ECCO Machine

Thanks for all the info! A little searching isn't turning up much on the BB-1 245s for sale. Do you have one of these on hand that's rebuilt/rebuildable, or one of the Zenith or Stromberg units you recommend? I'm not looking for cheap, I want this car to run as well as it can on today's fuels (we do have 87 octane ethanol free available here).

OK, next question: What's everyone's opinion on the best carburetor for these? It has a Tillotson JR1A, which I pulled off to go through, only to discover that the bowl had been "repaired"; looks like someone tried to solder it, realized that wasn't gonna work, then JB welded it. It was leaking. I cleaned off all the epoxy and did a TIG repair, which of course went horribly on account of the very porous and contaminated alloy, fighting pinholes no matter how much I tried to prep clean, including 120 grit AO blasting inside & out. Before it wouldn't rev unless choked, now that's resolved after a thorough cleaning including tiny wire gauge drills to get the solidified ick out of the jets, but seems no matter what I adjust, the idle won't play nice. I also feel like this thing should have more power. I know it was only rated at 38 HP, but it feels like half that at the moment. I've got the carb sealed up for now and can move the thing under it's own power, but this carb really just needs replaced. I don't think it's correct anyway; the representation in the original manual I procured shows a completely different unit. Should I go Zenith?

Yes, they did. Showed up late last week, but we're still trying to put our house back together, so I didn't have time to get into them until this evening. Thank you for looking! I wasn't sure they would be a go for a minute, as evidently the T2C-1 has a slightly taller housing and uses a larger 17 tooth input shaft gear to a larger front sliding gear, but after some examining, I realized I could transplant the cluster and reverse idler into my T2-1 case and then run my original sliding gears and input. So it's back together and driving as of a couple hours ago, just need to go through the carb and then get it registered & insured! I did have to make a bushing for the trans output. I forgot to find a seal while I was waiting, didn't feel like searching and waiting even longer for a 1-1/2 ID, 2-7/16 OD 3/8" thick seal when I had a modern flange type seal on hand of the right thickness and ID, just had to make a 1.373" ID x 1.438" OD aluminum bushing and loctite it into the housing. Also found the input shaft housing was not very round and the release bearing was way too tight on it, but that sort of thing is an easy fix. I had contemplated making a new one out of 17-4 stainless, but time is in short supply right now, and it's just not that big a deal to pull the trans again if it becomes necessary. I needed to get this thing off the lift, as the engine machine shop expects to have my block for the 500 stroker that's going in my '78 Aspen coupe ready next week. That's been on the back burner way too long, and I have all the rest of the stroker kit, ported aluminum heads, cam, Holley Sniper II kit injection kit and everything else here. Been a 440 car for awhile, but it's an old RV engine with a Street Dominator intake, a Quick Fuel 850 carb and MSD ignition, probably only about 270 HP & 350 lb. ft torque. The 10.6:1 500 stroker with fuel injection and Hyperspark digital ignition should be in the 550-600 HP range with 600+ lb.ft. It'll make the 3,100 lb car scoot for sure! I know this is the wrong forum for that vehicle, but I'm just as excited to have it done as the '28!

Thanks for all the tips! Especially on the distributor drive. This car is an earlier 1928 with mechanical rear brakes only, so won't be doing anything with wheel cylinders. Unless I find it unsafe on our local roads with rear brakes only, I will leave it that way I did notice that with the front trans housing piece that the release bearing rides on. Does anyone know of a good reason that couldn't be made from 17-4 stainless steel? Unlike the gears, that's a simple part that is easily reproduced from round bar, but if someone has tried that with high strength hardened steels/stainless steels and had issues result from the tougher, more rigid material with different thermal expansion properties, I'll spare myself the trouble and potential future issues. I did call Jay Astheimer first, and he believes he has a trans, but if he can't find the right one, I'll definitely be reaching out!

I actually have both of those rear handles, but I am missing one on the passenger front, so much appreciated! Thank you to everyone for all the support! This is awesome! I wasn't turning up much at all with internet searches. I'll be reaching out to those contacts today. As far as drivetrain swapping if it did happen with this, it would 1) be done with no permanent alterations to the car and 2) most likely a 2.5L Jeep 4 cylinder mated to a 2WD AX-15 trans I already have so it would still more-or-less sound right. If that day comes, I have ways of getting it done not available to most; I manufacture firearm suppressors and accessories for a living, but the equipment I have can do a lot more. I could even remake these gears if I really wanted to, but the time investment for such one-off parts is huge, whether on manual machines or on my 4 and 5 axis CNCs. That cluster gear especially; some tricky geometry there from a cutting standpoint to make it as one piece, and I also have rather little gear making experience. I've made plenty of parts I just plain couldn't find, but it's a lot more practical and economical to buy parts like these whenever possible. Incidentally, I'll almost certainly end up fixing/making some parts for this car on a machine of roughly the same vintage that I use almost daily. I love antique machinery as well! It's had some modernizing with DROs, electronic power feed, coolant flooding, tool post, etc. but the machine is still a piece of mid-1920s history making high precision parts 100 years later! Anyway, I don't think this will be our only 1920s critter. We'll be on the hunt for a 6 series coupe or roadster down the road! And I'm very grateful to have found y'all for this one and those to come in the future!

I didn't see a new member forum, so figured GD was the place! Been a Mopar nut all my life and have/had many classics, but this is my first pre-1950 critter. It's a 1928 Model 52 Deluxe, and I think it's pretty nice, especially for the price I paid! Unfortunately, the fellow who was handling the estate entrusted a local hack shop for clutch replacement, and they missed the shift fork alignment, causing it to be in reverse and forward gears at the same time. So I'm in search of a transmission, or at least all the gears except the 2 sliders. It blew the reverse gear on the cluster into 9 pieces, tore 4 teeth off the reverse idler and damaged the input gear. Really hoping I don't have to do a powertrain transplant right off the bat. Anyway, here she is: And the bad news: I have looked in the Chrysler for sale section and posted to a couple related threads, but if any of y'all know where one of these Warner Gear T2-1 gearboxes might be, I'd love to know!

Do you have a Warner T2-1 transmission? My application is a 1928 Chrysler 52