critterpainter

The Special (40 series) and the Super (50 series) share the same transmission. The roadmaster (70 series) transmission won't interchange. There is supposed to be a tapered snap ring (bellevue washer) that fits into the bellhousing before the transmission is installed. If it is missing you may have issues with the trans slipping out of gear or clutch chatter. Also make sure the shift linkage bushings are in good shape.

Bobs Automobilia has a new ring gear in stock. 805-434-2963

A quick way to accomplish the same thing is to slide a freeze plug into the short hose between the water pump and the t-stat body. Don't forget the small hole for the by-pass.

The issue is that the Die-Cast contains lead which corrodes and swells over time. I have seen these switches swell until they lock the levers so tight that they won't move and break the steel ring that retains some of them into position. Bobs can rebuild them as long as you have the internal springs and contacts and a "useable" back contact plate like Larry's above or better.

Cars that are used infrequently do suffer from what appears to be early part failure. Water pump seals will tend to stick to the mating part or just rust if allowed to sit over time and if the coolant is just tap water it can aggravate the problem. Fuel pump diaphragms harden and weaken and brake cylinders can rust prematurely. Drive your car and it will be happy, let it sit and it will demand attention. When I look at an older car that has been sitting and the owner say that he replaced the fuel pump or water pump just before parking the car 1-10 years ago I can expect the parts to either not work or fail in days.

Have you tried classic & standard reproductions in Australia? I hope I have the name right. Bill

I cut open one of the "quality" condensers (Echlin from Napa) and it was a quality issue. I could see on both ends where it had been arcing to the case. I put a Pertronix unit in the car and it is happy again. Bill

Try Bobs Automobilia They specialize in Buicks 805-434-2963

You need to contact Bobs Automobilia in Calif as they specialize in Buicks and could supply a replacement tank and brake parts 805-434-2963

Thanks for the tips and hints. The vote here is to just go with a pertronix and correct any feed voltage issues! Bill

Beltfed: The wire has the correct color code and the right "feel" to it. (I grew up with 1960's Fords) Also a resister (to my knowledge) does not lower the voltage unless there is a current flow through the resistor. I am about to cut the condenser open and look for arcing on it. Thank you for your ideas I will figure this out someday.....

The coil supply voltage was tested with engine running and showed about 6v. key on engine off it goes to 12v . No "ballast resistor" as Ford uses resistor wire to supply the coil and a second lead from starter solenoid to supply 12v during cranking. This car has eaten 3-4 condensers this summer but I understand quality is a big issue.

Pertronix is a thought, but I first need to figure out what is killing the condenser, condensers are way cheaper than ign modules.

I will check for a ground issue. The points are not burnt, but the condenser life is frustrating.

Like the title says, the car has had three ignition condensers fail this summer. The car starts running rough and then konks out. Slap a new condenser in the distributor and it fires right up and is good for a few more weeks. Running voltage to the coil is 6 volts, 12 volts with key on and the engine off and 12 when cranking. What is causing this? or do I have the magical ability to only get poor quality condensers? I am buying the parts at NAPA, not at Ed's cut-rate poor quality used parts store. Bill

I won't call this a dumb law, but it can be confusing. In Calif a historical vehicle does NOT need a brake light if it did not come with one. However EVERY vehicle operated on the road Must have an outside rear view mirror. The rear view mirror law was put into effect in 1963. My 14T does not have a brake light but it does sport a period correct outside rear view mirror.

If it is just a Dynaflow, get an external reseal kit from a supplier along with the dynaflow repair manual and take it to your local shop. Should cost thousands less than shipping that heavy beast to the states and back!

As others have said, remove any other lock. The trunk lock could be another option. The ignition switch cannot be removed without a key!

That rounded design was used through 1939.

The "knuckle" that the antenna mast fits into is different on the convertibles and hardtops, it holds the antenna mast at a different angle to accommodate the angle of the windshield. Bill

Well other than the fact that the transmission, clutch, bell housing and motor mounts are different the only issue is the fact that the engine is about 3" longer. Not an easy task.

It might be easier to just get a wide pulley for the alternator. Some model A Ford suppliers carry that pulley that is a direct replacement for the delco alternator. I have one of those pulleys sitting on my desk at work!

I know the late Dynaflows had a failure where the reverse band anchor would fail at the case. In the day a retro-fit anchor was available from at lest one source.

The roadmasters usually had a bearing between the armature and the bendix that the small series did not.

Nowhere to put the bushing...