carbking

Fuel pressure is stated as 3 1/2 psi, with an absolute maximum of 4 3/4 psi (original fuels). With the volatility of modern fuels, I would think that maximum would be now be 4 psi (or less). As mentioned above, a fuel pressure gauge would confirm/deny a pressure issue. Jon

From a monetary standpoint ONLY: (1) Stromberg UU-3 (Duesenberg) genuine, not repro (2) Stromberg EE-3 (Duesenberg) (3) Rochester 7029273 1969 Pontiac RAIV GENUINE, NOT A RESTAMP! (4) Rochester 7041273 1971 Pontiac 455 HO (5) Packard 734 Detroit Lubricator genuine, not repro It was difficult limiting my list to 20 (the other thread); top one, or even top 5 required some consideration. ANY of these 5 would easily sell themselves, either advertised in the proper place, or with a single telephone call. And if someone has one of the above, at my age I am NOT a buyer. Of the above: I have never had a complete UU-3, but still have about 1/2 of one. I have never owned the Duesenberg EE-3; but have restored 2 I had, and sold 4 of the 7029273, and 3 of the 7041273 I have never had a complete Packard 734 carb; but had, and still have, parts. Jon

That carb could be a Packard; it could also be a later Buick. There are STAMPED numbers looking straight down on the top casting along one of the edges that will tell us for certain. If the carb is from a Packard, these numbers will be 10-something. If the carb is from a Buick, these numbers will be 7-something. Remember, you are looking for STAMPED (recessed) numbers; not raised. Carburetors of that type were used on engines from 248 through 356 CID; it is IMPORTANT to know which one you have. While the desire to return to original will certainly make friends and acquire points if the car is in a car show; IF the carburetor you have is applicable internally size-wise to the engine, and properly rebuilt and tuned, it will run circles around the original Marvel (AND you have it). I might have the original carb, will have to check; but know I do not have the heat riser. Just looking at the carb, the heat supply is not attached; unless the choke is being operated manually, this could be a real issue. Jon

Blue Field, "P" row. Packard Industries (Kantors) were set up next to us. Jon

FOR SALE: Six (6) issues of "Automobile Dealer and Repairer" magazine. These are 9 inch by 12 inch magazines of approximately 120 pages (the 1908 issue has less). Contains ads of automobile products (i.e. carburetors, etc.), articles, a question-and-answer section, and a few ads for automobiles. I don't know how to grade magazines. These have spine damage, and the outer covers are loose on most, the rear cover missing on one. The inside pages are nice. Vol 6, no 3 November 1908 Vol 13 no 3 May 1912 Vol 14, no 1 September 1912 Vol 14, no 6 February 1913 Vol 15, no 4 June 1913 Vol 16, no 3 November 1913 Price $172. to include postage and insurance within the USA. MasterCard or VISA by telephone. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

I was hoping you would see it. You had asked about the video in 1990, and in 33 years, lost your contact information. Sorry it took so long to get it digitized. Jon

Just received an email from AACA; they received the video and posted it on their youtube site. Here is the link: Hershey 1990 mud The audio on the video is my Dad. Jon

I use heat and cold BEFORE the penetrating oil. Heat the bolt slowly until it turns cherry red. Allow to cool by itself, do not quench. Once at normal temperature, make a patch of tape with a hole that will slide over the stud, and press the tape on the intake. Acquire a bottle of spray freon (I think that is what is used) from an electronics supply house. This is the stuff they use to test capacitors. Spray the bolt with the freon, and immediately spray with penetrating oil. Let it set for however long you normally let the stuff set. Ray - no offense, I prefer to "double-nut" the thread, rather than using Vise-Grips. Jon

West - take a look at the 6 character/number string on the dataplate: First character - month of production of the carburetor: A=Jan, B=Feb, etc. Second and third numbers - last 2 digits of the year of production of the carburetor Fourth through sixth numbers - the carburetor identification number, I think it is 825 for the Packard Model 734. Jon

West - they went the other direction. The first 734 carbs (Jan-Feb) were brass. The second run (Mar and newer) were zinc. Jon

West - now that is a RARE carburetor! Pfeil - Yes. I consider them eye-candy (but they certainly are that!!!). I guess I shouldn't make that statement, as I still have a dozen or more Pontiac tripowers, one of the 390/406 Ford tripowers, and many others to sell. Jon

I have only seen one of the Juhasz for Duesenberg. Back when Bill Harrah's place was going full bore, a Duesenberg belonging to a famous actress came in with one of these. The mechanics at Harrah's couldn't make it work (they had some really good mechanics, so was quite surprised); so they sent it to me?? I completely disassembled it, blew out all the passageways, checked for function of everything and reassembled. I called the shop foreman (too long ago, don't remember the name) and told his it probably still wouldn't work (it didn't) and to find a Schebler. They located the correct Schebler, installed it, and the car ran the way it was supposed to run. A display engine is probably the best place for it! Jon

These were in two types: (1) dual fuel bowls, like the "10 ball" Kingston pictured in this thread (2) "normal" carburetor (single fuel bowl) with different jetting Since the engine air volume does not change with the fuel, the same carburetor may be used, but with a different calibration. Typically, the Marvel/Scheblers of which I am most familiar would be calibrated for kerosene. I grew up with John Deere 2 cylinder tractors on the farm in the 1950's, many of which were dual fuel. These had two fuel tanks; the large tank for kerosene (a.k.a. distillate), and a much smaller tank for gasoline (typically 1 gallon or so). If used as intended, one would start the engine on gasoline, warm for a couple of minutes, then switch to kerosene. The key was ALWAYS switch to gasoline and run a few minutes before killing the engine. By doing this, one would assure that the carburetor bowl contained gasoline for the next start. Since using both fuels required two storage tanks at the farm, Dad just ran the engines on gasoline alone. On a similiar issue, both I.H.C. and John Deere had diesels which had a carburetor! They started on gasoline, then cut off the carb and switched to diesel. Jon

Ed - are you thinking of the Juhasz? I think, by adding values, you also added to my definition of "dsirable"; thanks. I have to mildly disagree on the best carb is always the original. If you are dealing with quality products like Stromberg, in most cases totally agree. However, there was that DDR-3 Duesenberg carb. But if you look at some of the lower priced carburetors; there are often better options. How would you compare a Kingston L4 (not rare, but original) to a Stromberg OF? And today, there are some zinc alloy carbs that have plain disintegrated over time; and were used on cars that will not sell for enough to justify reproduction of the carburetor. In cases such as these, replacements can be a good idea. Jon

One of the very best two-barrels ever made, and one of the very easiest to rebuild! Now how did that happen????? Originally identified by an aluminum tag under one of the screws; hopefully the tag will still be present. You need the number on the tag to acquire the proper rebuilding kit. If the tag is missing, you have to hope the carburetor is original, and some previous rebuilder left off the tag; and guess on the rebuilding kit. As Frank stated, watch where the balls fall from. Use a slotted screw-driver to remove/replace the power jet. As Glenn stated, acquire an ORIGINAL paper copy of the factory service manual; not a reproduction. Read the section on the Rochester 2-barrel TWICE before disassembly. Dawn dishwater detergent is a good cleaning media. You can do this; if you run into trouble, there are folks here that will help. Jon

The Ford folks probably won't believe it, but the "10 ball" (it is a tractor carb) will sell for more than twice the Ford "5 ball". The "5 ball" is a variety of the Model E. There are 5 different varieties: E, E-1, E-2, E-3, and E-4. It would be special order, but one could acquire one of these (memory says the E-2) in a 5 inch size! The types vary as to the configuration of the flange, air intake, etc. All have the 5 balls, but there are several different sizes of the balls, depending on the size of the carburetor. The "10- ball" is the Model E Dual. Dave - the Stromberg U-2 is not rare (118 different applications), or it would not be if it were not zinc alloy. Fortunately, the castings have been reproduced in aluminum. I personally consider the zinc alloy U-2's as "donor" carbs for floats, shafts, jets, etc. for finishing the new casting; never as being useable as is. There is also a cast iron version of the U-2 which is rare. Jon

That Krebs IS interesting, thanks for the picture. Jon.

I guess, in my case, it would be monetary. If it rare, but no one wants it???? Being in the business, I have way too much dead inventory that was purchased in large lots (cleaned out several salvage yards, taking every carburetor they had). The carbs on my initial list would, if advertised, ALL sell within a week (many the same day). Brass carbs are a HARD SELL (no, I don't have any Flechters). I do sell an occasional Schebler D, or a Stromberg OF (an OF core easily brings more than a Miller or a Winfield core). Like I posted earlier, it seems that every brass car owner has at least 2 spares already. There are probably some really rare brass carbs, but maybe only one person is looking for it, and you have to find that person. The only brass carbs that sell well are for tractors. Bennett would have been on my list if I had included tractors. Other brass carbs that sell, although not really well, are Strombergs (L's, M's, and O's) to replace some of the really rare stuff that doesn't work, and the owner wants to at least drive in a parade; and still wants a brass carb under the hood. The best selling O.E. brass carb was the Stewart used on the Dodge Victory 6. The other carb for that model was a diecast Stromberg. Like I said in my first post, there are no wrong answers; I have really enjoyed reading the responses. And Layden, that is a nice Miller. Jon

Love the comments, keep them coming! Layden - Several of the carburetor companies would do aluminum castings at extra cost; it was special order, but catalogues gave the process. TTR - I purposely omitted carbs not made in the U.S.A. from my list; I know nothing about 4 barrel Webers, but would guess you are right. Lee - the Pogue is scarce but not appreciably desirable (no one can make it work ). One sat on ebay for a couple of months at $2500. and never sold. The other "high mileage" carburetor (Fish) is neither rare nor desirable. K8096 - both the Stromberg UUR-2 (passenger) and the EE-22 could easily be on the list; as could the E-2, EX-2, EE-25, and AA-25. 1937hd45 - you have had MUCH better luck with the rotarys than have I. Rare, but difficult to sell. And the UUR-2 for the White truck is not rare. If you need one, check the military surplus suppliers. And before anyone asks where, they are exceptionally expensive to convert for passenger use! Terry B - There are probably a few brass era carbs that would fit the list. However, I find that virtually all brass era owners have at least 2 spares. Most are rare, but not overly desirable. In a different lifetime, well 25 years ago, I reproduced a Zenith O4D for the early V-8 Chevrolet; which was, and is, rare and desirable. TAKerry - there are dozens of muscle car carburetors that could easily make the list. Jon

Started this thread because a similar thread (the "holy grail" thread) piqued my interest. What would be your list? As these lists would be personal, there are NO wrong answers. I am curious to see other response. Note that I am in the carburetor business, and my list are carbs that all I would need to do to sell one is place it for sale. Before I had finished listing, the phone would be ringing off the table. Price on several of these would run into 5 figures. All of them would be 4 figures. My list of top 20 rare and desirable carburetors: Stromberg UU-3 (Duesenberg race only) Carter 3636s (trap door NASCAR Pontiac Rochester 7029273 (1969 RA IV Pontiac) Rochester 7041273 (1971 Pontiac 455 HO) Stromberg EE-3 1 3/8 (Duesenberg) Stromberg EE-3 1 5/16 (Packard 12) Stewart Model 25 for the 1928 Victory 6 Detroit Lubricator dual for Packard 734 Carter 3593s (NASCAR Chevrolet) Rochester 7040256 (Olds W-30) Holley R-1536 and R-1599 (supercharged Ford / T-Bird) Rochester 7010600 (Pontiac 2x4) Carter 407s, 408s, 488s (Graham)(488s is so highly sought after, I reproduced 2 of them) Autolite inline 4-barrel (Ford racing) Stromberg EX-32 1 3/8 (supercharged Auburn) Zenith brass 105D (Stutz) Riley (aftermarket sidedraft) Jon

Scarce, yes. Holy grail? I guess one could consider it to be if one was looking for one, and nothing else. As a carburetor person, it wouldn't be very close to the top of my list. Jon

Chrysler type BBS, sublet to Carter for manufacture. To my knowledge, identified BY TAG ONLY! Once the tag has been removed, if clean its a paper weight, if dirty then its a door stop. Jon

QUOTE: "The choke baffle is wide open all of the time, so it's not choking down, although that's also what it sounds like." END QUOTE This sounds like the problem; the choke plate SHOULD close for a cold start and effect the calibration for 4~5 minutes. The choke plate should slowly open as heat increases in the engine for 4~5 minutes. After than time the choke plate should be wide open. Jon

Thank you Peter, will do. We have found three different years of videos that Dad took at Hershey. Will send them all. In the FWIW category, I STILL have Hershey mud from 1990 on one of my swap meet tables! Jon

Finally found the video my Dad took at Hershey in 1990. My Son has digitized the video. I don't have room on my website for it (about 600 MB). If someone has room (possibly this forum) for this video and will post it for all to see, I would sent it on a thumb drive. This is a Hershey where the backhoes and 4-wheel tractors were required to extract the motorhomes and the pickups with trailers from the field. Jon