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Everything posted by carbking

  1. You folks are trying to make this simple answer too difficult. Today "original" means "how can I get the most money out of this item"? Doesn't matter if the item is a car, a house, or a tube of toothpaste. Forgive me for being a cynic. Reminds me of an incident from almost a different lifetime when I was much younger and impressionable (about 1970). Was at Hershey listening to a discussion on this topic by two older gray-bearded gentlemen. The final word was: "Well, as far as I am concerned, once the tires have to have air, its no longer original"! True story. Jon.
  2. A couple more items of which I was previously unaware, from the Stromberg carburetor files: (1) Packard was testing a two two-barrel set-up in the late 1930's (2) Dodge was testing a supercharged engine in the mid 1950's. Obviously, neither made production. Jon.
  3. Going through the Stromberg documentation. On 16 August 1949, Stromberg sent a type 4A (4-barrel) to Buick for testing for the 1950 Buick series 70. We know that Buick did not adopt the 4-barrel until 1952, but thought Buick enthusiasts might like to know of the early testing. Jon.
  4. Yes, the Rochester type B carbs are dirt-cheap, as many of the "stove-bolt" folks are replacing them with Carters Jon.
  5. Carbking cannot help. I have yet to find a Schebler book which covers the model L in detail. Same is true for the models D and R. There are very few references by carburetor number in some of the early Schebler books, but no parts break-down. I have no listing for the LX-334. This should be read as model L, assembly number 334. The Schebler model L was used at least as early as 1908, and at least as late as 1914. I have shamelessly begged on these forums for those with early original equipment master parts books to send information on these three models of Schebler, but so far, no love. Hope you enjoy adjusting the "clocks" on the model L. Jon.
  6. WELCOME! According to the Carter literature: The Carter 629s was an aftermarket replacement carb for 1941 Chrysler and DeSoto. In 1950, Chrysler used two different carburetors on the 251 CID 6. Early production was an E7L3, late production was E7L4. The E7L4 supersedes the E7L3. There is no record in the Carter documentation giving a serial number, or other, break as to when the change occurred. The difference is extremely minor; either could be used. Jon.
  7. I don't think the carb is Chevrolet. The 1923~1927 Chevrolet 4 carbs were a cross-flange, but the throttle arm would be on the opposite side of the throttle shaft. With the two large knurled adjustment screws, there is not room for the arm. I don't see a choke arm in the pictures. Similar carbs were used on Fordson tractors (not exact). No idea where to start it. Jon.
  8. Cannot conclusively read the letters on the carburetor. It APPEARS to be CRAJX0, which would be a 1927 Chevrolet. If you could post the letters, I can narrow down the carburetor. RAJH0 would be some form of Chrysler EDIT: It cannot be a CRAJX0 as that carb has a cross-flange. Jon.
  9. Maybe 40 years ago, we bought a bunch of Marvel carburetors to disassemble for patterns to be able to manufacture repair kits. Of course, there were many duplicates, and I am now listing these on Ebay. Several are listed already, and still have more to list. Just search for Ebay seller carbking EDIT: the telephone rang while I was posting. I have another handful here in the shop to list. Further listings will depend on sales. It is a pain to take pictures, write descriptions, etc. and then put the item back on the shelf. I have an additional 235 Marvel carburetors, including some VERY difficult ones. However, all of the ones for Indian have been sold. Jon.
  10. Tom - thank you, looking forward to the article. Should you have additional questions about American carburetor companies, I will try to help. Jon.
  11. Ed - Talbot used both EX-22's and EX-32's made in France. Don't know if yours have this feature, but some of these have a fuel inlet featuring S.A.E. male thread into the carburetor bowl, and metric female thread to accept the metric banjo bolt Would delight in having a copy of that early catalog. Jon.
  12. The "hands across the sea" ownership, sales, etc. is quite difficult to track down 75 or so years after the fact. In the original Stromberg (USA) documentation, there are a number of carburetors sold to "Bendix - London Branch", and "Bendix - Paris Branch". Many of these were designated to go to Zenith France or Zenith UK. Without digging into the files (still not completely digitized, hopefully by the end of 2019), some makes that come to mind are Rolls Royce, Daimler, Bugatti, Humber, Horch, Armstrong-Siddeley, Nerve-Stella, Adler, and Hotchkiss. Additionally, Delage, Delahaye, and Talbot used hybrid carbs that were basically Stromberg USA with some modifications (like the leaky banjo fuel fittings rather than normal fittings). Thanks to some of our European friends, we have been able to determine that these basically used Stromberg USA calibration parts and gaskets, and as such, we have been able to offer rebuilding kits. The records are not clear if Stromberg produced the carbs, or produced prototypes and the tooling, and the carbs were actually produced in Europe. My Zenith USA records are very good, but nowhere near as complete as the Stromberg files. Would guess there are many more, memory not as good as it once was. And would offer a shameless plea for ANY European carburetor application and bill-of-material documentation for pre-WWII vehicles. Jon.
  13. Tom - I have no record of a Solex fitted by a USA manufacturer. Zenith is quite a different story. I show Zenith as being original equipment on USA produced cars as early as 1912, and there might be some earlier. They were used on literally hundreds of different cars, trucks, marine, agricultural, industrial, and even air applications; including the Ford model A as you mentioned. Sometime is the early 1920's, the company was acquired by Bendix Aviation, along with the Stromberg Carburetor Company. Sometime in the mid-1970's, Bendix went through the anti-trust breakup, and divested both Zenith and Stromberg to another holding company (Facet). Stromberg pretty much ceased operation, but Zenith continued to produce carburetors, and is still in business today, producing carburetors for some industrial applications. For the most part, Zenith sales for passenger applications in the USA ended in the mid-1930's. But they were still very much involved with truck, marine, industrial, and agricultural sale. Here is a link: If you would like to see various Zenith (and other) applications, try this link: and click on the various kit links (passenger, truck, marine, etc.) I never researched the early ownership of Zenith USA, but guessing it was organized as a totally different entity, possibly paying royalties, than Zenith France. I would love to acquire a copy of your article, when finished and you are able to release it. Jon
  14. Tony - there are a number of updraft one barrel carbs that would run the engine IF YOU HAD A SINGLE BARREL INTAKE! (Although the afore-mentioned pot of gold might come into play!) The issue is making the large single barrel work with the two barrel manifold. By the time you fabricate a plenum (DEFINATELY NOT AN ADAPTER) of sufficient volume for the conversion, I think the carb would be so low as to not fit in the existing space. Jon
  15. According to the title of your thread, you have a 1932 Buick 344 (assuming series 80 or 90). The following is based on the assumption that you have an 80 or 90 series: The 80/90 used a Marvel TWO-BARREL updraft carburetor. You are looking for a modern replacement. To my knowledge, the LATEST (modern?) two barrel updraft carburetors were: (A) Stromberg UUR-2 used on a WWII White truck, and (B) another Stromberg UUR-2 used on the late 1930's Bugatti type 57. The White truck carbs used to surface occasionally through military surplus vendors, to the chagrin of those buying them thinking they had found the Leprechaun's pot of gold; only to find they needed to empty their own pot of gold to convert the truck carburetor into passenger use. And do you really wish to compete with the Type 57 folks for the Bugatti carb? Assuming you acquire one of these (or an earlier UUR-2, UU-2 OO-2, Zenith 105-DC, Schebler S Duplex, Penberthy Duplex, Johnson Duplex, or Detroit Lubricator/Stewart Duplex), it still cannot be used with original manifold. You will have to fabricate a fairly complicated adapter; and you may/may not have sufficient clearance for any of the above mentioned carbs; and recalibration would be a major/expensive issue. Mark mentioned the Carter type BB-1 updraft, BUT THIS IS A SINGLE BARREL CARB!. One-barrel -> two-barrel adapters do not work well, especially updraft; PLUS the largest of the Carter BB-1 carbs maxes out on 1930 and newer engines at about 315 CID if you had a single barrel intake. Using a 1 ->2 adapter, I would not suggest using the largest BB-1 on more than 250 CID 1930 or newer engine. So what are your options? (1) use the original Marvel (bet Mark enjoys reading me suggest this ) (2) flip the intake and use a modern DOWNDRAFT 2-barrel (3) fabricate an entirely new intake to accept TWO single barrel updraft carbs (lie to your buddies that it was a factory performance option ) (4) fabricate a new plenum/adapter to mate one of the expensive 2-barrel updrafts to your Buick intake My choice, depending on the condition of your Marvel and riser, would be either (1) or (2), probably (2) above. Buick Marvel two-barrel updraft (no, it isn't a 90 series): Jon.
  16. Can offer no advice, but can offer memories of driving impression of a similar car. 1967 - special ordered Mustang 390 fastback GTA as a FAMILY car (wife and I). Actually, it was her car. The automatic transmission lasted about 1 week into the Ford strike in 1968. 13 weeks and the wife had my TR-3, and I had Dad's Ford pickup. 1968 - Ford finally settled the strike and got the auto transmission fixed; and promptly special ordered 1968 Mustang 390 GT (no miserable "A") fastback. Car plowed a little with spirited cornering, but still was quicker than most anything else in the baja boondocks of rural Missouri. Original Firestone wide ovals lasted almost 6k miles, and were replaced with Goodyears. Somewhat better handling, but still not up to my TR-3. Goodyears lasted almost 9k miles, and I was tired of changing tires! Replaced with a set of Goodyear radials. WHAT A REMARKABLE DIFFERENCE!!!!! Car no longer plowed in the corners. Really great performance for 1968.................straight line, cornering, cruising, whatever. The Goodyear radials still had about 60 percent tread after 45k miles when we traded the car for a better on gasoline version during the first gasoline rationing in 1973. One of only two cars I really wish I could have afforded to have kept. The only service issues (other than tires) is the steel GT wheels starting cracking at about 30k miles (YES, the car WOULD corner!). Ford replaced them under warranty at no cost to me. Was really fun to watch the wife drive the car (4 lane in town). Some kid would pull up beside her in his whatever at a stop light, look over and see the GT emblem, and start reving the engine. Light would turn green, and she would be waiting for him at the next light, and she was just driving, NOT racing. What a car!. Jon
  17. Very well worth the time to read. Very enjoyable, both what is written, and what is implied. Jon.
  18. Now there is a resolution that i LIKE!!! Jon.
  19. Automobile related, everyone is going to lose weight! 😜 Does anyone ever lose weight? I have but two: (1) Finish digitizing most of the existing Stromberg Carburetor Company (USA) records. I acquired the records in 1984, and this has been a continuing project. It appears, at least at the current rate of progress, should finish in maybe October or November. (2) Continue the transfer of some of my automotive "treasures" to younger enthusiasts (well, maybe older ones as well). Neither of my children collect things automotive. Jon.
  20. This link should help: Jon.
  21. Ben - I am an old geezer that doesn't dislike telephones as much as I detest the necessary evil of email To protect the integrity of our computer systems, emails are sent to an off-site computer and checked Sunday afternoons, TIME PERMITTING. If time doesn't permit, then next Sunday afternoon. Would be best if you call Monday. Others: After re-reading my posts, it seems I neglected to post clearances. As a general rule, both the Rochester 4-Jet and the Carter WCFB used 0.004~0.006 as a design tolerance. Additional field wear of 0.003 is acceptable. So if the clearance as measured with a dial indication, not click-click, is less than 0.010 best to leave alone. I have yet to see either the cast iron WCFB or the cast iron 4-Jet require bushings. The earlier WCFB and 4-Jet has aluminum throttle bodies, which occasionally do need bushing (very rare). The Carter AFB is a different animal with the huge aluminum throttle body; and initial tolerance of 0.016~0.022 were used.Will the throttle body suck some air before it heats up? Sure. Did the engineers allow for this? Guess what? The automatic choke is heat activated to the warm of the engine, NOT a timed electric, and increases the mixture until the engine warms. Sometimes engineers really do know what they are doing I have yet to see a Carter AFB that required bushing. On a personal note: when I bushed my first carb (for my own car, experiment on my own before doing for customers), I set the tolerance at 0.004 just like the minimum design. Now, I have some pretty good machinery, and I think I am pretty cautious; but I do not (for the most part) have production quality equipment. The first time the engine warmed, the throttle shaft seized in the throttle body. Took out the shaft, and resized to 0.005 clearance with no more issues. So from then on, I used 0.005 as my standard. Since this is concerning Buicks: Buick used the Stromberg type WW for years. The WW was an excellent carb, but with the Achilles heel of an aluminum throttle body. The first rebuild of ANY Stromberg WW should include bushing the throttle body. After that, the WW is virtually bullet-proof. Same 0.004~0.006 for the WW. Finally: if the tolerance exceeds the limits: BEFORE bushing the throttle body, disassemble the throttle body, removing the throttle shaft (FILE THE BACK SIDE OF THE SCREWS OFF FIRST!!!!!). Now measure the out-of-round of the throttle shaft. Much easier to replace the shaft (although they aren't inexpensive) than bushing the throttle body. Fix what needs to be fixed. Jon.
  22. The above post was made in a hurry. Adding: The reason for never reaming the throttle body, and for not using a drill bit is quite simple. Pretend that your are Superman and have X-Ray vision. If you ream the throttle body through, and install the bushings, with your X-Ray vision looking down on the throttle body, you can see two tiny triangles on each side of the bushing where the flat end of the bushing meets the curvature of the throttle bore. These are sufficiently large to allow internal air to bypass the throttle valve. This often will result in a very high idle, as too much air will be present at idle. Additionally, trying to adjust the idle for the extra air may mean closing the throttle valve to the point where there is no mixture flow in the idle transition circuit, thus causing a hesitation when accelerating from the idle to the off-idle or idle transition circuit. When using the end mill, measure the distance from outside the throttle body to the throttle bore so you can leave approximately 0.030 inch or more to maintain the curvature of the throttle bore. Since the drill bit is cut at an angle, using a drill bit will leave a cavity with edges between the bushing and the remaining material. Carburetors are certainly not rocket science, but they do require correct maintenance. With no offense meant to anyone; this is a procedure that is best left to a professional with the correct machines. No, I do NOT offer this service! I have been asked many times over the years to offer a kit for installing bushings. My answer has been "if you have the machines to properly do the work, you don't need the kit; and if you do not have the machines to do the work, you definitely do not need the kit"! Jon
  23. Reaming is done to the bushings AFTER the bushings are installed to obtain the final clearance. Reaming the throttle body might also result in reaming one's wallet!!!!! Machining the throttle body for the bushings, IF YOU WANT GOOD RESULTS, should be done with an end mill in a milling machine, or at worst, a very high quality drill press. A DRILL BIT SHOULD NOT BE USED! Lots of carburetor throttle bodies are unnecessarily bushed!!!!! Check the original manufacturer's specifications, AND MEASURE! (Using one's index finger to move the throttle shaft back and forth is an insufficient measure ). And certainly not all tolerances are the same, even within the same manufacturer! Jon.
  24. In the For What Its Worth category, followed by the Why Didn't It Happen category: Was researching a different carburetor in the Stromberg experimental files today, and found an entry where Stromberg built an experimental downdraft type EE-3 (Packard, Duesenberg, others) for Buick for use on the 1932 series 90. Carb was released 8 February 1932. No other information in the file. Jon.
  25. Just to add a wee bit to Ed's comments above: While we manufacture carb kits, and do offer kits for the Johnson carbs, this is a carburetor that screams: "send me to a professional". And no, we no longer restore carburetors, so not grinding my own ax. Ed - you might be interested to know that we once manufactured a replica of the original cork float in the closed cellular foam, but gave up on it because of individuals that couldn't get the funky double float axle arrangement to work. And most of the hinge arrangements are worn out. Better to not sell the float than have an enthusiast with a fire! And as Ed mentioned, lots of incorrect parts out there, or just plain misunderstandings. The fuel valve for the V-8 carbs has a much larger orifice than the ones for the 12/16. Jon.