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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Very seldom do I disagree with NTX5467, but in this case I must. First, the internal choke pull offs virtually never give problems, and when they do the issue is easy to fix. If an issue arises, it will virtually always be a result of the heat tube inside the manifold burning through, and raw exhaust flowing through the tube into the choke housing and causing either a burr or slight warpage in the cylinder housing the pull off piston. To repair: (1) Remove the choke housing (2) If possible remove the choke pull off piston (3) Measure the O.D. of the expansion plug sealing the lower end of the piston cylinder (4) Go to your flaps and acquire two (never hurts to have an extra), also a small sheet of 1200 grit emery cloth (5) Drill a small hole in the center of the expansion plug in the housing, and pry it out (6) Measure the I.D. of the cylinder (7) Got to the hardware store and acquire a piece of dowel rod the next size smaller (8) Get out your special carburetor rebuilding tool (a.k.a. hack saw) and cut a small groove lengthways in the dowel rod (9) Carefully wrap a piece of the emery cloth around the rod, with the ends folded in the groove (10) Using a variable speed drill, slowly ream the cylinder (11) Clean the piston, re-install the piston, and check that it moves freely (12) Once the piston moves freely, install a new expansion plug, and peen it into place (13) MOST IMPORTANT -- FIX THE HEAT TUBE IN THE MANIFOLD!!!!! Now, as to the later carbs with the external choke pull off. Personally, I have NEVER liked them, as the divorced choke has to compensate for the mass of the connecting rod, placing additional tension on the choke coil. Better than electric, but still inferior to the integral choke pull off. HOWEVER Today there is an additional problem. The divorced chokes and choke pull offs before about 1980 have been discontinued!!!!! We bought the complete inventory of P & D, as well as a lot of Hygrade, and a couple of other brands. Walker still has a decent selection, but choke pull offs in the era are disappearing, and divorced chokes have mostly disappeared. A very few are being reproduced off shore (NOS does NOT mean new off shore!) for big block Corvettes, RA GTO's etc. As to electrics: I learned this lesson the hard way. Discovered the burned out exhaust tube on the wife's vehicle, and was busier than I should be, and installed the electric. Twice, it stalled with her at a stop sign 3 blocks from the house, would NOT restart as the choke was now wide open, and she had to walk. Removed the manifold, fixed the exhaust tube, re-installed the hot air choke, and the car performed normally........and she was happy! If you must use an electric with an older automatic transmission, start the vehicle, and go back in the house for a couple of cups of coffee. By the time you consume these, the engine should be at normal temperature and the electric choke won't hurt you. Or you could always upgrade to a manual transmission! Jon.
  2. Assuming the rebuilt Rochester is correct for your car, it will: (A) fit, without the adapter, the linkage mods, the aftermarket air cleaner, and possibly transmission linkage mods AND a Holley guru to tune it! (B) produce more power (C) use less fuel (D) be more reliable (E) have better driveability Jon.
  3. Ben - one other thing that comes to mind. I am assuming you still have points/condenser in this car. We have had dozens, perhaps hundreds - I have completely lost count, of customers with issues like this when using a certain points replacement module. Often, re-installing points and condenser (new old stock, NOT new off-shore!) solves the issue. If you are using that conversion, an alternator is mandatory. Jon.
  4. Ben - the idle tubes are very easy to modify, albeit somewhat expensive for doing it the first time, because of the initial cost of the tools. You will need: (A) drill set of numbered drills #61~80 (B) pin vise I just checked the MSC website. They have several sets of 61~80 drills from about $30. to well over $100. for the set. A couple of sets around $45. which would be good. They also have a number of pin vises in the $10 ~ $15. range. Get one of the hand-held pin vises. Use the number drills to find the current value of the idle tubes (guessing about 0.032). Whatever it is, just add 0.002, find the appropriate bit, and using the hand held pin vise, ream out both idle tubes. This will require resetting the idle mixture control screws. You will now have a richer mixture, as opposed to a larger quantity of a leaner mixture. The 4-GC is STILL a wonderful carburetor. But it does need to be re-calibrated for todays fuel. If you do not wish to purchase the tools, maybe you have a friend in the gas furnace business. The most common use for these drills is when converting a furnace from propane to natural gas. Jon.
  5. How do you kill the engine on purpose using the accelerator petal? You can easily fabricate a dual quad air cleaner by modifying one of the repro Ford units. The big oval air cleaner has been reproduced three ways: (A) bottom punched for Ford 2x4, (B) bottom punched for Ford 3x2, (C) bottom not punched. Jon
  6. Same thoughts. These carbs, when properly rebuilt, are good for 100k miles assuming normal maintenance of the fuel and air filters. Some of the more reliable auto parts ever built. Jon.
  7. If you buy an older rebuilt carburetor, HOPE that it has a leather accelerator pump. If it does, a few drops of light machine oil, and good as new. If it is synthetic, and more than a couple of years old, it will not hold up in E-10. The only reason Rochester went to the synthetic pump was cheap. Carter never did. Jon.
  8. Very first Chickasha, Oklahoma "early cars" swap meet. We set up at the meet, which was grossly over-hyped. Turned out to be a glorified Ford Model A and Model T meet. Didn't sell a solitary item; but: Walking around, found an older gentleman (older then, probably younger than I am now ) with two tables of "rebuilt" Ford carburetors. 'Nuff said about his rebuilding skills, but there were two new old stock "odd" to him carbs setting by themselves. Each was tagged "non-Ford, $1. One was a Marvel for a 1930 Pontiac (I was carburetion tech advisor for POCI at the time). The other was a Zenith 105DC (Stutz). Needless to say I did not try to haggle the price! Jon.
  9. Airy - if you are making these to sell, they should sell well. Between Carter and Rochester, among various makes of vehicles, there are more than 400 different of these plates used originally. Some vehicles absolutely require them. I think only a dozen or so different have been reproduced. We have made quite a few out of 0.030 stainless (think restaurant going out of business ) steel simply by putting the stainless between two pieces of half inch plywood (support), bolting it together, drawing the pattern on the top piece of plywood, and cutting it out. Many of the vehicles that required these use Carter AFB carbs. Jon.
  10. Steve - the letter(s) and numbers should be together. The Rayfield type E has the float with the fuel valve going through the center. I have information on the type E. This one is not a type E. Jon.
  11. The Rayfield carb is a mystery to me. I think I have every piece of Rayfield literature printed up to and including 1919. All of the Rayfields to that date have the cylindrical float with a hole in the center, and the fuel valve going through the float. A pair of "float followers" attached to a rocker assembly cause the fuel valve to be pressed down as the float raises. The carb in the picture appears to have an offset fuel valve. Can you insert a mirror between the carb and the block to see if there are any casting markings on that side of the carb. Typically, Rayfield would have a letter (or 2) followed by a number. Examples: A-2, GL-3, etc. I have been looking for later Rayfield material for the last 48 years, and found nothing. Jon.
  12. Exactly why teflon should NEVER be used. Teflon is a wonderful lubricant. Over the years I have thrown away a number carburetor castings which were cracked, and still had teflon thread residue. New male fittings were available for these, off the shelf. I understand that occasionally, especially on older vehicles, new fittings MIGHT not be available off the shelf. Some 40 plus years ago, we paid a tool and die maker to fabricate special tools to allow us to machine new inverted flare fittings. And I shutter to think how much I have tied up in special thread taps and dies for various non-standard threads. Not impossible, and sometimes a bit of money spend on tooling saves a bunch of money. Not that hard to acquire new fittings. Jon.
  13. Tape? Tape? Oh yes, once I thought I had found a legitimate use for Teflon tape. My Dad used to love to mow grass, and as he grew older his eyesight deteriorated somewhat; and I had just set out over 100 saplings. So I tied the tape (it comes in a number of bright colors) onto the saplings so Dad could see them easier. It worked for about 2 mowings, and then the deer ate the tape. So I still have yet to find a legitimate use for Teflon tape. Might be able to use it for ribbons on Christmas presents. Book markers? It must be good for something? On the serious side: if the fittings are clean, started properly, and not overtightened; THEY WON'T LEAK! Jon.
  14. For those that insist on using sealants on fuel fittings, we make an excellent selection of carburetor rebuilding kits. Jon
  15. Dave - over the last 25 or so years, we have had at least several hundred, and probably thousands that have called us with drivability issues and this modification, from Hawaii to Alaska. Of course, we hear from those that have issues, not those that do not; so do not know the ratio of happy to unhappy; but your experience is certainly not shared by all. My personal Pontiac GTO was drivable only using "heel and toe" technique around town for at least 20 minutes, IN THE SUMMER! Or, I could set the idle at about 1800 RPM (definitely not recommended for a street driven car). There are three solutions of which I am aware: (1) Remove the modification (best) (2) Install a manual choke (easiest and least expensive) (3) Recalibrate the carburetor about 2 sizes rich, which destroys fuel economy, and can also do damage to the engine (not recommended) If one lives near an interstate, starts the engine, immediately gets on the interstate and drives 30 miles at interstate speeds, one would probably not notice issues. But city driving, not a good idea for many. I am happy for you that it works for you. Jon.
  16. I admit it, I really wanted to believe it made a difference, Boy, did it! But not what I wanted! In self-defense, I was about 30 years younger and more gullible (this (*&^%$# mis-information has been around that long). It was easier to install a carburetor with a manual choke (and I like manual chokes anyway) than to undo the heat cross-over modification. Now I have the best of both worlds. I use the choke in town for the first 20 to 30 minutes; and I have the extra 6 1/2 horsepower at WOT (Not the 15~25 HP promised). This was absolutely the second worst mistake I ever made in working on vehicles over a 60 year time period. (The worst was thinking I was smart enough to make a Pontiac 301 run decent!). It wasn't really the 301 engine's fault, as it had good torque from 2700 to 2750 RPM. What I really needed was a 28 speed transmission! Jon.
  17. If I had a dollar for every prospective customer that had read about blocking heat cross-overs and called me because of drivability issues, I could retire and buy an island somewhere!!!!! The rule(s) of thumb: (1) 1 to 1 1/2 PERCENT power increase at WOT (yes, for a trailered racecar, there is a measurable improvement) (2) 20 to 30 minutes drivability issues around town And I was one of the idiots that did so to my own car! I finally ended up installing a manual choke, and I have a manual transmission. I shutter to think of the problems I would have had if the car had an automatic! This modification is really best left ONLY to the racers. Jon.
  18. Joe - thanks. Now I need to figure out how to show the status level on one line with the casting numbers. This type of information very rarely seen. Again, thanks for sharing. Padgett - I THINK? all of the Pontiac manifolds are listed. Jon.
  19. Starting this thread as a result of questions in another thread. I have now updated my listing of factory multiple carb manifolds to include models of which I am aware that used multiple carbs, that I have no castings numbers. What is listed is as complete and accurate as what I can list with the resources available to me. The whole purpose of this list is to help enthusiasts identify these manifold. The casting number, which is not necessarily the part number is the number listed. I am pretty certain that what is posted is correct, however, there are some missing data in what is posted; and there is bound to me something I missed. ANY documented help, either in the area of missing data, or corrections, would be appreciated. Factory multiple carburetor intake manifold casting numbers Jon
  20. I have been interested (and specialized) in multiple carbs for a long time. In an effort to help enthusiasts identify FACTORY multi-carb intakes, I have compiled the following list: Factory multiple carb intakes I BELIEVE that what is listed is correct, however there are probably some obscure manifolds I have missed. If anyone can add to (or correct) the list, I would appreciate any input. I know both Hudson and Nash had multiples, but have no listings of the manifold casting numbers. Jon.
  21. There really is not one! Carter built 505 DIFFERENT type AFB carburetors, and they are just that, different. Even the published for the public Carter documentation is generic (but better than the generic stuff in the FLAPS kits). Rather than using the incorrect generic stuff, we do NOT put a diagram in our kits. Better nothing than wrong! Best bet is to acquire a factory parts book for your vehicle. Even here, the diagram(s) will be generic, but less so than in general documentation. Carter did publish an "AFB Circuit Manual", which lists the various circuits in the AFB, and goes into detail describing each circuit function. The most important thing to remember in rebuilding an AFB is that the step-up rods are installed AFTER the air horn is installed. For those of you that willfully ignore this friendly advice, I have the capability of machining new step-up rods at a price. The only truly specific diagrams I have seen are the original Carter drawings which were archived on IBM aperture cards. To date, I have not found an inexpensive method of dealing with these. Now, when I need one, it takes about 30 minutes to locate the card, set up the scanner, scan, check, and store digitally. Anyone want to trade some scanning and digitizing for rare carburetors??? Jon.
  22. Ed - THANK YOU, but I have neither halos nor wings ! I do have a very large eraser! And you are correct that my chart was the first instance of "modern" multiple carbs by GM division. If one wishes to go back into history, the chart changes as follows: Cadillac - 1930 Buick - 1941 Buick was actually testing compound carburetion (but dual single barrels, not dual two barrels) in 1935 Jon.
  23. Early Q-Jets had brass floats. There have been a number of DIFFERENT style Q-Jet floats. They look interchangeable, but they are not interchangeable. Because of the failure of the Nitrophyl floats, some aftermarket brass floats were available 40 years ago to replace the Nitrophyl floats. These are not interchangeable with the early original brass floats. Floats should ALWAYS be ordered using the carburetor identification number. If you are buying a "new" brass float, check the box to see where it was made. Far eastern solder does NOT like ethanol. On the other hand, neither does Nitrophyl, but the Nitrophyl seems to be more reliable than far eastern solder. Avoid the "new" offshore brass floats. As to float adjustment: I can never remember a Q-Jet with a float out of adjustment, if one used a new correct float, and a new correct fuel valve. There are maybe 40 or so different fuel valves for the Q-Jet. Don't automatically assume that your FLAPS kit has the correct one. If float adjustment IS necessary: NEVER (one of the words I dislike using) bend the arm on the float. Instead, change the thickness of the gasket under the fuel valve. If correct for the engine, and properly rebuilt, the Q-Jet is one of the finest carbs ever built, at any price, at any time, anywhere. EDIT: and if you have to go into a Q-Jet, and it has the Nitrophyl float, don't bother trying to weigh it; "file 13" and replace it. Call it "lazy insurance" (so you don't have to replace it next week )! Jon.
  24. Buick did not build it that way; however an aftermarket set could have been added in 1959, or a Buick set could have been added after 1964. Buick was the last of the GM passenger divisions to have multiple carbs as an option: Cadillac - 1955 Chevrolet - 1956 Oldsmobile - 1957 Pontiac - 1957 Buick - 1964 Jon.