carbking

ECCO - I am sold out of the BB-1 245s carburetors. I do have one of the Strombergs; HOWEVER: as the 245s is a factory suggested replacement, I would suggest a bit of patience; as they do turn up, and go with the 245s. If you wish to discuss this further, my office phone is 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-5 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

The 1928 Chrysler model 52 had a number of different carburetors. Early production used a Carter type RAJH-0 number 100s which was basically a "tweak" of the 1927 model. This carb was quickly replaced with Carter type RJH-08 number 112s, which was then replaced with 119s which was then replaced with 125s. All of this occurring in the 1928 model year. In 1931, the 125s was superseded by the 1931 Plymouth carburetor, Carter type RJH-08 number 210s. In 1932, the 210s was superseded by Carter type BB-1 number 245s. The Carter type BB-1 is in my top three of updraft carburetor series. The Tillotson JR series (the "R" stood for replacement) was an extremely inexpensive aftermarket unit, often sold through cut-rate auto supply houses. You mentioned Zenith. Zenith has made many different carburetors. The one most commonly sold today (because of price) by most vendors (including us) is an agricultural carburetor that has NO power circuit. There are about 12 different with different internal venturii sizes and physical throttle sizes. If the correct one is selected, and modified for the fuel delivery system being used, it will work fairly well in more or less level terrain; but the absence of a power circuit is less than desirable if there are hills to cross. There is also a Chinese knock-off (opinion - should be avoided at any price!) of this version. Zenith also made a much better version, but they are now obsolete, so finding a new one is quite difficult. Stromberg also made an excellent aftermarket carb, but like the second Zenith, more expensive than the common Zenith. The Carter BB-1 number 245s mentioned above is generally in the same price range as the better Zenith. The Carter BB-1, the better Zenith, and the Stromberg are my top 3 updraft aftermarket carburetors. But since the 245s was sold as a factory replacement, this is the one I would suggest if you go aftermarket. Should you decide to go original, then obviously the last 1928 version, the Carter type 119s would be preferable. A fully restored 119s is going to be significantly more than the 245s or the better Zenith or Stromberg, and other than being prettier, is no where near as good a carburetor. Jon

This from the original service brochure: Replacing Metering Pin The metering pin should not be tampered with unless absolutely necessary. If replacement of this pin should become necessary, it may be accomplished as follows: First-Remove the cap nut at the bottom of the rack and pinion housing. Next, turn pinion shaft slowly from right to left (facing toward the carburetor), until the bottom of the metering pin appears at the bottom of the pinion shaft housing. Continue to turn the shaft slowly in the same direction, releasing the connection to the dash control, if necessary, until the rack to which the pin is fastened drops out. The palm of the hand should be held to receive this, as the parts are very loosely assembled. The pinion 6 shaft should be retained at the exact position at which the rack is released. Install new metering pin (the way to do this will be obvious), and return the rack to its proper mesh with the pinion. Replace dash attachment (if detached); replace cap; adjust as per instructions given on opposite page. The loose assembling of the metering pin in the rack is for the purpose of providing for freedom of movement of the metering pin and in order that binding in the aspirating tube may be avoided. And it would still be a good idea to have the documentation. Jon

Both the Stromberg LB-1 and Zenith HU-4A were listed as original equipment. While I have several LB-1 parts carbs, I have never seen an HU-4A. Checked aftermarket cataloges from years 1920~1922 for replacement listings: Marvel - nothing Rayfield - M2V (although why anyone would want to put a Rayfield on any vehicle for which it was not original is beyond me). Schebler - nothing Stromberg - only the LB-1, no superseding carburetor. Zenith - only the HU-4A, no superseding carburetor. I suppose an adapter could be designed and fabricated to accomodate something else, but if it were mine I would fix the LB-1. Guessing the zinc alloy parts on your LB-1 will need to be fabricated, but once done, the LB-1 would fit, and be correctly calibrated for the engine. Jon

The short answer is "very bad, and expensive, personal experience". The long answer would be available by telephone, I don't type as well as I once did. Jon

Agree with EmTee's post except for the use of fuel stabilizer. With the experiences I have had with the stuff, Hollywood will again be covered by glaciers (there is a cliche about that) before I will even think about considering the use of a fuel stabilizer. Instead, get the engine hot, turn off the fuel and allow the engine to run out of gas. The heat from the engine and the volatility of the fuel will take care of the rest! Jon

Wayne is correct about aftermarket; this is a Marvel/Schebler type R carburetor. However, the target market was car and light truck customers who were more interested in price than in quality. Marvel/Schebler lists the type R as a "competitive" carburetor in their catalogs, and suggests that, when possible, the better quality type TU is sold instead of the type R. Jon

The number stamped on the bowl cover might get closer but agree with Mark on a general range. jon

Rayfield was one of the largest providers of early carburetors. They, along with Stromberg and Zenith, had excellent documentation, parts availability, special tools, etc. for helping customers (or garages) support their carburetors. They also spent a lot of money on advertising. But they began to fade about 1919. After that date, documentation, etc. is almost non-existant. Their carburetors were excessively complicated. A Stromberg or Zenith would provide the same or better performance and were more reliable. Jon

This thread generated an inquiry from a member with a Johnson Model A carburetor from a Reo. So have now pull all of my Johnson Model A carbs (I have 10, at least 4 of them are different), evaluated the possibility of kits, and determined we can make kits for these also if there is interest. Original Johnson documentation on the Model A carbs that is useful in identification is either completely non-existant, or at least has eluded me for the last 55 years! I have Johnson Model A carbs with casting numbers 243, 258, 269, and 320. I would like to hear from anyone who has a Johnson Model A as original equipment on their vehicle, and its casting number for my records. Please understand that I own a private company, but that this information will also be sent to the AACA library. Earlier this year, I sent 92 gigabytes of carburetor data to the library. I have since added a little, and reorganized some already sent; an update will be sent to the library in January. Jon

I have not seen a cross-reference as new as the parts you have listed. There is a parts cross-reference by type from P-1 to P-17000 for Stromberg. Above P-17000, you either have to know what it fits, or leaf through the Master Parts books (there are 7 of them, beginning in about 1929) sheets to find the number. Bendix is the parent company to both Stromberg and Zenith (similar to GM is the parent company to Chevrolet and Pontiac). I might have an interest in your acquisition, but need more pictures, and pricing. Jon

New old stock Rochester 4-barrel original equipment 4 cylinder Tempest carburetors. 7019066 1961 automatic transmission 7019079 1961 manual transmission 7023069 1963 manual transmission 7023070 1963 automatic transmission NOS (new old stock) with original coloring and original Rochester colored tag Price $860 each includes USA postage. VISA/MasterCard 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Four (4) Winfield Model M parts carburetors - $500 includes USA postage. One brass updraft Master carburetor missing bottom cap - $500 includes USA postage. One unknown 2-barrel updraft intake manifold - $100. includes USA postage. VISA/MasterCard 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Housecleaning again, found a number of castings, flame arresters, air cleaner A one time shipping charge of $20. (USA only) will be added to the total of items you purchase. Carburetor castings: BUICK 1926-1928 Standard bowl from 10-686 carburetor $35. 1931 Series 90 bowl from 10-796 carburetor $250. 1933 Series 80 bowl from 10-1514 carburetor $250. 1933 Series 50 bowl from 10-1515 carburetor $125. 1934-1934 Series 90 bowl from 10-1581 carburetor $250. 1934-1935 Series 60 bowl from 10-1578 carburetor $125. Air cleaner: "Tomato can" with filler from small Johnson model H carb $50. Flame arrester: Flame arrester with 90 degree air intake from large Schebler model S carburetor - $75. VISA, MasterCard 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

I have avoided this subject for decades, but am cleaning up a LOT of postponed projects. I have the capability of making kits for these; but need to know if there is any interest before I spend a lot of money. Kits would consist of the float, float valve, accelerator pump cup, air valve spring, bowl gasket, and flange gasket. NOT asking for pre-orders, just looking to see if there is enough demand to justify tooling for the air valve springs and bowl gaskets (I can machine the rest). Please PM with your vehicle information if interested. Jon

Looks like you have already done most of the testing. Firing voltages may be tested by the use of an oscilloscope (which most hobbyists do not own, but it is a terrific tool!); OR By the use of a clamp-on voltmeter. The probe of the voltmeter clamps over a spark plug wire. It may be carburetor time. But first, maybe someone more schooled in Ford ignition systems than I could comment on if that particular distributor requires a specific carburetor with a spark valve; and if so, does that effect the action of the pertronix? And you did not mention, but what carburetor are you using? Jon

MANY possibilities. (1) Low compression (2) Too much fuel pressure (are your 3.5 and 2.5 ACTUAL numbers from a pressure gauge, or numbers on a dial-type regulator?). (3) A pertronix without upgrading to 12 volts AND an alternator. (4) Other ignition issues. (5) Bad, or misadjusted, carburetor float (6) Other Even though I would bet (if I were a betting person) on ignition, I would start with a compression test, followed with a fuel pressure test, by inserting a fuel pressure gauge (if you haven't already) right at the carburetor. If the carburetor has the correct orifice fuel valve, it is rated at 4 1/2 psi. If compression is good and measured fuel pressure is below this figure, next would be a complete ignition test (a good starting point would be firing voltages at the plugs). If the results of the compression test, fuel pressure test, and the ignition test are all satisfactory, then time to open up the carburetor. Jon

The Carter type BB-1 is not rare, but they do sell well, as it is an excellent updraft carburetor. There were 68 different BB-1 carbs, of which the following are "universal" replacements: 245s, 245sd, BB1A, BB1D, 289s, and 289sd. These six are fully adjustable. The others have a fixed metering jet. The success folks have using them as aftermarket on earlier cars is mixed, basically due to the applicability (internal size) and adjustability (using one of the universals) of the application. Some vendors would have you believe their Chevrolet DD carb (common number is 871sc) is THE VERY BEST for your vehicle, regardless of the vehicle. And it generally isn't. Jon

Looking for a gentleman in the Calgary area by the name of Joe with a 1935 Oldsmobile. Please message, my telephone service doesn't allow international calls. Jon

If you have not found one, I have a throttle body with shaft and both valves. Throttle body is stuck. Will need patience. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time)(except holidays). Jon

Actually, it might also be Buick; the other numbers will tell the tale. Jon

The use (or non-use) of the metering jet depended on the design of the aspirator valve for the specific model. I know nothing about the new stuff. I tend to believe it is a solution without a problem. Detroit Lubricator made more than 40 different carburetors for the 4 years they were used on Packards; how many different modern ones exist? Jon

At least by August 1929. There were a few different sizes used. Jon

There probably is no stamped number on this carburetor; if there is one, it would be located on the vertical edge of the mounting flange just to the left of the left-most idle mixture screw. It is not Buick; probably Pontiac, possibly Chevrolet. Each of the carburetor boosters (there are four) have a TINY (tiny) number stamped on the arm supporting the booster. Each of the 4 numbers will be different. Acquire these numbers and call 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). I can identify it at least enough to make you a rebuilding kit from these numbers. What size engine is in your Buick? You probably do not want to use this carburetor on your Buick! And yes, the 6-1585 is in MY database. Jon

Fuel pressure is stated as 3 1/2 psi, with an absolute maximum of 4 3/4 psi (original fuels). With the volatility of modern fuels, I would think that maximum would be now be 4 psi (or less). As mentioned above, a fuel pressure gauge would confirm/deny a pressure issue. Jon