. While WOT power and economy are probably virtually identical (Stromberg and Carter); cruise, and mid-range can be crisper in performance, and offer better fuel economy due to the more uniform A/F ratios. EDIT: I would also echo Matt's comments about NOT selling your existing 490s. In fact, were it me, I probably would keep the original setup intact, and look for an additional intake manifold to use with the synchronous carbs and linkage. Jon
  3. What you are experiencing is exactly why we recommend two matching carbs from SINGLE carb engines, rather than two primary carbs from dual carb engines. There are two reasons: (1) Availability (which you are currently experiencing) (2) Cost (related to availability) The primary carb of ANY progressive multiple carb set-up is always the most difficult to find, and the most expensive. WHY? Because when the cars were current, and wrecked; a salvage yard could (and did) sell the primary carb separately as it was a complete carb, but the secondary carb would languish with the intake manifold. Not quite old enough to have done this on the Compound Carburetion Buicks, but purchased dozens (or more) multiple carb set-ups from 1950's and 1960's cars directly from salvage yards, most missing the primary carb. This was true of dual quads missing the rear, and tripowers missing the center. If buying only the two carbs on a dual setup, the primary carb is about 80 percent of the price, leaving about 20 percent for the secondary carb. And while I don't have a 490s to sell at this time; if I did, I would either not sell it separately, or would price it at the same price as the total for the two. This same philosophy holds true for 1950's and 1960's tripowers, with genuine center carbs so scarce as to be often worth more than the value of the two ends. For this reason, we have found substitutes for the centers on all of the Pontiac tripowers (most in demand). I would suggest looking for a matching pair of single carbs from 1946~1949. Much easier, and much less expensive. Your choice between the Carters and the Strombergs. My choice, even though I am the current caretaker for Stromberg, would be Carters, because of the metering rod technology. Jon.
  4. Ed - are those the ones sold by JC Whitney? Had a buddy that bought all of that stuff, and ran it for awhile, and then took it off. The reason??? He had to stop at every other gas station to take the excess gas out of his tank; otherwise the tank would overflow! Jon
  5. The plate is an adapter to convert a spread-bore four barrel to a square-bore manifold, or vice versa, for the folks that care about the bottom line, but nothing about fluid dynamics. As to the function of the copper coil, no guess. Jon.
  6. Ed, actually, there WAS a problem. Unfortunately, the the Grose-Jet wasn't the solution. Before we started machining new kits with new fuel valves in the 1970's, there was a small demand for carburetor parts for lots of different carburetors. The new old stock had pretty well dried up, and the demand was too small for the commercial kit manufacturers to become involved. D & G did address this problem (the valves with all the different adapters), and I would assume more than just you and Real Steel had success; but lots of folks didn't. And to be fair; one thing about being in the repair business, one is going to hear about the failures, not the successes. Jon.
  7. Ed - I have none left, all of the ones I ever got went into scrap brass. We had the following issues reported to us: (1) sticking valves. The two balls would stick! The valves which were placed in the bottom of the fuel bowl would stick closed, allowing zero fuel to enter the bowl. The valves which were placed in the air horn (such as a Pontiac GTO tripower) would stick open, allowing all three carburetors to leak gasoline all over the intake manifold!!! (2) insufficient capacity. Had a number of customers that had placed them in Cadillacs and Packards that were happy with their performance in parades (until they stuck), but were unable to acquire cruise speed, as the valve would not flow sufficient fuel. Both of the above are "hearsay" to me (I would never get in a car that had one), but we sold LOTS of kits to the folks calling us reporting these issues. Many called back after installing a different fuel valve simply delighted that their vehicle now ran as it should. My personal experience with them had to do with the restoration of carburetors. Yes, before our rebuilding kit business ballooned, we restored a lot of carburetors. Some of the customers experiencing issues with the ball/ball valves sent the carb to us for restoration. To save money, the valves for carburetors with unusual original valves (such as Packard Detroit Lubricator) were two piece; the valve itself, and an adapter to make it fit the carburetor. The valve had a hex head, but the ADAPTERS WERE MACHINED FROM ROUND BRASS! Do I need to go on? One would place a socket on the hex, and the valve would unscrew from the adapter, leaving the adapter in the carburetor casting with no easy method of removal. First I tried using a screw with the same threads as the valve and a lock nut to lock it to the adapter. This worked for awhile. Then one came in with insufficient clearance to use this method. Finally put a drop of red Loctite on the thread of the screw, screwed it into the adapter, and let it set up overnight. The following day, I could unscrew the adapter. To be quite honest, Ed, you and the gentleman posting as Real Steel are the ONLY ones I have ever known who actually LIKED these valves. Hopefully, neither of you will ever experience any of the above issues. Jon.
  8. John - the Essex is more likely to be a 1929 or 1930. These used the Marvels with the early pot metal that cracked completely into dust! I have not found a solution for these cars, other than recasting the intake manifold/heat riser for a different carburetor. If anyone has come up with a different solution, I would like to know; then I could pass the solution on to others. Jon.
  9. The Holley8055C is significantly SMALLER than the 7041304. Might be a good choice for a basically stock 350 Chevy. If you got a Holley guru to totally recalibrate it for you, probably the only difference you would see just cruising would be a significant loss of fuel economy. Wide open throttle this Holley would lose a significant amount of power. Best of both worlds. You can go slower, and do it by using more fuel 😜 Not many folks buy the Holley spread-bore carbs for performance. Jon.
  10. They were really a great selling point for us, as we wouldn't use them. But we had dozens of customers who did, unsuccessfully, that subsequently bought a kit from us, with a real fuel valve, and were very happy. If you like the valve, I am happy for you; but if I am asked, I will strongly recommend AGAINST even thinking about considering their use. Jon
  11. Sorry to hear that, I thought they were gone forever! That means more questions from folks that run out of fuel running down the highway! A few years ago, we bought a carburetor shop that used these, and went out of business (don't know why). There were about 700 new gross-jets that we recycled in scrap brass. Pretty good pile of brass! Jon.
  12. I would never have thought of it If you have a boat load of Holley tuning parts, and own stock in Shell Oil, it is certainly an option. Jon.
  13. On your carburetor question: You should be able to fill the carburetor bowl through the bowl vent. This will allow the engine to fire if the electrics are OK. There will be sufficient fuel in the bowl to allow the engine to run 5~10 seconds. You will NOT be able to gravity feed the carburetor sufficiently to allow even a constant idle. Jon.
  14. Nice looking core; but "NOS" with gasket residue on the throttle body??? Jon.
  15. 7020240 does not exist. 7026240 was the 425 Federal carburetor in 1966. 7026240 was replaced by 7041304. Good luck on finding one! You have a better chance of winning an argument with the IRS. EDIT: (professional opinion). The BEST carburetor you can buy for a 1966 425 that is basically stock would be the 7041304. Second best would be the 7026240 after it was professionally rebuilt, and the early Rochester issues fixed (yes, there are issues, and yes, there are fixes). Other carbs could be used (various quadrajets, Carter TQ's, etc.) with the spread-bore manifold, but all would need some fabrication for linkage, fuel lines, possibly air cleaner adaptation, etc. Third choice would be an original Carter Riv AFB (not a new clone), with the square-bore intake. The 7026240 CAN be made into an excellent carburetor, assuming the rebuilder does all of the machine work to plug in the "fixes". As to new carbs, even if you found a new 7041304, it would require rebuilding, unless you have unlimited access to non-ethanol fuel. Jon.
  16. Using the large orifice with a pressure pump can cause flooding. Using the small orifice with gravity feed can cause fuel starvation. Jon.
  17. Woodie - the robots NEVER give up! Since we only answer the telephone on certain days, have had the machine for probably 15 years. The robots still call! The ONLY way to discourage them is by firing squad to the humans controlling them! Jon
  18. We are increasingly being bombarded by telephone calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. The other day, just to get some statistics, I answered all within a day. There were 18 of which 17 were "garbage" calls, either robocalls, or a person wanted to scam us. The one that was legitimate was an auto parts house that came up unknown. I asked the individual about it, and he said he would refer the question to their tech department. We are now ignoring calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. If you should call us during normal telephone hours, and get our recording, would suggest you check how your telephone is configured. Jon.
  19. Obviously, I was wrong about the carb. Glad you found the issue. Jon
  20. For those who believe the old steel needles are NOT effected by ethanol: Steel needle with exposure to ethanol Jon
  21. The easy way is to determine the size (you have this), the type of engine (2 stroke, 4 stroke), and the effective maximum RPM (you have this). Then find a similar engine using the target carburetor, and look up the venturi size for that carburetor. Jon.
  22. The Stromberg model M is one of the better updraft carburetors, and one of the top level of brass updraft carburetors (the O-3 would be better, but little else would be). Just necessary to get one with the proper internal venturi for your engine. Jon.
  23. WOW - thanks for the words of encouragement! Number 1 - Chevrolet did not use a BB-1 in 1932 on a truck! Chevrolet first used the BB-1 on a truck in 1939, but only the C.O.E. versions, not other trucks. In seemingly a different lifetime ( I was about 14) Dad was a sharecropper, and I helped him farm. The tractor had an updraft carburetor. Dad told me "Never turn off the engine using an updraft carburetor with the key. Turn off the gas first, and allow the engine to die, then turn off the key". One day, was in a hurry, turned off the key, and went into the house. Something came up, and got back to the tractor about an hour later to find an empty gas tank and 22 gallons of gas under the tractor! Wise Dad! He said absolutely nothing! He knew I had learned my lesson, and to this day ALWAYS turn off the gas first with an updraft carburetor. If the idle screw has no effect on idling the engine, something is wrong. As to the fuel valve, I have been told that the Daytona valve is a reincarnation of the old Parker Brothers valve. I do not know that this is true, however, if it is true: Fuel valve types We used the Parker Brothers valve on downdraft, updraft, and sidedraft carburetors; many of the updraft and sidedraft with gravity feed without issue. Jon.
  24. I hadn't previously commented on this thread, as the OP stated he had a pertronix conversion, and generally pretty much a waste of time trying to fix a "carburetor problem" when there is an electronic whizback of questionable quality firing the gas. Since another poster has suggested upgrading the ignition to the original points, I will throw in my two cents as well. The 4GC carburetor has several circuits. If the engine runs well at 45 MPH it is running on the main metering circuit(as opposed to idle). Other than load (a hill, or rapid acceleration), the main circuit is good up to almost maximum RPM. In other words, if the carb is OK at 45 MPH, it should also be good at 100 MPG (but accelerating slowly to get there). The car should run 100 MPH on the main circuit without the use of the power circuit. I don't know what is the problem, but don't think it is the carburetor. Possibles: (1) ignition (2) fuel delivery system (fuel pump) (3) ignition (4) fuel delivery system (small leak in fuel line, not enough to see, but sucking air and restricting fuel flow) (5) ignition (6) fuel delivery system (non-functioning fuel tank vent) (7) ignition (8) fuel filter (9) did I mention ignition? Suggestion: if upgrading to a real ignition doesn't solve the issue, try borrowing a marine fuel tank for an outboard, and an electric fuel pump and connect directly to the carburetor. This would bypass any fuel delivery system issue. Once you have determined the culprit is either the ignition or the fuel delivery system, then easier to fix. Jon.
  25. The reason for the post above is to point out that often enthusiasts read that a certain vehicle used a certain type or style of carburetor. The type or style says nothing about the actual calibration inside. If a Stromberg M-3 was original to the engine, are you positive that the Stromberg M-3 you rebuilt is the correct Stromberg M-3 for the engine? Or, if you are putting the Stromberg M-3 on a different than original application, you need to determine the correct calibration. Then, if the Stromberg M-3 has the incorrect calibration, you need to redo the calibration. This generally means fabrication of a new main venturi. Jon.