gungeey

Sounds like you have an A/C car. The shroud, the starter, water pump are all readily available aftermarket. A usable original fan may prove tough to find. You need a fan clutch also. The bolts other than the 4 rocker shaft bolts are hardware store. Those will be used. If you are a member of BCA or ROA you will gain easy access to vendors that sell the used items.

Jerry, SS carries a bit of a"tingy" sound that you may or may not notice or be bothered by. Stainless is nice for good reasons like looks, longevity

Stanley, Ok, I will keep on posting. I didn't say titling was impossible but I do say it's incomprehensible that you wouldn't get an answer to your question PRIOR to your purchasing and shipping a car from Europe.

Congratulations with your acquisition, If it were me, I would get that question answered by personnel at the PA DMV and by them only. As an aside, it's amazing how some people can go through life seemingly unscathed whilst having not a care in the world. Others, myself included, make valiant efforts to avoid problems yet still get burned.

you probably want to revise your title to 15x6 as opposed to 5x16

Shouldn't "couch potato internet wizard" be on there somewhere? Seems befitting for some reason.

I would load the cable up with some pb blaster let it soak overnight. Next day undo the most accessible cable end and try to work it through its range of motion with a pair of pliers. Might take two or three passes. I believe a guy on v8buick.com is parting out a car, might have what your looking for if you'd can't be salvaged

I consider myself quite fortunate in this regard. 1st Generation Rivieras have been my hobby cars, never felt the urge to deviate and continue to find the next one that "rings my bell". Have the few specialty tools one might require and the spare parts (most of the time). Prices for the parts I don't have but need are getting rather prohibitive. It was a lot more fun and carefree when it was cheaper. Still, They really are the ultimate hobby car for me.

For your dash, the color you are looking for would be Dull Aluminum, but not a metallic. Yes brass fitting is oil sender locationthe fitting is for aftermarket gauge 63 64 65 all have different heater hose configurations. First two years (don't know which yours is) are a cluster$$gůčk from the beginning. What you have now is a bastardized version, someone with experience in aftermarket A/C should be able to help plan out your system

The adjusters are right and left handed threads. The motion with the tool to relieve some tension is from bottom of backing plate towards top. The actuator stops the starwheel from getting backed off unless it's pushed out of the way with a second tool. Refer to old Germans pictures from the manual. I wouldn't spray any type of penetrating oils that would contaminate the shoes unless you plan on replacing them. Worst case scenario is grind off the heads as EmTee says, but that shouldn't be necessary on a running driving car

there should also be a brace from motor mount to underside front of pump bracket. It's about 3/4"× 15

I stand corrected and fixed it

In answer to your question: I take back roads As far as the editorial, why not post some pictures.. you can get your car judged online here free of charge as you sit on the couch 🤣

Congratulations, looking forward to pictures 👍

Bob, good to hear from you, but why you being a such a brown-noser? 😂 You must want those "free" a/c parts that all you have to do is pay for shipping and a small handling fee

Guy I know heard a rumor that there was a price drop since. The farmers daughter is sick of looking at them.

It's not going to come out like "old faithful", more like a "babbling brook" Are your lifters installed?

Dave, I know of no such manual. There's a recall on the headlight visors is about 40 pages. Sinceyou have 2 relays. The update has been performed. If you're visors remain open or closed connect a jumper wire from +batt to to the wire from the relay to headlight motorby separating the connection at the splash apron(valence) behind the grill on the drivers side. Touchhot leaf to each inner prong. Action now at the motor shows likely relay trouble. No action indicates motor trouble.

Not familiar with your exact engine, how about pumping oil with an oil can down the hole that feeds oil to the rocker shaft from the top. It should drain down. If it dont then the cam bearing is installed incorrectly and blocking it.. just a thought. Also, It can take a while to fill oil galleys. But you don't want to keep testing by spinning the oil pump as you will wash away your assembly lube on the crank journals. I would call the rebuilder to alleviate the concern

Although the car in question is surely not 19k, the thought of a 50 year old car still wearing original tires as a testament to its low miles is just as far fetched. With all that said, tires prior to radial were typically rotated not in sets of 4 but included the spare in a tire rotation so all 5 wore as a set. Based on that even if I see a new "never hit the ground" spare in the trunk of a given car my thought is that it, too, has been replaced.

How much more foolproof could the Buick factory make it in 1964?

That's a real shame. You know chrome is bad when glaring defects show up in a picture. Sounds like no recourse, either

I would definately without a doubt do fenders then doors.

2 separate, Bill. The weatherstrip run gets screwed in much like the A-Pillar, the drip rail clips on by pressure onto J shaped steel at the end of the roof sheet metal

I will add that since doors are off it's a perfect opportunity to address worn bushings in the hinges (especially the drivers side). Taking out the slop will make alignment easier and permanent.