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Everything posted by carbking

  1. There really is not one! Carter built 505 DIFFERENT type AFB carburetors, and they are just that, different. Even the published for the public Carter documentation is generic (but better than the generic stuff in the FLAPS kits). Rather than using the incorrect generic stuff, we do NOT put a diagram in our kits. Better nothing than wrong! Best bet is to acquire a factory parts book for your vehicle. Even here, the diagram(s) will be generic, but less so than in general documentation. Carter did publish an "AFB Circuit Manual", which lists the various circuits in the AFB, and goes into detail describing each circuit function. The most important thing to remember in rebuilding an AFB is that the step-up rods are installed AFTER the air horn is installed. For those of you that willfully ignore this friendly advice, I have the capability of machining new step-up rods at a price. The only truly specific diagrams I have seen are the original Carter drawings which were archived on IBM aperture cards. To date, I have not found an inexpensive method of dealing with these. Now, when I need one, it takes about 30 minutes to locate the card, set up the scanner, scan, check, and store digitally. Anyone want to trade some scanning and digitizing for rare carburetors??? Jon.
  2. Ed - THANK YOU, but I have neither halos nor wings ! I do have a very large eraser! And you are correct that my chart was the first instance of "modern" multiple carbs by GM division. If one wishes to go back into history, the chart changes as follows: Cadillac - 1930 Buick - 1941 Buick was actually testing compound carburetion (but dual single barrels, not dual two barrels) in 1935 Jon.
  3. Early Q-Jets had brass floats. There have been a number of DIFFERENT style Q-Jet floats. They look interchangeable, but they are not interchangeable. Because of the failure of the Nitrophyl floats, some aftermarket brass floats were available 40 years ago to replace the Nitrophyl floats. These are not interchangeable with the early original brass floats. Floats should ALWAYS be ordered using the carburetor identification number. If you are buying a "new" brass float, check the box to see where it was made. Far eastern solder does NOT like ethanol. On the other hand, neither does Nitrophyl, but the Nitrophyl seems to be more reliable than far eastern solder. Avoid the "new" offshore brass floats. As to float adjustment: I can never remember a Q-Jet with a float out of adjustment, if one used a new correct float, and a new correct fuel valve. There are maybe 40 or so different fuel valves for the Q-Jet. Don't automatically assume that your FLAPS kit has the correct one. If float adjustment IS necessary: NEVER (one of the words I dislike using) bend the arm on the float. Instead, change the thickness of the gasket under the fuel valve. If correct for the engine, and properly rebuilt, the Q-Jet is one of the finest carbs ever built, at any price, at any time, anywhere. EDIT: and if you have to go into a Q-Jet, and it has the Nitrophyl float, don't bother trying to weigh it; "file 13" and replace it. Call it "lazy insurance" (so you don't have to replace it next week )! Jon.
  4. Buick did not build it that way; however an aftermarket set could have been added in 1959, or a Buick set could have been added after 1964. Buick was the last of the GM passenger divisions to have multiple carbs as an option: Cadillac - 1955 Chevrolet - 1956 Oldsmobile - 1957 Pontiac - 1957 Buick - 1964 Jon.
  5. Factory equipment for the Big Six (as far back as I have material): 1923 Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-12 1924 Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-12 1925 (early production) Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-14 1925 (late production) Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-29 Factory SERVICE carburetor 1923 Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-29 1924 Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-29 1925 (early production) Penberthy (Ball & Ball) SV-29 AFTERMARKET carburetor recommendation by Stromberg: 1919~1924 LS-2 with 1 1/8 main venturi. Think of the physical designation of a carburetor model the way you would a tire. 15 inch tire 165-75R15 (Volkswagen Beetle) 235-75R15 (Ford 1/2 ton truck) other Stromberg LS-2 carburetor 1 1/32 inch venturi - Studebaker Special Six 1 1/8 inch venturi - Studebaker Big Six EDIT: this link for a different model of Stromberg should further explain external/internal carburetor sizes: And to your final question: Quote Dennis: "Jon, What are your major issues with the Penberthy? Can you recommend a good replacement? I like to keep things original but will make some compromises for reliability and performance. I have a Rayfield running good on my Mitchell after considerable tweeking. Not an impressive or easy to understand carb." End quote I once hauled in a pasture of hay using a Toyota pickup, and it got the job done. The next cutting, we used a Ford 2-ton flatbed. It also got the job done.......................better I made the comment about the aftermarket LS-2 as my professional opinion is that the Strombergs WERE better carbs than the Ball & Ball design (even Carter couldn't make the Ball & Ball design work well after they bought the rights to the design!). Plus, in 51 years I have been unable to find ANY information on the early (pre-1923) Ball & Ball Studebaker carbs, and so far, no one has posted any in this thread; and there are at least some new parts available for the Strombergs, as far as I am aware, nothing for the Ball & Ball units. Jon.
  6. Dennis - the Special Six used a smaller internal venturi. I am a firm believer that one should pay attention to the engineers. And the Stromberg engineers recommended the LS-2 with the 1 1/8 inch venturi for the Big Six. The Penberthy would probably need to be much larger, as they were not overly efficient. Jon.
  7. If you find out, please post, as I would like the information for my records. In the meantime, Stromberg released a model LS-2 for the 1919~1924 Big Six. It was calibrated with a 1.125 inch venturi. (Opinion) the very worst Stromberg is greatly superior to the very best Penberthy. Jon.
  8. Have updated both database and website, here is the link: The displacements on the 125, 129, and 139 seem suspect, but that is what Stromberg had in their records. If you see any errors, omissions, etc. would like to see documentation. I try to make these listings as accurate as possible. Jon.
  9. Thanks, will update my computer database, and will update the internet listings when I have time. This is one of the "gotchas" that can give restorers fits. And why one MUST have an open mind! And view even factory sources with a "grain of salt". It would be interesting to know WHY the change, but we probably never will know. Did Pierce run out of U-4 carbs, and Stromberg wanted a minimum amount for a run? Did the UU-2 give better performance? Did Pierce acquire a better price from Stromberg for the UU-2 for a larger run? Or did some "seer" anticipate that 50 years from then the U-4 castings would be garbage, and there was sufficient usage of the UU-2 that the castings could be reproduced? Again, thank you. Jon.
  10. Should you be in your parts manual sometime, I would love to have a copy of the page showing this. I would then update my database. There is no reference in the factory Stromberg documents (index, reference book, or prints) that show the Model C using the two-barrel. Of course, if Pierce decided to use the two-barrel AFTER they purchased it from Stromberg, and did not tell Stromberg, then Stromberg would not have known. Jon.
  11. 1958 Buick 364 4-barrels original numbers: Carter - 2800s (AFB) Rochester (early year production) - 7011600 (4-GC) Rochester (late year production) - 7013100 (4-GC) The Carter would be exceptionally tough to find, as the Pontiac folks clone them into Pontiac Super Duty carbs. The two Rochesters should be easier and significantly less expensive when you find one. Jon.
  12. You might get a quicker response if your question was more specific. Year? Series? Transmission? Air conditioning? Do you prefer Rochester or Carter? Jon.
  13. It would be nice to know the vacuum reading at idle, unless I missed it. On the new old stock carb you installed: 2-barrel or 4-barrel? Both Carter and Rochester used Velumoid gaskets, which shrink with time, and cause leaks. Strombergs used a material that did not shrink. Is the gasket from carb to intake correct for both carb and intake? Did you install a spacer under the carb? Jon.
  14. We have used cores for either the Standard or Master. Cores only, no rebuilts. Which do you wish me to list? Jon.
  15. Ron - the Stromberg LB, LS, and OS carburetors, along with the Zenith HP series, are virtually impossible to keep in stock. They are highly sought after by enthusiasts building "retro race cars" world wide. They are all really good period carburetors, and side-draft in construction. We have been out of most of these for years. Most of them went to Europe. Thanks for asking. EDIT: Don't remember ever selling an OS-2 to a Kissel owner. Have sold a couple to the Ford T enthusiasts, for use with a Frontenac cylinder head, but generally they sell in multiples. The folks building a 4 cylinder want 2 matching ones, and the folks building an inline 6 want 3 matching ones. Just as a suggestion, you might, in your travels, pick up other versions of the Stromberg and Zenith side-drafts (I don't remember anyone who has tried to use 2 Schebler model R's ) Really difficult to match 2 or especially 3. You might be able to do some trading with some of the folks building these things. So far, no one (other than the Frontenac folks) have wanted a specific side-draft; they just wanted side-drafts. Jon.
  16. To the gentleman needing the LaSalle carb from 1940, I checked and am sold out. We now have active a factory Buick dual quad, a factory Cadillac dual quad, an aftermarket Chevrolet dual quad with a Creitz intake, a factory Ford tripower, as well as a number of rebuilding kits including a SUPER kit for a 1941~1948 Chevrolet 6 with Carter W-1. Please bookmark our auctions, hopefully will be listing stuff for the next several years (unless someone would like to get in the carburetor business). Jon.
  17. A more complete description might help. Will the engine not start? Is the carburetor leaking after you shut it off? If so much fuel is draining into the intake manifold to prevent starting, there are several possibilities, but the most likely would be a defective discharge valve under the accelerator pump allowing fuel to syphon through the accelerator pump circuit. If the spring in the valve is weak, or the plunger is stuck then no amount of fuller earth and liquid soap is going to help; it will need to be replaced. Jon.
  18. Lots of good ideas, however (opinion) the best ideas are testing. In order: (1) Compression test (2) If the compression is good (rebuilt engine), check the valve settings (spring tension, clearance, if applicable) (3) If compression and valves are good, check the ignition, ESPECIALLY with an aftermarket ignition. Would suggest returning to original components for the test. We have solved hundreds of customers "carburetor" problems by having them replace a pertronix with points and condenser!!!!! (4) If all of the above is good, verify the idle settings (dwell, timing, idle mixture) (5) After that fuel pressure test. Compare results to the specifications in your factory shop manual. If you don't have a factory shop manual, acquire one! (6) If all of the above is good, a vacuum test at idle, and off-idle. Again, compare results with expected results. And remember, the white tailpipe of yesteryear was lead residue. A well-tuned car with todays fuel will have a dark or black tailpipe, and if driven around town and never driven at speed, the tailpipe will be sooty. Finally, an engine with a "perfect" carburetor and a defective ignition will be very rich, as there is insufficient spark to burn all of the fuel. Have fun. Very enjoyable to overcome a problem. Do not give up, but more testing and fewer replacement of parts will lead to better results. Jon.
  19. As close as I can get to the '41 Buick rear is a '42 Buick rear. I do have one of those in used (needing rebuilding) condition. Jon
  20. Len - actually, you can. From the main page of ebay, in the upper right corner is the blue "Search" button. Just to the right is the tag "Advanced" Click on "Advanced" Scroll close to the bottom and you will see a large page-wide box entitled "Sellers" In that large box you will see a small box entitled "Only show items from" Place a checkmark in the small box That will open a white box entitled "specific sellers" where you can enter the username. OR, 362398523524 Hidden hunter - we have about 15 not totally identified Cadillac Johnson V-8 carbs, plus a couple of sets of V-12/V-16 Caddy Johnsons. The V-8 units are difficult for me to completely identify. If you can, post a picture showing throttle arm, and any markings on the castings. Will check WHEN IT COOLS OFF! These are located in an un-air-conditioned warehouse, and it is hot in Missouri (Misery) However, we only ship to the USA and Canada (Ebay items 48 contiguous United States only). I got tired years ago of getting lit up on some forums for shipping costs, and I own no stock in either the post office or UPS! Beyond my control. Getting ready (in a couple of days) to list a Buick Riv dual quad set-up, and following that, a Caddy dual quad set. Jon.
  21. I really need to make some room! So, I am listing carbs on Ebay. The present order of how they are listed is basically the ones that are most in the way However, if there are any requests, will see what I can find. Auctions are listed under username carbking. Please let me know if you want a specific carburetor listed. Jon.
  22. Peter - sent you a message on the IHC forum with a buyer. Jon.
  23. And I thought I was the only one that threw rocks at the Cadillac (Johnson) carburetors Jon.
  24. Check this link: If the curb idle screw (throttle positioner screw) is screwed in such that the throttle is cracked open, then the fuel will go into the manifold rather than exiting by the throttle shaft. Jon.