carbking

The carburetor in the center is a Carter type YH (think 6 cylinder Corvette, or turbo-Corvair). There were also Nash and marine applications, among others. Pontiac built at least 1 Car show car with a Latham supercharged V-8. The Latham used 4 of the sidedraft Carter YH carbs, so Pontiac was familiar with the YH. Jon

Frank You can make the leather cups yourself, but I don't know what you have as far as shop tools to do the rest. To make the cups: (1) Acquire some scrap "crown leather" (find a saddle maker, they should have scraps). (2) Measure the inside diameter of the bottom third of the pump well. (3) Measure the thickness of the crown leather you obtained. (4) Acquire a piece of one inch thick plywood, maybe 6 inches by 6 inches. (5) Drill a hole through the center of the plywood about .010 (ten thousandths) larger in diameter than the diameter you measured in step 2. Slightly round the top of the hole. (6) Calculate twice the thickness of the leather, and subtract that from the diameter of the diameter of the hole you drilled in step five. (7) Machine a piece of brass rod to be a thickness of .010 (ten thousandths) smaller than the dimention calculated in step 6, with a prong on the end the diameter of the pump stem hole. (8) Slightly round the end of the rod. (9) Cut a circle of the leather large enough to form the cup with maybe a 1/4 inch to long for the skirt. (10) Soak the leather in warm water for 30 minutes. (11) Place the top side of the leather on the top side of the plywood. (12) Push the cup through using the brass rod. (13) Let the leather remain in the mold for 24 hours. (14) Remove the leather from the mold. (15) Chuck the brass rod and leather in your lathe, and using a tool with a razor blade, cut the proper skirt length. (16) Advertise, and sell these to the Corvair club members Jon

Frank - I have never made the leather pumps for the H/HV carbs, as no one has asked for them in the kits we make. I CAN make them, but it is not a matter of making the cup; one has to fabricate the whole lower end of the pump. Jon

Frank - one of the problems with comments concerning fuel on the internet is that the fuel is not a constant. If you have had good luck with the blue skirts in your area, by all means, use them. As a manufacturer of rebuilding kits, I have to be concerned with all fuel, and the only material I have found to always work, is leather. Jon

Carter used a number of dust covers, the Chevrolet one may not fit. Which Chevrolet carb do you have? Jon

Bloo - going to slightly disagree (semantics). The 315s did supersede the 298s. I have no record of the 414s superseding the 315s. The 414s, and its sister the 413s were a different story for Carter. By 1940, dealers were clamoring for the same coverage, but less actual inventory. The 414s/413s were universal WA-1 carbs. Slotted throttle bodies, so they could replace either S.A.E. size 2 or size 3 carburetors. Main venturi was 1 1/4 inch. Carter got away with it because LOTS of sixes and small eights in the 1930's had 1 3/16, 1 1/4, and 1 5/16 inch venturii. Both the 414s (auto choke), and 413s (manual choke) were WA-1 carbs. If one looks in the Carter Master carburetor price and supersession list printed in 1942, one will find the 315s is still in production and priced. However, if one looks in the aftermarket sales cataloges of that period, the listing would show the 315s with the notation that the 414s could also be used. The 413s/414s continued to be produced, and some time in the 1950's the 1949 and 1950 Pontiac six carbs 717s and 718s WERE superseded by 413s and 414s. I don't have it digitized, and too lazy to look for it, but somewhere I have what memory says is a 5 page list of applications where the 413s/414s could be used. Jon

Google Use this search string thecarburetorshop.com carter w-1 298 This search, with the carb manufacturer, type, and number as necessary may be used to identify 99.9 percent of the carburetors used in the USA from 1932 to 1974. A modified search will get applications from 1903 through 1931, but the percentage is less. Jon

I found one. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Not going to get very involved with this, too many modifications to consider; however: When the automatic choke was downgraded to electric, was the exhaust heat source in the automatic choke housing capped? If not, there would be a vacuum leak on the passenger side only. As to your comments concerning mileage: The Q-Jet is a great carburetor. Low RPM driveability is often better than that of an AFB. Low RPM mileage of the Q-Jet MIGHT be slightly better than the AFB (maybe 5 percent???). If the highway mileage on an AFB differs from that of a Q-jet, assuming both are calibrated correctly for the vehicle in question, then someone needs some carburetor tuning skills. The only time I ever did a direct comparison on highway mileage from a Q-Jet to an AFB resulted in 9.5 percent BETTER mileage on the AFB. This on my Dad's vehicle. Removed the factory Q-Jet and replaced it with a modified AFB. The CARTER AFB is also a great carburetor. The Q-Jet gets improved low RPM driveability from increased venturii air velocity. On the highway, this is not an issue. And to echo Jim's comment above; if you don't find the Q-Jet you wish, would suggest finding another original CARTER AFB designed for Buick, not the other. Jon

That is a picture of the Penberthy type DB. Jon

Ben - you are absolutely correct! However, having a carburetor professionally rebuilt is EXPENSIVE! A number of us feel that a bit of testing might determine that the rebuild is unnecessary, and are trying to help. It may be that we should only answer the question asked. Jon

I don't know. I have a couple of non-useable DB-22's that I bought for sample components for rebuilding kits. I have NEVER seen a legitimate reference for the DB-22, although there is an ebay vendor that has one which he/she claims is a rare racing carburetor and wants a small fortune for it. Penberthy literature is more scarce than winning an argument with the IRS. I have no literature on either the DB-20 or the DB-22. A.E.A. does list the DB-20 as being correct. I would suggest a couple of paths, depending on your expectations for the car: If a show-car in national car shows where the car can be trailered to the show field, or a museum car that will never be started; epoxy all the cracks in the Penberthy, paint it gray, and block the fuel line so fuel cannot enter the carburetor. If you plan to drive the car: (1) Have new aluminum castings produced to rebuild the DB-22 OR (2) Use a different carburetor. Jon

Jim - I asked about the make of carburetors due to each having their own "gotchas". The Carter "gotcha" is the adjustment of the metering rods. You suspect the high speed circuit. If the adjustment on the metering rods is too low, then the high speed circuit, of which the metering rods are a large part, would be too lean. We have been sending folks needing a rebuild to a company called Carburetor Specialist in Georgia. So far, I have had no negative feedback. But if you are convinced the issue is fuel, then a fuel pump test to determine if the proper amount of fuel is available to the carburetor would be the first step. IF the fuel pump passes the fuel volume test, the next test would be to test the function of the accelerator pump (MUCH more likely to be the culprit than the high speed circuit for a backfire on acceleration). If the accelerator pump tests good, then remove the fuel sight plug and verify that the fuel level in the carburetor is correct. If the fuel level is correct, then do the "run" test you have been running, and again check the fuel level when the engine stalls. And a wee bit of comment concerning this thread. A friend on another forum has a signature of "wag more, bark less". Because you posted on this forum, I am "wagging" and trying to help, including the answer on a professional shop. Had you called my shop with your symptoms, MY first question would be do you have an electronic conversion on the vehicle? If the answer is yes, my next comment would have been that I unable to help until the points and condenser has been installed. WHY, you may ask? Because trying to debug a "carburetor issue" on an electronic conversion is a total waste of my time. I won't try to talk you out of the electronic whizbang, but when something goes wrong, it simply adds an additional degree of uncertainly; and much more often than not is the culprit. Fix the problem, then if you want the electronic gizmo, go for it. One other thought: When you rebuilt the carbs, were the accelerator pumps in the kits you used leather or modern? If leather, then the skirt should be oiled with a light machine oil prior to installation, and the leather pump is probably good for 100k miles (or much more). The modern (reap CHEAP) neoprene accelerator pumps can fail in a couple of DAYS if exposed to ethanol diluted fuel. I have opened up customer carburetors with the blue pump, found the blue material at the bottom of the pump well disconnected from the pump stem, and the fuel in the pump well is BLUE! In any event, PLEASE post the issue once it has been found. We all learn by reading symptoms and solutions. Jon

D6A2 is correct for 1941. I have used ones available. Jon

In 1929, Chrysler used a Penberthy (a.k.a. Ball & Ball) model DB-20 carburetor. In 1928, Chrysler used a Stromberg UX-2 on the EXPORT model 72. This is the only UX-2 listed in the Stromberg factory records used by Chrysler. Good luck on finding the DB-20; the castings were unstable zinc alloy, and have disintegrated to dust! Jon.

For sale: Empty Carter metal carburetor parts cabinets. There is one on Ebay for picture purposes: Ebay number 155230579650 This is a two drawer, one large, one small. My price is $10 per small drawer, $20 per large drawer. They are stackable. Have lots more carburetor cabinets. ABSOLUTELY NO SHIPPING. Pick up in Eldon, Missouri. These sale prices good through the end of October, or complete sell-out (this I don't expect). We are downsizing, and what is left 1 November will be regretfully recycled. PM or 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). These are great as nostalgia in your garage, or to store nuts, screws, washers, etc. The drawers do have dividers. Only condition is you have to buy at least 4 small drawers for each large drawer, if you want more than one large drawer. You can buy as few as one small drawer and one large drawer. Jon

m-mman - I think this one may be a sticky valve, or the distibutor not advancing; but the OP feels it is fuel. If the carburetor is at fault, it is probably the metering rod adjustment; although the float is a possibility. Jon

Did you check the metering rod adjustment when you rebuilt the carb? Other than that, not much that can go wrong. Jon

Are your carbs Carters or Strombergs? Jon

Going through my "patterns" stuff, and downsizing. This is stuff I thought some day I might reproduce, so kept as samples. Will not be reproducing these items, so offering for sale. These are new old replacement stock. Have only a very few of each. Adjustable main metering jets for many updraft Stromberg carburetors - $75. each plus postage. (See application list below) Adjustable main metering jets for many early downdraft single barrel Strombergs - $75. each plus postage. (See application list below). Adjustable main metering jets for early and mid-1930's Stromberg EE-1 two-barrels (Auburn, Buick, Oldsmobile, Studebaker) - $125./pair. VISA/MasterCard 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon

Wayne - Stromberg released a replacement carburetor specifically for the 6-45 Paige. It is a URO-1. While there are a number of URO-1 carbs, any may be recalibrated. The carb is cast iron, so not as "pretty" as a brass one, but there is probably no better, or even as good, a carburetor that you could put on the engine for all purposes except national shows or a museum. I have never seen an aluminum Johnson model H; but I have seen a couple of larger Johnson model R's that were aluminum. Jon

Off by about 40 years, try Willys. "W" carburetor applications Jon

I think this one is a Model R, rather than the Model H. The only documentation I have ever found on these are a few of the 5x8 individual brochures. The H's and R's were used on a number of vehicles in the 1920's; but every one I have ever seen, like this one, was suffering from "pot metal decay", and usable only for patterns. The Johnsons used by Cadillac were aluminum, not zinc alloy.. Jon

I would suggest temporarily installing a fuel pressure gauge right at the carburetor. If the fuel pump is only 2 years old, AND came from a FLAPS, the pressure is suspect. A test with the gauge will tell us if this is a problem. If the fuel pressure to the carburetor is too high, the fuel valve/float will not shut off the pressure. If the pressure is only a little too high, then it is possible that the fuel level will rise higher on the float, increasing the effective buoyancy of the float, allowing the float to shut off the fuel, but at a higher bowl fuel level than normal. If the above is true, fuel would drip from the venturii when attempting to start; and if the engine doesn't start, the fuel that dripped from the venturii down on the closed throttle plates would exit the carburetor by the down-hill side of the the throttle shaft. As for fuel exiting the engine when the engine dies, old-tank in post 2 is probably correct, along with too much fuel pressure. Fuel pressure test is the first step. MAXIMUM allowable fuel pressure at the pump with real gasoline is 6 1/2 psi. That will be slightly less with ethanol. Guessing at maybe 5 1/2 psi at the carburetor would be the maximum. Jon

Mechanical or electric fuel pump? If mechanical, is it new? Jon