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Everything posted by carbking

  1. carbking

    Engine id.

    I sold him the carburetors maybe 25 years ago. He was obsessed with multiple carbs. I have no idea where he found the intakes, but over the years we did a complete multiple set-up (he supplied the intake) for a Packard straight 8, one for a big Chrysler 6, and I think two of the Buicks. All ran extremely well for him. Sorry to hear of his passing. He was a true gentleman. As to the dual carbs: the first criteria is to make sure you have good compression. The Carter carbs use engine vacuum to control the metering. An engine with one or two really weak cylinders might have uneven vacuum to the two carbs, resulting in uneven metering. So, assuming the fuel is fresh, the first item would be a compression test. Don't throw rocks at the carbs until after you have done some testing. If it should turn out that you need to rebuild the carbs, I can furnish you with rebuilding kits. Jon.
  2. It sounds as if the fuel valve is stuck in the fuel valve seat. If you shipped the carburetor to the rebuilder, rather than delivered it in person I would test for this. Simply remove the fuel line from the carburetor, and using a source of compressed air, attempt to blow compressed air into the fuel inlet. If this is the issue, once unstuck, you should be good to go. Some of the shipping personnel are wannabee NFL punters Jon.
  3. The Stromberg records show the M-7 was used mostly on tractors and boats. Many different applications. There is also one reference to a use by American LaFrance. If it is for sale, I would have an interest, as I do not have samples of the various components for building repair kits. And if you think this one is big, Stromberg also made an M-9. This particular M-7 was sold to the Buffalo Gas Engine Company. Jon.
  4. carbking

    Engine id.

    Whether to rebuild what you have or go back to stock would be a personal thing. The picture shows a very well set-up aftermarket dual set-up. Before making any decision, I would suggest finding out WHY the engine is not running as well as you wish. In order: compression test, ignition test, and if both are good then check the adjustment of the carburetors. Also, if the gasoline in the tank is more than a couple of months old, you might hook up an auxiliary fuel tank with fresh gasoline. You said the owner had passed a couple of years ago. Two year old gasoline will barely burn in a low compression tractor engine, let alone a car. If the issue DOES turn out to be carbs, then you can make your decision. I think you will have no trouble at all in selling the set-up you have, should you desire to go back to original. Remember that if the set-up you currently have is not the issue, then replacing it with original would not solve the issue, just cost money. Testing is the key. EDIT: just remembered, was the first name of the owner who passed Pete? Jon.
  5. Picture: Jon
  6. Some are made from brass, others from steel. Some are left natural, others are flash-chromed. Jon.
  7. I would guess earlier; but as to exact application, no guess. I have 128 different listing for Holley Bros prior to 1913. About 1913, the brochures starting referring to the "New Holley". Jon.
  8. A picture would be useful. I do not know the meaning of a Stromberg Continental carburetor. According to the Stromberg records, Lincoln used the Stromberg type EE-1 on the Lincoln thru mid-1937. According to the Holley records, Lincoln started using a Holley type AA-1 mid-way thru 1937 on the Zephyr and continued with the 1938 Zephyr. According to the Stromberg records, Lincoln used a Stromberg type EE-22 on the K model Lincoln in 1938. All of the above types, in different configurations, were used on other makes of cars. Jon.
  9. Holley Brothers (George and Earl), forerunner of Holley Carburetor, produced quite a few carburetors for many early cars, from about 1904. While I have a couple of sales brochures, I have yet to find a catalog of these units. The earliest Holley catalogs I have found begin in the 1930's. Jon
  10. That is the choke housing. Appears to have been previously broken, and a brass repair fitting inserted. Originally, the housing was zinc alloy without the fitting. It may be possible for a good machine shop to remove the existing repair fitting, and machine and install a new one; but you will need to remove the choke housing from the carburetor. I cannot read the number on the carb. It might be easier to replace the choke housing with another from the exact same numbered carburetor. Jon.
  11. Not that it will help your situation, other than possibly a good laugh: I have an early John Deere that is hand cranked. This one is early enough, Deere hadn't figured out compression release petcocks were a good idea. When I was much younger, I could crank it. Now it is parked facing downhill on a good grade! Jon.
  12. This is probably going to be a less than popular opinion, but I would highly suggest pulling the manifold, driving out the old tube, and inserting a new one (see my earlier post). At some time, you are going to want that engine to perform as it is capable of performing; and it will NEVER do that with the clone. If you weld, tap, whatever, to the manifold now as a band-aid; then you will have to undo the band-aid when you decide to fix it right. Even if you temporarily decide to leave the clone on the engine; once you have the manifold tube sealing the exhaust, the issue will be solved, without the need of capping either end. Hot air moves through the tube because of vacuum being supplied to one end of the tube from the choke portion of the carburetor. If the clone has an electric choke, manual choke, or no choke; then there would be no connection to the tube. Even if the new tube is left open at both ends, there will be no exhaust leak if the outer circumferance of the tube is sealed in the heat passage. Jon.
  13. Pete - its on the way. Delay was caused by the accelerator pump bin being empty. Had to fabricate a new accelerator pump. Monday or Tuesday. Sorry. Jon.
  14. In the case of updraft carburetors, it was quite common to place the inlet fuel valve in the bottom of the bowl. Since updraft carburetors were lower than the fuel supply system; leakage back to the tank was impossible. Most downdraft carburetors, as Paul mentioned above, have the fuel inlet valve above the fuel level in the bowl, either in the airhorn (top casting) or the side of the bowl, as is the case with the OP's carburetor. The most notable exception is the Rochester Quadrajet, which has a front inlet, and the fuel valve in the bottom of the bowl. When the carburetor was first designed in 1965, a balance type fuel valve was used which did not permit the bowl leaking back. Unfortunately, it didn't seal very well either. When Rochester eliminated the "umbrella" fuel valve in favor of a conventional valve that would seal, the possibility of drain back became real; and Rochester FiXED the issue by designed an inlet fuel filter with an internal check valve. I believe this change was in 1967, but memory is not as good as it once was. This fuel filter with the internal valve is located between the fuel inlet fitting and the inlet fuel valve. The carburetor which was responsible for the coining of the term "leak-down" was the Holley AA-1, used on millions of Ford products, and others, beginning in 1939. But it was not the fuel valve that leaked down; it was the power valve (a.k.a. economiser valve). The power valve in the Holley AA-1 was channeled directly into the throttle area, and if the power valve failed (generally the second backfire, and often the first), the power valve would completely drain the bowl INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Not a good thing for rings, or crankcase oil. Carburetor bowls MUST be vented in order for fuel to flow into and out of the bowl; otherwise there is a hydraulic lock. The volatility of today's fuel is much greater than gasoline of yesteryear. Couple that with the heat built up in the engine block during running, and one has evaporation through the bowl vent. Different engine styles and different carburetors are susceptible to this evaporation at different rates. For instance Carter AFB carbs, which are some of my personal favorite carbs, are among the worst at evaporation due to the large aluminum fuel bowl. I had to install a full time electric pump on my F-100 with the 390 2x4. This after my curiosity got the better of me one summer day, and I pulled off an airhorn after the engine had been stopped for 30 minutes. The bowl was bone-dry! Not a problem during running and I get terrific fuel economy, just a problem after the engine is turned off. Also "I" engines (I-8, I-6, I-4) have much less trouble with the evaporation issue, as the carburetor generally is not sitting directly above the engine "heat sink". With V-8 engines, Holley 2 and 4 barrel carbs with the end bowls, seem to have fewer issues (at least of the evaporation type) than other 2 and 4 barrels, because of the air gap between the engine block and the carburetor bowl(s). The problem, like others facing our hobby, is not going away; we simply have to recognize the problem, and provide a work-around. Jon.
  15. In order: Compression test Ignition test (firing voltages at the plugs - use a clamp on voltmeter. If you don't own one, find a friendly utility company lineman) Fuel delivery system test Carburetor adjustment Since it has electronics added, would suggest replacing these with conventional points and condenser for a test before the compression test. And did you upgrade to an alternator when you downgraded to the electronics? Electronics DEMAND more stable voltage than a generator is capable of providing. "Carburetor issues" change over the years. Used to be number one carburetor problem was the distributor needed a tune-up. That changed in the 1980's to issues with ethanol. About 10 years ago the primary carburetor problem is electronic conversion. Jon.
  16. Very common with today's gasoline. We get about 5 calls daily on this subject: Gas evaporation The only way gasoline is going to drain back to the tank from that carburetor is if you park the car on its side, and that is kind of hard on the paint job! Take the money you were going to waste on the valve, and surprise your wife by taking her to dinner. The results will be better! Jon.
  17. Lamar - thank you for the interest. No, I will not be bringing them to Hershey. The Hershey trip was long 30 years ago when I was a young whippersnapper and set up as a vendor. I have no desire to fight it now. As requested, I as posting pictures. Pictures 1 and 2 are of the stack of these cabinets. I am not going to get them out until I have sales. This stack is approximately 12 feet tall. You can gauge this by the stairsteps and second story in my shop. Picture 3 is a small cabinet with 1 large drawer and 2 small drawers. Picture 4 is the inside of one of the small drawer of the same cabinet. Picture 5 is the inside of large drawer of the same cabinet. Picture 6 is again of the small cabinet, showing how additional drawers and cases lock together for stacking. Picture 7 shows two of the large cabinets that I am using and will not be selling at this time. These are stacked about 8 feet tall. One is in original condition, the other I refinished. Sharp-eyed viewers will notice an original Stromberg cabinet on the top of the stack in picture 2, and a Marvel drawer that is a part of a Standard Hygrade carbinet to the upper right in picture 2. I have more cabinets other than just the Carter that I will be selling; but I have many more of the Carter than anything else. Jon. Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7
  18. Lee - the identification is visible in the bottom picture just above the word "corp" on the strengthening vane; but I cannot read it. Jon.
  19. Not exactly sure the format used by Buick on this application. Years ago, we replaced hundreds of these things on Pontiac, Cadillac, and Oldsmobile tripower manifolds. In general, there was a steel tube which was pressed into the heat crossover in the intake manifold. Inside the steel tube was a piece of twisted steel ribbon (think very early barb wire fencing) that was used as a delay to slow the passage of the air, assuring that the air would be properly heated. The tubes simply rusted/corroded until they developed holes. Used to take 30~35 years. We purchased stainless steel tubing to replace the steel (we are out of this tubing, and there were several different non-standard diameters). The procedure, with the manifold off of the engine, was to drive out the remains of the old tube, fabricate a new twisted steel ribbon, cut the correct diameter stainless tube to the correct length, and drive it into the manifold. Once the tube was driven into place, we added the twisted ribbon. For an insertion tool, we chucked a bolt with a greater diameter than the tube into our lathe; turned about a 1/4 inch of the end slightly less than the INNER diameter of the tube (it could be inserted into the end of the tube). This procedure worked well. One other issue with the Cadillacs only. Every Cadillac manifold was cracked on the driver's side where the tube had been inserted; which meant a trip to the welding shop to eliminate the exhaust leak before inserting the new tube. Later Pontiac manifolds had a plate with an attached tube loop that bolted into the exhaust crossover from the top of the manifold. These have been reproduced, and are readily available. Jon.
  20. Viper - the carb pictured on your 1936 is obviously not original; it is a later model. Cannot tell exactly which one, as I am unable to read the identification number. It is later than 1938. The BBR series (opinion) graduated from horrible to fair with the 1939 models. Still nowhere close to the other Carter series, or the Stromberg. As to the article in Hemmings; the author interviewed me many years ago before writing the article. We spoke ONLY of the BB-1 updraft carbs, of which I am a big fan. As updraft carbs go, I place them behind only the Stromberg SF/SFM series, and the Zenith 63/263 series (both the Stromberg and Zenith came out about the same time as the BB-1). Letter grade = A. The author then added the BBR downdraft information to the article. Note the author placed our website/telephone number in his article. I told him at the time I would try to help with questions. As to why so many BBR's on on early Dodges, guessing there are two reasons: (1) Dodge trucks used the BBR series (2) Commercial rebuilders grouped the Plymouth BBR with the Dodge Truck BBR and also stated it could be used on the Dodge passenger. They also listed the Stromberg, but the Stromberg was ALWAYS more expensive, and people being what they are, cheaper won out. All of the 1933~1938 Plymouth BBR carbs were superseded in 1939 with the Carter 439s. These were requested from Carter by Plymouth and sold through Plymouth dealerships as factory replacement units. I have personally sold many of these to customers wishing to be as original as possible (Plymouth). These carbs did work, although never as well as either the Stromberg or the Carter W-1. For those that are happy with their BBR's - great. But for those who are less than happy, try one of the Strombergs, or the Chevrolet W-1's. Have been suggesting/selling the Chevrolet W-1's for years to MoPar folks, and to date, NO bad feedback from those who have tried one. In fact, quite the opposite from everyone who has offered feedback. One other thing, the identification service we offer has been modified from the terms in the article - PLEASE CALL BEFORE SENDING THE CARBURETOR! Jon.
  21. Selling Carter metal carburetor parts cabinets from the 1930's. ALL CABINETS ARE EMPTY! These cabinets are almost 100 years old, so there is some rust, some dirt, possibly some oil stains, and some have some minor dings. In other words, they are not new! These were available as a large cabinet (24 inches wide, by 12 inches deep), and a small cabinet (16 inches wide, 12 inches deep) SEE PICTURES BELOW. A basic cabinet was offered, and then additional drawers could be added. The drawers interlock, so the cabinet could be built higher as needed. In general, the large cabinets would be acquired by carburetor rebuilding shops, or Carter distributors; with the smaller cabinets being acquired by car dealers, garages, etc. Prices: A large base, with 1 tall drawer and 4 short drawers - $150. Additional tall drawers - $30. Additional short drawers - $20. A small tall drawer and 3 short drawers assembly - $60. Additional short drawers - $15. Have only a few of the large (24 inch cabinets). Have a truck load of the smaller cabinets. Don't really want to ship these things. Would prefer you visit the world headquarters of The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, Missouri (see Jefferson City for closest city of any size). Large cabinet Small cabinet Payment: will reluctantly accept paypal, but prefer VISA/MasterCard (less costly) Jon.
  22. I have not noticed a post stating the position of the idle mixture control screws in the carburetor. Would suggest you at least try the following: (1) Gently turn the each screw clockwise (in) until it bottoms, counting the exact number of turns (you can then return to this setting if the adjustment does not help). (2) Now turn each screw counterclockwise (out) 3/4 of a turn. (3) Start the engine and run at a fast idle. (4) Once the engine is at running temperature, adjust the idle RPM using the throttle positioner screw. 3/4 turn may not be quite enough, but I would not exceed one turn unless the engine is totally worn out and burning more oil than fuel. Theory: The idle screws in this carburetor are of the "short taper" variety. As a general rule, the short taper screws have an adjustment range of from 0 to 1 1/4 turns. In 1968, smog emission control became the law of the land. Due to more stringent idle requirements, most idle mixture screws were changed to a "long taper". The smaller delta when turning the screw allowed for much more precise idle control, thus emissions. The general range for the long taper screws is about 1 turn to 3 1/2 turns. Folks have have been accustomed to adjusting the newer carburetors get the older carburetors too rich; thus the rolling idle and fouled plugs. Generally, rich running is ignition, which you have been addressing; however, sometimes there are multiple issues. Jon.
  23. Either an original Carter AFB or an original Rochester 4GC is going to be easier to tune, and run significantly better than the Chevrolet carburetor you are currently using. As others have mentioned, you will see very little if any difference from the 4GC to the original AFB; but a huge difference from what you currently are running. Jon.
  24. Pete - I have long been of the opinion that when items come to market, there are two opposing views of the item: (1) the engineering view that the item should be of the highest quality, hang the cost (2) the accounting view that the item should cost at little as possible, hang the quality Given the above, the BBR was an "accountant's carburetor", while the W series were "engineer's carburetors". As far as your other comments about Carter, I have a TQ on my GTO, and two AFB's on my shop truck! Jon.
  25. There still seems to be confusion over the terminology updraft/downdraft. The term applies to the direction the fuel/air mix is moving when it exits the carburetor and enters the intake manifold. Thus an updraft carb hangs beneath the manifold, and the air/fuel mix enters the manifold going up. The downdraft carb sits on top of the manifold with the air/fuel mix going down (this, by the way is true of the 1949~1951 Lincoln/Mercury, and the 1949~1950 Oldsmobile that is often erroneously called a "backdraft"). And of course, there is also the sidedraft carburetor. Detroit Lubricator made both updraft and downdraft carburetors. The ones use by Cadillac were updraft. Downdrafts were used by Ford in 1932~1933. (Opinion) the Detroit Lubricator carbs provide excellent carburetion, for a time (maybe 15k~25k miles). When properly restored, they are again excellent carburetors for a time. The biggest issue with the Detroit Lubricator is generally the lack of understanding by the tuner/mechanic. The two major mechanical issues with the Detroit Lubricator is the wear that occurs in the groove of the aspirator valve and the associated wear on the "fingers" of the vanes; and the disintegration of the vane support box (zinc alloy "pot metal"). At the first rebuild, the vane box should be replaced with one milled from aluminum or brass. At each rebuild, the wear on the fingers should be evaluated, and if over a couple of thousands, either repaired using "metal-spray" or replaced. The groove in the aspirator valve should be inspected for "flats" on the upper edge of the groove where the fingers are inserted. The valve may be rotated at least a couple of times to change to a fresh position with no wear. Because of these issues, a number of enthusiasts have opted to place more modern carbs with greater longevity on vehicles which are driven. It was maybe 35 years ago when we were first approached to provide something other than the Detroits (or Johnsons). Our first thought was the Zenith 63 series, but the throttle arm was not useable on one side. We had some of these cast by a local retired high school shop teacher, who "inherited" the equipment when some government body determined sand casting was too dangerous for high school shop. When he passed, we lost any reasonably cost source for making these. We later suggested to a few individuals that new downdraft intakes were fabricated (by fabbing new intakes, the process was completely reversible) and modern downdraft carbs were used. We suggested the Carter type W-1 (leather accelerator pump) and at least a couple have used these successfully. Others opted for the Carter YF (diaphragm pumps, fine if daily driver or ethanol-free fuel is used). Jon.