gungeey

This is correct. This nonsense has been going on for two weeks now? There is high likelihood if you take the suggestion and use bolts on your exhaust manifold they will be welded in place from the heat. You will then be shit out of luck. Did you even get the old studs out yet? It befuddles me how someone in Europe can be doing mechanical rehab work on a 60's Buick and not have a American tap and die set to remedy basic repair needs, including making simple fasteners etc What really leaves me scratching my head is your asking to have the studs and bolts tossed in an envelope and sent to you in France by me, yet you won't buy them from Tom T because shipping is cost prohibitive? God helps those who help themselves my friend

Other than sopping up spills, leaks and accidental messes I use white T shirts. My trick is I cut them into small squares,. It seems for most tasks a little one lastsa long as the whole t shirt. I use the wife's rotary cutting shears and I have a full gallon zip lock bag in about 10 minutes

It's off a Buick 401. I will message you so if you have questions they can be answered off line

20 plus shipping

Come on Frank, You're German.. Make your own 😆 In all seriousness, take a brass 11mm nut, drill it and tap it.

So, as a relatively new hobbyist, what I'm hearing is that due to today's gas I can't have a properly running vehicle unless I convert to efi? Wow, count me out.

I have these. Homemade. The rope in the hole is just as easy.

I believe the headliner is tacked directly to the sheetmetal. (I also always wondered how the factory staple gun is powered). Aren't those screws where the outside windshield stainless trim clips are secured? The book is Buick Body Service Manual. As opposed to Chassis Manual.

*Tom T says he sells them. He just said so. Try dealing with that guy *I'm a guy like you. I have my own crap to fix. *It's too hard today to replace Made in USA stuff with more Made in USA Stuff. *Amazon sells them. You just ordered some. *No good deed goes unpunished.

Two short and two long (for the exhaust valve)

All I know is mine needs a 150K restoration. Simple math dictates it's worth at least $100,000 as it sits. 😂😂😂

Wow! That's a killer deal by John for a correct unit gone thru by Carmen

Frank, why not get a 63 2 barrel intake manifold and 2GC carburetor. That's what many did in the early 70's.

The mechanic has the piston bores marked incorrectly. 1357 are the passenger bank. Hopefully that's the only discrepancy

Latest Buick Bugle I scratched out all but the email address. The seller might not want his personal info on the internet. Looks worthy of investigation to me

Do the main bearing inserts appear as your earlier picture on the block side also? I wonder about the resistance of the caps when removed, after 20 years the varnish should be like cement, they usually put up a fight. Any tiny play would allow the caps to cock at your index mating surface. As I'm sure you know they should be a light press fit. Just something to consider. Steve in MA

How much effort was required to remove the caps? Steve

If the pistons are brought down to BDC you would be able to push down with hammer handle and hear a "thunk" if there's excessive clearance. A quick test that will disclose any glaring defect within the rod bearings Meant to say : Recently found out the hard way there are no .020 bearings for a 401 425. This may affect you also.

Those are beautiful. Like jewelry. I believe flash-chromed steel. A few Ten Thousands of an inch of plating. Polishing will remove valuable material. There's nothing you could do to make them much nicer. Chrome is very soft. Just wiping with a dry rag will put those fine scratches on them

I'm going to try this goop on this oil pan bolts since every other goop seems to seep. I'll let you know in a couple years

Merry Merry🎄 Christmas Steve in MA

Perfect replacement for original Made in USA too.