carbking

Craig - if your carburetor is from a 1928 Buick and is a Marvel, we need the following information: The "10" number on the cast iron piece 10/103 is a Standard 10/105 is a Master Each could have a brass lower casting, or a die-cast (zinc alloy) lower casting FOUR DIFFERENT KITS, one year Buick! You can see why we like to talk to folks via telephone! Typically, our kits for Marvel carburetors contain: a complete gasket set including the mounting gasket, a new fuel valve (a.k.a. needle and seat), a new air valve spring (the CORRECT one), the pontoon portion of the float (you reuse your old float arm), and the screws that hold the carburetor together. The new float pontoon is machined from the modern closed cellular foam. Check your messages for pricing. Jon

The bottom picture on the left titled (WA1-2013-s) is correct for your carb. Note the top picture is labeled (WGD-2231-s). The WGD is a two-barrel carb. This link to my website is a link to the original Carter service documentation: WA-1 service document Jon

The bottom picture on the left titled (WA1-2013-s) is correct for your carb. Note the top picture is labeled (WGD-2231-s). The WGD is a two-barrel carb. Jon

Carter does not specify the fuel level, only the float setting. The float setting should be 1/2 inch if 2009s, or 7/16 inch if 2009sa. A possible issue might be the diameter of the fuel valve seat orifice, which should not exceed 0.081 inch. Have seen many kits where a common fuel valve with too large an orifice is used, thus causing the bowl fuel level to be too high, even when the float is set correctly. Fuel pressure can also be an issue; especially if a new non-USA fuel pump has been installed. Jon

50 plus years ago, when I was still in college, and took a marketing class; the instructor suggested that if any of us were to ever start our own business, name it a name that customers would easy remember and identify with the product. So, a shop doing carburetors??? How about "The Carburetor Shop"??? The only problem? I think 49 others took the same class!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Over the decades,we have sold product to "The Carburetor Shop" in maybe 15 different states! My "The Carburetor Shop" is located in Missouri. (Noted in my signature block). Jon

All carburetor kits are not created equal. Jon

I appreciate it. Before doing the picture, remove the tag, take it into the house and hold the BACK side up to a mirror. Try to read the tag in the mirror. If you still cannot read it, send picture of the tag, and both sides of the carburetor. There are folks out there that would like to have your carburetor. Look on the throttle body (cast iron) for some letters and a number. AA-2 = 1937 AAV-2 = 1938 Jon

Cannot tell for sure from the picture; but the carb is either a 1937 or 1938 (missing pieces). Jon

The metal link to which the metering rod is attached protrudes through a hole in the bowl cover. At the bottom of the link there is a hole, to which is attached a vacuum piston. Under the piston is a tensioned spring. When the engine is off, the spring holds the metering rod in the up position. When the engine starts, vacuum overcomes the spring tension and pulls the metering rod down. The metering rod is "stepped" allowing different calibrations for different values of engine vacuum. The metal tab you mention is an "override" in case the vacuum piston sticks (rare) or the spring breaks (even rarer). As the spring is tensioned, and loses its tension over time, it should ALWAYS be replaced when rebuilding the carburetor. The correct springs are contained in the better rebuilding kits. A weak spring will cause the engine to run lean, once it is on the main metering circuit. Jon

Looks like a typical Schebler Model R carburetor. Schebler made them in 4 different sizes, and hundreds of different versions (I have 509 different listings in my database). I am unaware of any identification numbers on the carbs, but then I have not studied them. I have more than a dozen, all unidentified. Jon

Not quite. Currently 6~8 weeks. Yes, each one is made when an order is received. We have 128 different Marvel carburetors listed, for which there are 61 different kits. It is very simply NOT economically feasible to mass reproduce fuel valves (very few are used in more than 1 kit), and even worse for the downdraft carbs are the accelerator pumps. We average 40~50 Marvel kits annually (mostly thanks to the folks on this forum). By far, our best selling Marvel kit is for the 1926~1928 Standard Buick (we average 6 annually). Jon

Pretty much true for all tripowers on a V-8, violation of the laws of physics; but they look pretty. On the later Pontiacs, Pontiac paid Carter for a factory "sabotage" so the 4-barrel engine would not outrun the more expensive tripower engine. Jon

1939 BXO-26 Studebaker number 192466 1940 BXO-26 Studebaker number 198466 Factory service replacement for both is BXOV-26 Studebaker number 380858 I have two of the 198466 and three of the 380858, sold out of 192466. The BXOV-26 is a superior design to the BXO-26 Jon

That would be 380858 which was superseded by 520780, which is a superior design. Jon

Pretty car, but another 2 barrel carb magically turned into a 4 barrel??? Jon

As Lee mentioned above, if the throttle positioner screw is too far in (throttle plates open too wide at idle), there will be insufficient signal to allow the idle circuit to work as designed. I don't own a 12 cylinder Lincoln (but have been around a few carbs ). Holley suggests setting the idle mixture screws at 3/4 turn each from lightly seated (a freshly rebuilt engine or a worn out engine will require more opening); start the engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then set the throttle positioner screw to give the desired idle speed (Holley gives no spec for idle speed). Now try adjusting the idle mixture screws. Turning them in SHOULD stall the engine. If the engine is in good operating condition, you should end up with the idle mixture screws around 3/4 turn. A freshly rebuilt engine, maybe 1 full turn. If the engine is so worn it uses more oil than gasoline, you might need to go between 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screws. This is assuming factory issued idle mixture screws with the short taper. If replacement long taper screws have been substituted, then the adjustments will be more turns. Vacuum leaks may be chased using an UNLIT propane torch. Acquire one of the bench tank holders so there is no danger of the tank upsetting. Acquire 10 feet or so (or whatever is necessary) 3/16 inch vacuum hose, and a 6 inch piece of 1/8 inch steel tubing. Neck down the nozzle on the propane tank to the 3/16 inch hose. Attach the steel tubing to the other end of the hose. Start the engine. Now crack the propane control so there is propane, but not a lot. Use the steel tubing as a wand to pinpoint the leak. Try adjusting the carburetor as in paragraph 3 before you start looking for vacuum leaks. This is the least messy method of which I know. Jon

David - I no longer do any custom rebuilds, but thank you for the vote of confidence. Try Carburetor Specialists, in Alpharetta, GA. 678-393-1501 I have been sending folks to them for the last 9 months or so. To date, no one has called me back dissatisfied. Jon

Paul - THANK YOU! That is exactly what I needed to hear. The kit was sold as not dangerous to use, but the manual is scary! Of course, with legal obligations, they have to cover all bases. I have no interest in plating anything except using the copy cad. Waiting for good weather, and will use the kit outdoors, with gloves, long sleeve shirt, and a full face mask. Should be enough. Again, thanks. Jon

I have records on Kelsey from 1920 through 1924. 1921 used a Falls X9000 engine 1922 used a Waukesha 6C engine 1923~24 used a Lycoming CF engine. I have no records on a Spartan. New Way made stationary engines Lots of vehicles used the Holley H, but the only meaningful documentation I have found is on the New Way site. Jon

The earliest Kelsey in my database is 1920. i am fairly confident the pictured carburetor is a Holley model H. There is a good download on the New Way website. Jon

Graham - over the years, we have shipped a lot of carbs/carb parts to various hotels in the Hershey Pennsylvania area. Lots of folks which attended Hershey who take stuff back in their baggage. Do not know if that is even possible these days, but it might be an avenue for you; if you, or any friends were to attend Hershey (or other locations in the USA). Hopefully, your original will turn up. Jon

The Buick 3088s is slightly larger than the AFB's used by Studebaker (625 vs 600). So it is not too large in airflow, but the calibrations are totally wrong. An AFB that is fairly common here in the USA, and has calibrations that are close enougth to work on the Studebaker higher compression engine would either a 3300s or a 3326s from a Pontiac. Studebaker AFB's are not at all common here in the USA. We have sold quite a few of the 3300s/3326s to Studebaker folks that drove their cars, and didn't care about matching numbers. So if you are set on a four barrel, the Pontiac carb might be an inexpensive alternative for you. If you want to use the Buick carb, you will need to change: primary jets, step-up rods, and the auxiliary air valve. While you are at it, the secondary jets should also be changed, but not as critical as the other parts. I have no record of Studebaker using a WW on the 289; but on a low-compression engine, would probably run well. Jon

Updated 26 March - acquired the 6D1R. Updated list: Numbered 257s, 262s, 586s, 638s, 640s, 641s, 2035s, 2212s, 3377s, 4403s Coded 4A1, 6A1, 6B1, 6B2, 6C1, 6C2, 6D1, 6F1, 6J2, 6J3, 6K2, 6K3, 6N1 Surely someone has some of these squirreled away. Will buy, trade for, whatever; and I have some pretty good trade bait! Started getting some pictures on the article: BB-1 article Jon

The pictured unit APPEARS to be one of the imitation Zenith carbs, coming from an unknown source. If true, to my knowledge there is zero documentation as to settings, so basically initial setting is by guesstimate. If I am wrong about the origin, and there is a name/identification anywhere on the unit so it may be identified, then I can probably supply better suggestions. Jon

I am curious about this carburetor with only 1 adjustment screw. Jon