carbking

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Everything posted by carbking

  1. Check this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Fuelleak If the curb idle screw (throttle positioner screw) is screwed in such that the throttle is cracked open, then the fuel will go into the manifold rather than exiting by the throttle shaft. Jon.
  2. Just listed on Ebay 362393436384. Opening bid $450. Buy it now $650. Includes free shipping within the 48 contiguous United States Jon.
  3. 7-56 is the 40/50 carb. Rochester H was used on the Chevrolet Corvair. If the seller doesn't know the difference, run! Jon.
  4. 30DodgePanel - not arguing, I am not there, and you are. However, over a 27 year period we mailed/UPSed 423 packages to Classic Carbs at those two addresses. I have my complete sales history on archive disk, and easy to check. If you don't mind, would you ask the folks currently at 3217 East Shea if they can shed any light on the subject? As I mentioned earlier, seems I remember Larry once speaking about a Cottonwood address, but we never shipped anything to it, and I don't know the actual address. I understand those of you having rare carburetors there wishing to get them back. I can only suggest patience. If there has been a death, as rumored, these things take time. My interest is purely personal, as I consider these folks good friends. Jon.
  5. Terry - I have an updated email address for them. Just sent an email, will let you know if I receive an answer. Jon.
  6. There are/were two owners, the other is/was Larry Young. We have been selling them rebuilding kits since 1988. And I have been recommending them since we quit rebuilding because of our kit demand. They were at 3116 East Shea, and within the last couple of years moved to 3217 East Shea. We have shipped/mailed several hundred packages to the two addresses. I also would like to know what happened. Never met either in person; but have had many telephone conversations over the years. Really good people! Seems to me at one time there was also a Cottonwood address, but we never shipped to it; and that was several years ago. Last contact 16 April 2018. Jon
  7. It sounds rather difficult, those carbs do NOT grow on trees! The Carter versions are more common, but I don't have a set of those either. For a "driver" (NOT numbers matching), we have suggested for years, and set up several using two of the normal single 2 barrel carbs used on the 40/50 engines, and converting to solid linkage, rather than progressive. Both carbs run all of the time. Better driveability, more power, better fuel economy, but will lose points at a car show. If you do this, you need two exact matching carbs, but matching single 2 barrel carbs for the 40/50 series is not a difficult task. Jon.
  8. Earl - just noticed your question. The components Stromberg used do not deteriorate such as the gaskets used by both Carter (before 1958) and Rochester. On the other hand, we have spiders here in Missouri Jon.
  9. The matching carb would be Stromberg sales 380088, code 7-61. Jon.
  10. The Stromberg sales number should be on the box. The Stromberg code number (7-something) will be stamped (not raised) on the top cover of the carburetor. Jon.
  11. I don't have either one, but there is an early production, and a late production. Which front are you trying to match? Jon.
  12. There is no record in the original Stromberg prints of a BXVD-2 carburetor. If such an animal existed, the center-to-center spacing on the mounting bolts would be 2 11/16 inches. The BXVD-3 is 2 15/16 inches. I have seen some of the type numbers which are not easy to read. The actual carburetor number is STAMPED, not raised, looking straight down on the bowl cover of the carburetor. It should be a 3-something. Jon.
  13. Graphite impregnated string (old time faucet seal). Jon.
  14. Bill - there were three different carbs used by Pontiac in 1928: (1) Carter 101s, (2) Carter 109s, and (3) Marvel 10-714. The two Carters were extremely early production. I could probably check the Master Parts book and determine by serial number when the Marvel was adopted, but don't really want to spend the time to do so. Both of the Carters used an external accelerator pump, with a housing made of zinc alloy which has cracked to pieces. I haven't seen an original that was useable in the last 50 years! To use the Carter, one would have to machine a new pump housing and pump assembly from aluminum (or some other metal). The Marvel is much more common, but the entire carb is made from the same zinc alloy as the Carter pump. Plus it is a Marvel. The Borg/Warner carb was designed as a throwaway, and sold as a throwaway. To my knowledge there are no surviving prints, never have been any parts. Anything you need will have to be fabricated at your local machine shop. Any professional carburetor restorer can cut gaskets, fuel valves, etc., as needed. Expect to pay dearly to have parts machined, as Marvel/Schebler did NOT believe in S.A.E. standard sizes. Virtually anything threaded will require either having a custom tap/die made, or single-point the threads. One thread they seemed to like on needle seat threads was 3/8 x 28. I have spent a small fortune on tooling for Marvel and Schebler parts. I do have a significant amount of original Pontiac literature, should you be interested. Jon.
  15. This is one of the Borg/Warner "universal carburetors". Originally designed by Rayfield, it was produced by Marvel/Schebler after Marvel, Schebler, Rayfield, Tillotson, Johnson, Swan, and other carburetor companies were acquired by Borg/Warner. It originally came with water decals sporting the "name du jour". Of course, the water decal lasted until the first fuel leak. I have seen decals of Marvel/Schebler, Wizard, and Johnson on boxed new old stock units. I am reasonably sure there were others. The carburetors were sold through automotive companies such as Western Auto, J.C. Whitney, and Warshawski to customers too frugal to purchase a gasket set for their original carburetor. As far as I am aware, these were sold as "throw-away" carburetors. No parts were ever available. Jon.
  16. X2 on Seaform's response. Sufficiently common that I added a section on my troubleshooting article several years ago: Difficult starting after sitting a few days Jon.
  17. Quote trimacar "I just looked at a 1920 Cole touring, that needs a full restoration, and is getting ready to have same in a well known restoration shop. It needs a lot of parts, missing carb, top irons and bows, seats, and a lot of other stuff. If anyone knows of a parts stash out there, please let me know. Also, any literature, or copies of literature, for a 1920 would be appreciated. I've been asked to help in the research and restoration of the car." End quote Showing the 1920 870 used a Johnson, of which I have no knowledge. Showing the 1919 870 used a Stromberg. I can furnish one of these to you. 573-392-7378 (9-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon.
  18. Our civilization existed for many centuries without the invention of the annoying cell phone. "Necessity being the mother of invention", cell phones were required with the introduction of the electronic ignition.........................................................to call the tow truck Points and condenser have been driven more than a couple of miles without issues. As others, have mentioned, keep spares in your glove box (if it makes you more comfortable). On a 1979 production vehicle, I carried TWO spare electronic ignition modules in the glove box! In 440 k miles, had 12 of them fail! Jon.
  19. My shop truck has 4 wheel drum brakes, and I am quite happy with them. I do have radial tires. A properly maintained set of drum brakes will function well except: (1) If you have to cross a low-water bridge (2) You pull a 40 foot camping trailer in the mountains (OK, a 28 foot camping trailer in the mountains). And yes, the 4 wheel drum brakes will lock up all four wheels if you have a large enough foot! (or stomach behind the foot )! And I DO pull a 16' trailer with two John Deere lawn & garden tractors behind the truck. And yes, I will certainly agree that discs are better than drums; however, I don't plan on making six consecutive 70 -> 0 stops. In that situation, the drums would fade. As to the carburetor, there is no carburetor made that will perform as well out of the box as the original if properly rebuilt. How is your fuel system engineering capability? Anything other than original WILL require modification, some a LOT of modification. Jon.
  20. Al - the all cast iron construction definitely places the carburetor prior to 1946, when Carter changed to a zinc allow bowl, and 6 bowl screws. It is also definitely not the universal 289S, as it does not have the universal throttle shaft or the fast idle linkage from choke to throttle. My GUESS would be a Dodge truck or Chrysler marine engine to which someone has added the adjustable main metering jet. Knowing the center-to-center mounting bolt spacing might narrow it down. It still should at least start and run your engine, although probably not well. Since yours is the second BB-1 question today, I am going to post the link to my website to the original Carter BB-1 service instructions here for all to view: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Service_Carter_BB_updraft.pdf The key to idle issues on the BB-1 is the passage BENEATH the idle jet ("N" in the instructions diagram). THIS JET MUST BE REMOVED DURING REBUILDING. The pump squirting fuel back into the fuel bowl is probably the result of failure of the pump inlet check valve. Both the pump inlet and outlet check valves ARE available, but due to their construction, they ARE expensive, so we do not place them in the repair kits. Generally, they can be cleaned, and their insertion into the kit would more than triple the cost of the kits! However, neither the pump failure or a completely stopped up idle passage is preventing fuel from reaching the cylinders and allowing the engine to start. If the throttle is opened, say half way, and the choke is closed, the piston suction should pull fuel from the main metering circuit, allowing the engine to start and run at a higher than idle RPM. Even though the carb obviously is not perfect, I don't think the carb is the current issue. Jon.
  21. You may find a buyer here. If not, advertise it on the OldIHC forums. Jon.
  22. OK - you guys are confusing me with two different engines in the same thread A minor different in the air/fuel requirements of a 570 CID and a 300 CID For the slightly less than 300 CID you should be using BB-1 289s or BB-1 289sd. These are the largest of the BB-1's. Carter made 68 different type BB-1's in different sizes and configurations. Very important to pick the CORRECT BB-1. Because of the value of the universal BB-1's, there are a number of individuals, either less than knowledgeable, or less than honest, that will be happy to sell you the wrong BB-1. With any updraft, engine vacuum must be sufficient to pull the fuel from the carburetor. As I mentioned in a different thread, if an adapter is necessary, it should be as short as possible so as to minimize additional column height for the fuel/air mixture to move. Assuming the carburetor is correctly rebuilt, and the correct carburetor, the only issue I can see would NOT be carburetor related, possibly a vacuum leak. Some years ago, had a customer that could not get fuel to the engine from a Stromberg type SF carburetor. He finally removed the intake, and found a rusted out access plug in the back side of the intake. Have you tried spraying ether in the air intake to see if the engine will start and continue running? The results of this test might be informative. Jon.
  23. Al - even the very largest of the Carter type BB-1 carbs is pretty small for 570 CID. Without going to the prints, memory says the largest engine for which Carter suggested use of the largest BB-1 was 315 CID. Jon.
  24. Ed - you may appreciate this one: A month or so ago, sold a rebuilding kit for a Stromberg UX-4 (exceptionally rare carb). Last week, customer emails that the needle and seat won't fit? Checked the prints, and ALL of the UX-4 carbs take the same needle and seat. Emailed this information. He called, and we had a great conversation, the result being he would send his "original" needle and seat and the one I had sent, and I would modify to fit his carb. Well, when I received it, was like what the????? Fortunately, he also sent the carburetor bowl and float. Sometime in yesteryear, someone cast a new bowl assembly, and did a really nice job; BUT, they used a Stromberg U-2 float and a TILLOTSON fuel valve!!! They modified the float pin placement in the bowl to accommodate the Tillotson fuel valve, and U-2 float! WHY would someone spend the funds to cast a new bowl assembly and then not machine a new float valve??? Anyone, I am duplicating the Tillotson valve, with a large enough orifice for his engine. Even better than JB-weld Jon.
  25. Ed - for this application, Stromberg engineered a replacement carburetor about 1931. I am caretaker of the Stromberg files. Thus, we can build the carburetor to the original Stromberg specifications. Jon.