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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Interesting thread, and the OP makes some good points about electronics. However: I seem to bring out the worst in anything electronic.😠 Joe made the comment about the government looking for 100k miles without failure. I have yet to experience 100k miles in ANY electronic ignitioned vehicle that had no electronic ignition failures. Two examples: (1) 1979 Ford van 440k miles on original engine - 13 electronic ignition failures. I carried TWO in the glove box! (2) 1979 Ford Mustang, special order, always garaged, never seen snow, seen rain once 65k original miles, now on third electronic ignition (total failures) On all newer personal vehicles with original electronics (includes immediate family and company) we AVERAGE a mean mileage to failure of about 30k miles with the electronics! I won't try to convince anyone to stay with points, but personally, Hollywood will be covered by glaciers (think of the cliche) before I personally convert points to electronics. Professionally: We get many calls daily of enthusiasts with "carburetor issues". Generally, these are idle or hesitation. If idle. our first question used to be "have you done a compression test?". Now our first question is "have you installed a p-conversion"? If the answer is yes, we suggest the upgrade to points and condenser as a "test". At least 50 per cent of those with "carburetor idle issues" and the pertronix call back to tell me points and condenser SOLVED the "carburetor issue". So if you wish to use it, go ahead, but if an older vehicle that originally had a generator, do yourself a favor and upgrade to an alternator when you do the p-con.
  2. Adapters are readily available, and have been for 40 years. Check with the better supply houses. Jon.
  3. The ONLY upgrade to the original carburetor for a mostly stock engine, might be a custom dual quad using an original Buick intake, and somewhat smaller original Carter carbs. (Opinion). Of course, you could always install one of the shiny new clones with the larger air intake, but to make it work correctly, you would need to replace the engine with a bowtie 350. Jon.
  4. Ed - see that you figured out the kit reference. 5632 - the manufacturers of carburetors did NOT publish the CFM of virtually ALL original equipment carburetors. There was no reason to do so. As far as CFM for aftermarket carburetors ???????? You might find this link interesting: Possibly the most knowledgeable person who ever lived concerning CFM was Mark Twain. He once made the comment "figures don't lie, but liars figure"! As an example, one well-known company that did not have a 600 CFM carburetor simply renumbered one of their 625 CFM carburetors and called it a 600 CFM. As far as your Carter is concerned, when Carter was bought in about 1985, the new parent company ordered a lot of stuff to be discarded. Much of the data was discarded into my van to save. Included in this were the Carter flow tests. Yes, your carburetor was flow tested, but NOT for maximum capacity. Carter was interested in the A/F ratios at different values of vacuum, which is why the carburetors were flow tested. And, no offense meant to you, but your comment in your other thread about how you look and how you ski is spot on; but you will find it can be a double-edged sword when it comes to automobiles. How you look with a lot of shiny new components in the engine compartment which don't help the performance of the engine.....................can be a major turn-off to some. But there is an old cliche about beauty......................... Jon.
  5. Nice of Hemmings to advertise for me for free The last number on each line in the referenced link is our rebuilding kit number. I was unaware this list existed. Jon
  6. Is the plunger a ball? If so Grose-jet Jon.
  7. Classic's shop was closed for them by the gentleman with the long beard and the scythe. It will happen to us all. Jon
  8. Carbking is NOT strongly prejudiced against Marvel carbs, and I did not tell John to scrap it, nor did he mention to scrap it. My words were that I didn't want it at any price, even free. WHY??? I am currently several years past normal retirement age, and have more than 150,000 carburetors; I simply do not need more. But one issue to consider is that many enthusiasts of vehicles that used Marvels probably already have an original, and most will have two or three spares. There simply is not the market for the early brass carbs that existed 50 years ago. As far as Marvel carbs (any many other early carbs) are concerned: If one is building a numbers-matching original showcar or a museum piece; then the original carb is the way to go, regardless of its quality. For a "driver", there are better carbs, actually, MUCH better carbs, many of which can be acquired at a fraction of the cost to make an original functional. And there is always the enthusiast that enjoys trying to make the original work; I have no issue with that whatsoever, and manufacture rebuilding kits to help. But a few facts (not just my opinions): There were more than 600 manufacturers of carburetors in the USA alone. But of that group that were in business in the 'teens and 'twenties; only Carter, Holley, Stromberg, and Zenith still existed in the 1950's as suppliers for cars & trucks. The merged Marvel/Schebler brand, and Tillotson also still existed for small engine, as well as tractor and some industrial engines. Rochester started to produce carburetors in 1949. Why did the rest cease to exist? Much of the following is speculation on my part, not provable facts: Transportation and communication improved dramatically. In the case of Marvel (this is a fact) virtually ALL of their customers were headquartered within 50 miles of the Marvel factory in Flint, Michigan. Where was Buick's headquarters? Many of the early carbs were designed (and advertised) as "automatic" carburetors. Marvel and Schebler were two of the biggest using air valve springs, which fatigue over time. This type of carb never worked as well as the "plain tube" design used by companies such as Stromberg and Zenith. Lots of really unusual ideas were tried by some of the early carburetor companies. As an example, one well-known early carburetor manufacturer ran electricity to a heating element INSIDE THE CARBURETOR BOWL to preheat the fuel! Some ideas just didn't pan out. Of course timing can always be a factor when a company ceases to exist, example Stromberg USA died when their last major customer, G.M.C., stopped production of their own V-6 and started using corporate Chevrolet V-8's in 1975. But back to Marvel, and to give them their due respect: of all of the early manufacturers, Marvel was among the top 5 or so in customer service. Marvel issued excellent manuals, as well as service bulletins (few have probably seen the service bulletins, as they are quite rare today). Marvel also offered the mechanic an excellent tool set with specialized tools for working on Marvel carbs (and they ALL need work ) and Marvel offered a number of different cabinets of spare parts. Too bad the basic design was much less efficient than their competitors. But since I threw roses, some "stones" are also in order: while many of the early carburetor manufacturers totally ignored S.A.E. specification suggestions (Zenith immediately comes to mind), Marvel carried proprietary specifications to an art. The flange arrangement of most Marvels is such that no other make can easily be adapted. With a few exceptions, the only parts interchangeable from one Marvel to another are the body screws and fiber washers. For this reason, the only aftermarket company of which I am aware that made repair parts for Marvels back in the day was Standard Hygrade. But this probably hurt Marvel in the long run, as mechanics were forced to buy parts only from Marvel, and because of the lack of interchangeability, stock ridiculous amounts of spares. But from a design point of view, the spacer block/air valve of the Marvel simply cannot atomize the fuel as efficiently as carburetors with a venturi. Oh, and John, your carb is either a 1926~1928 Buick Master or a late 1927/8 GMC T-40 or T-50 using the Buick Master engine. Jon.
  9. Scroll to the bottom of the link: Brass float repair Jon.
  10. Looking to buy a tap made by Bay State (trying to complete a vintage tap & die set). Size needed is 1/4 x 32. Prefer 4 flute, but 3 flute would be acceptable. Prefer plug tap, but bottom tap would be acceptable. MUST say Bay State on the tap. I have plenty of 1/4 x 32 taps which are not Bay State to use. This one will probably never be used. Jon.
  11. Two German type PHH side-draft carbs. Restoration started by the shop from whom we acquired them many years ago. Listed on Ebay 362633274803 with an entry price of $250. and a BIN of $500. Jon.
  12. Send me an email with the carb numbers, and which shafts you need for each. I might have decent used ones. Will look. Jon.
  13. The 1/4 inch should work well. Check the numbers on the Q-Jets before practice. Some of them are worth more than the dual quad carbs! Jon.
  14. Bernie - Guessing that he is running the Holley 2300 through an adapter also, which would make it run worse than the original two-barrel. Even though rated 350 CFM, the effective CFM through the adapter would be less than the original. Jon.
  15. Assuming you have the original two-barrel manifold, you will get BETTER driveability, power, and fuel economy from an original two-barrel than you will with the e-clone running through an adapter. But your call. Jon.
  16. "Notsoeasyouts" often work well in steel; VIRTUALLY NEVER IN BRASS! A carburetor is a perfect example of a Galvanic cell (two dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid). In this case one has aluminum, brass, and gasoline. Ion flow takes place and beads of corrosion build up in the threads, making the jets difficult to remove. There is a method that always works, once perfected; BUT IT SHOULD BE PERFECTED ON A SERIES OF JUNK CARBURETORS! Bill of materials: (1) Set of left-handed drill bits THAT YOU HAVE DELIBERATELY DULLED (2) Reversible drill (3) Empty 5-gallon bucket (4) Piece of 1-inch foam rubber (for the bottom of the bucket) (5) Acetylene torch with jewelers tip Procedure: (1) Fill the bucket approximately 3/4 full with water (2) Light the torch, and adjust to a pencil flame (3) Rotate the point of the flame on the periphery of the jet, always moving in a circle, always on the brass. (4) When the color of the flame changes from blue to yellow-green, drop the casting in the bucket of water. (5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 (6) Spray liberally with your favorite brand of penetrating oil. (7) Using the left-handed drill bit of the appropriate size and the reversible drill, gouge the jet, and it will spin out. It should be noted here that using this procedure with a stubborn jet to begin with, will never allow the jet to lose its slot. Not that I am advocating reusing jets, but a screwdriver is easier than the drill. AGAIN, PERFECT THIS PROCEDURE ON CARBS THAT YOU CAN THROW AWAY! Why it works: The heat will burn the oxygen from the corrosion molecules thereby reducing the physical space they occupy in the threads. This allows a good penetrating oil to lubricate the threads, and the left-handed turning action will spin out the jet. And yes, I HAVE removed literally hundreds of jets using this method. CAVIAT TO THOSE THAT APPLY ANYTHING TO ANYTHING: This is not meant as a generic fix, rather a fix in working with the Carter AFB castings. The melting temperature of aluminum (the base metal of the Carter AFB casting) is maybe twice the melting temperature of zinc alloy. Thus, if one tries this method on a zinc-alloy body, one must be extremely careful. The method will still work, but there is zero margin for error (i.e. the flame slipping from the jet onto the casting). EDIT: For those that think maybe the notsoeasyout would work instead of the drill, consider: the force to "grab" the jet applied by the notsoeasyout is virtually sideways, thus pushing the soft brass against the side of the casting, and creating additional friction, whereas the force exerted by the drill is virtually in the same plane as the drill, not creating additional friction. But try it if you will. I was never successful, but it might work for others. Jon.
  17. The power valve and the economizer valve are two different names for an enrichment valve. Some call it a power valve, as it is opened generally under wide open throttle to enrich the mixture for power. Some call it an economizer valve, as it is normally closed, allowing smaller main jets to deliver better economy at "cruise". EDIT: found this thread via search, and read the last post first. Assuming you have the original Holley carb, the economizer valve is probably not the culprit. The Holley design has the outlet for the economizer valve dumping directly into the throttle area. If it fails, generally will be so much extra fuel the engine will not run. Not saying it couldn't be the valve, but Ford ignition is much more likely to be the issue. Jon.
  18. And if a picture is worth 1000 words? Jon
  19. Without checking the prints, would guess that the shafts are unique to the dual quad carbs. Repeat, this is a guess. The throttle plates often are not unique. There is generally no reason to replace the shafts other than the efforts of Dr. Goodpliers (you know, the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench). The methods described earlier in this thread work, and work well. New throttle shafts can be machined by ANY competent machine shop that is interested in doing the work. A skilled enthusiast can do the work provided the enthusiast has a lathe and milling machine. One first needs to index the "double D" on the end of the shafts with the slot. Now one can first cut the slot using a milling machine and a "slitting saw". Once this has been done, the holes for the screws may be cut and threaded, and the double D on one or both ends of the shaft cut. Now the original throttle arm may be installed on the correct side sliding over the machined double D, and peening to retain. New throttle plates are more difficult, but may be done by a good machine shop. The first step is to take a piece of round metal bar, and turn it to the diameter of the throttle bore. Now the tricky part is to cut the shaft into two shafts at an angle the same as the closing angle of the throttle plates (Carter generally stamped this angle on the plates). Once the metal bar has been cut and both bars trued, two holes should be drilled into the two pieces of bar representing the position of the holes in the throttle plates. The holes in one of the shafts should be threaded, and studs installed. The holes in the other end should be just sufficiently large to slip over the studs. Now, measure the thickness of the existing throttle plates, and acquire flat metal of the same type (brass, aluminum, etc.) and thickness. Cut "blanks" which are larger than the largest diameter of the plates. Drill holes to represent the screw holes in each of the blanks. Slide the blanks over the studs in the end of the shaft with studs, slide on the other end, and secure with nuts on the studs. Place the shaft with studs into a four-jaw chuck on your lathe, and CENTER. Now, turn down the portion of the "blanks" to where the blanks are smooth with the shafts. Remove the nuts, the end cap shaft, and FINISHED throttle plates. Each will have the correct closing angle. Jon.
  20. Maybe a bit of clarification is necessary here. The universal BB-1's were designed to be used either with pressure or with gravity-feed, depending on the fuel orifice. And they were universally calibrated, with the adjustable main jet for tweaking the adjustment. HOWEVER: Carbs that were designed for use on a SPECIFIC application will not have the same jetting as the universals. So just buying a carb that was designed for a fuel pump, and then changing the fuel orifice is absolutely no guarantee that the carb will be calibrated for the one's specific application. The table I published in the article listed ALL of the applications for which Carter recommended the switch. Other than these carbs on these applications, the user becomes his/her own engineer. And buying a carb with no tag is worse than buying a pig in a poke. I need to dig up the quotation about purchases from economist John Ruskin and post it again. Jon.
  21. Happy to see enthusiasts in this age group! When trying to start the engine when hot (maybe 5 minutes to 45 minutes after shutdown), do NOT open the throttle. Begin to crank the engine, and while cranking after maybe 5 seconds, open the throttle maybe 1/4 of the distance. The engine should start but run rough for 30 seconds to a minute; then it should run fine. Please report back on the results. Jon.
  22. Stromberg used to offer different orifice size fuel valve seats in the 'teens, based on the "fuel head", or how far the carburetor fuel inlet was below the fuel source FOR THE SAME CARBURETOR. On a typical S.A.E. size 2 or size 3 brass carb; Stromberg would generally recommend a 0.140 orifice for an 8 inch fuel head, and a 0.111 orifice for a 14 inch fuel head. "Listening" (with books, as they have all departed us) to the original engineers tends to make many things in life work better. Jon.
  23. Should you be interested in how to remove the twisted screws: If one has a milling machine with a tilt table: Set the table to the angle of the throttle plates with twisted screws If one has a GOOD drill press with a vise, one will need to fabricate a fixture to hold the throttle body at the angle of the throttle plates with the twisted screws. The idea with both of the above is to locate the spinning center perpendicular to the screw, so that it may be drilled without damaging the threads. Now, using a diamond tipped, pointed burr, center a "starter hole" in the center of one of the screws. Drill a small hole through the screw. If you have the proper set-up, you will not touch the shaft. Now, DULL a bit slightly larger than the one used to drill the through hole Remove the casting from the vise, and heat the screw as in my post above this one Reinstall the casting in the vise, and using the dull bit, gently jam the dull bit into the screw. Once it catches, it will spin the screw out the back of the shaft, saving the thread in the shaft, and the throttle plates. Repeat for the rest of the screws. Penetrating oil rarely is going to free a shaft that is frozen, you must use heat (see above post). PATIENCE IS ONE'S FRIEND! If the shaft looks like it is true and undamaged other than frozen, after heating, reinstall the throttle plates before attempting to turn the shaft. The will help support the center of the shaft, and minimize the danger of the shaft twisting. Opinion - unless a very rare and valuable carburetor, at the point where one has 4 twisted screws and a bent shaft, one might consider just starting with a different core. Alternately, if common parts but one wishes to retain the casting because of a correct date code, cut out the shaft and plates, and then replace with parts which often may be acquired. Jon.
  24. This post is kind of like the old cliche of closing the barn door AFTER the horse escaped, however: To loosen the secondary shaft, either an ultrasonic cleaner or heat (use an electric toaster oven). Virtually ALL throttle valves are staked on the back side. If you must remove the shaft they MUST be ground off (Dremel) or filed off. If this step is not done, they will twist off.All of them. After removing the remains of the screw on the back side, using a torch with a pencil flame, heat the screw. If steel, until red. If brass, until the flame turns yellowish-green. Be careful that you stay off of the valve with the flame of the torch. Allow to cool, and all screws will come out. What you now have is restorable, however, unless this is a very rare carb (Super Duty Pontiac, NASCAR Chevrolet, etc.), the cost to fix it now exceeds its value. Try the above on your next carburetor that is rough. Jon.