gungeey

I stand corrected and fixed it

In answer to your question: I take back roads As far as the editorial, why not post some pictures.. you can get your car judged online here free of charge as you sit on the couch 🤣

Congratulations, looking forward to pictures 👍

Bob, good to hear from you, but why you being a such a brown-noser? 😂 You must want those "free" a/c parts that all you have to do is pay for shipping and a small handling fee

Guy I know heard a rumor that there was a price drop since. The farmers daughter is sick of looking at them.

It's not going to come out like "old faithful", more like a "babbling brook" Are your lifters installed?

Dave, I know of no such manual. There's a recall on the headlight visors is about 40 pages. Sinceyou have 2 relays. The update has been performed. If you're visors remain open or closed connect a jumper wire from +batt to to the wire from the relay to headlight motorby separating the connection at the splash apron(valence) behind the grill on the drivers side. Touchhot leaf to each inner prong. Action now at the motor shows likely relay trouble. No action indicates motor trouble.

Not familiar with your exact engine, how about pumping oil with an oil can down the hole that feeds oil to the rocker shaft from the top. It should drain down. If it dont then the cam bearing is installed incorrectly and blocking it.. just a thought. Also, It can take a while to fill oil galleys. But you don't want to keep testing by spinning the oil pump as you will wash away your assembly lube on the crank journals. I would call the rebuilder to alleviate the concern

Although the car in question is surely not 19k, the thought of a 50 year old car still wearing original tires as a testament to its low miles is just as far fetched. With all that said, tires prior to radial were typically rotated not in sets of 4 but included the spare in a tire rotation so all 5 wore as a set. Based on that even if I see a new "never hit the ground" spare in the trunk of a given car my thought is that it, too, has been replaced.

How much more foolproof could the Buick factory make it in 1964?

That's a real shame. You know chrome is bad when glaring defects show up in a picture. Sounds like no recourse, either

I would definately without a doubt do fenders then doors.

2 separate, Bill. The weatherstrip run gets screwed in much like the A-Pillar, the drip rail clips on by pressure onto J shaped steel at the end of the roof sheet metal

I will add that since doors are off it's a perfect opportunity to address worn bushings in the hinges (especially the drivers side). Taking out the slop will make alignment easier and permanent.

I find it odd your machine shop measures 2 bearings with a gaping 020 wear yet the other 2 are in or close to spec while you're getting 7lbs of pressure at hot idle. If you get a replacement crank your rotating assembly would need to be balanced. That's a complete teardown. A lot of cleaning, inspection for further damage and wear... and it goes on. It really depends on your long term plans for the car, I think the most cost effective solution is a salvage yard engine

Cliff notes: No insurance in a Mack truck with cobbled together brakes. Stay tuned.

Period magazine ads, factory sales literature helps. Observe the wheel cover in regards to its placement in the wheelwell. It seems in most mid-50's to mid-60's American cars the rocket panels were parallel to level ground.

Resolved. My brother has the same tool, says I can have it since he's no longer in the hobby.

Am I wrong or with a couple options does that tally up to about 800 smackers with round trip shipping and 2 new speakers?

Looks like your window channel run is leaking If it is, I would make that a priority over a sound system Tip: if you're one that likes washing your car frequently (I'm not), use Painters Tape around the whole rear window, sail panel and upper door brightwork while washing. Use compressed air to get water out from behind all that trim immediately. The water just sits in those areas. Water is like acid on old cars.

Your reverb unit should have a chrome bracket and knob, I believe, that installs on the lower dash above the gas pedal ( great spot for patella slices in an accident🥸) If it's complete you can help subsidize your stereo project... As far as what your current electrical charging system will tolerate, well, there's not a lot of headroom. Like you said, there's 5 amps allotted for the factory radio. You can likely upgrade to 7/8 amps no problem. So, a run of the mill modern stereo unit would pass muster. You probably have a 61 A alternator. enough for a radio, headlights, A/C, and a momentary power window adjustment or brake light to all make it simultaneously. That's what the factory allotted for. Getting into amplifiers, a subwoofer etc. will require modifications. A more powerful alt will require a solid state regulator and upgraded charging wire at a minimum. 100Amps and above will have an internal regulator, then some rewiring so your ALT light works properly. No big deal, we can offer guidance if you choose that route. There has to be a run of battery cable to the area of the amplifier and an inline fuse at the beginning of the run in case of an accident. See pics below. The 6g wire is my alternator. The 4g Brown wire runs to the trunk for a 4 channel amplifier. L R and 2 channels are bridged to power a small 8in subwoofer. The inline fuse tucks up under the fender lip with industrial velcro. As you can see the junction block is pretty stuffed at this point You also have to plan where to route the wires depending on your ultimate placement of the components. If done haphazardly you can create a lot of ground noise in the system. Here's a retailer that will have a lot of good tutorials and insight in planning you project: www.crutchfield.com PS I like the idea of the factory unit with upgraded guts, I think you would need an electrical engineer background to build it though 😆

Even 215 75 15s slightly rub

I think you're right, that would work. I think I'd take a lot of enjoyment from the hobby, though, if I had to roll my eyeballs at myself, trying to get a wrench on an obscure nut in order to save 20 or 30 dollars for a proper tool. Enough of my life is held together with paper clips and bandaids already 🤣

I got this belt tightener from jcwhitney 40 out so years ago. (Probably the only good thing from them I ever got 😂 ). I've worn it out on the AC/alt pulleys of 63-65 nailhead engines. The threads in the turnbuckle are going bye bye. Looking for an exact or similar replacement has been for naught. What are others using? Thanks, Steve