carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. The Holley8055C is significantly SMALLER than the 7041304. Might be a good choice for a basically stock 350 Chevy. If you got a Holley guru to totally recalibrate it for you, probably the only difference you would see just cruising would be a significant loss of fuel economy. Wide open throttle this Holley would lose a significant amount of power. Best of both worlds. You can go slower, and do it by using more fuel 😜 Not many folks buy the Holley spread-bore carbs for performance. Jon.
  2. They were really a great selling point for us, as we wouldn't use them. But we had dozens of customers who did, unsuccessfully, that subsequently bought a kit from us, with a real fuel valve, and were very happy. If you like the valve, I am happy for you; but if I am asked, I will strongly recommend AGAINST even thinking about considering their use. Jon
  3. Sorry to hear that, I thought they were gone forever! That means more questions from folks that run out of fuel running down the highway! A few years ago, we bought a carburetor shop that used these, and went out of business (don't know why). There were about 700 new gross-jets that we recycled in scrap brass. Pretty good pile of brass! Jon.
  4. I would never have thought of it If you have a boat load of Holley tuning parts, and own stock in Shell Oil, it is certainly an option. Jon.
  5. On your carburetor question: You should be able to fill the carburetor bowl through the bowl vent. This will allow the engine to fire if the electrics are OK. There will be sufficient fuel in the bowl to allow the engine to run 5~10 seconds. You will NOT be able to gravity feed the carburetor sufficiently to allow even a constant idle. Jon.
  6. Nice looking core; but "NOS" with gasket residue on the throttle body??? Jon.
  7. 7020240 does not exist. 7026240 was the 425 Federal carburetor in 1966. 7026240 was replaced by 7041304. Good luck on finding one! You have a better chance of winning an argument with the IRS. EDIT: (professional opinion). The BEST carburetor you can buy for a 1966 425 that is basically stock would be the 7041304. Second best would be the 7026240 after it was professionally rebuilt, and the early Rochester issues fixed (yes, there are issues, and yes, there are fixes). Other carbs could be used (various quadrajets, Carter TQ's, etc.) with the spread-bore manifold, but all would need some fabrication for linkage, fuel lines, possibly air cleaner adaptation, etc. Third choice would be an original Carter Riv AFB (not a new clone), with the square-bore intake. The 7026240 CAN be made into an excellent carburetor, assuming the rebuilder does all of the machine work to plug in the "fixes". As to new carbs, even if you found a new 7041304, it would require rebuilding, unless you have unlimited access to non-ethanol fuel. Jon.
  8. Using the large orifice with a pressure pump can cause flooding. Using the small orifice with gravity feed can cause fuel starvation. Jon.
  9. Woodie - the robots NEVER give up! Since we only answer the telephone on certain days, have had the machine for probably 15 years. The robots still call! The ONLY way to discourage them is by firing squad to the humans controlling them! Jon
  10. We are increasingly being bombarded by telephone calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. The other day, just to get some statistics, I answered all within a day. There were 18 of which 17 were "garbage" calls, either robocalls, or a person wanted to scam us. The one that was legitimate was an auto parts house that came up unknown. I asked the individual about it, and he said he would refer the question to their tech department. We are now ignoring calls with "unknown name" or "invalid name" or "private" on caller ID. If you should call us during normal telephone hours, and get our recording, would suggest you check how your telephone is configured. Jon.
  11. Obviously, I was wrong about the carb. Glad you found the issue. Jon
  12. For those who believe the old steel needles are NOT effected by ethanol: Steel needle with exposure to ethanol Jon
  13. The easy way is to determine the size (you have this), the type of engine (2 stroke, 4 stroke), and the effective maximum RPM (you have this). Then find a similar engine using the target carburetor, and look up the venturi size for that carburetor. Jon.
  14. The Stromberg model M is one of the better updraft carburetors, and one of the top level of brass updraft carburetors (the O-3 would be better, but little else would be). Just necessary to get one with the proper internal venturi for your engine. Jon.
  15. WOW - thanks for the words of encouragement! Number 1 - Chevrolet did not use a BB-1 in 1932 on a truck! Chevrolet first used the BB-1 on a truck in 1939, but only the C.O.E. versions, not other trucks. In seemingly a different lifetime ( I was about 14) Dad was a sharecropper, and I helped him farm. The tractor had an updraft carburetor. Dad told me "Never turn off the engine using an updraft carburetor with the key. Turn off the gas first, and allow the engine to die, then turn off the key". One day, was in a hurry, turned off the key, and went into the house. Something came up, and got back to the tractor about an hour later to find an empty gas tank and 22 gallons of gas under the tractor! Wise Dad! He said absolutely nothing! He knew I had learned my lesson, and to this day ALWAYS turn off the gas first with an updraft carburetor. If the idle screw has no effect on idling the engine, something is wrong. As to the fuel valve, I have been told that the Daytona valve is a reincarnation of the old Parker Brothers valve. I do not know that this is true, however, if it is true: Fuel valve types We used the Parker Brothers valve on downdraft, updraft, and sidedraft carburetors; many of the updraft and sidedraft with gravity feed without issue. Jon.
  16. I hadn't previously commented on this thread, as the OP stated he had a pertronix conversion, and generally pretty much a waste of time trying to fix a "carburetor problem" when there is an electronic whizback of questionable quality firing the gas. Since another poster has suggested upgrading the ignition to the original points, I will throw in my two cents as well. The 4GC carburetor has several circuits. If the engine runs well at 45 MPH it is running on the main metering circuit(as opposed to idle). Other than load (a hill, or rapid acceleration), the main circuit is good up to almost maximum RPM. In other words, if the carb is OK at 45 MPH, it should also be good at 100 MPG (but accelerating slowly to get there). The car should run 100 MPH on the main circuit without the use of the power circuit. I don't know what is the problem, but don't think it is the carburetor. Possibles: (1) ignition (2) fuel delivery system (fuel pump) (3) ignition (4) fuel delivery system (small leak in fuel line, not enough to see, but sucking air and restricting fuel flow) (5) ignition (6) fuel delivery system (non-functioning fuel tank vent) (7) ignition (8) fuel filter (9) did I mention ignition? Suggestion: if upgrading to a real ignition doesn't solve the issue, try borrowing a marine fuel tank for an outboard, and an electric fuel pump and connect directly to the carburetor. This would bypass any fuel delivery system issue. Once you have determined the culprit is either the ignition or the fuel delivery system, then easier to fix. Jon.
  17. The reason for the post above is to point out that often enthusiasts read that a certain vehicle used a certain type or style of carburetor. The type or style says nothing about the actual calibration inside. If a Stromberg M-3 was original to the engine, are you positive that the Stromberg M-3 you rebuilt is the correct Stromberg M-3 for the engine? Or, if you are putting the Stromberg M-3 on a different than original application, you need to determine the correct calibration. Then, if the Stromberg M-3 has the incorrect calibration, you need to redo the calibration. This generally means fabrication of a new main venturi. Jon.
  18. Which of these types did you get? Fuel valves You might wish to contact the Ebay seller if you are having issues. Jon.
  19. Don - some of both the Stromberg and Zenith marine carbs used brass fittings; not all of them. The carbs with brass fittings were available for marine owners that were ocean-going. Both Zenith and Stromberg also offered many marine carbs with bronze bodies. The cast iron bodies were Parkerized, which resisted corrosion until they got wet! Jon.
  20. Greg - I honestly don't know, and seemingly, neither does Google I don't think so, but would be happy if someone familiar with marine safely law were to chime into the conversation. I have marine catalogues from both Stromberg and Zenith from the 1930's. While both state that their marine carburetors are designed with marine safety in mind, there is no mention of the Coast Guard in either book. And lots of larger marine engines from about 1929 to about 1950 were equipped with the Holley DD series carburetor (a.k.a. toilet bowl). These things leaked in the box before being placed on an engine! Schebler was still manufacturing the model D carb into the early 1930's, and Schebler's concept of a choke to enrich the mixture was a "push button" on the top of the carburetor bowl, which, when pressed, would move the float such that the fuel valve no longer seated, and fuel went everywhere! While I have nothing in writing, I have been told that the Coast Guard required marine engines on the Great Lakes from the 1950's with the Carter type YH (horizontal or sidedraft) carburetors to place a device on the air intake which would funnel all leaks back to the intake manifold. Commonly known as a drip tube. This is the earliest mention of Coast Guard intervention with carburetors of which I am aware. The tube is connected to the hole in the air intake, makes a loop (for volume) and then connected on the other end to manifold vacuum. Any leakage when the engine was turned off would drip into the drip tube, be stored until the engine was cranked for starting, and then be sucked into the intake manifold. Again, if someone versed in Coast Guard regulations history could chime in, I would be appreciative. As far as the Detroit Lubricator Company is concerned: Detroit Lubricator (to my knowledge) had no retail division; thus they printed no catalogues such as those printed by Stromberg and Zenith. What records I can find suggest Detroit was used almost exclusively on passenger vehicles, and a very few trucks. Jon.
  21. Rusty - interesting thought on the altitude. Carburetors require calibration changes with large altitude changes (how large depends on the design of the carbuetor). As to the speed (RPM) variation required for passenger vehicles), the early ('teens and 'twenties) Packard marine engines used Zenith type L carbs. The type L carbs were used on dozens of trucks, and several passenger vehicles. One thought I had was some of the Detroit Lubricators used by Packard had the "glow plug" fuelizer. At this point in time, really doesn't matter, except for my understanding. Both are excellent carburetors when professionally rebuilt, although I prefer the Zenith as it does not have the air valve used by the pre-1929 Detroit Lubricators. Jon.
  22. carbking

    Drainback valve

    The Carter type BBR carburetor DTE2 was used on certain Dodge trucks from 1949 through 1954. Horizontal fuel inlet valves were quite common. Probably the most well-known example would be the Stromberg 97 (correct name Stromberg EE-1). Jon.
  23. From about 1905 through 1932, with the exception of a 4 month flirtation with Johnson, Packard used Detroit Lubricator carburetors on their passenger engines. However, Packard marine engines, beginning in about 1919 through ??? (my records show 1948) used Zenith carburetors. Also, while it is quite difficult to compare the Detroit Lubricator (air valve design) air flow to the Zenith (plain tube design); it appears that the Zenith would flow more air. Anyone have any information as to why the two different carburetor companies were used, instead of using only one company? Jon.
  24. In my carburetor database, I have 447 listings for a Stromberg M-3; from a 175 CID Saxon to a 1062 CID Buckeye. Externally, they appear virtually identical. Internally, they are quite different. Jon.
  25. Generally speaking, a dry LEATHER accelerator pump may be rejuvenated by simply adding a few drops of light machine oil. Jon.