carbking

It's correct name is "choke diaphragm connector rod" and Chrysler used more than one. To be sure you get the correct one, you will need to determine the identification number of your carburetor and check the bill-of-material; and do the same if you find a donor carburetor. Jon

For sale - two volume set (reprint by Faxon) of the Final Edition of the Chrysler Master Parts List for all models prior to 1934. Like new condition. I bought them new for information on the Penberthy carburetors used by Chrysler, only to find none! Not my first wild goose chase. Anyway, I don't need them. $60. for the pair to include postage in the USA. One pair only. MasterCard or VISA, no paypal. PM or telephone 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Turn off the ignition and coast to a stop! Jon

Mine are "sorted" mechanically, cosmetically - no. Personally, I couldn't paint a barn and have it look decent, let alone a car. I know, wrong forum, but two of the three are extensively modified mechanically. Jon

Ken - the problem is probably not fuel, but air. Call me sometime, and we can discuss. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

They are not guides, they are dust "seals". There are several different sizes. Lots of commercially rebuilt carbs are missing them. They are brass because those of fiber will stick to the metering rod, and are sufficiently light in mass to lift with the rod. If rebuilding, I would install them; but I would not worry if they are not present. If you buy your rebuilding kit from us, ask about other parts at the same time; we generally have them for post WWII carburetors, and lots for pre-WWII carbs as well. Jon

Brian - the pictured carb appears to be a Schebler model L. Checking the Schebler factory literature: the 1911 catalog shows models D, E, F, H, and L. The next catalog I have is 1914, which does list the Model R, and shows it as a replacement for the 1911 Buick. Jon

A few comments: (1) Carter suggested initial setting for the idle adjustment is 1 turn from lightly seated. (2) Carter suggested initial setting for the high speed (assuming you have a BB-1 with the high speed adjustment) is 2 1/2 turns from lightly seated. (3) (Opinion) The LARGEST engine for which Carter suggested the LARGEST BB-1 ever made was 319 CID. We have done testing comparing other somewhat larger carbs on the 310 CID and 319 CID that Carter lists, and the somewhat larger carburetors run MUCH better. The largest engine for which we will sell a BB-1 is 285 CID! My data suggests your engine is a 478 CID. Jon

The model G 1911 Buick was factory equipped with a Schebler type D carburetor, in my opinion superior to the Master for all conditions except all out racing. To my knowledge no parts are available. Brian - do you have any original documentation on the model 33 using a Schebler R? I have nothing in my Schebler literature suggesting this. I show the Schebler model D in 1911, which was replaced by the model L in 1912. The first record I have of a Schebler R was in 1913 on a Marathon. Jon

If there is room to do so, double nut the studs, and remove them. This will reduce some of the resistance to the carb coming off. Jon.

Take the choke tube loose from the manifold FIRST! I used to keep a couple of dull pocket knives for the purpose of removing glued pieces. A blade can be inserted between the manifold and carb on opposite sides to get a foothold for the bars mentioned by Oldtech. (Dad used to say my pocket knives were dull for a different reason ) Jon

Marine Jon

If you recheck the listings, you will find the pictured carb was used on both Hudson and Nash. Jon

If it is from either a Nash or Hudson, it will be a Carter, not a Rochester. Look for a triangular brass tag under one of the airhorn to bowl screws (you might get lucky!). If no tag, remove the dust cover up on the top, and read the number on either of the metering rods, and call with that number. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

If you still have the tag on the carburetor a kit is easy. If you don't have the tag, take off the dust cover, read the number on one of the metering rods, and call 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). A kit is still easy. Jon

Yes Jon

The toaster oven is for baking carburetors ONLY; no brownies! Watch the local garage sales. Jon

Yes on the fire, and don't soak it in anything if you are going to use the toaster oven. Jon

If it is coming out of either hole, probably one of the following: (1) Defective float (2) Improper float adjustment (3) Universal one-size-fits-all-is-also-incorrect-for-all fuel valve (4) Cracked housing (very unlikely) (5) Too much fuel pressure (new production pump from a country that will not be named, or an electric pump) If it worked fine until recently best guess would be a defective float. Brass floats develop pin holes, float floats become heavy if the outer seal is damaged, or used with ethanol, new production brass floats have solder that is incompatible with ethanol). Jon

Just read the rest of your post. If you opt to ignore either of my methods, and drill from the bottom as you suggested. IF YOU VALUE YOUR CAR DO NOT USE JB WELD TO PATCH! tap the hole for a small machine screw, and install the machine screw with a fiber washer. Jon

(1) Totally disassemble the bowl removal parts (jets, power valve, etc.) (2) Acquire an ELECTRIC toaster large enough to contain the bowl plus a shallow pan with ridges on all four sides. * (3) Place the bowl upside down on the pan (4) Insert the pan with bowl in the ELECTRIC toaster oven. * (5) Bake at 350 degrees F for about 5 minutes (6) Remove the pan and the bowl (7) Look for the check ball in the pan (8) If the check ball has not yet fallen out, hold the bowl upside down (wear good leather gloves, the bowl is hot), and strike the bowl at the pump cylinder from underneath (strike upward) with a plastic hammer. If no positiveresults repeat. The above has worked for me maybe 95 percent of the time. If the above does NOT work, method number 2 always will, but is a pain in a certain anatomy part, plus being messy. (1) Locate the pump cylinder fill hole in the floor of the bowl. (2) Fabricate a bracket to hold a tube that the lower end will fit inside the hole and the upper end with the bracket may be secured to the bowl using 3 (or more) of the threaded airhorn screw holes. (3) Tap the top of the tube to hold a grease zert, install the grease zert in the top of the tube. (4) IMPORTANT! Locate the plug covering the access for originally drilling the hole from the bowl fill to the bottom of the pump well. This plug will be located on the underside of the bowl, and generally was a lead ball driven into the bowl. (5) Fabicate wooden "jaws" for your vise, and position the bowl in the vise such that one of the wooden jaws applies pressure to the plug. (6) Use a grease gun, and apply grease to the grease zert. While messy, this method is much safer than using air pressure. When the pressure of the grease reaches the ball, and it will; the ball will dislodge and stick to the grease. It will not fly up and strike you in the eye like using compressed air can do. (7) Remove the bracket, and save for the next carb you do (8) Clean up the grease, and you may proceed with the rebuilt (hope you bought your rebuilding kit from me ) * Don't even think about considering the possibility of using a gas-fired oven!!!!! Jon

Wayne - thanks for the comparison, Stan was great. There was another one some 40 or 50 years ago, whom some of the older members here might remember, Jim Roe in Seattle. I believe Jim and Stan were contemporaries. But too many cigarettes and Jim passed way before his time. I miss him, he was one of my two mentors in the carburetor business. I started with just rebuilding carburetors, and he was a great mentor. There just weren't any parts. So I started supplying repair kits, and slowly the rebuilding kits business took over the rebuilding business (for me). Jon

In a different lifetime, when I had more time on my hands, I have reproduced brass individual carburetors. It was EXTREMELY COSTLY, but both were for exceptionally scarce vehicles, and the customers didn't object to the cost. In todays world, with 3d printing (can brass be 3d printed), I don't know what the costs would be; but a bunch more than just reproducing an idle tube. Jon

Ed mentioned calibrations. Saying "EE-3" is a wee bit more informative than saying "red car", but not much more! Stromberg built 125 DIFFERENT type EE-3 carburetors! These were built with 4 different internal venturii sizes: 1 1/8, 1 3/16, 1 5/16, and 1 3/8. While the DD-3 used on Chrysler came with a 1 1/8 venturi, Stromberg tweaked the diameter on the Chrysler EE-3 to 1 3/16. And the Pierce analogy given by Ed is a good one; as Pierce also used a 1 3/16 venturi. Of all the EE-3 carbs, the Pierce ones are the easiest to find, AND the least expensive. One really wants to start with something that is close to the correct calibration. If one has the proper venturi; main metering jets, main discharge jets, idle tubes, economiser valves, and air bleeds are replaceable, and available for the EE-3. And while Ed's 5-gas is a wonderful tool (most of us don't have one), IF one builds the carb to the original Stromberg engineering specs like it went don't the assembly line in 1933, it should be calibrated sufficiently well for normal adjustment. Jon

Ed - I understood that. My comment was that the carburetor should be done by someone skilled in antique carburetor restoration; but the cost would be for a rebuild, NOT a restoration. As you are aware, the DD-3 and DDR-3 both really need to be done by someone who understands the carbs. Whether the service person would do a rebuild or a restoration would be between the customer and the shop. 45 years ago, we offered BOTH services for about 1 week! During that week, I took in a half dozen carburetors for a "mechanical but not cosmetic" rebuild. I finished the "rebuild" and even though the carb was perfectly clean, I was ashamed to send it out looking like a rebuild. I quickly ended the "rebuild" service, and did mechanical and cosmetic restoration on the half dozen that I had taken in FOR THE SAME PRICE. Lost money on them all, but wasn't ashamed that they came from my shop. Jon